ThingyNess' 1MZ-FE AW11 Build.

[ThingyNess]

The OEM 1MZ-FE flywheel bolts will be fine with the fidanza even without the spacer. They're designed to not bottom out in the crankshaft even with the thinner stock 1MZ-FE flywheel. I like using the A/T flex plate spacers because I've owned and had many friends who've owned DSMs, and it's standard operating procedure in those cars to use the flex plate spacers because without them apparently it's easy to have the bolts back off if you don't torque / loctite 'em right. Quite a few DSM guys have had the flywheel come loose and buzzsaw through the bellhousing. :)

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...ode=DSM-Engine

Some companies sell nice kits to fix the problem, which include longer bolts and an A/T flex plate spacer.

[ThingyNess]

I like to have as few little rubber lines, tees, etc, under my hood, so after some thinking, I just decided to drill/tap the top of a couple of banjo bolts for a 1/8" NPT fitting. I can now use the bolts on either rail to give me two extra inlets/outlets using the stock 1MZ-FE returnless rails.

One will be used for a sender for an electric fuel pressure gauge, and the other will be used to feed the fuel pressure regulator, either with a 1/8" NPT to 4an, 1/8" NPT to barb, or a custom 1/8" NPT to M12 x 1.25 adapter so I can just screw the stock 3VZ-FE regulator (which I already have) into the end of the banjo bolt so it all looks nice and almost factory-ish.

[ThingyNess]

Finally got the flywheel / clutch attached to the engine happily, and put new output shaft/axle seals in the E153.

Quick question though, since I never actually have had in my possession either a manual transmission camry or turbo MR2 -- is there a plate that's supposed to sandwich between the engine / trans when you bolt them together? If so, do I need to use the 3sgte or 1mz-fe one? Does it matter? Do I even need it?

[aigochamaloh]

No plate between the two, just bolt them up. That's as far as I know, I just bolted them up.

[ThingyNess]

Thanks :)

Most other japanese fwd engines I've played with have a thin aluminum/steel plate sandwiched between the gearbox / engine. I'm glad I"m not missing it then. Tomorrow the whole works gets buttoned up and shoved under the MR2 then. :)

[ThingyNess]

Couple fun things to note:

I have found mention of a steel shim plate between the engine / transmission. I can't seem to find it in any of the parts literature, but the original Sport Compact Car article detailing the MR2 V6 buildup specifically mentions a steel shim between the E153 and the engine. They also mentioned they needed to make / use a thicker than stock one to space the trans / starter out to mesh with the ring gear properly because they weren't using a standard thickness flywheel. Does anyone else have any input on this? Paul? :)

Also, my starter is from a USDM '98 camry and does NOT clear the shift linkage on my MR2 E153 transmission. It's a relatively easy fix but the electrical connectors for it foul both the rear bolt that holds the shift linkage to the transmission, and the front pivot joint. It's a relatively easy fix, I'm just going to hack off the rear bit of the bracket and weld a small steel plate to link it up to another unused, out of the way bolt hole. Still annoying though. I wish I had a good starter. :P



It's hard to see in the picture, but with the rear bolt in place, you cannot rotate the starter such that the bolt holes line up in the bellhousing. With the bolt completely removed and the bracket still there, you can bolt the starter up, but the rubber boot covering the +12 terminal is actually touching and being pushed against the steel bracket. Not good enough for a long term solution for obvious reasons, not the least of which is the fact that it's completely unfused. The front terminal can be remedied by hacking up a bit of the plastic push-lock connector and using a standard .250" amp fast-on female spade terminal to connect up the solenoid.

[Paul Woods]

If you use a v6 flywheel or a machined 3sgte flywheel there is no need for the shim, just bolt the flywheel on.

You should use the mr2 starter motor, that clears without issue, the 1mz starter does indeed foul on the bolts, 3vz starters work fine.

[ThingyNess]

Paul,

I'm not talking about a shim between the flywheel and engine -- rather a shim between the engine and gearbox.



Like that happy little one sitting on that 3S-GE.

So I don't need one of those?


I'd have used the MR2 starter motor if I had one, but my swap is going into an MK1 and I never actually had a turbo MR2 to steal the starter from.

Also from talking with aigochamaloh, we've decided that the earlier (95-96) 1mz starters actually clear the trans / linkage perfectly, it's only the later ones that cause problems.

[Paul Woods]

Oh sorry, got my wires crossed there, yes you will need that shim, it is on all v6 engines anyway.If you leave it off everything will still work, but the clutch pressure plate might or might not catch on the inner bellhousing, but it "should" be ok.

You will need to adjust your clutch pedal bite point though, this will affect that.

[aigochamaloh]

Hmm, I do not have that shim. My v6 didn't have it. Uh oh