OlberJ's Mk1V6 build thread

[OlberJ]

At long last, the time is upon us. Tomorrow will see the engine being removed from the Camry and the prep work started on the Mk1.

To re-cap for those that don't know, this is the Victim :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/221.jpg

I'll be using mk2 n/a running gear with a 3vz-fe engine, st165 twinpot brakes and sum coilover suspension, a set of 16" wheels and eventually a dino-esque body.

As for the flywheel i think either Camry Fidanza or modded 5s-fe Fidanza with appropriate clutch kit/combo.

Power will be standard for now with EGR mod, exhaust and filter, possibly heads done by our man Tone. When the bodywork is done we will be looking at throttle boddies. Want it to really sound the bizniz.

Untill then it'll be used for track days, hillclimbs, sprints, 1/4miles and general fun driving. Want to get myself and my old man accustomed to decent power and RWD.

So, in the words of the great Han Solo,


......."Here goes nothin!" :thumbsup:

[nik]

excellent, another one to follow from conception to birth..
:thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

Thanks to Murf we're almost ready to lift the engine out.

Started later than i wanted to but Sat mornings are too good in yer pit.

Still got to chop the driveshafts, remove rear and side mounts and disconnect the ehaust.

Rear mount's causing me a bit of grief, can't get the central bolt to undo, is this right or should i be undoing the 4 base bolts for the mount?

And as for the exhaust, can't quite see how to take it off, the nuts on the front manifold won't budge and feck knows how to get to the back ones. Can i just cut the exhaust behind the flexi pipe after the y (or should that be T) piece?

Then i just gotta undo the 2 side mounts and hoist the beggar out. :thumbsup:

Oh and also, removing the fuel pipes, where's it best to remove these, at the filter or nearer the engine?


Cheers,
Olie

[Shorty]

Nice.. Will follow closely! I`m starting to wonder if i could have kept i red instead of paint it black. It does look fantastic in red!:boogie:

[Jiff Lemon]

And as for the exhaust, can't quite see how to take it off, the nuts on the front manifold won't budge and feck knows how to get to the back ones. Can i just cut the exhaust behind the flexi pipe after the y (or should that be T) piece?

Then i just gotta undo the 2 side mounts and hoist the beggar out. :thumbsup:

Oh and also, removing the fuel pipes, where's it best to remove these, at the filter or nearer the engine?

Whilst you've a cutting disc on that grinder for the driveshafts, take it to the exhaust after the flexi pipe, then across the front cross member/radiator support panel and also to the battery tray.

Fuel pipes undo at the filter. Don't forget the vacuum canister from under the battery tray. If you get stuck, you still got my number :)

[OlberJ]

11am, the workspace:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/227.jpg
The beastie, untouched:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/228.jpg
Murf arrived and we got the front bumper off:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/229.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/230.jpg
Front crossmember off already:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/231.jpg
And this is where i'm at now:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/03/232.jpg

Should have it out tomorrow morning. Any ideas about the rear torque mount Jiffster?

[Garbe]

Great start, i really enjoyed taking the engine out

[adamh]

wahay its started!.. good progress olber, i like the workspace aswell looks like a dedicated v6 operating theatre to me

[Murf]

Rear mount's causing me a bit of grief, can't get the central bolt to undo, is this right or should i be undoing the 4 base bolts for the mount?


Just undo the 4 base bolts, either that or chop through it with the grinder!!

Good progress for day 1, engine should be out in no time, let me know when its time for the "standing in empty engine bay" shot :)

[Paul Woods]

yep as murf says undo the 4 bolts under the rear crossmember,also drop the exhaust off at the manifold to downpipe connections on the front and rear banks,the engine will lift out and you can chop the downpipes out later.

[OlberJ]

righto, cheers chaps, am off home to get started again.

[Jiff Lemon]

And don't forget the clip that holds the expansion tank on - Very useful when you come to mount it in a MK1!

[OlberJ]

Check! What part of the loom is it i need to chop? It all came out in a oner from the ecu side.

[Marksman]

Just a word on the Camry exhaust. A new one, even from a quick fit type place is £400, hence ours went on ebay, one sold for £100, the other for £125, so if yours is in good condition it might be worth holstering that grinder...

Happy gutting,

Owen.

[OlberJ]

Just the nuts are a bit of a kunt. I'll try get them off 1st. No doubt end in angle grinder rage lol

Cheers for that though Owen :thumbsup:

[Marksman]

Good plan, nuts or even studs are easy to replace so twat the fuckers!

O.S.

[OlberJ]

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v239/OlberJ/Mr2V6/?action=view&current=V6grinding.flv)

Murf in Grinder action!

[OlberJ]

Yesterday's work :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/29.jpg

Got the exhaust off. The front stud rounded and i had to saw it off, the rear's came off easy, then it was a bit of a bugger getting it out from under but it's done.

Was that £100 for the exhaust with or without the downpipes Owen?

Unbolted the rear mount from underneath with 4 bolts, 1 hidden under a black plastic cap, we're they all meant to have caps?

Managed to bugger up the old yin's grinder trying to swap the discs so i'll need to buy a new one, any recommendations? Driveshafts are still connected and 2 side mounts, that's it.

Oh yes, and the fuel pipes, where do i want to remove them? Tried to pull the hoses off near the rails but they're stuck fast. Can i cut the pipes or do i need them for the swap?

What's the gold bit (A)? And should i remove the fuel lines at (B)?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/30.jpg

[Garbe]

The fuel return just unclips and the other fuel line i just diconnected from the fuel filter

[Marksman]

Was that £100 for the exhaust with or without the downpipes Owen?



£100 and £125 without the downpipes as they were passed on as part of the engine kits. :thumbsup:

Love the dissmantalege pics by the way. Geep 'em coming,

Owen.

[podge]

thats just disgusting flashing grinder photos like that whares your sence of decorum:angel::thumbsup:

looking good fellas keep up the good work and on the grinder front i just baught a nice little black and decker twas 15 whole pounds and well youve seen what she can do hehe

[OlberJ]

Where'd you purchase that from Podgester?

[podge]

makro she was 14.99

[OlberJ]

Will pop along on friday and have a look. Any idea what size it is?

I mean the centre spindle, not the actual length lol

[podge]

shes takes four and a half inch disc

[podge]

not sure about the spindle but takes a standard disc

[OlberJ]

Yer joking lol I jus bought a 5" and a 4" metal cutting disc on Sunday.

Didn't see 4 1/2" jobby. Did it come with sum discs or u have to buy them too?

Hold on

/retard mode off

5mm and 4mm centre, not 5" and 4" lol

[Rowdan]

Sure Aldi had some grinders on special recently, still had a few discs at mine last week, no grinders though.

[podge]

what was that word again buy discs na i get them off my neighbour he just donated 10 cutting discs to the cause but unfotunately the grinder comes with one cutting disc but thats for stone

[superchargedsam]

u can get the mofo 9" grinders at netos!

[Murf]

Well, you saw the damage my makita grinder did to the camry, cant go wrong keepin' it Jap :)

BTW, i'm not as fat in real life as i look in that video, it was a bad angle and my works boiler suit makes me look HUUUGEEE!!

