PDA

View Full Version : SRT's 2GR Swap



SRT4@DAB
22-03-2013, 04:30
I know I started a introduction thread a couple of days back. I view that as more of just saying hiya! Not by any means a full on introduction.

Let me first bring everyone here up to date on when my swap was started, the original concept and where it is now and why.

**I will probably need to edit this since I have been up since 2 am local time and its currently almost 11pm** sorry for any typos in advance!

2 Years ago I publicly announced I was going to start this swap. My intentions then are different then they are now. Some because of research others because of life. I purchased my Mr2 Roadster knowing I wanted to do this swap before I had even heard of Blitzo's not to mention Gouky had not even built his then. I bought the car 5 years ago roughly and it was in need of some loving care. Blitzo basically told me it can be done but was not in much communication. So I started out driven the car and planning the project. The Evora was still code named Eagle here in the States and much of it was still Hush Hush. Then the big announcement of the 2GR mated to a 6 speed gearbox. Being Human I wanted to go down the path of least resistance so I decided I would build the drive train like Lotus. So I started saving money and making contact on Ebay.co.uk with breakers for parts I needed that were not sold in the USA.


I purchased brand new items from lotus to start the swap. These are no longer going to be used but I want to make sure no one else goes down this path with out knowing someone already tried.
Starter adapter and engine adapter
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Adaptor/Forum_Sized/2197.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Adaptor/Forum_Sized/2199.jpg
Standard Evora Flywheel
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/clutchparts/Forum/027.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/clutchparts/Forum/030.jpg
Throw out bearing adapter
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/clutchparts/Forum/039.jpg
Gearbox
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/gearbox%20002.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/gearbox%20004.jpg

I was pretty sure I was going to be able to use all of those parts. However after having my son then getting a case of viral meningitis my project fund started to dry up a tad. Ok a lot. All of those bits were not bought at the same time as I was having to find part numbers search wait for a nice person at the Lotus dealership to order them and await them to arrive from being made. The gearbox I found someone who didnt want to rape me on price in the UK and also was very fair on shipping so that was a quick process.


The engine from a local yard here in Florida. I drove the hour to Orlando to pick it up and was very very excited all the way there as it was still in the Avalon. To much of My surprise I was allowed out in the yard as they used a forklift to bring the car around to have me make inspect the engine. It looked great I told them yes I'll take it.
so they unbolted it and they started snatching it out of the donor. Then one of the workers noticed the engine was being held in to the car and decided to help get it out faster and yes you guested it cut the harness.
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/002.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/005.jpg
Not a major set back but just couple hundred bucks.

The avalon gave me many parts. Here are just a couple of pictures of them

Drive By Wire throttle pedal
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/007.jpg
immobilizer
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/012.jpg

I then test fit the items together.
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/gearbox%20007.jpg

alright mate the fit together!! :)


The car then was getting prepped to start the swap.

http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/img_0464.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/img_0465.jpg


I bought a new RAV4 ECU from Toyota
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/ECM/Forum/ecu%20001.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/ECM/Forum/ecu%20013.jpg

which meant I no longer had a 5 plug harness need to I bought a 60 pin plug from a local yard.
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/60pinplug04.jpg

there was some clearance issues with the gearbox and engine fitting unlike the MKII I was going to need to make some room.

http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/3%20-%20small.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/1 -small.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/2%20-%20small.jpg

a little bit of heat was used and a bit of "massaging" metal was done


http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/4%20-%20small.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/5%20-%20small.jpg


More to be continued tomorrow.

cdwood2010
22-03-2013, 07:37
Now that sir, is a build thread!

:)

Loving it.

Looking forward to reading the next instalment when you've caught up on some sleep?

Chris.

Goldy
22-03-2013, 14:22
Nice start..... Really looking forward to the next installment, it's a real cliffhanger!

Will he? Won't he?

snowtigger
22-03-2013, 14:46
I would be interested in how you got the six speed to work and if you have part numbers for the conversion parts or even know some one that could make them?
A few of us over here would be gagging for a six speed conversion.

SRT4@DAB
23-03-2013, 01:53
Tigg's the 6 spd is on hold right now. I sold mine off since they are uncommon here but I will be working on getting another. Another MR2 2GR driver has it and will being doing some more R&D on some solutions.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Sorry if some of this information is a bit redundant from other threads or even this one since I am playing catch up on the forum
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

So after I message the metal on the side box beams they looked something like

http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/8%20-%20small.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/7%20-%20small.jpg


The black marks are from eyeballing it and seeing that I may need to do just a touch more.

