View Full Version : 3MZ-FE Resolve's 3MZ-FE swap
The 3MZ arrived last friday so it's finally time to make my own swap thread :icon_biggrin:
Since the 3MZ swap hasn't been done much (only found a 3MZ powered celica) i'm trying to get some regular updates in this thread and share all the information about this swap. When the swap's done i'le try to make some kind of 3MZFE swap guide.
you can read my introduction over here: Link (http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?18807-Greetings-from-Holland)
Currently i'm gathering all parts, study the wiring diagram's and making a planning for this project.
The actual engine swap is happening in week 30 and 33. In week 31 and 32 i'le have a swap break to go diving in egypt :icon_mrgreen:.
I've got my partslist almost complete. I still have to desice some things like airco or no airco, fidanza or OEM, Walbro or OEM... Most of these things depend on the availible budget. I'le order the more crucial parts first and if the budged allows it i'le order the options like a fidanza etc.
Well this is the part list i've made so far:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/GroteFoto-TQI7NFIC.jpg
I hope i've got most of the crucial parts ordered by the end of may. I realy want to do as much ahead of the actual swap as possible. That way i hope i'm saving some time while swapping. If i forgot somthing i'd realy like to hear it so i can add it to the list.
I've to resize some pictures tonight. Then i'le post the pictures of the engine and my MR2. In the mean time you can watch them in my online photo gallery Link (http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=7UICCJF8) and Link (http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=7V3HI6H8)
Thank you for reading, and i'le keep you posted :thumbsup:
cdwood2010
16-05-2011, 13:21
Subscribed!
or
Geabonneerd!
:o)
Chris.
Well i'le hope you'le enjoy your abonnement {_8D)
I've also encountered my first problem.
The 3MZ uses a total of four o2 sensors. Each bank has one sensor before the cat and one afther the cat.
Since i'm not going to use a cat and probally won't buy those post cat o2 sensors i've finally got my first problem :D
I've got none of the o2 sensors with the engine, as far as i know those sensors and an alternator are the only things i miss on the engine.
If i remember it correctly, the signal of the o2 sensors infront of the cat generate a unstable signal wich makes the ECU adjust the air / fuel ratio.
Under normal conditions the o2 sensors afther the cat give a quite stable signal of 0.45v - 0.5v. When the cat is worn or somthing else is wrong wich makes the o2 sensor's signal go all over the place an engine check light will burn on the dash but the engine won't go in limp mode or take more fuel.
Does the 3MZ also only use the 2nd o2 sensors to check the cat? and will it probally only trow up some OBDII codes and an engine check light when the o2 sensors are not connected?
If toyota actually uses them to adjust the air / fuel ratio then i'le probally have to fake a 0.45v - 0.5v signal wich would make the ECU think everything's just normal.
The 1MZ only uses a total of 2 o2 sensors right? and the 2GR will probally use 4?
snowtigger
16-05-2011, 17:25
I think the 2gr has only 2 in my exhaust manifolds and that's it, the difference is you can't fit the other v6 sensors to the 2gr as I think there a more modern design so faster acting, as the breakers supplied only 1 proper 2gr and one 3vz and one bank of the engine ran ok the other was like a tractor, wrong wave form apparently on an engine diagnostic system it was obvious.
Okey thank you for the awnser! It's probally a diffrent design or a diffrent signal then. I thought the 3VZ and 1MZ/3MZ sensor's where also diffrent, MZ was a screw in and the VZ was a bolt on if i remember it correctly. That would give every engine family it's own type of sensor.
I hope the o2 sensors behind the cat are just there to check the cat and won't give any problemens when they arn't installed. Else i've to fake the signal or somthing.
I guess i'le just try withouth those sensors and see what kind of codes the OBDII will give me and if it will go limp style.
Just a thought, can you not double up the signal, I.e send one sensor to two inputs on the ECU?
We need some pictures on this thread!
Well this is my MR2 where it's all going to happen :icon_biggrin:
I own the car for about 8 months now, and it's a real pleasure to drive! Only the engine is quite worn so i've to add a liter of oil about every 500-700 kilometer. That's also one of the main reasons for the swap.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/189.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/190.jpg
And this is the 2005 3MZ-FE out of a Sienna. The ECU is a remanufactured non-immobilizer ECU from a Sienna. The Camry, Solara and highlander ECU will give some extra horses and torque but i couldn't find one wich came of a non immobilizer car.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/191.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/192.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/193.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/194.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/195.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/196.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/197.jpg
decipherer
17-05-2011, 11:37
Subscribed :)
Good luck with this! I'm pretty confident you won't need the secondary o2 sensors. They're definitely not necessary in the 2GR and I can't imagine the 3MZ being different there.
Engine looks very nice btw!
First i'le just try to run the engine withouth the post cat o2 sensors. If i realy need them then i'le probally just fake a stable 0.45v - 0.5v signal. My guess is that the signal of the pre cat sensors is probally to unstable (pendels up and down the voltage range of the sensor). But it's definitily worty a try when i run into problems!
Currently i'm studying the wiring diagrams. When i brought the engine i thought that allmost all things where there, but now i've discovered quite a few bits n pieces i still need.
As far as i know this ar the parts i still need:
- 2 ECU plugs (the two right ones (Plug A+B))
- Complete throttle body including the throttle control motor / throttle position sensor
- Accelerator pedal with the pedal position sensor
- MAF sensor
- o2 sensors (bank 1 sensor 1 + bank 2 sensor 1)
I still have to check if i've got the vsv's. I don't know what they look like yet :blabla:
And there are about 10/15 connectors wich i havn't found in the wiring diagrams yet.
