Handbrake slack.

[Shorty]

I was to move my two into the dry garage i built and i thought it had atlest the handbrake in place to hold off the slope up there. Not so i found out. ( no it didn`t roll into my neighbors garden)

The handbrake inside the car pulls all the way until no more clicks are availiable. The cable down below is brand new. When i looked underneath the cables going back to the caliper arm is a lot of slack on them. When i lifted the car and tried to roll the wheel while pulling on the caliper arm i could feel there was resistance on then wheel.

So, do i just adjust on the screwing wire underneath where that strange arm thingy is to correct?

I`ve also read about the reset thing on the piston but i hope i don`t have to take it all off again to do that as i can see slack on the cables.

[lodgeman]

if you have replaced the pads or refurbished the calipers you have to screw the piston all the way in and then back 180 degrees (some times you may not get the pads in without grinding off the two knobs:gay: on the back of the pads). then after that it just the case of adjusting the cables where they meet the front section of the cable.

[Shorty]

OK. Thx Lodge. Then tomorrow it`s off with the wheels, calipers and do it all over again. Wish i had the sst to wind it. Its a pain in my ass.

Keri, now where is my rear racing kit???;)

BTW. I put the car down on it`s wheels again today and rolled it around with my new stearingwheel, OMG it looks sooooooo good. Ordered a new Extreem dimentions kit and the datsun flares. Lot of work to be done here. Good thing i am home most nights. NOT!!!!

[lodgeman]

i just used a pair of long nosed pliers shorty! or the tool from the angle grinder:hidesbehi just swivel the caliper up first!

[Shorty]

Will do sir:) Angle grinder disc tool is a great tip. Or just use the angle grinder all together:)

[Shorty]

I followed what Paul wrote about it but i end up with winding it until it wont wind in anymore, turn anticlock wise 180, but it will not go over the pads( have removed the little nobs ). Can i just wind it in just a little at the time in until it just goes over and done. Or do i have to have it back 180?

[Shorty]

I`ll simplyfi the question a bit as my frustration is rising.

When i follow Pauls guide and wind it out 180 degrees it doesn`t go over the pads. I`ve tried to wind it more in and then 180, same. So, can i take it to say 170 degrees and still get the desired result?

[Shorty]

I read a very funny thread all the way through and finally found the answer i was looking for:

But the piston, when turned anti-clockwise - starts coming out straight away
ah ha!! thats just it johnny! it doesnt! even when you wind it all the way back,if you wind it back out 180,caliper wont fit over pads,so you take it back in 180 plus another 20 or 30 degrees...now i know the piston wont go back any further but it now wont start coming back out until you have passed the extra 20 or 30 degrees you gave it.

You might have read this already but i almost pissed my pants when i read it... http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6372&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=adjust+handbrake&start=0

I can`t imagine what Paul was feeling as that thread grew.... hahahahaha

[Shorty]

Turns out the right cable doesn`t move at all inside the tube back to the lever arm. fuck!

[lodgeman]

common mk1 fault mate -seized cables:driving:

[Shorty]

I will see if i can order them off mrt tomorrow. Another delay. Yey:(