Well thanks for the advice. I'm going to go outside tomorrow and poke about with my v6 shaft and see if it fits happily into my E153.
I've PMed you shipping / paypal info. :)
Well thanks for the advice. I'm going to go outside tomorrow and poke about with my v6 shaft and see if it fits happily into my E153.
I've PMed you shipping / paypal info. :)
This is a non-lsd tranny, yes?
No bar across? Probably not, although on the flip side, some with the bar are not LSD either.
Yeah, looks like the ones with the smaller hole are the TRD LSD. That's good in my case though, that means my axles will work.
Woohoo, got some more work done, added some more pictures.
- Managed to get myself the proper flywheel bolts.
- Took off the intake manifold and got myself a 3vz-fe fuel rail / return regulator setup
- Stripped all the useless crap off the engine that I don't fancy I'll need. Giant vacuum line rats nest with vacuum switching valves, EGR valve from the intake manifold, etc. Also ditched the power steering pump and a/c compressor, and all the associated bracketry. Makes me happy to have shed all the weight.
- Took the EGR gaskets to my handy-dandy local (surly) machinist and got some EGR blockoff plates made up. That'll help stop the intake from getting all full of hardened carbon again like it is now. Just for everyone else's FYI, if anyone else wants a set of 1MZ-FE EGR blockoff plates, just PM me and I can get you some sent out, and for a reasonable price, too. :)
This is where we work on the happy little engine.
All carboned up from EGR and PCV goo. Bleh. That will be fixed soon.
Fancy CNC-machined EGR blockoff plates:
Installed CNC-machined EGR blockoff plates:
This is me, looking odd, dirty, and sleep-deprived:
These don't need blanking, they only connect to each other.
Also...
This will NOT work, the 3vz fuel rail will not fit onto a 1mz properly, the injector spacing is at least 10mm different.Took off the intake manifold and got myself a 3vz-fe fuel rail / return regulator setup
Last edited by Paul Woods; 24-10-2009 at 09:06.
Thanks Paul, I realized that last night upon further inspection of the two rails with my dial calipers and then some forum reading. I'm going to drill, tap, and mill flat the ends of my 1MZ returnless fuel rails and then use the 3VZ crush washers, banjo bolts, regulator, and crossover banjo pipe.
Also, I know that those two EGR passages don't need to be blocked off as they only meander through the block to cool the EGR with the engine coolant, but I had spare plates anyway, and I figured the less things able to nest in my engine the better. I've already had to evict squirrels, mice, and barn swallows from one of my other project cars, so the less open passageways in my engine, the happier I am. :)
Also, I took some pictures for reference of the flywheel bolt investigating I've been doing. The 2.2l 2004 GM Ecotec 4-cylinder flywheel bolts look to be dead-nuts perfect, although even the Toyota OEM ones with the little automatic trans flex plate spacer clear the springs of my clutch disc by a mile with my fidanza flywheel. Have the people who've been having interference issues been using OEM flywheels maybe?
From left to right:
1) OEM Toyota 1MZ-FE Auto Trans flex plate bolts
2) OEM 2004 2.2L GM/Chevrolet Ecotec 4-cylinder flywheel bolts
3) OEM Toyota 1998 1MZ-FE Manual Trans flywheel bolts (Toyota part number 90105-10138)
As you can see, the Ecotec flywheel bolt is much much MUCH smaller-headed than the Toyota one, and if anyone is having clutch disc clearance issues, will almost certainly solve the problem.
Also, one more shot from the bottom to see the thread engagement length. Clearly the OEM Toyota Flex plate bolt is too small. ;)
The middle (dirty) bolt is the Ecotec bolt, and the left-hand one is the OEM toyota one. You can see that the Ecotec one gives you another full thread of engagement versus the OEM Toyota flywheel bolt, although I think both are perfectly suitable. I'm going to use my Toyota ones just 'cause they're new and because the bolt head interference isn't an issue for me.
In all honesty there is no need to do this, just T a fuel pressure regulator into the fuel feed line and that's it.Thanks Paul, I realized that last night upon further inspection of the two rails with my dial calipers and then some forum reading. I'm going to drill, tap, and mill flat the ends of my 1MZ returnless fuel rails and then use the 3VZ crush washers, banjo bolts, regulator, and crossover banjo pipe.
I suppose that's true. I just like banjo bolts and OEM fittings so much. :) Clamps and rubber hoses annoy me. I'm still on the fence, we'll see what I end up doing.
Thanks again, Paul!
Uh oh, I know I read somewhere on here to use the MKI flywheel bolts, but when I ordered bolts, I just ordered the 1997 1MZ-FE flywheel bolts. Didn't use the flex plate spacer either as I was told not to. Didn't seem to catch on anything as I was able to turn the engine through the crank bolt several times. Is that what you're seeing here Richard?
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