cleaning safely? also head and block surfaces

[Jaemus]

im currently scraping all the leftover head gasket off the block, my question is, given that i dont want to take the sump apart if i can avoid it, how careful do i have to be with getting crap down the oil passages? ive blocked them up, but im sure some crap will probably fall down when i pull the blocking paper out. i figure the coolant passages dont matter so much, i plan on giving the whole thing a good flushing when its reassembled.

also, what can i do DIY wise to prep the block and head surfaces? ive read that 1200 grit with WD40 is good for the heads, but what about the block?

[adamh]

12-1500 and a wooden / rubber body sanding type block careful with splinters, this is just to be sure there are no nicks in the block face. if your not getting either skimmed then as you say. personally I wouldn't do that without taking the sump off at least, you can then wash the abrasive crap right through properly which in effect is lapping paste and will reduce life considerably. if anything gets caught in the sump strainer pipe your in trouble with oil pressure , could be catastrophic, not worth chancing!.

[Jaemus]

thanks guys! very helpful, i think ill be taking the sump off then.

EDIT: i also planned on, after getting it running, dumping the first load of oil and its filter, after a hundred k's or so, as insurance. then ill go to a quality grade, and change that at 2500, and 5000 thereafter (hey whats the std interval anyway? 10k?)
does that sound a bit excessive?

[Shorty]

Keep them ideas coming. I messed up my turbo, don`t want to mess up my engine too:) Might be a good idea to have a spare though;)

[Paul Woods]

i use a 25,000 rpm pneumatic dremel with a wire brush head,it cleans the block and head faces to a mirror shine without doing any damage......goggles are a must though,ive often had little javelins sticking out of my forehead,rather painful! It should be said ive got a huge compressor powering said tool,it consumes a shitload of air.

[Marksman]

Paul, what sort of wire brush do you use? I've shied away from the steel ones and used the bronze type which of course take longer. Are you saying it's OK to use a steel brush on an alloy head?

Owen.

[Paul Woods]

ive never had any probs using a steel dremel brush but you have to be delicate with it,mine spins so quickly it polishes the surface more than anything,but i wouldnt hold it in one spot for too long!

[Marksman]

Fairy snuff! Was a tad worried about the long line of TB-ers outside your workshop door when you arrived for work on Monday morning all wanting you to replace the heads they'd knackered up over the weekend... :slap:

I'll have a gentle try on my next head I think.

Ta,

Owen.

[Jaemus]

lol, thanks for the advice guys

i massacred one steel "dremel" brand brush, per valve cover, trying to clean them. theyre $10 a pop and i cant find them any cheaper... but it should hopefully last a bit longer if i try it on the head and block faces :)

[OlberJ]

So what's the deal, keep going till the pattern is gone, that means it's clean?

Still got a chequered effect on mine at the moment, it's light but i can still see it.

[Jiff Lemon]

had the same with mine - Have a peruse through the thread and you'll see.

As long as its clean I'd say not to worry - the gasket will take up minor imperfections once its torqued down

[OlberJ]

Top answer Jeff, cheers.

I've read your's about 10 times, keep getting stuck in fits of laughter at your standing in bay shot though. lol

[OlberJ]

Can't see it anywhere in your thread Jiff.

Whaddya use to clean the sump with, WD40, Parts cleaner, water, more oil?

[lodgeman]

petrol or degreaser is a good cleaner, try and stay away from water cleaners as they stay in the engine and mix with the oil and you know what happens then!!!!:hand:

[OlberJ]

Aye, thought maybe clean it and then dry it out but i'll give it a bash with petrol probably.

Brake and parts cleaner is a degreaser, can i use that ok?

[lodgeman]

yep that will be fine mate :thumbsup: