orange peel in my clear coat

[nik]

im having serious problems with the finish on a couple of carbon skinned bits (rear lights and number plate panel). im wet sanding as far as i dare go before hitting the carbon layer then using lacquer in a can to put a few layers on, but fuck me no matter how hard i try with different thicknesses etc the finish is shit! tiny micro surface bubbles and bigger orange peel dimples.
it all went well on the scoop and dont think im doing anything different.
any advice?

i could avoid using lacquer all together but the amount of hand polishing to get a glassy finish just isnt worth it imo..give me prepreg any day!!

[headcase]

Sure its not silcone nik have u tried lots of dry coats then put a wet one on it

[Paul Woods]

Is the surface panel wiped totally clean before laquer? Also try mixing your laquer 2:1:1 , i find slightly more thinner content sprayed at a lower pressure and lighter coats leaves no peel at all.

If you still have problems it's probably gun settings, too much pressure or too much product to air.

You could try a single pack laquer as well but that will need buffing.

Hang on, did you say laquer in a can? Forget the above, i can't get a good finish with that stuff at all, time to invest in a little 50ltr compressor and gun matey!

[nik]

yeah im thinking i managed a good finish on the smaller scoop but the larger flatter objects are pushing it with a can.
i will sand it all off again and have a think about other options.

[kalsingh1]

Canned stuff is rubbish, i've never managed to get a good finish with a can.
The only way to get a professional finish is with a small compressor and a gun. First practice on a scrap piece, then lacquer yours.

[BSR]

It could be that the solvent in the spray can is causing degassing from the carbon fibre.
All of the Jaguar and Aston Martin carbon fibre bits we do at work have to be laquered and baked once to seal them, rubbed back and then lacquered again to get a smooth finish without gassing.

[geoffp]

As previous canned lacquer is ok for small area repairs and never really gives the gloss like a spray gun.
When painting you need to set-up the variables.
Temperature - get your work environment to a minimum 15 degrees - that affects paint / lacquer flow on the sprayed part.
Humidity - depending on your heat source this can reduce the amount of moisture in the air.
Reasonable spray gun 1.4 minimum.
Set the pressure according to the manufacturers instructions for starters - spray pattern fully wide and paint volume screw fully out.
Make sure your paint / lacquer mix is as per instructions - if the environment is too cold add more of the correct thinner - Its the solids in the mix that cause orange peel as well as spray technique.
Practice spray patterns - remember each sweep should be 50% over the last and try to be consistent with the speed of sweep. Look down the spray sweep so you can see if its too wet or going on dry - micro lumpy
A reasonable compressor that can consistently supply the air you need.
If its not working as expected then only change one setting at a time to see the difference. When it does work make a note of all the variables as set then the next time you should have no problems.
Hope that helps
TTFN - Geoff