I then mounted the engine in the car using a awfully made bracket.
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/376s.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/381s.jpg
Even though I had bought Gouky's I was trying to make a bolt in solution for the MKIII guys. (This ended up not happening and I bought a MKII mount) However, there is another person up in the Northern Central USA named FUE who is currently designing a bolt in mount.

With the EA60 gearbox and my mount I wanted to know ground clearance.

http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/433s.jpg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Swap_Process/Forum/438s.jpg

Now that the engine was in the car for the time being I started on the wiring.

So I took the 60 Pin A9 Connector and a Rav4 wiring Diagram and got the following information

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg
A9
Small Connector
1 BATT
2 +B2
3 + B
10 CANH
11 CANL
13 SPD
14 STSW
15 TACH
16 TC
24 W
28 IGSW
29 IMO
30 VPMP
31 E02
32 ELS1
33 ELS2
34 MREL
35 ST1-
36 STP
40 IMI
41 ACCR
43 RFC
46 STA
48 FPR
49 MPMP
52 FC
55 VPA
56 VPA2
57 VCPA
58 EPA
59 VCP2
60 EPA

not pictured here yet is the B30 Connector

Large Engine Harness Connector
B30-1
B30-2 P B26-6 PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION Switch
B30-3 DSL B32-10 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-4 S4 B32-3 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-5
B30-6 SR B32-9 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-7
B30-8 SLT- B32-8 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-9 SLT+ B32-2 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-10 SL1+ B32-6 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-11 SL1- B32-13 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-12
B30-13
B30-14 SL3+ B32-4 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-15 SL3- B32-11 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-16 STAR
B30-17 GE01
B30-18 M- B3-1 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
B30-19 M+ B3-2 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
B30-20 HA2A AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR BANK 2 SENOR 1
B30-21 E05 GROUND
B30-22 HA1A AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR BANK 1 SENOR 1 Shielded
B30-23 E04 GROUND
B30-24
B30-25 N B26-9 Park/Neutral Position Switch
B30-26 R B26-1 Park/Neutral Position Switch
B30-27 D B26-7 Park/Neutral Position Switch
B30-28
B30-29
B30-30
B30-31
B30-32 ALT
B30-33
B30-34
B30-35 IGT6 IGNITION COIL NO. 6
B30-36 IGT5 IGNITION COIL NO. 5
B30-37 IGT4 IGNITION COIL NO. 4
B30-38 IGT3 IGNITION COIL NO. 3
B30-39 IGT2 IGNITION COIL NO. 2
B30-40 IGT1 IGNITION COIL NO. 1
B30-41 +BM
B30-42 E02 B4-GROUND
B30-43 E01 B3-GROUND
B30-44 HT2B HEATED O2 BANK 2 SENSOR 2
B30-45 HT1B HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 2
B30-46 E03 B3-GROUND
B30-47 2 B26-8 PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION Switch
B30-48 3 B26-3 PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION Switch
B30-49 OE2- CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE EXHAUST SIDE LH
B30-50 OE2+ CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE EXHAUST SIDE LH
B30-51 OC2- CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE INTAKE SIDE LH
B30-52 OC2+ CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE INTAKE SIDE LH
B30-53
B30-54
B30-55 OE1- CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE RH EXHAUST
B30-56 OE1+ CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE RH EXHAUST
B30-57 OC1- CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE RH INTAKE
B30-58 OC1+ CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE RH INTAKE
B30-59
B30-60
B30-61 AICV VSV (AIR INTAKE CONTROL)
B30-62 ACIS VSV
