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View Full Version : coilovers! if they work!!!



lodgeman
02-08-2007, 20:36
these arrived in the post today!
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/8.jpg

right now not sure if they will work or not;) but if they do and they work well could be a easier option on this type of suspension. not sure if its been done before but i need some questions answered as i go along;) right first off price ! £ 59.95 +£20 p+p . they are from a mx5 - i have heard these are closest to the mk1. now the alloy sleeve touches on the points of the large shocker nut, should i just take the points off with a grinder?lol
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/9.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/10.jpg
seems to fit over the shocker tube ok and comes with top hats.
[http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/11.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/12.jpg

there is no fitting instructions with the kit- so a stooopid question is where do you put the different rubber rings that come with it? some are flat and some are round? some pics here in the ebay ad.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180142875078&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008
if this works well it could be a cheaper way of lowering the car than expensive springs. on the other hand could be complete crap and i end up buying some anyway :rofl: any help would be appreciated:thumbsup:

Marksman
02-08-2007, 20:44
* Aluminum sleeves and dual locking perches, coil springs, centering top hats, spanner wrenches, bag of plastic rings

So now you know, they're plastic rings. Sounds like they don't know what the hell they are for either rotflmao


* A step by step installation instruction will be included
Might be worth a :poke2: to get your copy of these...






...or check that in your haste to look at sniny new parts you didn't notice them in the bottom of the box :hidesbehi

Nice looking widgets though :thumbsup:

Owen.

lodgeman
02-08-2007, 20:48
i looked in the box!!!!!!!!:hand: i am a chef you know!!! will email them and see if they have some they can send me;)

Shorty
02-08-2007, 21:12
The rings go over the head where the strut goes in then the coilover is slided onto it to "lock" it off. It`s instead of welding it to the thing. hehe, not sure i understood that myself thoug.

They look like my groundcontrol ones too. Just mine is gold:) I might have put the rear on the front etc cause the coilovers i`m putting on the front, the rings are too small..

OlberJ
02-08-2007, 22:12
Ooooooh, perfect timing Lodge.

They look the part. Any ideas what the standard length is for an mx5/mk1 and how much adjustment you can get on them?

/goes to actually look at the ebay link...

OlberJ
02-08-2007, 22:41
1-4" that should be plenty. Mx5 sits about as high as the mk1 in standard trim.

Sounds good Lodge :thumbsup:

JB
02-08-2007, 23:20
Very interestin Al do let us know how this works out. How do the spring stiffnesses compare with the originals?

Paul Woods
03-08-2007, 08:03
very interested in this one myself al,im guessing you will be fitting the mx5 front ones to the rear and vice versa?

yeah id just grind the corners off the lock nut :thumbsup:

also is the plan to completely remove the spring pan from the originally tube? then weld on a smaller perch of some sort so it looks like a proper coilover? or just leave the spring pan there? just a cosmetic thing i suppose!

lodgeman
03-08-2007, 08:22
my thinking was - if it works ok , trim the lower spring pan and perhaps make up a piece that either fits over the top of it or just form a lip around the outside somehow? i havent thought that far ahead so far :doh: just wanted to see if they fitted first and got them looking right after!;)

Paul Woods
03-08-2007, 08:25
not a bad plan,id reinforce the pan if you are cutting it down,couple of triangles placed under the perch welded to the tube would do :thumbsup:

Jiff Lemon
03-08-2007, 10:26
very interesting - was looking at the stuff available from Rally design (http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1358&products_id=3450). very similar but doesn't come with springs; Any idea what pundage springs you've got Al?

lodgeman
03-08-2007, 10:53
blue?........rotflmao


















dont know mate! nothing stamped on them - but if i stand on them there is minimal movement!;)

Paul Woods
03-08-2007, 18:58
those mx5 springs are pretty stiff,ive fitted them to the mx5 for a north east member.....and yes ive worked on something non mr2,there im out!

OlberJ
03-08-2007, 22:37
I'll let you in on a secret.....i've just bought one for the missus.

