mk3 LSD diffs in a S54 box

[Resolve]

Yay tanks paul! I'm realy looking forward to part 2

I destroyed the old bearings yesterday and gonna fit new bearings on my new LSD. To get the preload back in spec i'le probally have to reshim the bearings.

The stock toyota torque meter adaptor clamps over the bar wich runs trough the middle of the diff, but with an LSD that bar's gone. So i'le probally need a stub axle or some kind of clamp to make an adaptor for the torque meter so i can measure the actual preload.
Oh and i need a quite precice torque meter, lets search ebay :P

The bearing numbers wich came from my diff yesterday where:

90366-40023 LH bearing: Nachi 40KB681 A1
90366-40016 RH bearing: HC Koyo TRA 080702

[Paul Woods]

Sorry folks i just typed out and linked another 45 pics for part two of the article, hit submit and IE crashed on me! I lost the effing lot!, that just took me an hour to do.

I'm too tired tonight to go through that again, i'll try again tomorrow.

[cdwood2010]

Omg.

Do it in a word document, paste it in.

Although doesn't Tb autosave?

C.

[Paul Woods]

I was editing my original post so the article was complete, IE crashed and I lost all my work, deepest joy.

[MMaddict]

Yay tanks paul! I'm realy looking forward to part 2

I destroyed the old bearings yesterday and gonna fit new bearings on my new LSD. To get the preload back in spec i'le probally have to reshim the bearings.

The stock toyota torque meter adaptor clamps over the bar wich runs trough the middle of the diff, but with an LSD that bar's gone. So i'le probally need a stub axle or some kind of clamp to make an adaptor for the torque meter so i can measure the actual preload.
Oh and i need a quite precice torque meter, lets search ebay :P

The bearing numbers wich came from my diff yesterday where:

90366-40023 LH bearing: Nachi 40KB681 A1
90366-40016 RH bearing: HC Koyo TRA 080702

I bought a 1/2" mannesman greenline with 10 years warranty for 60E the otherday. goes up to 210NM. What torque do you need? for 80E you can get one from conrad.nl with a certificate for +/- 3% deviation. conrad.nl: Bestnr.: 824343 - 89


P.S.> Dont they have a good one at your work?

[Resolve]

I bought a 1/2" mannesman greenline with 10 years warranty for 60E the otherday. goes up to 210NM. What torque do you need? for 80E you can get one from conrad.nl with a certificate for +/- 3% deviation. conrad.nl: Bestnr.: 824343 - 89


P.S.> Dont they have a good one at your work?

Wel...... The preload is measured by the force requierd to make the diff spin. And it should start to spin when applying between 0.8 and 1.6 Nm.
So a normal torque wrench is useless for this, i'le realy need a very sensitive indicating torque meter.

I'd like go go a bit nearer to to the 0.8 Nm becouse the box wil get (a lot?) hotter with the V6 then it did with the 3S. So internals will expand more becouse of the heat and bearing clearances will become tighter. At least if i'm argue this one straight.


Paul, shit happens. Realy looking forward to your 2nd try

[MMaddict]

conrad has them starting @ 0.1NM

So you just gotta pick out the good range...

[aussiemr2]

What i did was use the input shaft , it slides straight into the diff, same spline count
Attached a torque wrench that read from 0.1 to other end
You should be setting preload with the gearbox internals removed so this makes it easy to use the input shaft

[Paul Woods]

Ok it won't let me add this to the rest of the article, like my nob it's just too long, so here it is...

Now place the assembly onto the input shaft taking care to align the gear with the driven gear, keep the underside of the gear supported.



Now i made a special press for this job, it bolts to the casing and gently presses down on the 5th assembly to install it without shocking the spring clip out, you can tap the assembly home with a hammer/socket but it needs the gear constantly levered hard and it has a fair chance of going wrong on you, i've seen more of these gearboxes messed up at this stage than any other, if that lower spring clip comes out you won't know about it until you try to engage 5th, which it will, but it won't come back out.



I recommend making a similar press for the job, it takes a bit of effort but having a bespoke tool for the job makes it so much easier...





With the assembly home, fit the nut to the driven gear (reverse thread), the bolt in the selector fork and the top circlip on the input shaft...


Use a chisel or punch to indent the locktab on the nut...



Now look inside the selector housing, check all of the selector forks are in alignment, if they aren't then align them with a screwdriver...



Inside the bellhousing refit the two casing bolts...



Take the selector shaft and make sure it's prongs are all aligned...



Slide it back into the housing, if it won't go, take it back out and check alignment of both forks and prongs.



Screw the endcap back on....



Tighten using the BFOS (it's actually 36mm but i prefer BFOS)



Refit the selector detent...



Fit the rubber gaitor...



Fit the fork...



Clean the top casing surface...



Apply sealant and bolt it down, job done.

Now just before you seal the end casing down it's a good idea to check the box for all gear operation...




And now for your entertainment, removing a diff from a Toyota gearbox in 2 minutes, this is the same for a Mk2 or Mk3 box, there is no need to go through a lengthy dismantling of the box, just take the two bellhousing bolts out (3 on Mk3), remove the reverse idler bolt, undo all of the casing bolts, prize or hammer the casing apart, undo the two reverse idler bolts and this will allow the casing to split enough to take the diff out, only do it this way if you're throwing the rest of the gearbox away...



Enjoy!

[Paul Woods]

My article is split in two chaps, the original has been updated and the second part is above.