B30-63 PRG VSV PURGE
B30-64 EV2+ VVT SENSOR BANK 2 EXHAUST SIDE
B30-65 EV2- VVT SENSOR BANK 2 EXHAUST SIDE
B30-66
B30-67 VCV1 VVT SENSOR BANK 1 EXHAUST SIDE
B30-68 EV1- VVT SENSOR BANK 1 EXHAUST SIDE
B30-69 EV1+ VVT SENSOR BANK 1 EXHAUST SIDE
B30-70
B30-71
B30-72
B30-73 THA B1-1 MASS AIR FLOW METER
B30-74 VG B1-5 MASS AIR FLOW METER
B30-75 E2G B1-4 MASS AIR FLOW METER
B30-76 THW ENGINE COOLANT TEMP. SENOR
B30-77 VTA2 B3-4 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
B30-78 VCTA1 B3-6 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
B30-79 ETA B3-3 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
B30-80 VCTA B3-5 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
B30-81 E1 GROUND
B30-82 ME01 GROUND
B30-83
B30-84 #50 B51-1 FUEL INJECTOR NO. 5
B30-85 #30 B52-1 FUEL INJECTOR NO. 3
B30-86 #10 B53-1 FUEL INJECTOR NO. 1
B30-87 VV2+ VVT SENSOR BANK 2 INTAKE SIDE
B30-88 VV2- VVT SENSOR BANK 2 INTAKE SIDE
B30-89 VV1- VVT SENSOR BANK 1 INTAKE SIDE
B30-90 VV1+ VVT SENSOR BANK 1 INTAKE SIDE
B30-91
B30-92
B30-93 EKNK KNOCK SENSOR BANK 1
B30-94 KNK1 KNOCK SENSOR BANK 1
B30-95
B30-96
B30-97 ETHW ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENOR
B30-98 ETHA B1-2 MASS AIR FLOW METER
B30-99
B30-100 NT- B28-1 Transmission Rev. Sensor (turbine)
B30-101 NT+ B28-2 Transmission Rev. Senor (turbine)
B30-102 A2A- AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR BANK 2 SENSOR 1
B30-103 A2A+ AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR BANK 2 SENSOR 1
B30-104 IGF1 IGNITION COILS
B30-105
B30-106
B30-107 #60 B35 FUEL INJECTOR NO. 6
B30-108 #40 B36 FUEL INJECTOR NO. 4
B30-109 #20 B37 FUEL INJECTOR NO. 2
B30-110 NE+ CRANK POSTION SENSOR
B30-111 NE- CRANK POSTION SENSOR
B30-112 OX2B HEATED O2 BANK 2 SENSOR 2
B30-113 EX2B HEATED O2 BANK 2 SENSOR 2
B30-114 OX1B HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR BANK 1 SENSOR 2
B30-115 EX1B HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR BANK 1 SENSOR 2
B30-116 EKN2 KNOCK CONTROL SENOR SENSOR BANK 2
B30-117 KNK2 KNOCK CONTROL SENOR SENSOR BANK 2
B30-118
B30-119
B30-120 NSW PARK NEUTRUAL POSITION SWITCH
B30-121 PPMP CANISTER PUMP MODULE
B30-122 THO1 B32-1 ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED TRANSMISSION SOLENOID
B30-123 NC- B24-1 Transmission Rev. Sensor (Counter Gear)
B30-124 NC+ B24-2 Transmission Rev. Sensor (Counter Gear)
B30-125 A1A- AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR BANK 1 SENSOR 1
B30-126 A1A+ AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR BANK 1 SENSOR 1

The A4 connector AKA DBW, Accelerator Position Sensor, Gas Pedal etc... seems to always use the same wiring no matter which vehicle it comes from
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg
Pin / Signal / Which connector and pin

6 VPA to A9 55
3 VPA2 to A9 56
4 VCPA to A9 57
5 EPA to A958
1 VCP2 to A9 59
2 EPA2 to A9 60

The E13 Connector Data Link Connector aka OBD2 port
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/011.jpg
Pin / Signal / Which connector and pin

4 CG
5 SG
6 CANH
7 SIL
9 TAC to A9 15
12 TS
13TC to A9 16
14 CANL
16 BAT


I then took apart the standard cable throttle pedal. I then modified the bracket by drilling out a spot weld cutting a 90 degree wedge out to fold it over. I then re-welded the bracket with a reinforced piece. Having to tweak it and bend it this gave me a good rough draft of how to mount the pedal (A4 connector) Ideally the pedal needs to be moved towards the drivers side by about 9 to 13mm. I might have someone draw up a pretty cad drawing later.

http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/Forum/img_0441.jpg

I then bought a ZZW30 wiring diagram book somewhere in the process of the last few steps.

Determined the following

ZZW30 Wiring so far...