[David Sleith]

:thumbsup: Looking good

[Shugsta]

:thumbsup: Looking good

Who Murf? In that fetching wee red number.lol

Comin' along nicely there with the disembowelment :twisted: :woc:

[adamh]

good grinderfood!.. it'l be mounted before you know it :thumbsup:

[David Sleith]

Who Murf? In that fetching wee red number.lol

Nah, too fat

[Murf]

:hand: rotflmao

[OlberJ]

Driveshafts are in pieces. The old yin's been at them with the angle grinder.

Fuel filter off and it'll be out by 2moro morning. Does it disconnect from below the filter?

Major cheers to David Sleith for all his help today. Pics will be up when i get home.

Engine's now out and most of the gubbins are off. Still to remove the electrics and the manifolds. Looks bloody good just hanging there tho :thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

Righto, here it is, oot! :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/81.jpg

and with the box off :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/82.jpg

Now which bit of this is the COR? :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/83.jpg

It looks pretty does that engine. Need to get it completely stripped and mounted on the engine stand.

Gaskets arrived today too :thumbsup:

So what's the craic with the COR?

[Paul Woods]

olie i used to think we needed the v6 cor but we dont,just use the one thats on your mk1,it will need completely wiring in but thats a doddle mate.

[OlberJ]

Ah, i see. So apart from the engine harness that's still connected do i need anything else from the loom?

[Paul Woods]

have you grabbed the 4th ecu plug thats on the body harness behind the glove box?

[OlberJ]

Errr, i'll take a stab at no.

Not sure which one that is.

[Paul Woods]

theres a grey plug that goes into the D slot of the ecu,you will have removed it to take the ecu out,so the plug is still on the car,its got 22 pins and is the only one with 3 black/orange wires grouped together at one end,you cant miss it....cut that off the harness with about 6" of wire.

[OlberJ]

Nice one squire, cheers :thumbsup: i'll have a pop at it on Sunday.

Get the 4age out on Monday too.

Here it is on the stand, in all it's fairy goodness :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/87.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/88.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/89.jpg

And here's the modded stand arms, were too long for the bolts so had to chop them down a little.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/90.jpg

It's great fun having your engine on a stand like this, rebuilding it will be a doddle lol

[Murf]

Wahey, good progress!!
Expect next weekends pictures of it to be in a mk1 ;)

[adamh]

its quite a lump of stuff really.. :popcorn:

[OlberJ]

Needs stripped, cleaned, repainted and gaskets done 1st. That's monday's work.

Great to finally get stuck in about it tho.

Target is JAE. Could be quite kewl to have just the wiring to do and then drive it home. :mrgreen:

Ok so 2moro am gonna take the engine to pieces and get it cleaned up.

I can take the heads off complete and then take out the pistons and rods and the crank. Any tips on how to go about things?

Everything will be labelled and set out to make rebuilding easier.

Also what type of paint do i want for the inlet fannymould? Gonna paint that red, rest of the engine will be standard silver, might do the block black.

[millentubby]

I used plastikote super enamel to paint my cam covers - and they're still going strong over a year down the line!

If you want a hand doing a fancy design on the manifold just give me a shout :cool:

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/16021/engine2.jpg

[OlberJ]

Manifold will be plain red, pick out sum details in silver on the top mibbes.

Rocker covers i think i'll do silver.

Cheers though Col, i'll get sum plastikote from BnQ. Will plastikote do for the actual manifold aswell?

[Paul Woods]

olie i use 2k paint on the fannymoulds < lol ,it has fairly good heat resistant properties but has a great glossy shine to it.

[OlberJ]

Today's progress :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/114.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/115.jpg

Took the cam cover off to inspect the cams. One head was darker than the other, the oil that is, and 4 of the cams were very dark.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/116.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/117.jpg

and then on close inspection of the actual cams there looks a strange groove like wear, is this normal? :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/118.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/119.jpg

And are these wee holes at the end of the rocker covers, meant to be filled with gunk? Are they magnetised to attract crap? These were full of junk. One at each end of each head.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/120.jpg

Quite a lot of crap down in here aswell :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/121.jpg

And how we cleaned it out :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/122.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v239/OlberJ/Mr2V6/?action=view&current=Hooveringengine.flv)

All in all a decent day, except for getting stuck with the cam pulley bolts and me dad dropping a bolt down the inlet port.

[Paul Woods]

good progress olie,the cams are usually a different colour,i put this down to the rear bank being lower down and it must get submerged in more oil than the front bank whose oil will drain away from it quicker....thats my guess anyway.

The cam lobe wear looks normal to me,ive seen that a lot on my swaps.

[OlberJ]

That's reassuring, cheers boss.

Any ideas about the gunk holes?

[Paul Woods]

no sorry,i think they must just be um er...holes filled with gunk :)

[OlberJ]

It's just wierd cos one hole on each bank is rammed with gunk, and one on each bank has no gunk at all and is well oiled.

And they're at opposite ends of the engine too.

Very x-files lol

[Paff]

the truth is out there.

Glad your cam wear is usual as mine are looking very similar and can't affor new ones yet

[Jiff Lemon]

You got it mounted on that stand an odd way though matey!

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg

[OlberJ]

Twas the old yin that did it, honestly :hidesbehi

The pin goes in the top hole fine like that though. Maybe there's 4 holes?

[Jiff Lemon]

yeah there is - guess there's no right or wrong, it just looked odd in your pic!

[OlberJ]

Everything looks odd in my pictures. lol

[Paff]

mine looks even worse but at least it fitted in the end :)

[OlberJ]

Alrighty tighty, this is what i got up to today with a big hangover.

Rocker cover's off :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/242.jpg

Then a bit of faffing about later (see cam pulley thread), the head's were off:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/243.jpg

You can see here the old headgaskets, look alright but glad we're doing them. Waterways look a bit of a crap design on the gasket but not as strange as the new ones!

Scraped off the remainders of the gasket:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/244.jpg

What a mess that made, little bits of gasket everywhere. Did our best to keep it seperate, hoovered like fuck but i think the water system needs a damn good flush.

Next up we fitted the new headgaskets (Take note Tone lol ):
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/245.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/246.jpg

Is this normal with the tiny holes for waterways? Do i need to open them up a little or have i got the wrong gaskets?

So here's where i'm up to. Still need to do the timing belt and then get the heads fitted. Oh yes and painted the block with black VHT. Looks like it's been in a fire lol

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/247.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/248.jpg

And this dipstick, is there anything missing from the bottom of this bit that locates in the block?

I cleaned up the gunk on it and it now seems a little loose in it's hole. Have i scrubbed a seal off or something?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/249.jpg

[Marksman]

You've got a fairly square looking o-ring at the bottom of that dipstick tube. A new one of those will sort it out :thumbsup:

Owen.

[millentubby]

looks to be coming along nicely Olie!

I'll bring my mk1 round next weekend so you can pop the v6 in the back of it yeah? :D

[Paul Woods]

great progress olie :thumbsup:

[adamh]

working on the 2 is a good hangover cure!

[OlberJ]

Aye sure is, missus isnae too happy with me spending the majority of my weekends with me true love lol

Anyone ideas on the gaskets, are they fine or do they need fettling?

