1MZ auto box solenoids

[tripod23]

what resistors did you use olberj - also do you know if there was any timing shift without them fitted.

as paul says early 1mz do not shift timing - mine came from a 97 camry.

i think i will give this a try just to see for myself if there is any difference with my 1mz.

any details of parts used would be great.

[OlberJ]

Aye, been trying to get some info to see why it does actually behave different and see exactly what is going on. Will get a shot of Lee's scanner and see what that says.

I'll dig out the info i got from Chris. Ordered the parts from Farnell.

[OlberJ]

You want 2 of these 50W : http://uk.farnell.com/tyco-electroni...r-5/dp/1259476

And one of these 75W : http://uk.farnell.com/tyco-electroni...m+75w+resistor

I'll check the wires on the gearbox plug you want to be connecting them too.

Simply earth them all at one end and then wire up the other ends to the gearbox plug.

It's possible it's only certain years it effects but worth a try, let us know how you get on.

[OlberJ]

Found the box plug info too.



You use the three wires in the top left of this picture. Blue, purple, and pink. Blue and pink are 50W, the purple wire is the 75W.

Again, possible the wires could be different colours dependant on year etc.

[tripod23]

awesome stuff im going to give it try just to see what happens i will let you know.

cheers - simon

[aigochamaloh]

Ollie, what kind of testing did you do? Any dyno sheets? I'm just curious about the whp difference. Just like you, I immediately know the difference between when the resistors are plugged in or not. A day and night difference.

[GregLeBon]

Ollie..you've got me curious now...!
How did you arrive at the 10R value: did you measure an actual solenoid?

Why do you need a 75W ally clad for the 3rd one: current through a 10R load will not even exceed 2A, so 25-30W ally clad will be more than enough, especially if theyre bolted to some ally heatsink....?

For the benefit of others reading this, that dont have diagrams, etc, the wires MAY be Pink/Blue, Violet, and Blue/Black.
Pink/Blue is the "SL" feed (pin 27, Connector "D" on the ECU)
Violet is the "S1", (Pin 11, "D")
Blue/Black is "S2" (Pin 17, "D")

For info, there is also a 4th solenoid, but this one is not grounded directly at one end: instead, it connects between pin 2 of "C" and pin 3 of "D" via Black/Yellow and White/Blue wires.
These are labelled as "SLN-" and "SLN+" respectively.......

I'm not sure how relevent any of this is, but I felt it may come in handy for someone, somewhere (in summertime?)

The info is from a Lexus ES300 diagram, which has the same 3-coil, wasted-spark 1MZ setup as the early Camry.

[OlberJ]

Chris, no dyno run yet, it's on the to do list soon though.

Cheers for the pin outs Greg. Reason for the 75W is that Chris had reported his 50W was getting extremely hot, adding the 75W was purely as a preventative.

No idea why this seems to effect some ECU's and not others but will be good to get some hard data.

[aigochamaloh]

The SLN- SLN+ solenoid will still trigger a code. It does not trigger the MIL or O/D light though, so no timing pull and no limp mode.

If you have a bigger aluminum heatsink you can mount the resistors, that will do well. Even with the 50-75W resistors, they get blistering hot.