ComboMeter (speedo, tach, etc..)
C10-1 FROM HEATER RELAY
C10-2 TO UNLOCK WARING
C10-3
C10-4 ABS ECU
C10-5 SPD E3-22 V-W Split to power steering ecu P7-2
C10-6 FROM "PANEL" FUSE
C10-7 C10-8 DOME LIGHT
C10-9 IG2 I10-6 IGNITION SWITCH
C10-10 TO CENTER AIRBAG ASSEMBLY
C10-11 GROUNDED (IH)
C10-12 GROUNDED (IF)
C10-13 FROM HAZARD SWITCH OR TURN SIGN
C10-14 FROM HAZARD SWITCH OR TURN SIGN
C10-15
C10-16
C10-17 TO ECU
C10-18
C10-19
C10-20 A4-9 PASSENGER SEAT WARNING LIGHT
C10-21
C10-22 ILLUMINATION LIGHT

C11-1
C11-2 R6-4 RHEOSTAT
C11-3 F12-1 FUEL SENDER
C11-4 MPX2 E2-6
C11-5 7.5 A I/UP SEE PAGE 46
C11-6 B9-2 B-W BRAKE FLUID LEVEL WARNING
C11-7 7.5 A RADIO SEE PAGE 46
C11-8 GROUND (IE)
C11-9 F12-3 FUEL SENDER
C11-10 7.5 A GAUGE SEE PAGE 46
C11-11 TO POWER STEERING ECU
C11-12 TO ABS ECU
C11-13 FROM AC SWITCH
C11-14 GROUND (IE)
C11-15 TO BUCKLE SW AND TENSION REDUCER RH
C11-16 TO BUCKLE SW AND TENSION REDUCER (LH)
C11-17 TO DOOR COURTESY LIGHT (LH)
C11-18 TO DOOR COURTESY LIGHT (RH)

C12-1 A5-1 AC THERMOSTATOR
C12-2 F12-2 FUEL SENDER
C12-3 R6-5 REHOSTAT
C12-4 A5-2 AC THERMOSTATOR
C12-5 MPX1 E3-10
C12-6 TACH E3-27
C12-7
C12-8
C12-9 FROM A/C SWITCH
C12-10 FROM A/C SWITCH


D1 Data Link OBD2
D1-1
D1-2
D1-3
D1-4 CG OBD2 GROUND
D1-5 SG OBD2 GROUND
D1-6 A/B FROM CENTER AIRBAG SENSOR ASSEMBLY
D1-7 SIL E2-11 OBD2
D1-8
D1-9
D1-10
D1-11
D1-12
D1-13 TC E3-5 P-B OBD2
D1-14 TS POWER STEERING & ABS ECU
D1-15
D1-16 BAT OBD2

ECU Plug/Pin out
E2
E2-1 Batt B
E2-2
E2-3 FC 2 C/OPN RELAY
E2-4 PTNK V3-2 VAPOR PRESSURE SENSOR
E2-5
E2-6 MPX2 C11-4
E2-7
E2-8 IGSM IG2-3
E2-9
E2-10
E2-11 SIL D1-7 OBD2
E2-12 ACMG FROM A/C COMP RELAY
E2-13
E2-14
E2-15 C10-17
E2-16 +B
E2-17
E2-18
E2-19
E2-20
E2-21
E2-22

SRT4@DAB
23-03-2013, 01:53
E3
E3-1
E3-2
E3-3
E3-4 FROM FAN RELAY NO. 2
E3-5 TC D1-13 OBD2
E3-6 STP STOP LIGHT SW
E3-7
E3-8 F/PS S6-1 SHORT CONNECTOR (SRS NO.2)
E3-9
E3-10
E3-11 STA ST-2 ST 7.5A
E3-12
E3-13
E3-14
E3-15
E3-16 ABS A7-18 ABS ECU
E3-17
E3-18 PRE FROM A/C DUAL PRESSURE SWITCH
E3-19
E3-20
E3-21 MREL EFI-1 EFI RELAY
E3-22 SPD C10-5 COMBO METER
E3-23 TBP V4-1 VAPOR CANISTER (CLOSED VALVE)
E3-24
E3-25
E3-26
E3-27 TACH C12-6 COMBO METER
E3-28 LCKI FROM A/C MAGNETIC CLUTCH & LOCK SENSOR