Might just get these anyways and see how they are on that 1st. Can't go wrong at that price.

lodgeman
03-08-2007, 22:48
installation guide here

http://racerdesign.com/installation_guide.htm

Gary Symons
03-08-2007, 22:56
installation guide here

http://racerdesign.com/installation_guide.htm


Quote from guide:
WARNING! Please ask for professional installation only. :gay:

Jim-SR
03-08-2007, 23:22
definitely cut the standard spring platform off of the casing. then just weld these new sleeves on. i wouldnt trust any other method of securing them, springs are powerful things, especially when heavily loaded, and theyll break the sleeve loose if secured in any other way. you should be able to use any universal 2.25" spring now too (not sure what size springs they come with, might be 2" or 2.5", but most likely 2.25") which opens up your spring options considerably :)

cartledge_uk
06-08-2007, 08:26
Whats the internal diameter of the Mx-5 springs. As I said on IMOC, I have a set of these from ages ago and i'm not sure if they'll fit the mk1 struts


http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/29.jpg

lodgeman
06-08-2007, 08:40
the springs are 2.5" inside diameter, the alloy tubes are 53mm inside diameter and they are 3.5" and 5" in length.

MartG
06-08-2007, 10:42
.....and yes ive worked on something non mr2,there im out!

Crikey - it'll be diesels next :hand:

lodgeman
14-08-2007, 19:06
well did some more work on these today:jump: feel free to tell me i am an idiot and have done it wrong;) but first off removed the shocks again and trimmed the spring platform with a precision tool:woc: lol
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/94.jpg

then it was a case of cleaning / tidying and painting in the usual gold colour.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/95.jpg

reassembling as per the directions

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/96.jpg

i have trimmed the oem bumpstop and refiitted inside the coil

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/97.jpg

and a before and after shot

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/98.jpg

did a bit of research and the springs are readily available in the 2,5" size and if these dont give the correct ride height the others are available! one question though - i have swapped front for rear due to the differing layouts of the mx5 / mr2 , the alloy tubes are different sizes front to rear should they be changed as well front/rear or stay the same orientation?

lodgeman
14-09-2007, 01:09
right! had to re-do the spring setup as they were upside down :doh: i have fitted the fronts but you will need the keyed washer that normally sits in the top spring mount. that is'nt present any more so a simple soloution was.....
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/96.jpg

this fits under the topmount and sits on the bearing and takes up the big gap that there is without it! the alloy sleeves are slightly to long to fit the tubes so i had to remove 7mm from the bottom of the sleeve.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/97.jpg

and then the grub screws will fit onto the tube. the finished pics

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/98.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/99.jpg

and fitted with the excellent wms large front brake kit!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/100.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/101.jpg

ride height seems to be ok, and there seems to be some movement on the springs so not too stiff, the fitment is swapped front to rear due to the mx5 chassis layout differences.

in the process of doing the rears at the moment, will post pics later.

Paul Woods
14-09-2007, 07:39
wow thats truly excrement mate! groundbreaking work there for sure,hope you dont mind if i copy this in future,definately happening to lily when er.... something happens.... :woods:

love it mate.

lodgeman
14-09-2007, 13:40
copy away mate! thats what this site is all about! its never going to be a top notch answer to great suspension but should be able to give you more options on spring length's/stiffness etc with the addition of different springs that are readily available! something that the standard setup does'nt give you.
heres just a small selection that you can get!

Garbe
14-09-2007, 15:05
Great work Lodge :thumbsup: keep the updates coming and a thorough road test

OlberJ
14-09-2007, 15:08
Am gonna give this a go on the 4age. Only got standard inserts so we'll see how they last on different heights.

Lodge, are you running Koni's or KYB's or summit?

lodgeman
14-09-2007, 17:18
adjustables mate!

adamh
14-09-2007, 22:00
good show al :thumbsup:

Maritime_mr2
16-09-2007, 15:29
So how is the finish product? works to meet your requirements?, quick question... you switched the front and rear to fit the mr2?

Jim-SR
16-09-2007, 16:08
So how is the finish product? works to meet your requirements?, quick question... you switched the front and rear to fit the mr2?

im assuming he meant spring rates, given that an MX5/Miata is a front engine RWD car, whereas the AW11 is mid engined, so the weight distributions will be fairly opposite

so switching the recommended front springs to rear makes sense. personally i reckon the provided springs will be vastly over stiff, but without seeing what the rates are its hard to judge. just basing that on the general tuning-market thinking that stiffer must be better

OlberJ
16-09-2007, 19:08
That size of spring though, there are loads of options, right?

Jim-SR
16-09-2007, 19:33
yup, universal 2.5" springs come in just about any spring rate you want!

personally id go with somewhere around 180-200lbs/in on the front and 225-250lbs/in on the rear. have a look at Faulkners for springs, as linked by Lodgeman

we sell our own brand springs at work, but theyre made for us by Faulkners. not sure what our prices are like comparable to NFS in the link above though. il have a look tomorrow if i remember

im going to use Faulkner-made springs to find what works best, and then one i know il splash out on Eibachs. the Faulkner offerings are under £100 for a set of 4 though (bearing in mind i get a staff discount on our own brand stuff as well) so i can afford to play around with rates, purchase several sets before i find the best ones, and then sell them on at a minor loss. whereas a set of Eibachs are closer to £200, so you dont want to be buying them until you know what you need lol

lodgeman
16-09-2007, 19:40
That size of spring though, there are loads of options, right?
yep loads of spring options.
i cant give any feedback on the coilovers yet as this is an ongoing project. the rears are being done now- i have one side done - but it is being done with a complete refurb and upgrade with brakes /polybushes/ steering components etc. pushing the suspensoin by hand there is some movement so they are not too stiff:gay: i have swapped them front to rear . when the car is on the road i will give a better report!

lodgeman
08-01-2008, 21:55
well i can now give some feedback on the coilovers:thumbsup: with no setup at all and the arb's not connected . just visual setup of toe in/out and no height checks done just set to max height so as the wheels dont foul the arches. first impressions are :thumbsup: very good - not too hard not too soft . you can still keep your fillings in you mouth lol some rebound over the continuous bumps but that could just be adjustment of the shocks which i havent even looked at since fitting- dont even know if they are set the same?:hand:

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/76.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/77.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/78.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/79.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/80.jpg

will try and get a better set up and then give it a better run out but as a first run very impressed!


edit** 1st impressions of the wms brake kit are wow! brilliant set up. good feel to them! have fitted the grooved wms rear discs and fast road pads.

snowtigger
09-01-2008, 01:58
why is it that the drivers front wings always go on these first.

Paul Woods
09-01-2008, 07:51
great stuff al,that gives me a bit of confidence when i come to do mine,i was worried those mx5 springs might be a bit stiff

Gary Symons
09-01-2008, 08:16
Sounds like a bit of a result there :thumbsup:. Always nice to see someone try something a little different.

biteme
09-01-2008, 09:32
tuning these is the name of the game, Al. It's amazing the difference that a good setup and an alignment can give!

Paul Woods
12-01-2008, 18:03
ok following on from al's excellent coilover idea i bought some a few months ago but didnt do anything with them until today.

I took my previously koni equipped/jamex sprung(utter shat) suspension and cut the spring perches completely off.

I stumbled across these little beauties in my local farmers agricultural supply store.... they are tow hitch washers....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/116.jpg

almost perfect ID to fit the shocker casing,so i lined them up,made them sit square and welded them on (obviously with the koni out of the tube)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/117.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/118.jpg

Hows that for a perfect spring perch platform.... cost £1.50 each :)

then i fitted the coilover tube,this comes with rubber rimgs to take up the slack between the coilover tube and shocker casing,and the grub screws hold it in place.As al mentions the grub screws want to sit in fresh air but if you turn them upside down (and also turn the locking perches upside down) it all works grand....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/119.jpg

i needed to fit a spacer between the top hat and the securing nut but other than that they are perfect.

The only thing id like to improve on is fitting spring helpers and a helper adaptor to the bottom of the coilover spring so that on full extension the spring isnt rattling up and down,a minor detail though.

EDIT~ i found this spring helper kit and adpator but its a fortune! $150 a pair...im not paying that...

http://www.jic-magic.com/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=73 does anyone know where we can get the same thing cheaper?

this is what we are looking for if anyone can help...

http://www.jic-magic.com/images/products/P-73-1.gif

OlberJ
12-01-2008, 19:37
Something Adam H could maybe knock up to spec?

Jim-SR
12-01-2008, 19:45
what ID of helper spring do you need? we sell them at work for pennies really. probably somewhere between £20-30/pair with the adaptors, but still, nothing in the grand scheme of things and loads cheaper than £150!!

you probably want them to be as soft a rate as you can get away with, so that they are fully compressed at ride height and there purely for spring location.

Paul Woods
12-01-2008, 19:45
the adaptors yes.... but i dont think mr H can make springs?

Paul Woods
12-01-2008, 19:47
jim that would be awesome mate....ive forgotten what my ID is,i think its 2" but id best check on monday... yep as soft a spring rate as possible 4 or 5lbs ideally,just enough to take up the spring slack on full extension.