They defo go up in size from left to right for the water holes, is that to do with pressure or something?

MT you're welcome to drop round any weekend mate but the only way you'll leave with the V6 is if i'm lying dead next to it.

Bushes arrived yesterday, headbolts are arriving 2moro, ordered a new oil and fuel filter, new timing belt i will get 1st thing Sat morning.

Anything else i should be changing just now?

Spark plugs and HT leads?
Obviously oil and coolant.

Any more suggestions?

[Jiff Lemon]

You gonna pull the sump off and give the bottom end a wash out? Means that you can be sure all that gasket crap is definately out of the system and not about to clog your oil pump up....

[OohMatron]

Stick a new thermostat in it.?

Have you thought about water and oil pumps to give that little extra piece of mind.?

Looking good by the way :thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

Jiff i've had the sump off already but yes gonna clean it before rebuilding. What do you suggest cleaning it out with?

Also thinking about the water pump, can i flush the system through with a power hose to get rid of that gasket crap?

And how will i clean the gasket crap out the oilways on the block?

Water pump feels fine, no play etc. Cheers though Matron.

Just noticed the gaskets are the same as old ones. :doh: At least i know they're the right ones.

[Jiff Lemon]

when I cleaned my block, I basically drowned the thing with WD40; Oil ways scrubbed out with pipe cleaners and WD40.
For round one, I left the sump on, but for round two (which was 95% clean), sump came off again and I blasted WD40 everywhere and let it drip dry.
Once the sump went on for good it got half a litre of cheapo oil (did you know Tesco actually have a "tesco value" oil?) dropped in and pumped round manually to make sure all the bearings had a coating of oil

[OlberJ]

Sound, caheers squire.

Are the waterways/pump as fragile or can i blast them through with a power hose?

[Jaemus]

ol, i used a power hose and blasted every damn thing. thoroughly.

however, you need to dry it out equally thoroughly. this is a pain. epecially in the oilways and around the crank.

also make absolutely certain you get all the water out of the head stud holes.

agree about the cheapo oil too, ima dump the cheap repco brand oil at about 500k's and change it to penrite Sin

[OlberJ]

Cheers folks, today should be fun :thumbsup:

Anyone have the tightening order, torque and any special tricks i need to put the headbolts back in?

[OlberJ]

Today was a flurry of activity. :hidesbehi

Cleaned out the water and oilways and pretty happy that they're crap free. WIll do a couple of flushes when it's all back together though.

Managed to get the Camshaft Pulley bolt off. Just. Think i made a mistake with my scaling up from service manual. Pics later.

Here's my little tool for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/280.jpg

Works a treat. lol

[Garbe]

What did you do just chop it off lol

[OlberJ]

No, that big bar with the towel on it on the floor, that's my SST. :mrgreen:

[Garbe]

ahhh to hold the crank

[OlberJ]

Indeed, in the build manual it looks about 30cm in length. Not 2 metres. lol

[adamh]

nice tool olber, have you been sleeping in the garage?

[OlberJ]

Found it?

It was forged with the steel from a meteorite which fell to earth thousands of years ago and was hidden deep inside a mountain untill it was discovered by one Dr Jones but not 20 years ago. I bought it in a car boot sale in Niddrie for £20 and a packet of tangy toms.

Then proceeded to wreck three drill bits putting holes in it and an angle grinding disc for the slot.

Worth it though. lol

Adam, not me, it's where me giant guinea pig sleeps, he's handy with a spanner too. Shame about the drug habit he's got.

And on a less serious note, the crankshaft pulley, do we need a puller to get that off?

[Garbe]

pulley wheel - no it does come off

[OlberJ]

How so? Little persuasion with big tool again?

[Marksman]

How so? Little persuasion with big tool again?

Don't do that :slap: they're a tad brittle and tend to crack around the edge. You can indeed use a puller but that again can crack the edges. However you will notice two threaded holes in the crank pulley...


Howdy folks.

This is my version.

No need for the centre hole for this one. Loosten the crank bolt but do not remove. (Only undo a couple of turns as you'll be pushing on it.)

Leave the socket on the bolt.

Fit the tool to the pulley and then turn the bolts on the tool to remove. (Make sure to turn in small steps and equally on each side to keep the pulley coming off square.)

Once the pulley has moved then undo the main bolt more turns and repeat the process.

If you elongate the holes a little then the same tool can be used to remove the steering wheel.

Bolts came from a couple of "raw-bolts" sorry I don't remember the size.

Hope that helps,

Owen.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2006/06/104.jpg

How's that?

Owen.

[Garbe]

Owen doing a lovely bit of hand modeling there lol not oily enough to be brutal hands

[Paul Woods]

not a grinder scar in sight either! my left thumb has some cracking scars on it,a result of taking the guard off the grinder,almost chopped it off one day with a bosch! owen get it sorted :)

[Marksman]

:Hangs head in shame smiley:

O.S.

[OlberJ]

Thank you for the pulley removal tips.

Oh and the hand care tips too.

Didn't realise the holes in the pulley were threaded tho. Cheers.

[David Sleith]

If it has the same diameter holes as the supercharger pulley you can borrow this if its any use to you

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/283.jpg

[OlberJ]

Davie, i'll have to be adding your name to the Build title soon lol

I'll get the old yin to measure it and let you know, cheers mate.

[Marksman]

Yup, 4age, 4agze and 3sgte share the same hole spacings :thumbsup:

Owen.

[David Sleith]

Ok will bring it round for you.

When you gonna be needing the engine crane as I could bring it at the same time in the trailer.

I'm working like mad over the next few days but could drop it off Fri early evening if someone is gonna be about?

[OlberJ]

The old yin will be in anytime mate, just let me know when suits. Seriously top effort squire, cheers. :thumbsup:

I'll not need the crane for a wee while but i'll send the old yin up to you with the HGV for it, if that's ok.

Still aint got the headbolts yet but should have them for Friday. All back together on Saturday. :jump:

[Jiff Lemon]

You decided how to do the bulkhead yet?

[OlberJ]

Gonna cut a flap out for an access panel. Just makes much more sense for working on it.

What i may well do is a cross between the two ideas tho, shape it like it was fixed (the sloping trapezium idea as per JB's ) but have the centre panel removable.

Does the rear firewall hold much structural tension at the top?

[Jiff Lemon]

I know Paul Lopped it off completely at one point with Lilly, but I think it needs to be in place (waits to be corrected). The biggest problem I'm facing (apart from the inability to weld) is that you need to make sure you can still seal the boot lid in (so you don't get water in the boot) and make sure water can get out of engine bay.

[OlberJ]

A rubber seal on the top of the new wall or maybe on the boot lid should sort that methinks.

Is it water coming in the top that's the problem or getting sooked up with the air flow?

[Paff]

I'll not need the crane for a wee while but i'll send the old yin up to you with the HGV for it, if that's ok.

How bigs the fuckin crane :)

[David Sleith]

The old yin will be in anytime mate, just let me know when suits. Seriously top effort squire, cheers. :thumbsup:

I'll not need the crane for a wee while but i'll send the old yin up to you with the HGV for it, if that's ok.

