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nads1978
25-02-2015, 20:59
The bolt on the rear of the crossmember, trailing arm thingie that is pictured, should that hit straight out? I think the bush sleeve has rusted onto the bolt.
Failing that, to remove the rod-end on the hub, once the nut is off, should that hit out, is it tapered?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/02/257.jpg

nads1978
25-02-2015, 21:00
And this one!
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/02/258.jpg

nads1978
26-02-2015, 08:51
Anyone? Help!

Phaeton
26-02-2015, 10:05
They are bitches to get out or at least mine was, I completely fucked up my crossmember getting mine out. You can removed the crossmember by undoing the 4 bolts 2 at each side. The bolts rust into the sleeve, they also don't turn as the big washer thing is slotted onto the bolt, to get my arm out I ended up getting the angry grinder onto it. Good luck & start searching for a replacement cross member.

nads1978
26-02-2015, 10:20
Doh! as I suspected.
On the other end of that suspension bar, the 'rod-end' type joint (part of hub assy), should that come undone with a knock, is it just a taper-lock affair?

Phaeton
26-02-2015, 10:41
Yep just like a tackrod end

cdwood2010
26-02-2015, 11:03
That looks like a twatty design. Its probably welded itself into the bush.

Maybe a fret saw if you can cut through the bolt, or soak it in WD40 and get a bigger hammer.

c.

Phaeton
26-02-2015, 17:00
I've been thinking about this whilst driving around Welsh Wales today & came up with the same conclusion Chris.

Looking at the parts sheet the Bolt, Camber Adjust 48190-32010 8.20, then depending if it's Left or Right the Cam, Camber Adjust, Left 48190-32010 12.69 or Right 48196-32040 12.69 how the plate is more the the plate with a bolt god knows. But either way, doing it again I would cut the bolt, then either soak in plusgas/wd40 if the bush is still good or knock out & replace with a polybush. These prices are a bit out of date but gives you an idea, either way if you screw the subframe it's going to cost 50-100 for a 2nd hand one.

thomp1983
26-02-2015, 19:27
Is the subframe removable as it is now? If so put the bolts in a press they will give.

If not is the bush a rubber bush with metal inner and outer? If it is and you can get a replacement burn it out, it's dirty and horrible but it will take 10 minutes to burn the rubber away, the heat will help unbond the sleeve and more importantly with the rubber removed the force you hit the bolt with will act on it instead of being absorbed by the mounting

nads1978
26-02-2015, 19:37
Got the cross-member off now thanks guys, I removed the rod-end joints on the other end of those rear bars. They are still in the cross member, but now it's on the work bench I'm not worried about it. I'll mostly be getting medieval on it with blowtorch, Sawzall and some blunt instruments!

Just managed to free the 1MZ, and it's on a trolley under the car, next job; gearbox removal, clutch/fly replacement, rocker gaskets etc etc!

thomp1983
26-02-2015, 19:43
If you've got it off take it to a local garage it won't cost more than 10 to have them pressed out then you can clean the bolts up and reuse them and use the saved beer tokens on new bits elsewhere

Phaeton
26-02-2015, 19:44
Can you take pictures of the engine mountings, it's probably dreamland for me but love a V6 in mine

cdwood2010
26-02-2015, 19:51
Also LUK N/A clutch FTW! Unless you're going upgraded etc.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?20314-LUK-Clutches-The-Low-Down&highlight=luk+clutches

c.

nads1978
26-02-2015, 22:09
If you've got it off take it to a local garage it won't cost more than 10 to have them pressed out then you can clean the bolts up and reuse them and use the saved beer tokens on new bits elsewhere
I'll try first :)


Can you take pictures of the engine mountings, it's probably dreamland for me but love a V6 in mine
I can, and will soon.



Also LUK N/A clutch FTW! Unless you're going upgraded etc.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?20314-LUK-Clutches-The-Low-Down&highlight=luk+clutches

c.