OlberJ
12-01-2008, 20:00
:doh: thought it was just the circular metal seats you were after in that pic.

snowtigger
12-01-2008, 20:48
no they just locate the helper spring onto the normal shock for centralisation the dune buggys have emon the dakar also have little u shaped clips welded to the top hats to keep them from coming loose.

snowtigger
12-01-2008, 20:49
how much would it cost all in to convert a set off shocks to these welding and such

cartledge_uk
12-01-2008, 21:20
Great stuff paul!

I'm going to be starting on mine soon, I forgot I had some till you reserected this thread! lol

dodgy9079
12-01-2008, 22:48
Top thread just ordered some myself:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Jim-SR
13-01-2008, 19:48
il check prices on the helper springs and adaptors tomorrow at work. can you do me a favour and measure the depth of the spring platform inner "sleeve", as depicted below...

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/01/129.jpg

reason being that soft helper springs have thin coils, and those thin coils mean that the fully compressed length of the spring isnt very much. and if it is less than the depth of that sleeve then it results in the seperating adaptor between the main spring and helper spring making contact with the spring platform as soon as the helper spring is fully compressed (e.g. almost all the time!). so we either have to spec a helper spring that is slightly heavier in rate so it is thicker, machine down the spring platform or alternatively machine up a simple spacer to ensure contact cant be made, but at the same time keeping it so that the spring is located by the platforms inner sleeve else it will damage the thread on the body

if you can get me that dimension then il know which size springs you want and should have a price by tuesday at latest :)

P.S. Lodgeman, your spring platform might be on the wrong way up, based on what im seeing in some of your pictures. the lock ring (flat ring with no internal sleeve part) goes at the bottom, and the platform ring goes above it with the thin "sleeve" part upward. this locates the spring and stops it hitting against the threads which will damage them, and also the spring over time

Paul Woods
13-01-2008, 19:53
will do jim,i will measure that tomorrow mate....if its going to cause a problem we could put the helper spring and adaptor at the top of the strut no?

Jim-SR
13-01-2008, 20:33
you can put it at the top, but theres no central column to support the adaptor then and it can "wobble" a bit. plus youve still got to locate it concentrically so need some kind of sleeved locator

it shouldnt be too hard to solve the "problem" of having it at the bottom though :)

Paul Woods
13-01-2008, 20:45
ah yes good point jim,i forgot about keeping it concentric.... measurements coming tomorrow.

Oh almost forgot,are these springs available in different uncompressed lengths? with my set up fully lowered theres quite a distance between spring top and strut top on full extension.

Jim-SR
13-01-2008, 22:21
ah yes good point jim,i forgot about keeping it concentric.... measurements coming tomorrow.

Oh almost forgot,are these springs available in different uncompressed lengths? with my set up fully lowered theres quite a distance between spring top and strut top on full extension.

yeh they come in different lengths and rates

Jim-SR
14-01-2008, 19:57
got closed lengths now, so if you let me know that the dimensions are, il need internal diameter as well, im guessing it will probably be 2.5"

pricing will probably be somewhere around £140 after delivery though, its not as cheap as i thought! the helper springs actually cost almost as much as regular springs, which is a bit mad.

get me the measurements though and il check properly as some springs are cheaper than others

Paul Woods
14-01-2008, 20:15
hi jim,the ID is 2.5" as you thought,i need the spring helper to be 80mm long before compression and the height of the flange you asked for is 10mm.... so the compressed helper needs to be 10mm to avoid the adaptor hitting the flange.... can you do anything for me mate?

Jim-SR
14-01-2008, 23:40
il look into it in the morning and see what works out cheapest whilst still meeting the requirements :)

the springs come in 2" or 4" free length, so 4" will work best and be preloaded 20mm, which makes just about no difference anyway. closed length will need to be 10mm plus the depth of the adaptor which will probably mean 20mm+, and there are plenty of spring options well over 30mm, so theres definitely something that can be used

Paul Woods
15-01-2008, 08:06
fantastic jim,4" sounds the boyo to me...whatever you find out would be great

Jim-SR
15-01-2008, 19:41
the lowest rate ones that will work are 75lb, and theyll give you more than enough clearance

springs are £25.00 + VAT a piece, the adaptor rings are £11.80 + VAT, plus postage

so if your company is VAT registered it would cost about £160 delivered, otherwise its £183. which is a touch steep really for what they are, but thats the cheapest i can do it through work. if it were my company id slip you a cheeky discount, but i cant really

thats basically more than a set of Eibach main springs cost though, which i think is absolutely insane for some tiny little helpers that basically do nothing! ive had a quick browse around the net and cant really find anything cheaper though, even buying Eibachs from the states works out at about the same price with a direct dollar exchange, add in shipping and import tax and its more.

