The rails do look long, but it's surprising how long the standard boot section is actually. I bet it'll be fine when it's all done.
Loving both the current 2.8 projects on here, especially the factory-style metalwork!
Can't wait to see them finished.
More progress soon? I'm excited to see what's next...
I finished the gearbox drillings earlier this week and check fitted it to the engine.
Everything lines up nicely so today it has been silicone sealed together along with 6 countersunk screws on the engine side to secure it together.. 5 out of 6 studs penetrate BOTH pieces of 12mm alloy plate so i have opted NOT to weld in any way. I'd sooner rely on an M12 stud to secure it together than stand a chance of welding distortion.. :th:
Finito :cool1:
Just waiting on the studs to turn up tomorrow and then chassis fabrication can continue :D
Tre cool sir tre cool indeed!!!!!
Looking good Dan excellent work here
Gorgeous adapter!
The adapter plate is awesome, if the whole project's finished to this standard then it will be quite something.
Re the body mods mentioned on the other thread, have you thought of either a) some sort of moveable splitter at the front to be able to run it real low but still get over speed humps or b) some sort of raiseable (not risible) suspension (hydraulics/airbags) to achieve the same aim?
Agree that the shell probably does need to be dropped anyway to get the arches looking 'right'...how exactly do you plan on doing that, it's pretty major...?
That adaptor is a work of art mate
Superb Dan
“Where I'm going is not nearly as important as what I'm driving to get there.” ― Jay Leno
@ John and Paul - thanks chaps..
@ Geoff.. It's really not an easy proposition at all to be honest. As I am rebuilding the rear suspension points in their entirety it has proven easier to do on the back but still not without challenge.
Firstly, to combat bump steer, tram lining and so on I have raised the subframe 25mm from the original mounting height. This has the effect of lowering the chassis 25mm. Anybody who has run a really low SW20 will know that there is only so low you can go on the back end with coil-overs before the strut touches the driveshaft, doing this will counter that to some extent also... So the same effect as using RCA's - which i will probably be using as well!
Next - the front end; this is where it gets a whole lot trickier! because the front will remain predominantly intact I am faced with raising the mounting points 25mm here within the original chassis - not such an easy thing to do.... Essentially there are (3) mounting points- 1 where the top mount bolts on, 1 where the trailing arm attaches and 1 where the main arm (that bolts to the ball joint) attaches. The trailing arm bracket bolts to the car so easy enough to whip off, chop down, reinforce and refit (that said i will probably remove, measure, laser cut and remake). The other two points are hard, fast weldments to the chassis and not all that easy to change. Those of you who've read AEK's V8 project will know he did much the same thing on his car so, it's not that it's impossible just a challenge...
But then, when you're throwing a V8 longitudinally into a chassis meant for a transverse 4-cylinder, raising the suspension points 25mm pales into insignificance really! :D
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