Well if i research the wiring stuff thoroughly at this moment it will be lots easyer when the actual soldering begins. :freak3:
Today i did some labeling on the engine's wiring harnes. I've located most of the sensors and connectors wich i need on the engine. There still are some sensors and connectors wich i havn't identified on the wiring diagrams so i've still got some researching to do on this wiring harnes. And when that's all clear, i've to adjust the wiring diagrams to make it fit on the existing wires and connectors in the MR2.
Yesterday i also brought some stuff wich was missing on the engine.
- Throttle body with sensor and motor
- MAF sensor
- two missing ECU plugs
Electro things i still need are:
- 4-wire wideband A/F sensors
- Accelerator pedal with the pedal position sensor
Here are some pictures off the engine at this moment.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/217.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/218.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/219.jpg
(all pictures can be viewed here: Link (http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=FHR8VQQN))
I'm trying to complete the wiring scheme's for the conversion next week. Afther that i'le have to take a look at the vacuum diagrams, but i guess that won't be to hard.
I'm also going to order a fidanza flywheel and a with a Celica GT4 pressure plate, Caldina ST215 friction plate and MR2 N/A pressure bearing. And maby i'm going to buy a engine stand so i can work a bit easier on the engine.
I also added a nice table of all the parts i need. I'le update it regular when i've ordered somthing or got a price / part number or any other info.
decipherer
20-05-2011, 07:26
Just some things that come to mind:
Have you got the correct bolts for the flywheel? The ones that are holding the flex plate might be too short
Can you use 1mz exhaust headers? It might be easier to buy them than to fabricate
I guess you will be using a turbo gearbox? Have you got everything you need for that?
I would definitely invest in an upgraded fuel pump. I'm not sure what the max is for the stock pump, but you'd want to make real sure it's enough for your engine. Plus changing it while the engine is out is relatively easy.
You might need another belt if you ditch the aircon?
Just some things that come to mind:
Have you got the correct bolts for the flywheel? The ones that are holding the flex plate might be too short
Can you use 1mz exhaust headers? It might be easier to buy them than to fabricate
I guess you will be using a turbo gearbox? Have you got everything you need for that?
I would definitely invest in an upgraded fuel pump. I'm not sure what the max is for the stock pump, but you'd want to make real sure it's enough for your engine. Plus changing it while the engine is out is relatively easy.
You might need another belt if you ditch the aircon?
Hey, thank you for thinking along!
- I have to look if ARP has some flywheel bolts, but i'le check that when the flywheel is in.
- The 3MZ can use exactly the same headers as the 1MZ.
I already mailed brad bedell today if he still had some headers for sale. And he still has them, 300USD a pair + about 60USD shipping. I also read somthing about the OBX headers, but they have to be modified and arn't great quality. Are there any other headers availible fot he 1MZ?
I'm not realy sure what i want with the exhaust system so i'm going to concider the options. I like the idea of giving each bank it's own system becouse it will make the exhaust system less complex then with a equal length Y pipe design.
- I'le be using an N/A box for about half a year. Then i'm planning to switch to an EA6x or EB6x gearbox. Depending on the price of them and if the EA's starter position has already been sorted.
- I thought the stock fuel pump did flow enough for a stock V6. But your right, it's a pain in the *%&#@ to change them when the engine is in. So it would be better to change it when the engine's out.
- I don't have the belt, airo pump and alternator. When i've got an alternator i'le mesure the correct belt length and order it.
And the "to buy" list gets longer and longer... Looking for a sponsor :icon_mrgreen:
snowtigger
20-05-2011, 18:25
A stock 3sge pump will cope but not at max as the flow rate is quite weedy, the turbo fuel pump is a cheap upgrade and a lot quite than a 255 walbro pump the only top range one after that is the supra twin turbo pump but I can't remember if it's the jap or Brit one that flows more.
I've got the turbo pump on the 2gr and it works great feeds it enough juice , that is untill turbo or superchargers come into play next year with a six speed box and maybe 4 litres lol.
four litres with a nice n fat supercharger is just brutal..... you could use two walbro's each for one bank :blabla:
Afther reading some other projects i realised that i shouldn't want to take the budged route for this
swap. I just thought it was stupid to not go for a lightweight flywheel, upgraded fuel pump, ACT
clutch and some other bits. The MR2 runs fine so i'm not in a hurry to do the swap, but when i'm
going to do it i want to do it right the first time.
That means the swap will be delayed some time so i can get all the proper bits i need.
Now I've finally got a four day weekend and the only obligation at the moment is my sisters birthday on saterday. My girlfriend has to work the next two days so i've got a lot of time to do some work on the engine and wiring diagrams.
The wiring is all checked and labeled and i've already received the missing MAF sensor, ECU plugs and throttle body from the states. The only sensor's i still need are the A/F ratio sensors and the throttle pedal with the sensor.
Now i'le have to make some kind of diagram how to connect the 3MZ's wiring to the existing wiring of the MR2.
Now i've got a question for the 1MZ owners.
Last time i looked at the engine i realised it didn't have a oil level sensor. There are castings in the sump where the oil level sensor has to be so i guess an oil level sensor can be fitted when i drill the mounting holes and the hole where the sensor goes in.
Does anyone know if all of the the 1MZ engines have the same sump and if they have a oil level sensor mounted? Ifso it'le probally be my best bet to source a 1MZ sensor and get some measurements done to check if they'le fit.
I did some painting on the bank 1 valve cover today.