sorry mate, i thought they were much cheaper than that. the really soft springs are about £10 each, and adaptors about the same (plus VAT), but they compress to something silly like 7.5mm, and you need a minimum of 20mm closed length to avoid the adaptor battering the spring platform all the time

let me know if you want to order some anyway though and il see if i can worm a discount of some sort

Paul Woods
15-01-2008, 20:13
cheers for all your help jim,the effort is much appreciated... as you say its just too dear for what they are...we need to find a brutal fix lol

if i get desperate as time goes on though i may have no choice but to buy the little buggers,lets see how it pans out :thumbsup:

Jim-SR
15-01-2008, 23:42
il have a think about alternative options as well, if i come up with anything useful il let you know

sketchy
16-01-2008, 00:09
cable ties?....the cheap srping retainer technique...lol

we have issues in our rule book about springs must be under load at all times...

couldnt you make a thicker/deeper locating ring?...or a sleve too go under the ring?

Paul Woods
16-01-2008, 07:54
cable ties was what we used to do years ago on mk2 escorts and the like,when we didnt know any better! lol

problem with adding adapters and stuff is its all adding to the ride height,so you need to lower the coilover further.

I think i'll just chuck a slinky on there and be done with it :)

snowtigger
16-01-2008, 19:22
use the proper tool for the job as a mechanic u should know this paul if they had thought of a better option by now it would be out there to buy but they havent so helper springs it is how much is your life and those that sit in the passenger seat worth to you. bad and improper suspension setups feck up the braking and handling of every car. i hate it when people scrimp on the bits that should be on the top of any car conversion suspension and brakes you have a lovely setup fantastic brakes and beautifull suspension dont spoil the boat for a haypenny of tar dude.:rant2: :hidesbehi
p.s ill get me coat

Jim-SR
16-01-2008, 20:48
not running helper springs isnt dangerous though. its just that the spring will catch on the threads, thus scraping off the powder coating on the spring and also damaging the threads, making future adjustment difficult. a car exerts so much load onto the spring that it will always find its seat again

cable ties works on the most part, but theyll snap from time to time. you could actually just run a plastic sleeve on the thread with a tapered bottom that sticks out a bit to ensure that the spring always re-seats, that would work quite well. it wont help with regards the spring unseating though, it will just make it a smoother transition on the way back

aside from the fact that the suspension doesnt often go far enough into droop for any of this to be a major issue anyway, even on english roads!

snowtigger
16-01-2008, 22:29
well thats me told :eekdoor: :old: :smack: :smack: :smack: :smack: :hidesbehi .

Jim-SR
16-01-2008, 22:48
Paul, how much spring float will there be at full droop in the most extreme scenario, e.g. what is the distance that the spring will unseat by with the damper fully extended?

im thinking a plastic sleeve should work really nicely. if it was machined to the same OD as the spring platform locating sleeve then the spring would always relocate directly onto the platform, and the plastic sleeve would protect the threads, the spring, and wouldnt even scratch anything up. theyd wear out over time (probably tens of thousands of miles) but you could probably get them machined up for £30 for 4. if you can find some pipe that has an ID less than or equal to the OD of the coilover tube, and enough wall thickness that the OD of the pipe is greater than or equal to the OD of the spring platforms location sleeve then you could machine from that. and plastic pipe costs pennies. your only expense would be machining costs. even if you have them machined from solid ABS or Nylon bar youd still only be spending £20 or so on materials though

Paul Woods
09-02-2008, 17:10
right folks an update!

i managed to source the perfect spring helpers.... these are 2.5" ID 4" long (uncompressed) 8mm long (compressed) 4lb springs....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/02/79.jpg

They are from a company called Merlin Motorsport http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ and cost about £15 each plus postage and VAT,total of around £75 i think for all 4,which isnt to bad at all! The 2.5 helpers arent listed on that website but if you ring them they can order them for you.

I just have to make adapters now so that the main spring is located onto the helper and cant scrub on the threads or jump off at full extension.

superchargedsam
09-02-2008, 17:32
Reet result that Paul, they based at coombe still?

