RaV6

[Fizzy]

Thanks - I think the bolts may be "seized" by design. My new one has them in already :-



They don't seem to wrap/protect spares much anymore. It arrived loose (not boxed) and there are quite a few places where the black covering has been scrapped off. It was the same with the filler neck/pipe I bought at the same time..

Thanks for your offer - since I'll need to get the old one off to send to you I may as well fit this one while I have everything off anyway. Just wanted to make sure it would be ok if I did intend to go down the V6 route before fitting it. :icon_mrgreen:

....and just spotted that you don't think they would be up to the job. Hmm, I guess I better decide whether I want to V6 it before using this one then. :)

Wonder what the 3s turbo guys have done then?

[Paul Woods]

Oh, that pic speaks volumes, that would explain why my bolts wouldn't budge, they have made the whole assembly as one part, that's crazy.... that means there is no way to fit that without dropping the petrol tank out, there is not enough physical space between the diff subframe and the tank to get the bolts slid into the subframe or the old ones out for that matter!

I levered that bracket off its rubbers (they really were shagged so it popped off easy) and then undid the bolts, just enough to get the grinder onto them at the midpoint, and cut through them, that was the only way or it was a tank out job.

My new bracket has my engine mount bushing collars welded on and reinforced and i've used loose bolts that were fitted from the diff side of the subframe on refitting, so the tank never had to come out.

[Fizzy]

Also realised that's all I got - they didn't even include new nuts with it... They are probably extra at about £5 each knowing Mr T.....

Out of interest would the use of some liquid poly, silicon or whatever it is that people often apply to mounts to stiffen them up be of any use here?

......and it may actually be a good thing that you need to drop the tank since it looks like another potential problem area is the pipework around the panels on top of the tank. They were just thinking ahead. :icon_twisted: :rofl:

[Paul Woods]

The nut part number is 90179-12131 if you need it, i just used the old ones though.

[Fizzy]

The nut part number is 90179-12131 if you need it, i just used the old ones though.

Thanks. I'm sure the old ones will be fine (or I'll probably have some spare anyway) it was more of a complaint on the fact that considering how much it cost they don't include them as standard anyway. Stingy gits. Lol.

[Fizzy]

Reasonable one on ebay going cheap? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-TOYOT...item415bcb3095 - lol

[snowtigger]

I've found a breakers near us that is quite reasonable, hes a nice guy that owns it had a good chat about mk1 rav4 he gets quite a few in mostly auto but a few manuals, have asked him to look out for a black or silver wide arch that the engines jiggered or gearbox in manual configuration, we shall see what turns up after the house move I'm thinking 1mz lite engine good torque, can you keep the aircon?

[Paul Woods]

Yes you can keep the AC but i don't know if the 1mz will fit a Rav4 Tiggs, the issue would be getting the transfer box to clear the block. It's not a case of the 3vz fits so everything else V6 will if you see what i mean.

[snowtigger]

Ah I see mate just an idea, I will see if I can borrow the gearbox of the nice scrap man, and either buy a 1mz or borrow some ones to see if it will clear the transfer box.

Good thing is I could always sell it on if it didn't fit, to an engine swapper or home builder.

[Paul Woods]

Check this out....



PHWOOARRR! Pulls your arms off and beats you with them lol, the most fun you can have in a 4x4 fullstop! :)