E4
E4-1 EVG M1 MASS AIR FLOW METER (E2G)
E4-2 VC T1-1 V3-3 VCC VAPOR PRESSURE SENSOR
E4-3 HT1A H1-1 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 1
E4-4 EVP1 V2-1 VSV (EVAP)
E4-5 HT2A H3-1 HEATED O2 BANK 2 SENOR 1
E4-6 E03 GROUNDED
E4-7
E4-8 HT1B H2-1 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 2
E4-9 OX1B H2-3 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 2
E4-10 RL G1-1 GENERATOR
E4-11 VG M1-3 V MASS AIR FLOW METER
E4-12 OX1A H1-3 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 1
E4-13
E4-14 THW E1-2 ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR
E4-15 G2 C1-1 CAMSHAFT SENSOR
E4-16 NE+ C3-1 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
E4-17 E1 GROUNDED
E4-18 E2 SPLICED
E4-19
E4-20
E4-21 OX2A H3-3 HEATED O2 SENSOR BANK 2 SENSOR 1
E4-22 THA M1-4 MASS AIR FLOW METER
E4-23 VTA T1-3 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
E4-24 NE- C3-2 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

E-5
E5-1 #10 I6-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 1
E5-2 #20 I7-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 2
E5-3 #30 I8-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 3
E5-4 #40 I9-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 4
E5-5
E5-6
E5-7
E5-8
E5-9
E5-10 IGT1 I2-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 1
E5-11 IGT2 I3-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 2
E5-12 IGT3 I4-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 3
E5-13 IGT4 I5-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 4
E5-14
E5-15
E5-16
E5-17 CCV V1-1 CANISTER CLOSED VALVE
E5-18 RSO L1-1 DUTY
E5-19
E5-20
E5-21 E01 GROUNDED
E5-22 MOPS O1-1 OIL PRESSURE SW
E5-23 OCV- C2-2 CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE
E5-24 OCV+ C2-1 CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE
E5-25 IGF I2,I3,I4,I5 PIN 2
E5-26
E5-27 KNK1 K1-1 KNOCK SENSOR
E5-28
E5-29
E5-30
E5-31 E02 GROUNDED

MR2 Roadster Signal Rav4 Signal
D1................................. E13
D1-1..............................E-13-1
D1-2..............................E-13-2
D1-3..............................E-13-3
D1-4.........CG.................E-13-4 ........CG
D1-5.........SG.................E-13-5 ........SG
D1-6 ........A/B................E-13-6.........CANH
D1-7.........SIL ................E-13-7.........SIL
D1-8..............................E-13-8
D1-9..............................E-13-9..........TAC
D1-10.............................E-13-10
D1-11.............................E-13-11
D1-12.............................E-13-12 .......TS
D1-13...........TC...............E-13-13........TC
D1-14...........TS...............E-13-14........CANL
D1-15..............................E-13-15
D1-16...........BATT............E-13-16........BATT

So the MR2 does not have CanH and CanL I have been talking with another forum member and through some discussions we believe it is just named differently.

TAC and TS also are not in the MR2 Spyder either so I am just going to add these pins.


The main reason I am discussing the wiring is I have convinced myself to try to make the car run with one ecu, making the dash and all the other equipment work just like it came from the factory. Utilizing just one OBD2 port. This is the reason why I am making such a detailed listing of the harness information.

I eventually want to make a list of which plug and pin needs to be spliced to the 2GR harness plug and pin to make everything copacetic.


Another forum member (from a different forum) I discovered something about the same time while on the phone. The MR2 C12-6 (Plug-Pin) is signal TACH. Which will need to be wired in a loop from C12-6 to E-13-9 to A9-15. (E-13 is part of the spyder harness maybe able to be completely removed)

We also identified C11-3 (MPX2) & C12-5 (MPX1) as CANH and CANL I will need to look into this further to find out which one is which.


The some trouble came up A9 style connect I had purchased for this swap came out of a 2010 Camry 2AR-fe. The connector is physically the same but the pin out is ONLY about 50% the same as the Rav 4 Harness. Almost one day was spent making a Tyco pin remover which needed to be made from a piece of steel that was 1mm wide by 10mm long by tall. The tip of the tool needed to be .2 mm so the last 3 mm had to ground down from 1mm to .2mm which is a slope of what 78 or something like that.