Paul Woods
09-02-2008, 17:32
im not sure sam? it was all done over the phone....very helpful guys though

Jim-SR
11-02-2008, 20:46
one possible issue i forsee paul, and one which could be quite dangerous, unless youve already thought about it...

from what i can see in the picture it looks as though the helper spring being the length it is puts the main spring just about in line with the top of the damper body. and it also appears that you arent running a dividing platform in between the 2 springs

my worry is that you hit a bump, the main spring dislodges (as all that is holding it concentric is friction on the helper spring), shifts sideways, and the bottom of it sits against the bump cap on the damper. the damper then tries to compress, but the spring is locking it out solid, and that corner goes solid for a split second before it dislodges, and youre backwards through a hedge!!

not trying to be clever, so if youve already considered it and its fine then no worries, but from looking at it its something which jumped out at me and i just wanted to raise my concern on it.

the only cure i can think of would be to run a 2" longer main spring, with a 2" helper spring. you cant run a dividing platform at all as the helper spring is too thin and so when fully compressed (e.g. most of the time) the dividing platform would be resting on the lower spring platforms which would eventually cause things to break. and even that wouldnt fully prevent the issue listed above

Paul Woods
12-02-2008, 08:10
jim you really need to read posts more carefully bud lol

woods wrote:
I just have to make adapters now so that the main spring is located onto the helper and cant scrub on the threads or jump off at full extension.

Jim-SR
12-02-2008, 20:07
youre right, i do :lol:

i saw pictures, pictures speak a thousand words, so i figured i didnt need to read the rest ;)

OlberJ
12-02-2008, 20:17
i saw pictures, pictures speak a thousand words,

Pffft, no in Woodsy's case lol (see ebay pic thread)

shummy002
13-09-2008, 11:31
Hey Paul,

Any test results yet. I might give it a go if they are not to stiff

Paul Woods
13-09-2008, 15:24
well i havent driven the car yet,its a long way from finished,but the first signs are good,the coilovers were easy to make and they dont appear too stiff when you bounce on the wing,so im expecting a firm ride but not tooth jarring.

Lodgeman got these fully working on his last v6 mk1 though,might be worth asking him what he thought of the finished job.

lodgeman
15-09-2008, 13:34
no i didnt- they are still sat on the car on adamh's driveway!!!

adamh
15-09-2008, 23:55
what car?








































:angel:

OlberJ
15-09-2008, 23:57
I thought you sold that Al?

boondougal
30-06-2011, 16:56
H guys, sorry to bring up an old thread but i was planning on doing this next week and just wanted to ask if its worth it without using the adjustable damper, i have some tokico shocks that i got about 4 years ago, still sat in the Box, along side standard lowering springs so before i go hacking off the spring seat i thought i would see what you think... At £191 each from Fensport i'm not really able to justify the cost, so if its not woth it without the adjustables i'll just keep it as is with the new bits on instead.

nik
30-06-2011, 20:49
i have similar on zombie. using tokico adjustables though. the only issue i have is the front end is a bit too bouncy and the ride is pretty firm, great on good surfaces but a bit embarrassing over bumps.
imo still better than the -25mm avo spring/shock setup i had on kyt plus you get the ability to set the height just right.
once i have found a perfect front spring/shock combo i will be 100% happy with her.

boondougal
07-07-2011, 20:24
Hi guys, well I have had a day off and decided to give this conversion a go, so here is the pic of the mocked up final assembly, seat just tacked on for now as wanted to make sure it lined up ok.

It was one hell of a job getting the 20 year od gland nut off, had to heat it with oxg acet in the end....I had to drill out the blue hat a bit but apart from that and a good bit of grinding then it all seemed to go ok.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/41.jpg

I am completing it a side at a time so I have th front mocked up as well but I have a question about the below....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/42.jpg

The red remnence is some kind of rubber\ foam dust cap for the bearing.... Whats the best option to replace this?

adamh
07-07-2011, 23:44
either pack some new grease in, or just buy bearIngs designated '2RS' they will come with rubber shields.
nice job on the shockers ! i have no problem with them , only a good ride
. for new bearings just measure the I.D, O.d, and thickness. repost here i'll get you the number if needed. should cost no more than £10-12 / pr

boondougal
08-07-2011, 07:39
Thanks Adam, I think the dust shield part number is 90303-22049, seems to be common to the mk2 so I might see if mr T has them in. If not I'll pop up the dims and replace, cheers for the help