Still aint got the headbolts yet but should have them for Friday. All back together on Saturday. :jump:

No problem

[OlberJ]

lol @ Paff, it's a Honda CRV, or HGV as i like to call it :mrgreen:

Spent Saturday doing some cleaning and painting. Decided i'd do the rocker covers in VHT and i quite like the way they've turned out. Look a little orangey in the pics but very ferrari-esque with the pitted matt finish :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/286.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/287.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/288.jpg

Should look the business when we've sorted the inlet fannymould aswell. Thinking red for that too but might leave it polished silver.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/289.jpg

Is it possible to buy an SST for removing the crankshaft pulley? That's the last part i needs to do before rebuilding.

Is there a gasket that goes behind the cooler here?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/290.jpg

Anyone got a part-no for it?

Starting to feel like am getting sumwhere with this now. :mrgreen:

[Garbe]

Looking good, loving the red, however vht tends to chip very easily.

[Garbe]

IIRC in the manual it says to use 2 long screw drivers either side to pry the pulley off, wrapped in some cloth to protect where they touch the engine. Also leave the bolt on to stop it flying off.

[OlberJ]

There's already a bit of the inner pulley edge cracked from when the previous belt was changed.

Do we re-use the inner pulley or is it just the outer one for the alternator?

[Jaemus]

ooh nice! agree about the ferarri-esqueness
very sweet

[millentubby]

jeez you're fairly motoring on with this one Olie!

Mr2oc Highland drive in June...no slacking now! ;)

[OlberJ]

Hehe, aye right MT, i'll crack the funnies.

JAE 2007.

Need the t-bar for the highland drive anyways. :cool:

[Garbe]

Do we re-use the inner pulley or is it just the outer one for the alternator?

the inner pulley is attached to the outer (bigger one) its one piece. that little one was for the power steering or ac pump cant remeber exactly.

[OlberJ]

Aye, what i meant was if a little of the inner is damaged, as it is in this pic :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/289.jpg

Just about 11 oclock you can see the chipped pulley rim. Think that was from when it was removed before.

As long as it ain't critical, as you said, for running the PS.

Rebuilt by Saturday. Definitely. Then it's time to start on the mr2, swap the exhaust onto the T-Bar and haway we go! :jump:

Well today was eventfull. The cockjockeys at Toyota have sent me 12 head bolts and 4 random larger bolts.

So still being stuck at the frustrating ready to go back together stage.

Turn me attention to the brakes and the new ST165 twin piston stup looks and feels a lot meatier.

Started in the sunshine, just as the brakes came off the rain started and kept going untill we'd finished. Now sunny as fuck outside.

As the saying goes, "If you don't like the weather in Scotland, just wait 5mins."

:doh:

[lodgeman]

olber mate ! sorry i havent sent that bolt yet! bloody woork seems to be getting in the way!!!!:rant: working 7 days a week at the mo :hand: what i can say is that i have a undamaged pulley if you want it! just let me know and i can send the two things together!:thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

This one should be fine, cheers though mate.

What i really need is an SST or someone to show me how to make one so i can remove the pulley.

[adamh]

olber how a HSS tool hire shop.. they might have a 3 jaw hydraulic puller you could use, thats what i used. mr sparks made a fine tool for crank pulley removal..

http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=4037&highlight=crank+pulley

[OlberJ]

Gotta get rid of the Camry soon so gonna do a last ditch removal of parts before i sling the remainders in the boot and get it taken away.

Can't have 2 cars sitting on the drive and gonna be startin on the 2 Velly soon.

So i know i need :

- 4th ECU plug and 6" of wire.
- V6 badge lol

What else will i need?

- Camry Tacho bit on back of clocks
- Any other electrical or mechanical bits?


Needs to be ready to go this weekend or me mam will do a double castration with 2 large bricks.

[lodgeman]

tacho wont work on the mk1 - you need to have it recalibrated or get an adjuster - paul w will give the info. the tacho is only for the mk2's

[OlberJ]

Hokey dokey, cheers Al. Anything else you can think of i may need from the Camry?

Any more wiring needed, relyas or fuses etc?

[Garbe]

Try and chop out a good length of wire - so you can match up when you come to do the wiring on the mk1.

[Jiff Lemon]

Hokey dokey, cheers Al. Anything else you can think of i may need from the Camry?

Any more wiring needed, relyas or fuses etc?

I stripped every self tapping screw I could find out the damn thing - You never have enough of them!

You've got the vac chamber from under the battery tray?

[OlberJ]

Yep, black cannister with 2 pipes coming from it?

[Jaemus]

thats the one matey

[OlberJ]

Just about to tighten up these headbolts, any tips other than the ones in the build manual?

[Paul Woods]

try not to exhibit your "fuckface" on the last 90* turns lol

[OlberJ]

lol Was reminiscent of that "Virgin School" so it was, shaking arms and everythin. All done though.

Right, some more questionies. Is this enough wire for the 4th ECU plug? And is it the 4th ECU plug? :mrgreen:

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/171.jpg

This is the gearbox, any ideas what rev i've got? Is that an electrical speedo censor circled?
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/172.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/173.jpg

And can you check this timing for me please. Cams in place and correct :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/174.jpg

but what about the crank, should it be at 0 or 10?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/175.jpg

All went back together quite nicely. Next up is the outer camshafts, what's the tirck with the backlash gears?


Cheers,

[OlberJ]

It's getting there :thumbsup:

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/176.jpg

[Paul Woods]

length of wire,check!
gearbox=LSD,check!
cam timing,check! (crank sits on 0)
backlash gears...rotate one half of the exhaust cam gear until you can pass a lock bolt (m6) through it to lock it,then install the cam and when its locked down remove the bolt.

[OlberJ]

LSD? What, you mean acid?

I think i've won a watch with that one then, LSD n/a box? Thought that was only on the turbos.

Does the half of the camshaft turn quite freely or is it toight?

[Paul Woods]

oops uncheck lsd on NA box,i thought we were dealing with a tubby one!

you can just about turn one half of the camshaft gear by hand but its bloody tight the further its turned,i use pointy nose pliers in the side holes

[OlberJ]

Nice one, will sort that tomorrow then. Cheers boss.

Would the engine run at all if it was at 10* before. Got a nagging feeling it was.

Right, Paul's done his bit, the rest of you lazy bastards, is that a Mechanical or Electrical Speedo drive?

[lodgeman]

its electrical mate, if it was the other type it would be able to screw the speedo cable onto it!:thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

That's what i was thinking, cheers Lodge.

Any ideas about the 10* timing? Would it even run if it was set at that before?

[adamh]

timing as per 0 degrees at tdc is for mechanical setting and is gospel.. not sure about 10 degree ..you mean when running it fires at 10 degree BTDC.. but you set it at 0 initially.. the rest is controlled by ignition.

[OlberJ]

No, i think when i lined up the camshaft marks at the top, the mark on the crankshaft was at 10*. This is before removal.

So you reckon it wouldn't run, or would very badly if that was the case?

[adamh]

oh it would run.. just not right. i would imagine either the exhaust valves opening/closing early.. or doing the opposite opening / closing late to cylinder motion. either way it wouldnt run right! and would run under power spluttery generally or overheating on long runs.