So I took apart the harness and they would not come out, Broke the tool and I was mad so I made another then I talking with someone the mention the little piece of plastic and said you know that a lock, and then I remembered reading about that but in a hurry I had forgotten about it. Spent the rest of the night moving some of the wires. The wires I did not need to more were the A4 (drive by wire), CanH, CanL, and the Battery wires, then there was an equal amount that I needed to have a pin that only had a rubber plug.

I metered the plug out to make sure all the wires have continuity and checking to make sure they are properly seated back into the plug.I ran the wires to the pedal and OBD2. I soldered the DBW wires from the ECU to the pedal. I routed the wires through the interior of the car in the center console area. I used adel clamps to hold the wires where I want.

I took apart the A9 connector, use a tool I made to remove the pins and relocate the pins to where I needed them. None of my wire colors match so I labeled each wire to which pin it went to and the signal it was.

I made my OBD2 in the MKIII configured to that of the Rav4, this required me to splice/solder some wires together as well as moving a pin.

Pin's 1-3,8,10-11, &15 are not used.
The following pins and signals are the same.
Pin 4 -=-=- CG
Pin 5 -=-=- SG
Pin 7 -=-=- SIL
Pin 13 -=-=- TC
Pin 16 -=-=- BATT

Pin 6 A/B I spliced in CANH from A9-10

Pin 9 I added TACH. To do this I harvested a pin and wire from a spare OBD connector.

Pin 12 I added a pin in the same method from the spare connector then spliced it into the TS signal. (green and red wire) I cut the wire and simply soldered on the new lead.

Pin 14 I spliced in CANL from A9-11


These wires were cut and soldered to a new wire I ran across the rear firewall. these wires shared signals and were almost the exact same circuit laid out. The letters in parenthesis are for the Mr2 harness. Which to my knowledge all years are the same, unlike the Rav4.
A9-1 -=-=-=-=-=-=- to E2-1 (B-Y) Batt
A9-2 & 3 -=-=-=-=- to BC2-5 ( +B(added +B2))
A9-28 -=-=-=-=-=- to E2-8 (B-R) IGSW
A9-34 -=-=-=-=-=- to E3-21 (GR) MREL
A9-52 -=-=-=-=-=- to E2-3 (G-R) FC
A9-24 -=-=-=-=-=- to E2-15 (YR) W (which converts on the Rav4 to EFI. The Rav4 ECU is not 100% happy so I borrowed a Camry ECU which was a little bit more happy but not as much as I would have liked.

About this time I got deathly ill with a case of viral meningitis. Spending almost 3 weeks out and lots of cash spent on hospital bills, we can talk about health care in a different thread. :)

I had the car for sale and many offers for the car with the hard top for much less than 3 thounsand USD. Which was a joke to me. So I bought a MKII NA auto that I was just going to swap the 2GR into MKII and call it done. However, after talking with a few people they motivated me to get back in the game with the Spyder. The EA60 with no starter mount and funky gear linkage is out. I will come back to this another day. I bought a 93+ E153 with LSD and will do the axles using MKII LSD Turbo inner stubs and 1990 v6 Camry Outter bits. The Flywheel / clutch from lotus is also gone. I bought a 9.5 Lbs flywheel and APR bolts from Forward Motion Performance.

My NEW flywheel
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/03/247.jpg

My New Pressure plate
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/03/248.jpg

The new double sprung clutch disc
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/03/249.jpg

The inner stubs I bought no outters as of yet
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/03/250.jpg

cdwood2010
23-03-2013, 11:54
Wow. Outstanding work. I'm reading this on my iPhone but I'm going to read it again on my PC!

:)

Chris.

gavsdavs
23-03-2013, 13:11
This is awesome. Lovely pieces of hardware :)

snowtigger
23-03-2013, 13:19
Lovely looking job subscribed for the next installments .

SRT4@DAB
23-03-2013, 13:44
Were there enough pictures?

That was condensed down the next installments will not be anywhere as long.

Preview if next events
Tapping the block for the addition bolt
Fitting the flywheel,clutch and pressure plate
Mount the E153 gearbox to the 2GR

Jiff Lemon
23-03-2013, 15:45
You'll learn soon enough; There's NEVER enough pictures! :photos:

Epic thread so far, I'm loving that flywheel!