First i sanded it a bit to roughen it up and cleaned it afther sanding.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/60.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/61.jpg
Afther that i painted them red with Motip engine paint. The paint is heat resistant to 150 degrees celcius, wich i think would be enough for the valve covers and inlet.
When the weather allows it i'm also going to paint the bank 2 cover tomorrow.
The engine color scheme's going to be red with the silver of the engine block and stainless braided wires.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/62.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/63.jpg
This week and next week i expect some parts to come in:
- Engine mount from woodsport
- Fidanza flywheel
- Accelerator pedal with sensor
- Fuel pressure regulator
I realy can't wait untill all i've got all the parts and actually can put the engine in!
I like that colour tone, looks very thick, much better then the regular spray cans i used. Ill have to repaint my cam covers when the alu breathers are welded on, now i know which paint to use :)
ps: about the 1mz oil level sensor, might be wise to start a seperate thread about that, those sort of specific questions sometimes get lost in build threads.. And it makes it easier for other member to search for that particular information.
Must admid i used more than half a spray can (four thin layers) only for one cover. Think i'le need two cans for two covers and the inlet.
But the paint covers all the casting flaws and stuff quite well and the color looks great to me!
Thankyou for the advice, next time i'le just start a seperate thread.
I've found out that some of the 3MZ engines are supplied with a oil level sensor. Also found the part number for them but they're quite expensive and only ad some luxiory, nothing critical for the swap. Maby i'le use them when i can find a cheap used one, otherwise i'le just continue without it.
Here are some updates on the parts and to do list.
Some new goodies came in last week:
- Engine mount from Woodsport. (direct fit on the 3MZ engine!!)
- Walbro GS341 fuel pump
- Fuel pressure regulator
- 4 grooved brake disks (have some new OEM spec pads laying around)
- 15 literes coolant
- 8 literes full synthetic 5W30 oil
Things i'm still waiting on:
- Fidanza flywheel (takes ages to come from the states)
- Accelerator pedal (also from the states)
- Celica GT4 pressure plate (ordered today)
- MR2 N/A pressure release bearing (ordered today)
- MR2 fuel filter (ordered today)
- MR2 coolant temperature sensor (ordered today, don't know if this one works with the 3MZ??)
Stuff i'm going to order this week:
- Coolant hoses
- Heater hoses
- Fuel hoses
- Some 6AN couplings for the fuel system
- Stainless T-bolt clamps
- Air/Fuel ratio sensors
Stuff to do this week:
- Check valve clearances
- make a list of all toyota parts i still need so i can order them all at once
- Paint the air inlet red
- a lot of minor things i need to check and measure...
Will post some pics of the engine and parts tomorrow!
cdwood2010
18-06-2011, 19:06
Exciting stoof!
Nice to see someone spending money on their build!
Keep those pics coming !
Chris.
Sent from my spackytard 'spell it how you like" iPhone
Checking the valves is a pita, but worth the effort, i assume the 3mz also has 24 valves?
As for the fittings, ive bought a lot for my build (over a 1000 dollars and still need more :) ) from autofittings (http://stores.ebay.com/autofittings). They are based in Hongkong but ship free to NL (for fittings, not ss hoses etc), and they are a LOT cheaper then getting them in NL.
The 3MZ also has 24 valves. I do hope that most of the valve shims are right, but i'le just have to check that.
And thanks for the tip about autofittings!! i made a list from all the connectors and hoses i needed and ended up getting like 10 diffrent ebay shops to get all the items for a decent price. Autofittings do have all the items i need for a very decent price!!
I'le be ordering the SS braided hoses at the TTFittings ebay shop.
I've put my engine on a engine stand so i could drive it in and out the shed when i wanted to do some work on it.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/251.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/252.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/253.jpg
( the red in these picture's isn't the actual color of the covers, in the previous pics of the covers the color is spot on)
I've got some new zinc plated grooved brake rotor's in, will be using them with OEM spec pads.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/254.jpg
And a Walbro GSS-341 and a fuel pressure regulator:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/06/255.jpg
Hopefully the flywheel and accelerator pedal do come in this week.
Afther waitint about a month i finally mailed ultrarev parts to ask if they knew why it did take this long.
The same day i got a mail back with some bad news. It seems the flywheel got lost while shipping :(
They immediately offered me a refund or a new flywheel. Only at this moment they where out of stock and it could take 2-3 weeks until they have them in stock again.
Since it'l probally takes me two more months to gather all the other parts i chose to get another flywheel shipped when they're in stock again.
Nice and fast responce from ultrarev parts!
-1 for the USPS :(
Clarky_X
21-06-2011, 17:20
Upgrade the pads to Mintex M1144 or Ferrodo DS2500. I had M1144 on my last Mk1 with std discs and braided hoses and AP Racing DOT 5.1 fluid and the brakes were great. Pad material makes the most difference. I've got drilled and grooved discs on the current Mk1 with std pads and the brakes are just OK, nowt special.
Just my personal experience. I was advised to go this way by a mate who does a lot of track days. He said you can warp an expensive disc just as easy as a stock one so prefers to spend the money on pads rather than discs.
BR
Stephen
Since i had some brand new OEM spec pads laying around i just used those with the disks. I didn't realy brought this disks as an upgrade but more becouse my old disks and pads where realy worn.
When i would drive a lot in the hills or did some track days now and then i'd have used EBC yellowstuff, Ferrodo DS2500 (hard to find over here) or some potterfield pads. But for my personal driving style the OEM pads and disks where good enough.
If i want to do some track days in the future i defenately agree that i've to upgrade the pads and brake hoses and maby even the brake cylinders for turbo ones.
I just measured the valve clearance on the engine and i'm quite happy with the results!!