[Jaemus]

olber; a point worth noting: an NA LSD gearbox is possible. it was an option on various jap models, possibly some other local models but i dont know about UK, after gen2 iirc.

[OlberJ]

How do i test it then?

Driveshafts in and try and turn them seperately?

[Shugsta]

If you rotate one shaft, and the other rotates in the same direction, then you've bagged an LSD. Counter rotation means boggo standard.

[OlberJ]

Cheers Shugsta, will check that out at the weekend.

How would that work when you drive though, i thought an LSD meant one wheel turned independant of the other, or have i got it polar opposite wrong again? :mrgreen:

[Shugsta]

Imagine going round a corner with loads of lateral G... inside wheel lifts and therfor loses traction -> forward drive.

If that happens with an LSD, the traction is taken up by the outside wheel that is making far more contact with the planet. GOOD:thumbsup:

Same senario; this time without LSD. Loss of traction and forward drive is lost because th inside wheel just spins under power while the outside wheel is just rolling along under the car's momentum.:naughty:

That's how I see it but I'm sure the details will be made clear by some of our more learned brethern.

[OlberJ]

No, that makes perfect sense, cheers mate, will try it out at weekend.

Got a bit of work done last night, all the internals are back together minus one camshaft bolt, timing all sorted :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/205.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/206.jpg

What's the crack with the distributer plate and how it's adjustable, does this need to be perfect or can it be adjusted on the car?

Gonna put the rest of the parts on it tommorow night with the electrics and stand it in the corner ready to go so av got space to do the 4age swap.

Still worried about this bit though, is there a gasket behind here i am missing?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/290.jpg


Cheers,
Olie

[adamh]

nice work olber, cant help out on the gasket im afraid.

[GaryA]

if ya talking about the oil filter take off then it has a rubber o ring well it has 2 one small one inside and a bigger one for the main seal .

[OlberJ]

Yeah Wombat, where the oil take off joins onto the block, is there a gasket goes there?

Do you have a part no. per chance?


Cheers,
Olie

[millentubby]

Lookin good Olie - I'll bring my mk1 round in a few days and you can drop the v6 right in :D

On a serious note - Not gonna make it over on saturday to lend a hand; Old man wants the caliper on his Laguna stripped and rebuilt before it's mot. See ya at the Highland Drive!

[OlberJ]

That's cool matey, i'll just soldier on myself lol

Oh and btw, i've put another 3 locks on the garage ya bass!

[millentubby]

Pah...my angle grinder eats locks for breakfast :D

Might need to borrow a power-socket though :)

[OlberJ]

You'll need to get past the killer guard dog though. :whistle:

[GaryA]

It's just a big rubber o ring , haven't got a part number as i can't pluck up the courage to go into MrT with me shopping list :hidesbehi get the small one inside while ya there as it seals the hole in the middle for the feed . Anyway it will all become clear when you take it off :thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

As per other thread, nightmare of a day on Saturday and couldn't be arsed yesterday with the weather so here's the obligatory shot :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/237.jpg

V6 is sitting ready to go so off home today to prep the engine bay.

Guess i better get myself some mounts sorted. :mrgreen:

[loadswine]

That's a very novel way of supporting a rear wing. Lol!

[OlberJ]

Cleaned out the bay as best i could today, still got a bit of thew mounts to remove, what else should i be taking out?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/241.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/05/242.jpg

Do we re-use the clutch hydraulic thingy on the mk2 box?

Started some arch repairs aswell today, short term filler and primer, will get pics of that when it's done too.

What do i do with the fusebox, does that stay with the V6?


Cheers,
Olie

[Jiff Lemon]

Fuse box stays, as does the hydraulic clutch.

More grinderage needed on them mounts - You'll be held back in detention until they're loverly and smooth. (although grinding through the handbrake cable does get you a gold star for effort!)

[OlberJ]

Handbrake cable? Grinding? Me?

That hydraulic clutch is a beatch to get the engine past on the way out, as much hassle on the way back in?

Passenger mount aint even fully off yet, had to stop play due to impending rain. Will be off week after next though, then it's mount welding time and get the fecker in the box.

Plumbing etc will be fine, more worried about gear selectors and the exhaust!

[Jiff Lemon]

and worried you should be! it's a bloody awfull job - Still revising my solution (now on Rev3, rev 4 being tried next weekend)

[adamh]

good work olber.. when it stops raining ? :jok:

:welsh:

[OlberJ]

Righto, this weekend, i shall be mostly......

- Fitting the High n Tight Bushes we got el cheapo from the states.
- Fitting 4V6's woonderfool engine mount
- Removing the last of the old mounts and cutting the new ones out
- Testing out driveshafts in gearbox and looking for LSD behaviour
- Cutting the rear firewall
- Repainting the Azev's (I'm calling them that, no one will know lol)
- Dog sitting
- Taking the old yin out for Father's Day

Should be fun as long as the weather improves. Otherwise i'm doing a lot of work in the garage and the old yin can fit the bushes :thumbsup:

I don't think there's too much to do for JAE but am sure it'll multiply inversely as the weekends dissapear.

[millentubby]

Olie - anything happening on saturday?

VC from the OC's in town, and I thought I heard something about Mike's V6SC coming to town?

Fancy a wee mini-meet cos I'm shit-bored with all this bloody revision. Need an afternoon off. :D

[OlberJ]

Aye mate, if it's local. You still coming over to help out?

[millentubby]

Aye why not :D

waht time does the fun begin?

[OlberJ]

9am blunt lol

You know where you're going this time, no need for bits of paper to be flying out of windows.

[millentubby]

haha I'll try my best! But doubt I'll be out my bed before Mid-day! lol

Last time I wasn't driving...but will see what happens.

IIRC I drive along a/the motorway for a bit, then take a turning and go past some sort of bowling place/shopping centre/bridge and take a left, then a sharp right.

Fuck it...don't give me any clues...I like a challenge!

[OlberJ]

Aye, turn left at the tree with the painted red hand.

lol

Another eventfull weekend see's me a bit behind schedule but am getting there.

Still, got the gearbox tested, no lsd, Booooo.
Fitted the clutch release bearing and the selector fork from the spare mk1 box.
Driveshafts are painted up.
Engine is back together completely, EGR mods done, still need bolt and o-rings though.
Tony's mount is on there and bolted up.

Does this look a-ok with the release bearing?
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/06/147.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/06/148.jpg

It seems to be fine, am i right in that the mk1 release fork will be fine aswell?

After the major tidy up of the garage, it's starting to get messy again :
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/06/149.jpg

Oh yes, and got a very kind gift from Mr Woods which will make life soooo much easier. And thanks to Mr Sherry for his ferrying of said item.

Cheers chiefs :thumbsup:

[Portgordon]

I would so love to be able to do all of this on my own. It just seems like so much fun being able to put things like this together in your own garage!

I smell an Open University course coming on.

[OlberJ]

Pfffft, Open University my arse.

It's all here Marky boy. Anyone can do it.

If you got the money though, getting someone else to do it is well worth it. Especially when you consider what Paul charges for the work, mine will be nowhere near the same standard.

