I believe its per run. The problem with changing the settings there and then is that it takes a while for the ecu to settle down/relearn its idle etc. I would like to run it for a bit first to get it working nicely.Originally Posted by stevehall
...and when I pulled up at my house a short while ago the revs dropped to 550-600 rpm... 8O
....but only very briefly and went back up to 900 pretty much straight away. I'm keeping a beady eye on it.... lol
Good news so far,
cant wait for the results :)
Well, been running with for a week or so now. Seems to be fine. I've had a couple of occasions where the revs have dropped a bit (but not as bad as before) but very quickly goes back to 800-900 rpm. My idle valve isn't moded so I kinda expected this to happen. Not had it stall on me while warming up though (keeping a beady eye on that too ;) ).
Went on a run up to aberystwyth last weekend for a meet. When I got back I filled up again and worked out my mileage - 29.5 mpg. :boogie: And thats with some spirited driving around urban roads, as well as some a road and motorways. Hopeing it will stay at those levels. :D
My brother also commented when he took it out for a spin that the engine sounds different too...
....and this weekend found that one of my front brakes were playing up (stuck floater pin?) so that may have been effecting mileage a bit too. Need to get that sorted before next weekends RR session. However I think Paff's going to and he has also done the mod. :clap:
Sounds good mate,
When you have time, are you able to write up a step by step guide on how to do this mod.
I would like to give this a go a mine cuts out most of the time.
It's pretty straight forward:
1. Disconnect Battery
2. Unplug ECU from wiring harness
3. Undo 4 screws on top cover (The one with the sticker on)
4. Heat up soldering iron.
5. Carefully remove resistor R752, it'll be a bit reluctant to come off the board as it's stuck down as well as soldered to the board.
6. Solder the resistor into position R751 (to the right of R752).
7. Replace cover.
8. Plug back into wiring harness.
9. Reconnect battery.
Position of R752 and R751 on the PCB:
Cheers,
Jon
Last edited by jon.sole; 04-08-2017 at 21:24.
Thats pretty much it. :D
In fact I think once I simply disconnected ecu connector D first as that has all the power lines on if I recall correctly. Then removed the rest. Did the reverse when refitted. Ideally you should disconnect the battery at all times, just in case.
I ended up using tweezers and a relatively fine soldering iron. Whatever you do don't drop the resistor on the carpet/floor or you'll be looking for it for ages... <ahem> Lol.
The last couple of weeks, I've been running the Camry with the A/T resistor back in it's original position on the left, but with the other two resistors moved over to the other positions (R754, R752 & R755 fitted). Well the engine hasn't blown up yet :hehe:
I'm pretty sure the engine pulls better and the fuel consumption has improved, but at the same time I changed the ignition timing from 15 deg BTDC to 12 deg BTDC, so it's hard to tell if the resistors made much difference.
Anyway I can't be arsed pulling all the trim apart again to get the ECU out to put the resistors back to the original configuration, so it's staying as it is for now!!
Stickying this thread, great work jon :thumbsup:
Ok, just got back from the rolling road day and can report that my car made :-
199.7 BHP, 183-ish torque at the fly. Not got a printout of wheel bhp but certain he said it was 175 (as I thought it was a little better than the rated rev 3 na stock flywheel figure :whistle:)
Got them to check AFR too, and looks ok but does run towards the rich side at high revs.
So a bit down on my previous run (which was probably too high anyway) but still healthy for a non-ported head engine. ;)
I'll sort out my scanner and hopefully get a pic up shortly.
Ok, scans of printouts should be below...1st pic the three runs, the 2nd the AFR plot.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