Noted, thanks :)

Phaeton
26-02-2015, 22:13
If you've got it off take it to a local garage it won't cost more than 10 to have them pressed out then you can clean the bolts up and reuse them and use the saved beer tokens on new bits elsewhere
Not sure that will work you can't get the press close enough to the bolt head so chances are you will probably bend the frame. Cutting the bolt or burning out is the best way

nads1978
27-02-2015, 09:58
I've been thinking about this whilst driving around Welsh Wales today & came up with the same conclusion Chris.

Looking at the parts sheet the Bolt, Camber Adjust 48190-32010 8.20, then depending if it's Left or Right the Cam, Camber Adjust, Left 48190-32010 12.69 or Right 48196-32040 12.69 how the plate is more the the plate with a bolt god knows. But either way, doing it again I would cut the bolt, then either soak in plusgas/wd40 if the bush is still good or knock out & replace with a polybush. These prices are a bit out of date but gives you an idea, either way if you screw the subframe it's going to cost 50-100 for a 2nd hand one.

Thanks for the part numbers, that is a great help. Is there an online parts catalogue, or free/cheap software catalogue?

Phaeton
27-02-2015, 12:25
I've just uploaded the parts PDF to the download section, not sure of it's origins I stole it from somewhere else.

nads1978
27-02-2015, 19:16
Okay chaps, where can I get a set of polyurethane bushes. I can see them on ebay for ~290, for a full set for the Mk3, is there anywhere else anyone can recommend?


I've just uploaded the parts PDF to the download section, not sure of it's origins I stole it from somewhere else.
Thanks, I'll have a gander!

Phaeton
27-02-2015, 20:03
I bought
2x http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231069802478?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
1x http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201257692339?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
1x http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191472602972?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Didn't bother with the rollbar as figured that was easy at a point later on.

nads1978
28-02-2015, 11:31
Can you take pictures of the engine mountings, it's probably dreamland for me but love a V6 in mine

I'll get some better pics when they have been cleaned up and painted.

In order (front at front, left at left etc.)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/02/301.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/02/302.jpg

nads1978
08-03-2015, 13:18
I've just uploaded the parts PDF to the download section, not sure of it's origins I stole it from somewhere else.

Anyone got a parts catalogue for the 1MZ?

nads1978
29-03-2015, 13:20
I'll post my method, just in case anyone else wants to try it!

Drill out the bolt head, this has to be done at an angle, so you need to guess/judge there the shank of the bolt is. The idea is to hit the centre of the bolt where it passes the slot in the cross member, being careful not to open up the slot!

Clamp it down...
2927

Start drilling, judge the angle...
2929

Enlarge the hole to about the bolt shank size...
2930

Shear off the bolt head, fasten other side if necessary...
2931

That was more accurate than I had hoped for!
2933

(Other side of bush) I cut this from inside, with the Sawzall, it wouldn't fit the other side of the bush.
2928

Now to remove the bush. With fire. Lots of fire.
2926

Phaeton
29-03-2015, 14:31
Well done nice neat method

nads1978
31-03-2015, 17:57
I noticed the exhaust was very close to the crossmember, so thought I'd put some air around it....

Before:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/03/351.jpg

After:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/03/352.jpg

cdwood2010
01-04-2015, 13:30
Nice, very neat.

I like your problem solving approach, that kind of thing goes down well round here. To many people give up way too easy.

:)

Phaeton
01-04-2015, 14:17
Template of the cut out's might be a good thing, in case anyone local is lucky enough to find a pot of gold

nads1978
01-04-2015, 16:20
Don't worry Alan, I can easily make a template with it fitted to the car. However, I'll photo it with the tape measure in shot.

nads1978
10-04-2015, 19:16
A coating of Kurust on the welded seams

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/04/148.jpg

nads1978
10-04-2015, 19:19
Then seam sealer.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/04/149.jpg



Then blowtorch to heat the crossmember, and boiling water to melt the underseal. Fill the cross member with 700ml, swill it around, and let it dry.
The inside should be weather proof, the outside will follow.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/04/150.jpg

cdwood2010
10-04-2015, 19:53
Loving your work. :)

nads1978
12-04-2015, 22:14
Thanks :)

And then...
A red oxide coat.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/04/201.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2015/04/202.jpg