It is good getting your hands dirty though, when things go right. When they don't it's a pisser. lol

[loadswine]

A bit more progress , well done! Shame there isn't a cheap source of LSDs available.

[Portgordon]

Aye getting someone who knows what they are doing to do it is of course the safe and sensible way to do things - especially where my pride and joy is concerned.

But I would love to have a Pontiac Trans-Am sitting in my driveway / garage that I could work on sticking a lovely v8 in, in my own time and not really worrying about timescales etc... it would be a project car that I could make mistakes on etc... and learn as I go.

I need to get a house with a driveway and garage (and pit!) first though!

[OlberJ]

Aye, had a pit to do the pug205 engine swap and it was a god send!

When we move into a house i'm definitely getting a garage and a pit (That's the parentals garage back in Hamilton there.)

When you got everything out infront of you, laid out in the correct order, it's just bolting things back together with the correct torques, cleaning, painting and the obligatory grinding.

You gotta have a project to work on, nothing like losing yourself for a night/weekend/week working away creating something with your hands. :thumbsup:

Jus remembered, need to order myself some suspension an all. Do that with the bushes.

[millentubby]

Aye getting someone who knows what they are doing to do it is of course the safe and sensible way to do things - especially where my pride and joy is concerned.

Nobody?

Ok then...

Just don't tell the Missus that ;)

:woods:

[Portgordon]

lol

"CUT!! Bring in the stunt C0ck!"

:boogie:

[OlberJ]

Gonna get the mounts cut out this week so they're ready to go for the weekend. Using the mk1.5 templates.

Jus wondered where abouts, i.e what height do the bolt holes go in the mounts for a V6?

[Paul Woods]

olie you have my v6 jig matey,so place the plates one at a time on either side of the jig,shove a bolt through the jig with some paint on the end of it so it marks the hole position on the plate,remove plate,drill and its ready to weld in,so the same for each side :thumbsup:

[OlberJ]

That makes sense, cheers boss :thumbsup:

Can't wait to get this thing in the bay!

Righto, hit a few problems.

Got the bolt and o-ring on order, got a 925mm 6 rib belt for the alternator and that's fitted perfik.

Fitted the clutch and the box to the engine and the selector fork seems to be stuck solid, doesn't release the release bearing. It's a mk1 fork we used, does it have to be a mk2 one we use?

The mk1 clutch slave cylinder doesn't line up with sed selector fork. Would this be solved with the mk2 fork or do i need a mk2 clutch slave cylinder thingy aswell?

Should the fork be movable by hand? Am thinking it should, maybe the bearing isn't right on the input shaft and it's stuck?

Got pics on my phone but no laptop to upload them too. Will do as soon as the new one arrives.

V6 ain't gonna be at JAE now but i still will defo be, noseying around all the built mk1.6's and asking politely for passenger rides. :mrgreen:

[Murf]

shame dude,i was looking forward to a shot on the way home!

[Paul Woods]

olie you need to use all mk2 equipment,so thats mk2 fork,mk2 clutch slave/gear cable bracket thingy or it wont work matey

[OlberJ]

Got the suspension ordered this morning. Went for the Koni sport Kit, £380 from Awesome GTi, will look at the GC coilovers as and when but 30mm will be fine for now.

Got mk2 mounts, release fork, clutch slave cylinder all to be picked up at JAE.

Bought ourselves that radiator off ebay too.

So should have all the bits and ready rock by August. Pissed aff it's not gonna be at JAE but them's the breaks i guess.

Anything else i've missed out we need to get this beggar on the road?

[msherry21]

ball joints, rear mk2 ARB? always worth doing while the suspensions off. What else are you doing to the suspension?

[OlberJ]

Av got Polyurethane bushes to go on. Will sort some ball joints too.

Much is the ARB roughly? Seeing as it's gonna be off for the bushes.

[msherry21]

I got mine for a tenner, there not expensive at all, the front one is though, about £100 if I remember but thats specific to the mk1.

[OlberJ]

Saturday was a flurry of action again :whistle:

Got the suspension, Koni sport Kit, and it's came with Lesjofor springs, they any good?

Decided to remove the old suspension and fit the new ones. Managed to get as far as taking the rear suspension off. Cut 2 droplinks so need 2 new fiesta jobbies. Having a little hassle removing the old struts but just need that huge spanner tool for the tops of the sleeve.

Got the mounts ready to go in, jus need a bit more prep work on the chassis rails 1st.

Good point was Davey dropped over with a welder for us, cheers boss, tis much appreciated :thumbsup:

Engine is finally finished, cam cap bolt and dipstick o-ring there.

Got slave cylinder, clutch fork on it's way and the mounts hopefully in the post.

Still need that blooming mech speedo drive.

[David Sleith]

I have a huge pair of pipe grips that will take those sleeve tops clean off no problem mate if you need to borrow them.

Try the jap car breakers in Coatbridge for your speedo drive - they have an advert in the motor market weekly. They do charge a fortune though, but if your desperate!

[OlberJ]

Think the old yin was off to buy something for the strut sleeves.

Is that JapAutoSpares you're meaning? Am scared to go up there, i might buy one of those LS400's lying about lol

[David Sleith]

Thats the one. They are robbing bar stewards though. Wouldn't go near them unless I was totally desperate.

Not very friendly either

[OlberJ]

Righty-ho!

Mounts are here, droplinks are here, welder is ready to rock and we have all the parts needed to get this thing in and running.

Will weld the mounts in on Monday, bolt the other mounts up to the box and engine, grease up the driveshafts and slot the lot in.

Where do we get the stuff for the polymounts again? May aswell do these when we've got them out. RS Components?

I take it the fuel pump needs done when the engine is out too?

Anything else i've missed out? Got a whole week off work next week and only a trip to North Wales to pick up this mx5 to contend with.

Murf, what you doing next weekend? :mrgreen:

[Garbe]

tis RS components

[Murf]

Murf, what you doing next weekend?

Awww, i'm going away for the whole weekend to a 480 owners club meet! Pretty solid with work at the moment too, as well as having to fit new wishbones and wash/polish the 480 AND i've still got rakes of stuff to do to the mk1!!
Would love to help though, bugger!

[Paff]

If I wasn't so far away I'd help too

[OlberJ]

Tis alright, wiring can't be THAT hard lol

[Paff]

doesn't matter how hard it is would just be nice to help get another mk1V6 on the rroad :)

[OlberJ]

rrroad? lol

I like it.

[Paff]

yeah accidentally hit 2 r's and can't ever be arsed to correct my spelling

[Murf]

I thought the multiple R's was an in-joke amongst you V6 owners, roooooaaarrrr!! ;)


When are you hoping for start up? I could hopefully make a couple of weeknights next week and maybe a night this week if thats any use?

[OlberJ]

Well it's pissing down here today so i dunno if i'll get the mounts welded in.

As long as it's in and plumbed then wiring's the last bit i need to worry about, no rush Murf, just whenever you're free.

Mounts are shaped and bolted to jig, just need welded in now, got 2moro 2 sort that.

New clutch fork is in and sorted, now sits where it should.

Am i missing something from these mounts? Can't see how this connects on the gearbox side to the mounts we're welding in.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/68.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/69.jpg

Can picture how the rest of them fit but it seems like i have 2 engine side mounts. Any ideas?

Also is tyhere a guide for dropping the tank and replacing the pump, i'e where the bolts are etc? Gonna give that a shot 2moro too.


Cheers,

[Marksman]

Yup you do indeed have two engine side mounts, and one and a half torque mounts. You are in need of a 4V6 engine mount to go between the V6 and the soon to be welded in chassis mounts. (At least last time I spoke to Paul he said he was making the jig that way.)


O.S.

EDIT sorry just re-read and seen you asked about gearbox side :slap:

[Marksman]

Sorry about the above :slap: Which box are you using?

O.S.

[adamh]

Also is there a guide for dropping the tank and replacing the pump, i'e where the bolts are etc?

rough guide only my friend its been a while!.

make sure battery is not connected. make sure tank is drained off, theres a big drain nut in the middle at the bottom.

then assuming you allready have nothing plummed up its a cinch. remove the centre console in the cab.. locate the two white plastic plugs one for fuel pump one for level sender they dissapear through rubber into the fuel tank area, disconnect them and poke them clear down the rubber so they dissapear. the rest of the work is underneath..

remove the handbrake bracket where both rear wheels connect to, the cable grommits pop out the bracket, drop the bracket aswell, there are two tank holding brackets one at back one at front, undo with 10mm spanner, drop the tank.. i think the speedo cable might need moving aside aswell.

pump change is relatively simple for a turbo pump, just remove the pump out of the tank its under a round flange with lots of bolts in it, change pump over and connect up, careful with the rubber gasket, clean on re-assembly.

when putting it back.. first.. tie two 2 foot lengths of wire or something onto the electrical plugs hanging out the top of the tank, get your tank in place and thread the wires back through the large rubber grommit in the centre console, get somebody to carefully and gently pull the wires through while your lifting, careful now, dont want to break the wires.

sit and have one of these: :booz:

[OlberJ]

Cheers Adam, that's Perfik :thumbsup:

Owen, it's an N/A box am using. I've got Tone's mount already sorted and that side bolts up fine, it's just the gearbox side which is confussing me.

I can't see how the mount can possibly fit, therefor methinks i've got one wrong mount.

Anyone got a pic of a gearbox mount for a mk2?

[Jiff Lemon]

Good couple of pics on this ebay ad (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MR2-UK-GEARBOX_W0QQitemZ260147976872QQihZ016QQcategoryZ10 428QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) fella

[Garbe]

looks like you're missing the gearbox side mount.
You have 2 engine side mounts (bit that bolts to the 4V6 adaptor) only 1 needed.

[OlberJ]

Ah, i got the right bit, well half of it, i'm missing that L-shaped bracket that goes inbetween the box and the rubber mount casing. I'll speak to the guy i bought the mounts off. Or anyone else got one?

Cheers for the help boys.

Got the welder working and the mounts are in :thumbsup: Will post up pics when i get home tonight.

I defo need some practice welding but they feel solid enough and i'll triangulate them and cap them.

The engine side mount seems very close to the chassis rail but pics of Michaels put it in the same place and the jig can't be wrong. Once the mounts are triangulated the engine is going in for a test hang/fit, aiming for Saturday :jump: *Edit* (If i get the gearbox mounty bit, will try some scrappies)

[lodgeman]

i have one here that you can borrow if you dont get one in time! its on the box jiff gave me for the beams conversion so i will need one back - just not straight away;) let me know if you get into trouble mate!

[OlberJ]

Top man Lodge, will check out the local scrappies 1st but i'll let you know, cheers :thumbsup:

[Murf]

Try the jap breakers in coatbridge, they are rude tosspots but usually have a couple of mk2's in breaking!

[OlberJ]

Righto, no laughing at the crap welding :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/88.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/89.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/90.jpg

and here it is from above :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/08/91.jpg

I take it they're meant to be offset like this?

If i want to re-weld them, can i do it while they're still in or do i need to cut them out and start again? Or u think they're alright as is?

[Jiff Lemon]

Position looks fine - It is supposed to be offset; Can't comment on the weld as I'm used to seeing BSM's Welding which looks more like Molten Lava flow than pidgeon shit!

[lodgeman]

rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao ooops sorry did you say laugh or dont laugh?lol i think they will need a bit more that that after the trial fit! try upping the power and the speed of the wire if you are migging!dont forget you will need to weld all the way up the inner wing as well so you may have to remove them to clean the metal up first! good attempt though!

[David Sleith]

Sorry mate but that won't hold bugger all.

Make sure you are getting gas flow from the tip - you will hear it when the trigger is pulled. Looks like you need to clean the welding surface so its ultra shiny and free of crap. Get a good clean earth connection as close to the weld area as possible and as lodge says turn up the current and wire feed. Needs to be virtually on full setting for that thickness on that welder.

If you have spare metal you need to practice getting your settings right.

Once the mounts are done it should be impossible to break them off with a 2lb hammer

[Marksman]

Hi Olber.

Offset is OK :thumbsup:

To be honest I'd take them out and have another bash at it. The welds look a little too much like they're sitting on top of the metal rather than penetrating into it. You'll also need to clean off the paint a bit more. The bits along the chassis rails look cleaned but not anything at all higher up? We're looking for a good seam all the way around any edge where mount meets car...

Sorry.

Owen.

[OlberJ]

The mounts don't touch the chassis legs so dunno whether to re-cut the mounts or try and put triangle sections from the mount to the legs. Or just box section the mounts so they're solid.

I thought the welding looked crap but felt sound enough. Ach well, lesson learned lol

That bastarding gearbox mount is an engine side mount, Sorry Hasad, you were perfectly correct.

Bollocks and blast.

Will check the scrappies for both bits when i get a chance.

If i clean up the bird's nest crap ontop of the "weld" with the grinder, will it be possible to weld on top of that and penetrate it or should i defo rip them out and start again?

[Marksman]

Rip em out I'd say, much easier to clean all the mating surfaces that way.

Oh, sometimes inner wheel arches can be tonked (from inside the wheel well) to ease them closer to the mounts if that helps.

All the best,

Owen.

[lodgeman]

tonked? is that a welsh term?lol

[OlberJ]

There's a fair gap. Might be better cutting new mounts. Will have a blast on Thu and see how i get on.

Think my problem was holding the nib too close, the manual said 5mm of wire max but if i have it further out i reckon i can get a much better weld, or rather an actual weld lol

[lodgeman]

its the actual penetration that you need:gay: when it is flowing correctly it sounds like bacon sizzling. and no need to replace the mounts just tack it at the closest points and just tap the inner wing closer. just keep an eye out for setting fire to the underseal on the inner wings!:thumbsup:

[Paul Woods]

olie i wouldnt take any chances on this at all matey,these mounts are carrying the full weight of your engine and gearbox.... is there any way you can hire or bribe a BSM type person to come along and solidly weld these in? its crucial these have perfect thick penetrating welds bud,if in any doubt at all get someone in,wish the car was here id do it in a crack for you,only take 20 minutes.

[OlberJ]

Davie has offered to blow holes in...errr weld in the mounts nice and solid for me, just thought i'd give it a go myself 1st.