The allowed valve clearances are:
0,15 - 0,25 mm on the intake valves
0,25 - 0,35 mm on the exhaust valves
These are the measured clearances:
pulley RH bank out 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3
side RH bank in 0,2 0,2 0,25 0,2 0,25 0,2
of the LH bank in 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,25 0,2 0,2
engine LH bank out 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,4 0,3 0,3
Must say i don't have a 0.35 feeler gauge. The .30 mm feeler gauge went under them quite easily so i guess they are somwhere around .35 . If they where on the tight side of the allowed tolerance i'd defenately re measure them with a .35 feeler gauge. But they're maximum .005 out of tolerance on the wide side, so when the valve seats wear it'le tighten up the clearance.
I'm considering to flow the heads myselve and when i'm going to do that i'le have to take the heads of anyway. So then i can just replace the 0,40 and remeasure the other ones with a 0,35 mm feeler gauge.
I'm just thinking of smoothing out the casting marks and reshape the area around the valve guides a bit. Nothing radical, just some smooth touch up.
aussiemr2
23-06-2011, 08:44
Hi mate, I hope you know that Aeromotive regulator is a fake, albeit a good one and if you replace the rubber diaghram inside it with a genuine one you should be ok
How do I know?
Well I have exactly the same kit but mine didnt come with the logo on it and I knew what I was buying
Also looks like your fuel pump is a Walbro copy, make sure it doesnt have plastic gears on the suction side as they do not flow nearly as much as the genuine
I didn't even knew there was a "real" one. Just thought it was some unbranded FPR wich they put some fancy name on. But thx for the info, i'le have a look at the diaghram inside it. Did you replace the diaghram? ifso where did you get a "real" one?
The fuel pump is a walbro for sure.
aussiemr2
24-06-2011, 13:55
I didn't even knew there was a "real" one. Just thought it was some unbranded FPR wich they put some fancy name on. But thx for the info, i'le have a look at the diaghram inside it. Did you replace the diaghram? ifso where did you get a "real" one?
The fuel pump is a walbro for sure.
I got the genuine diaghram from summit auto parts for the Aeromotive A1000, wasnt that expensive, I read stories of the copies leaking fuel into the vacuum line and the obvious danger that poses, this article may help
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?59563-XS-copy-VS-Aeromotives-FPR-(lots-of-pics-inside)&
Sorry my bad if the pump is genuine, I was just looking at the box
Thx for pointing me out to that article! I'le replace the giaghram with a genuine one for sure.
bigpitty1
06-09-2011, 14:17
Just subscribing to your build, really keen to see if Mr Woods mount fits all nicely with the MZ engines
It's not officially confirmed by Mr. Woods. But i'm realy convinced it'le also work perfectly for the 3MZ. If i remember correctly the 1MZ and 3MZ also use the same mounts on the 2001-2006 Camry's.
It's been realy quiet here for a while so here's a realy quick update:
- Currently doing some porting on the heads (already ready to reassemble them)
- Ordered all the crucial parts for the swap (only custom ACT clutch still has to come in) and going for some nice extra's now like a helical LSD and the S54 5th gear mod.
- I'm also working out some ideas, drawings and theory's for "some special project" to get busy with when the stock 3MZ gets boring :icon_mrgreen:
Some pics and part list updates are comming soon!
Paul Woods
06-09-2011, 19:28
If i can just add that Resolve is the only person i have supplied the mount to on a trial basis, he's going to check if it fits and if there is a difference he's going to give me the necessary adjustments i need to make. I will then make an MZ version of my mount and send him one for further testing.
Once that has been established to work 100% i will then either supply my current 3vz mount as a 1mz/3mz mount or supply a whole new MZ version.
We just need to be totally sure.
bigpitty1
07-09-2011, 11:39
Once that has been established to work 100% i will then either supply my current 3vz mount as a 1mz/3mz mount or supply a whole new MZ version.
We just need to be totally sure.
Put me down for one on the list once its MZ certified, my build hasn't gone into engine in stage yet, once I move my mr2 into my new shed and take the 3SGTE out I will start my own build thread but that may be a few months away.
Resolve I can't wait to see the 3MZ running, I'm quite interested to see how much different the power curve is between the 1MZ and the torque difference,
I'm also very intrested in it's performance. Realisticly i don't think i would see a lot more horses than a 1MZ VVTi. The 1MZ vvti is rated upto 220HP and the 3MZ is rated upto 225HP. But i do expect to see a bit more torque, atleast i realy hope so.
The MR2 is my daily drive so i can't start the swap before my vacation starts at Wk. 51. So that would still be 3 months of waiting. Atleast i've got allmost all the parts and i can start shopping for some fun parts.
I added the up to date partlist on my first post. The total cost of the project will be an estimated 6,5-7K euro's when everything's done. I havn't saved money on a lot of stuff becouse i just want to do it right the first time, so it can be done a lot cheaper. Also living in The Netherlands and swapping a US only engine won't help your budget!
bigpitty1
07-09-2011, 14:53
My build is going snail pace anyway lol, all my money is going into building my house, my engine won't be going in any time soon, I got to get the block bored out, get the 22R conrods machined to fit and get the bottom end balanced, on my pay that will probably happen at the end of the year.
How long is your vacation? I hope you don't run into any issues putting the 3MZ in, you might need to invest in another daily driver just in case haha, I wish you good luck on your build :fingersx:
Brought quite some stuff last months:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/10.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/11.jpg
Custom ACT 6 pad sprung hub friction plate. 236mm outher diameter with a 20 spline center for the s54 transmission.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/12.jpg
Fidanza flywheel
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/13.jpg
ACT heavy duty pressure plate
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/14.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/15.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/16.jpg
My build is going snail pace anyway lol, all my money is going into building my house, my engine won't be going in any time soon, I got to get the block bored out, get the 22R conrods machined to fit and get the bottom end balanced, on my pay that will probably happen at the end of the year.