SRT4@DAB
23-03-2013, 15:59
It is quite brilliant I plan on getting an assembly weight on it for reference purpose only. It truly is a work of art and its a certified unit. I still plan on buying a ballistic sheet to cut to fit on the rear firewall. That is just because later I want to be able to track the car at driver education events at some events here.

SRT4@DAB
17-11-2013, 13:19
My phone is being stubborn with tapatalk today. So apologies in advance. This is a slow build but it's being done in spare time.

Went to the local junkyard (self service breaker) bought 1991 Camry v6 complete axels and cv's for about 15. These will be fitted to the MKII inner axle stubs. They measure out properly and convert the tripod style to rzeppa-style. I also took the abs ring from the Spyder and fitted them to the new (to me) axle.

I purchased a 275 litre per hour fuel pump from deatschwerks. Fitted the pump to the fuel tank. While fitting the fuel pump, I also replaced the fuel filter with a new Beck Arnley 043-3005 purchased from eBay.


The 65c has a barbed feed supply. which required use of a round file on the plastic grommet that was on the OEM pump. A few minutes later it was fixed. If you look at the picture you can see the barbs.
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Fuel/image-5a.jpeg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Fuel/image-6a.jpeg
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Fuel/image-7a.jpeg

I also purchased the A/C compressor, alternator and starter for the engine. In case I forgot to put that in the thread. Bought another rear crossmember to modify recently too.

I have fitted the clutch and flywheel to the 2gr as well. To secure the flywheel I used APR bolts and red lock tight.

Grenade
17-11-2013, 14:41
You are doing a fantastic job. Great build, great thread- it seems like you're well versed in the swap data. One of those MKIII's with a 2gr? Man- I gotta get out more...

cdwood2010
17-11-2013, 14:58
Just re-read your thread again. Very interesting stuff.

We are at a similar place i think, although I'm building a 2GR Mk2. I have some notes on the 2 plug ecu, and looking at some of the pinouts you've listed they seem to differ slightly. My 2GR is from a 2007 Rav4, so it may be the subtle nuances between vehicles, but probably worth checking. I've also identified all the pins for the DLC (OBD2) i think. We will find out this afternoon as I'm putting all the wiring together!

Happy to share my notes and findings if they would be of use?

Also if you're fitting a new ECU (ouch btw) then you do not need the immobiliser. Paul Woods builds a 2GR with a new ECU and he has confirmed that on first power up the ECU will imprint immob / non-immob depending on what it sees connected. If you connect the immob, you may need to reprogram the key / antenna / immob / ecu configuration, and that can be a real pain as i have recently found out.

Keep those pics coming! We love pics!

:)

Chris.

SRT4@DAB
17-11-2013, 15:13
There are a few of us in the states that are doing this swap. Fue is making a bracket for the engine to mount to the standard roadster chassis.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/04/334.jpg



How ever I am using the MKII mount for now. This may cause a issue for me later down the road but I have a grinder that can unistall the welds :)

I may also go to the vipec ECU.

SRT4@DAB
17-11-2013, 15:35
Just re-read your thread again. Very interesting stuff.

We are at a similar place i think, although I'm building a 2GR Mk2. I have some notes on the 2 plug ecu, and looking at some of the pinouts you've listed they seem to differ slightly. My 2GR is from a 2007 Rav4, so it may be the subtle nuances between vehicles, but probably worth checking. I've also identified all the pins for the DLC (OBD2) i think. We will find out this afternoon as I'm putting all the wiring together!


It will be interesting to see what you have paired together.



Happy to share my notes and findings if they would be of use?

Sure no problem. All mine came from the electrical wiring diagram from Toyota.



Also if you're fitting a new ECU (ouch btw) then you do not need the immobiliser. Paul Woods builds a 2GR with a new ECU and he has confirmed that on first power up the ECU will imprint immob / non-immob depending on what it sees connected. If you connect the immob, you may need to reprogram the key / antenna / immob / ecu configuration, and that can be a real pain as i have recently found out.

Mine was a non immob ecu same as my car.



Keep those pics coming! We love pics!

:)

Chris.

cdwood2010
17-11-2013, 15:54
PM me an email address and i can send you what i have.

I've done a few 3VZ swaps, but this is my first 2GR swap, and i have found a lot of my wiring notes for the 3VZ very useful too.