Does it go on, or rather in, in one slow solid line or is it like putting sealant on where it kind of doubles back on the bit you've just welded, like folds?

[BSM]

Rather than try to explain have alook here mate, any questions give me a shout.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tutorial.htm

BSM

[OlberJ]

Si, that's ace, explains a lot!

zig zagging and the right angle is the key with the correct speed and power settings.

Should have read something like this first :doh:

[Jiff Lemon]

Don't worry Ollie - I can sit there, read and read and still make a complete pigs ear of it. Practice apparently, is the key.

thankfully BSM started his practive a VERY long time ago and on rusty mini's! Probably why the boy is so damn good now!

[OlberJ]

And there in! :mrgreen:

No pics but they can withstand a proper whack with the hammer no problem. Think my welding has improved lol

Shooty in from here now:whistle:

What's the stuff we put ontop of the welding, seam sealant/sealer? Before the paint i means. Where will i get it from?

I can't wait to get this thing in there now. Need to find a gearbox mount an all though.

Paul, do you have a good description of what to do with the y-piece in the downpipes? Am thinking about redesigning it further back at 45* or so, but might just take out the restrictive bit for now.

[Murf]

Good work chap! Getting closer to wire up time.......
Stuff the Y pipes, take 4 seperate pipes straight to the back of the car, unsilenced!

[OlberJ]

4? What sorta shitey gettup do you think this is?

:mrgreen:

[Murf]

So what we getting then, a seperate pipe for each cylinder?
RRROOOOAAAAARRRRRR!!!!

[Marksman]

This is the stuff I use Olber, purchased from halfrauds. I also use the weld through primer over the top to make it pretty much waterproof. It will rust but only if you leave it a couple of months where as if left bare it'd go in a couple of hours. Don't use this sealant in really cold or wet conditions as it won't set and it's a real pig to scrape out. (Just ask Paff!) Also don't put it on over fresh rattle can paint as it has a habit of reacting to it. So fresh bare welds, wire brush, seam sealant and then paint. Weld through is not really necessary but I like it's because you can still weld more bits on if you want without going back to bare metal and it's pretty rust inhibiting.

Hope that helps,

Owen.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/6.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/7.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/8.jpg

[Paul Woods]

on a mk1 v6 you can simply bash out the Y pipe restrictor or make the rear pipe go backwards instead of forwards and Y them together around the anti roll bar area before joining the rest of the system

[David Sleith]

Good stuff mate. I use the same seam sealer as Owen and its good stuff and takes paint over it very well.

[OlberJ]

Cheers folks, will send the old yin out for some today. The engine side mount walls were tight as feck when we dummy fitted the rubber mount in there.

Will need to top plate it or add some bracing, just to be on the safe side.

[Limeymk1]

Do you chaps think POR15 would do instead of seam sealant? :hmm:

[David Sleith]

Not used POR15 but is it not just like a paint? The seam sealer stops water getting into any porous cracks in your weld. It makes excellent stuff if your welds are shite and you don't want the MOT man inspecting too hard. Not that you want that on your 1.5 engine mounts but handy on the daily hack.

[Limeymk1]

It's a rustproofing paint that dries like an enamel coat, bloody rock solid stuff and would probably need to be removed with a grinder. lol According to the literature it cures using the moisture on the surface you've applied it to. :hmm:

[OlberJ]

Hope you don't mind Paul :

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/44.jpg

[Paul Woods]

hes vandalised me bloody engine jig!! lol

[OlberJ]

Rub it off then lol

Or i could do what Jiff suggested and weld it on.


Mind you, then you could rub it off again. :hmm:

[Paul Woods]

nooo im going to clearcoat laquer over the top to protect it!

[OlberJ]

Righty-ho, gearbox mount is on it's way and will be here for friday so full steam ahead to get the bastard into the bay. Couple of q's :

1) If i put the engine in, i've still not moved the lambda sensor, will the car run with this not plugged in, or will it just run shite?

2) How high does the back end of the car need to be jacked up? Paul, how did you do this before u got ramps?

3) When swapping the fuel pump, do i need to disconnect it from the tank end 1st or somehwere else? Do these wires need soldered to the new pump?

4) If it's running for Monday, do i get a prize?

5) Why are all the mk1V6's coupe's so far?

[Paul Woods]

1) yep it'll run but rich as johnny

2) rear end needs to be at least 32" off the ground,i used a jacking beam across the front chassis member in the engine bay,just behind the petrol tank

3) disconnect from the engine bay end,lots of pipes! then remove the centre console and unplug both fuel sender and pump connectors,shove them through the hole....then remove the handbrake linkages/cables under the floor and drop the tank out

4) yes you get the next weekend off

5) fuctifino

:thumbsup:

[Paff]

Why are all the mk1V6's coupe's so far?

Mines a Tbar mate :)

[OlberJ]

Cheers Paff, am blind you see :doh:

Cheers Paul.

[lodgeman]

oh and you sat and went in my............................................t bar!!!!!;) :rofl:

[Paul Woods]

lol and just to blow olies post totally to shit lily was a t-bar when she had a v6 in lol

[OlberJ]

Fuck the lot of ye's. Am off to play with my mk2.

[Marksman]

With a grinder I hope?

O.S.

[OlberJ]

Just noticed an email from parcel2go, me bloody mount was only sent today, 2-4days delivery time.

Guess i'll be robbin parts off the mk2 before it's even had a chance to get comfy.

C'est la vie.

Oh and the mk2 has a mech speedo drive too. Bonus.

2moro will consist of mostly, swapping fuel pumps and last minute prepping for Saturday's insertion :gay:

[David Sleith]

swapping fuel pumps and last minute prepping for Saturday's insertion :gay:

Something for the weekend sir :blabla:

The fuel tank drop and back in again is a bitch of a job. Remember and disconnect the wires inside at the gearstick for pump and sender before you do anything.

[OlberJ]

Check. I take it the new pump has to have the wires soldered on? I'll get Murf to bring his iron.

[David Sleith]

Check. I take it the new pump has to have the wires soldered on? I'll get Murf to bring his iron.

Can't remember soldering anything when I done mine. Its explanatory enough when you get the pump out.

[OlberJ]

Its explanatory enough when you get the pump out.

That's what they told me last time. She still went home with a dissapointed look on her face.

[David Sleith]

That's what they told me last time. She still went home with a dissapointed look on her face.

But your not supposed to use it on her

[OlberJ]

How else do you inflate her?

[David Sleith]

How else do you inflate her?

Blow into her nipples :blabla:

[OlberJ]

Can you tell what it is yet?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/09/140.jpg

Major thanks to Murf and the old yin. I'm off for a celebratory bottle of buckfast. :jump: :jump: :jump:

[Murf]

Engine is in,woohoo!
Cheers to your mum for feeding up all day,yum!

[Zip]

Why do your camrys lack the enormous washer bottles that mine has?

Mine can hold between 3 and 4 litres :eek2:

[Paul Woods]

well done olie,not long now matey

[millentubby]

Woopwoop!

Good stuff dude well done! Wish I could have come along to play yesterday but had to do gearbox strippery things on planet farm and had no petrol to travel through with anyway :(

More pics!