How long is your vacation? I hope you don't run into any issues putting the 3MZ in, you might need to invest in another daily driver just in case haha, I wish you good luck on your build :fingersx:
Bored out for a first overbore (0.25mm) or bored out the TB way (3mm or more)? :icon_biggrin:
I've got 2,5 weeks of vacation. I realy hope that's enough for the swap.
I'm also planning to do some work upfront like swapping the longer 5th gears and LSD, making a mount for the accelerator pedal and some other stuff i can do upfront.
I've got another daily driver... a moped. but i think i don't like driving 2 hours a day in -5 degrees celcius so i realy hope those 2,5 weaks are enough :eusa_pray:
MMaddict
05-10-2011, 17:27
Resolve,
If you fix an extra gaugecluster I might be able to solder/adjust yours at the same time with mine.
I can't freaking wait till i can finally swap in December! 75 Days 1 hour and 36 minutes left :icon_mrgreen:
Here's a list if things to do before December:
- replace the timing belt, idlers, tentioner, waterpump
- Make some freaking tool to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt (heavy air tools 0 - 1 crankshaft pulley bolt)
- Reassemble the engine
- Swap the 5th gear and LSD
- Make a accelerator pedal mount
- Weld AN12 bungs on my valve covers for some increased venting and repaint the covers
- Paint my lower and upper intake manifold
- Source some shop to weld a custom stainless exhaust for me
- Do my homework on the wiring (loved to have a 3VZ lol)
Probally forgot a lot of other stuff i still have to do.....
Now for what i did last couple of weeks:
Did a mild port job on the heads. Doesn't look like a pro job but i'm happy with it for the first try. I think the short side radius on both ports where horrible, so those are smoothed. Most of the casting marks are grinded down and the humps around the valve guides are lowered down.
The lower intake manifold is also smoothed a bit. Didn't use the die grinder for that one, just some sanding paper.
When everthing was done i put it all in the dishwasher to give it a propper clean :icon_mrgreen: Worked great on the aluminium, only the steel had some surface rust wich i could just whipe off.
I did use some new bolts and gaskets while reassembling the heads. But i did use the old headgaskets, they're MLS and still looked fine so i hope that doesn't turn out the worng way.
here are some pics of the progress:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/23.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/24.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/25.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/26.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/27.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/28.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/29.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/30.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/31.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/32.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/33.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/34.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/35.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/36.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/37.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/38.jpg
bigpitty1
07-10-2011, 16:22
Bored out for a first overbore (0.25mm) or bored out the TB way (3mm or more)? :icon_biggrin:
I'm only going for a overbore of 0.5mm, cylinders 2 and 3 the bores are in really bad shape, before I got my 1MZ it was sitting at the wreckers for months and those 2 cylinders were full of water, the piston I'm ordering are wiseco 88mm diameter.
Hopefully this weekend I get the 3SGTE out, I attempted it last weekend but got very slack and spent most of the weekend sleeping in but I did manage to move my MR2 in my new shed with some of my furniture, so I guess this means now once I do get the 3S out I can then go lay on my couch for a well earned snooze for my efforts :icon_biggrin:
Those parts you got there look so good, I think I need to do some shopping now :thumbsup:
For your crank pulley bolt problem: at work I fill my rattle gun up with 5w30 oil, I mean hold the trigger and fill it til its full, reconnect the air line and give it another go, works getting crank pulley bolts off 2JZ's and LS2 amd LS3 V8s, or you could just put 2 old flywheel bolts in, get someone to hold the lever bar and then you loosen the bolt with a breaker bar that should work too.
Keep the good work up mate, can't wait for your next update :icon_mrgreen:
snowtigger
07-10-2011, 20:58
it normaly takes an 8 foot breaker bar to dislodge that crank pulley bolt with 2 twenty stone blokes on it.
bigpitty1
08-10-2011, 16:31
you can also try a power bar with a really big heavy hammer, I've heard people snapping off the front of cranks with them but it hasn't happened to me yet, but I did miss hitting the power bar and smashed a big hole in my radiator top tank with the hammer on my aristo tho :icon_mad:
decipherer
09-10-2011, 07:52
Or you can borrow the tool I made for the 1MZ pulley which looks the same. I should still have it lying around somewhere
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/39.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/40.jpg
bigpitty1
09-10-2011, 13:38
thats pretty cool, probably could use that on the 3S, 5S, VZ and JZ,
dgh938peg
09-10-2011, 13:45
Agreed! ... I'll look to knock something up similar for install removal :)
MMaddict
09-10-2011, 19:30
Or you can borrow the tool I made for the 1MZ pulley which looks the same. I should still have it lying around somewhere
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/10/40.jpg
Hmmm, that engine looks familiar, Only I know it with out the pulley.
How is your progress on the 2gr?
Lol i made exactly the same tool last weekend :P
It's only been a while since i did some machinework. So i made some slight errors in the position of the holes wich need to be milled a bit wider now. When that's done i'le give it a try and hopefully my ratchet won't break :icon_mrgreen:
I already tried to fill the air gun with oil but it still didn't came loose.
thx for the offer! when my tool won't work or somthing i'le happily try it with yours!
dgh938peg
10-10-2011, 15:42
you should use a breaker bar on things like this rather than a ratchet - it's not designed for undoing FT stuff...
Mmmm you've got a point there :P i also wasn't very confident that it would hold up, so up to the hardware store tomorrow!
Does toyota use alternators with a 7 groove pulley for the 7 rib multibelts? (7PKxxxx belts)
My lightweight crank pulley has a 7 groove pattern but the 3MZ uses 6 rib belts.
So i can just trow a 6 rib belt on there, but i think the extra clamping force of a 7 rib belt can
come in handy when i'm going to supercharge. So if there's somthing out there that i can make
fit on the alternator i'm going for a 7 rib belt.
BTW 7 days until i start the swap!! :D
headcase
14-12-2011, 13:11
6 will be ok alot of cars are running more ribs on pullys then the belts to stop squeaky reno it was a mod you put a 5rib belt on 6rib pully lol
Paul Woods
14-12-2011, 18:13
Resolve, we think the 3vz mount may need modifying by 10mm outwards to align with your chassis mount, this has been confirmed on a 1mz swap, i have already made a new 1mz mount and sent it to Jeremy in Australia for verification. I have a strong suspicion that your 3mz will be exactly the same.
Worry not though, i have already made a 1mz jig from the new mount, so if you find yours is 10mm short of hitting the chassis mount i will rush one straight out to you.
Great to hear Paul!! I already saw that there where some slight alignment issues reported.
Are there any pictures of the alignment on that 1MZ?
Paul Woods
15-12-2011, 06:59
No there aren't any pics but Jeremy has taken good measurements. The alignment is perfect on all other axis, so height and fore/aft location is the same, just needed to sit 10mm nearer the chassis mount. As soon as you confirm your 3mz is the same and needs the extra 10mm i will make you another one. Also waiting for Jeremy to confirm the mount i've just sent him works 100% before selling the 1mz version to anyone.
I'le let you know when the engine goes in, wich is in about 1,5 week.
Currently i'm quadripple checking all stuf and making some last adjustments for the enlarged venting holes and lightweight crank pulley.
bigpitty1
16-12-2011, 12:59
Not long now :icon_mrgreen:, hope everything goes well for you and make sure to take lots of picys :thumbsup:
@bigpitty Don't worry, i'le make hundereds of pics :icon_biggrin:
Uploaded some pics last weekend:
Replaced the complete distribution set including water pump and hydraulic tentioner. The crank pulley was a real pain in the ass. Finally 1,5 meter tubing on the breaker bar and a UNP profile bolted to the pulley was enough to crack that nut.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/108.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/109.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/110.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/111.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/112.jpg
The crank venting is drilled to fit a new bigger AN12 connector for some increased crank venting.
This is done becouse i probally can't resist the temptation to boost this puppy. And i don't like blow by becouse of increased crankcase pressures.
Both the baffles inside the valve covers have been drilled out to clean the valve covers.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/113.jpg
(Going to use a 120 degrees connector on this cover)
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/114.jpg
(Going to use a 120 degrees connector on this cover)
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/115.jpg
The new lightweight crank pulley has a 7 rib pattern. Only the stub on the pulley is a bit shorter then the original. So to be safe i want the pulley to be all the way on the crankshaft instead of using some filling plates to align the pulley with the alternator.
So i ordered a 7 rib alternator pulley on ebay and machined it down so the belt would be very close to the alternator body to gain a few milimeters.
I also machined the fat bracket (wich the alternator is bolted to) down by about 11mm. That way i can align the alternator pulley with the crank pulley by filling up the gap between the alternator and the bracket it's been bolted to.
Some pics to clarify my rubish english :blabla:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/116.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/117.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/118.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/119.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/120.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/121.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/122.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/123.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/124.jpg
MMaddict
19-12-2011, 13:16
Hmmm, maybe I should have asked you this earlier, but did you get the Evap Tank that goes with the 3MZ?
Don't have the 3MZ evap canister. So it'le probally trow some code(s) for that one.
Or can i expect more problems when i don't have the evap canister?
MMaddict
19-12-2011, 21:22
I forgot what was said since I got the canister of mine.
And Cant find it true the search option on mr2.com
hopefully someone else can tell you. Anyway what I do remember is that you cant just put any evap in it, needthe one that went with your type of ecu.
Mmm maby i can just get a EVAP canister of a 2005 corolla, avensis or somthing.
MMaddict
20-12-2011, 16:19
I would ask it on MR2.com There alot stories about EVAP canisters...
ALso has to do with the right amount of connections etc...
There are some about 3MZ hybrids, not sure if that will be anygood to you.
As far as i know the hybrids are all 1MZ's with a 3MZ shortblock.
I know the part number fromt toyota: 77740-08020.
It look's somthing like this one, only the air linlet port (right one) has a build in CCV VSV.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/130.jpg
So i'le go to a breaker tomorrow to check if they've somthing laying around.
MMaddict
20-12-2011, 18:37
maybe gouky could help you out if you cant solve it with a europeanpart.
There are multiple of them on ebay for about 150 USD + shipping.
I'le try the dutch breaker first, if they don't have it i'le get one of ebay. But then it'le probally won't arrive in time.
But do i realy need one? The evap system also needs the vapor pressure sensor wich is ontop/inside the fuel tank.
What kind of codes can i expect when i'le just use the MR2 charcoal canister? and will the engine go in limp mode?
Do the 2GR or late 1MZ VVTI's need the charcoal canister and vapor pressure sensor?
BTW my 2,5 week holliday has just started!! so thursday the engine and fuel tank are going out along with some help from MMaddict! that will the the official start of the swap :jump:
Jason.MZW20
23-12-2011, 01:01
As far as i know the hybrids are all 1MZ's with a 3MZ shortblock.
I know the part number fromt toyota: 77740-08020.
It look's somthing like this one, only the air linlet port (right one) has a build in CCV VSV.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/130.jpg
So i'le go to a breaker tomorrow to check if they've somthing laying around.
The CCV (Canister Closed Valve) actually goes onto the stock airbox via a vacuum connection. It just closes off the fresh air line so the ECU can pressurize the EVAP canister and tank and test for a 0.020"/~5mm small leak. The VSV on that EVAP canister is the 2-way bypass VSV, which opens or closes the EVAP purge line, IIRC. You'd also need a Vapor Pressure Sensor, which can have its own line to the fuel tank by using one of the EVAP lines on the tank, or by teeing into either of the EVAP lines and routing it to the VPS. The VPS is mounted on the canister on some models (2-hose), or directly on the fuel tank on others (1-hose). The 2 EVAP lines from the MR2's tank are joined by the EVAP collector (a bar shaped piece). You can de-join the hoses and just use them directly as you see fit.
I blocked off the large vent port (upper right in the picture) on my EVAP system without codes. That goes to the fill-check valve or gasoline vapor recovery (while filling with petrol). I ran with a remote FCV, but petrol entered the canister while filling, and since it was PVC/ABS plastic, the petrol basically demolished the canister and leaked gasoline.
Thx for the info! i'm not sure yet what to do with the evap system. I think i'le just use the MR2 stock evap system wich will get me some OBD2 codes.
I started the swap yesterday, with some help of Mmaddict. Here are two pics of the work done jet, a full update will follow.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/150.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/151.jpg
MMaddict
23-12-2011, 21:31
Dont forget to mention there is a ferrari hidden in the first picture.
Toyota and ferrari side by side.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/152.jpg
ps. going to race vs the ferrari when the swap is doen :yelrotflmao:
snowtigger
24-12-2011, 02:28
That's nothing my cousin had a Lamborghini tractor in the barn lol not as much horsepower as a Diablo.
Damn, so much italian beauty's hidden in barns :icon_surprised:
I think this one has about 5,00 horses, so that will be a tough one to beat on the track.
bigpitty1
30-12-2011, 14:05
that is one sexy crank pulley, if you don't mind where did you get it from?, I acctually chipped mine removing it.
Also I don't think you'll set any OBD2 codes for the EVAP canister aswell, I was just planning on using the one on the MR2, I think the ECU pretty much only senses the VSV only. (but I could be wrong)
This is the one i brought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crank-Crankshaft-Underdrive-Engine-Pulley-Toyata-Carmy-Avalon-3-0-1MZ-FE-XV30-/120546946256?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c11286cd0
It's no where near the original crank pulley. Only good for 7 rib belt (6 rib could be fitted) and is positioned shorter to the block. So you'le need to reposition the alternator. You could also realign the pulley but that way it's only like 10mm on the crank wich i thought was a bit tricky.
MMaddict
18-01-2012, 17:12
Your engine is running, why isnt there an update already???! Comming over to show it to me is cool with me aswell. (AA)
Ain't comming over without an exhaust:eusa_naughty:
I'm to freaking bussy to update :icon_biggrin: I'le try to make a BIG update this weekend with plenty of pics!
As MMaddict states, the engine's running (freaky loud with headers only).
bigpitty1
21-01-2012, 09:24
How loud? :-P
Probably should put a vid up too haha, good to hear that its running, i guess that the conversion went smoothly, awesome job mate :-)
bigpitty1
12-02-2012, 13:45
Hows the build coming along mate? Haven't heard from you for a while, hope you are not running into problems with your build.
Goddamn i realy have to update this one!
Going to pick the car up tomorrow from the guy who made the exhaust.
It's a true dual exhaust like availible for the 350Z and 370Z. this one's used as a reference:
http://cms.skunk2.com/photo/g-514-4552cdeffa4fc815227295815f56cbe0e94bc868.jpg
I'le realy try to remember to update this tread!
Nice zorst! Any more pictures? Please!!!!!
OOhhhhh pretty :smile: Get that update up already, cant wait to hear what it sounds like!
Oooh that's gonna sound cranky..lol
bigpitty1
14-02-2012, 11:39
If it looks anything like that, I'm already impressed :cool:
Well i first have a question.
The engine's running but i still have a few problems to tackle.
The biggest problem at this moment is the gearbox :frown:
I took the S54 apart to change the diff for a helical limited slip and the 5th gear for a longer fifth gear.
Only when i had the stock diff out i couldn't get 1 bearing of the dif and was forced to put the stock diff in again. I just couldn't wait for toyota to provide me some new bearings and i couldn't find any used ones.
So the stock diff is still in and i changed the 5th gear for the longer version like described in pauls guide.
Only i have some major problems with the gear selection now. First time we tried to tow the car it was stuck in 2nd gear, but with some rocking on the car and the shifter it came out quite fast. Well we towed the car to the exhaust guy who made a exelent looking rather noisy exhaust for me. Now the car's home again and i was checking the gears and i could only get the car in 2nd, 4th and reverse. And when i put the car in 5th it won't come out anymore. I can double mesh the box by putting the shifter in 2nd or 4th but it doesn't disengage the reverse, even while the shifter does come out.
The 1, 3 and 5 can't be selected as the shifter won't go up, only sideways and down into 2, 4 and reverse.
Have i realy screwed up the box and does it need replacement or is there anything wich can be adjusted on the shifter cables or somthing? Or are there any other things i can check to make sure it's the tranny?