:)

Chris.

SRT4@DAB
17-11-2013, 20:38
updated with better pictures and a link

SRT4@DAB
18-11-2013, 16:35
Mr. Wood

Thanks for the info. I'll merge into my spreadsheet. did you finish your wiring last night?

cdwood2010
18-11-2013, 18:53
Very welcome, hope it proves of use.

And no, I reckon I'm about halfway through, corrected myself in a couple of places, then had a light bulb moment on a couple of things like the stray alternator wires.

It's very much a hobby (obsession almost) playing with car related things. I spend a lot of time out and about, just got back from a 7hr round trip to Wales and the last thing on my mind is sitting in a cold garage!

Thank god I'm not trying to earn a living with it, I'd starve.

:)

SRT4@DAB
18-11-2013, 20:13
It's been cold here too! High is like 26 Celsius. If it was my only way of making money I would be starving along with the boss damn I mean wife and out child.

cdwood2010
18-11-2013, 20:43
26 degrees. Not sure how you cope. It's already down to about 2c at night.....

http://www.express.co.uk/news/uk/443462/Winter-2013-expected-to-be-worst-since-1947-with-heavy-and-persistent-snow-forecast-for-UK

NoobieMRS
18-11-2013, 23:00
WHen you start on the wires let me know. I will try to find and help as much on the vipec. I've been busy with school.

NoobieMRS
18-11-2013, 23:30
Here is what I was talking about.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?21890-Converting-to-run-fuel-return&p=285718&highlight=#post285718

SRT4@DAB
18-11-2013, 23:51
Good info. I will think about doing this.

SRT4@DAB
23-01-2014, 16:48
So I have gotten back into the mood to continue to work on the swap. I have decided before I go any further I need to make an access panel in the firewall. I think it will be an oval shape. I also was decided I needed to be the first 2GR with a WideBody in my part of the world. So I ordered a APR kit. It arrives next monday via a freight carrier.

SRT4@DAB
26-01-2014, 22:13
Building the axles was straight forward. However after assembling them one has more slack than I would like to have. The other was too tight and would not allow the CV to move in any direction. I tired to rotated the CV to take it apart and it was jammed. Ended up using some force and brook the inner bearing race. So a new one will be ordered.

I also removed the e153 carrier bracket from the stub axle and replaced it with the carrier axle that comes standard with the 2GR.

cdwood2010
26-01-2014, 23:27
Bloody hell. On the Mk2's we used a replacement part, as neither the 2GR one or an E153 one would fit.

c.

SRT4@DAB
27-01-2014, 00:48
I did some rough measure so I could fit it in the morning currently at work. However it appeared that it would work.

SRT4@DAB
27-01-2014, 00:51
Noob , or Fue as I know him by says it will most likely not fit by a few mm. Tomorrow I will check but it appeared to be correct earlier.

SRT4@DAB
30-01-2014, 01:52
http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/nobolt2GRbracket.jpg

http://streetroadandtrack.com/images/Donorparts/e153axle2grbracket.jpg
that lower right one is going to be a real P.I.T.A. to get in properly.

dgh938peg
30-01-2014, 13:27
If the other two bolts are loose and you cannot get the bolt in (which it looks like they are) then take the carrier off and check you can get a bolt in the thread anyway (possibly the wrong bolt or the thread in the block is screwy. If the bolt DOES go in ok then I'd probably put a slightly larger drill through the carrier; 10mm bolts I'd drill it out to 12mm happily. :thumbsup:

SRT4@DAB
30-01-2014, 14:21
Its the right bolt, the trouble is that the axle / CV plate radius is in the way I may have to bolt it in then slide the axle in...

dgh938peg
30-01-2014, 15:05
I see what you mean - in which case I concur with your solution.

snowtigger
30-01-2014, 20:04
Thought about a stud and nut arrangement?
Then you can plop it over the stud like a locating dowel and bolt the other two up.

cdwood2010
30-01-2014, 23:15
I may have to bolt it in then slide the axle in...

That's how I put mine together.

C.

NoobieMRS
17-03-2014, 15:52
That axle is a bitch. Every time I take it off, I find it easier with little tricks of knocking it in and out of the carrier. I should had made the plate to use the left two bolt holes and the upper right bolt hole. it would had been easier and save time.