Hope anyone can give me some info
Sorry for my english but i was in a hurry when typing this :omg:
Paul has mentioned what you have described before..
It seems you have wrecked the gearbox,. and now need a new box..
Paul Woods
20-02-2012, 18:21
I'm afraid if you have stripped the box and now can't get 1st, 3rd or 5th there is a high probabilty you have done something wrong during assembly, it's so easy to get it wrong though so don't feel too bad. The only other thing i would check is your shifter linkages on the gearbox itself, pay special attention to the "gate" lever, that's the one with the square drive peg on the end of it that sits in the selector shaft groove.
If the square peg is missing you may not get all gears, or if that assembly is missing one of its bolts and the whole thing has pivoted on the one remaining bolt that too will stop you getting the top group of gears (1,3,5) or the bottom group (2,4,R) , so with you missing 3 gears all in the same "gate" i'd definately check the linkages and also the cables where they secure into the bracket, make sure the horseshoe clips are there and located properly.
Lastly, if there is nothing obvious, take the cables off the linkages and try to select gears manually by moving the selector by hand, it should be very easy to get all gears, if you can't then it looks like an internal issue.
I'm building these boxes on a regular basis now, so if you need a LSD/5th equipped S54 building let me know, best of luck, fingers are crossed for you.
bigpitty1
21-02-2012, 13:00
Since you tried fitting the LSD you would of had to split the box and maybe the ball bearing for a detent had fallen out, but I don't think your gearbox is permanently broken, its probably just a matter of pulling it apart and see whats going.
Also I'm not familiar with the S54 but on most manual gearboxes there bolts on the outside for the detents, if you take the bolt out there will be a spring behind it then a ball bearing, if there is no ball bearing there its probably fallen out when you split the box...
Paul Woods
21-02-2012, 13:38
The S series doesn't have external detents I'm afraid, the C series has though.
So... the tranny seems to be useless :(
I'm currently looking for a new tranny here in the netherlands to swap the basterd.
What's the easyest way of changing the tranny on these engines? to drop the complete engine or can the engine stay in place and change the tranny's with the engine hanging on an engine crane?
Thank you guys for the help! it would have been a much tougher road withouth this glorious info pit and all the help i've got on this way!
BTW i'm currently uploading some more pics so i can complete my MONSTER UPDATE :smile:
Paul Woods
22-02-2012, 19:00
I presume my above tests confirmed the trans has an internal issue and nothing you can fix on the outside?
You can change gearboxes without dropping the engine, just like a regular Mr2 gearbox change really.
Yes there's nothing to fix on the outside. Even with the shifting cables off i couldn't get it out of the reverse or into the 1, 3 or 5.
Trannyswap, it will be. As yoda said.
Hows the build coming along mate? Haven't heard from you for a while, hope you are not running into problems with your build.
Hey Big,
Luckily i've got myselve a camper so i can still go to my work etc. Otherwise i realy had a problem since the car still isn't drivable as you've read.
Main problem at this moment is the gearbox. That's going to be fixed by swapping a diffrent gearbox for it. When the car's up and running i can get the current gearbox rebuild with LSD and the longer fifth gear. That way i'le always have a spare box laying around.
When the gearbox's done i'le have to finish a lot of minor things like topping of coolant, mount heat shields, mount tupperware panels back under the car, etc.
So most of the work's done, only the gearbox and some minor things before i can finally drive it!
Ow and by the way, the exhaust sounds like a BIG monster!! Maby a bit to loud for my likings, but i can still get 2 cats or resonators infront of the mufflers or even get some longer mufflers.
Well i just made some pics of the exhaust (wich isn't easy in the dark :P)
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/278.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/279.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/280.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/281.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/282.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/283.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/284.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/285.jpg
It only seems quite a bit to loud for my likings. But i can still put 2 high flow cats infront of the mufflers or get some longer muffers to quiet it a bit.
But i'le first have to drive with it to be sure it's to loud and by how much.
bigpitty1
24-02-2012, 14:42
Thats real unlucky about the gearbox, the new one should go in a lil easier now that you pulled it out once already ;-) haha
The bends on your exhaust are just gorgeous, if its a bit loud for you now its probably gonna really loud once you start driving it and get the engine under load.
I think this is the first time I actually seen a pic of your car, makes me jealous that your paint is good and the body is straight, makes me think I got a long way to go still with mine and to make things worse I spent money I've been saving for my MR2 on the RAV4, but I'm a car nut so its money well spent to me still haha
Your build still looks great, nice progress, post a pic of this camper aswell just for giggles :-P
I just found a possible reason why my gearbox's stuck in reverse and won't engage 1,3 and 5th gear.
This should be in the box if i'm not mistaken :eusa_whistle:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/287.jpg\
I've already seen this box inside out so i hope i can get it out from the car in a couple of hours. I'le just follow the BGB to remove the box.
The paint still good?? I'le take my pics at night from now on!!
When i give it a realy nice polish it stays red for about 1-2 weeks maximum. Afther that it's pink again. Some parts stay red quite well but the more horizontal parts turn pink realy fast. Since the body's still quite straight i'm considering a full respray and anti rust treatment. But let's first finish the V6 conversion.s
Pauls V6 RAV4 realy seems like a beast on the vids. A 3S-GTE RAV4 will also be brutal! I'd love to see those stupid VW GTI's and faster stuff disapear in the rear mirror while driving a RAV4!! Would be great fun!
I'le make a pic of the camper this weekend, ow and it's a thirsty camper. It comsumes 1 liter per 5 km, while my dad's truck comsumes somthing like 1 liter per 3,5km and that's with 440 horses and +25.000KG while the camper has 70 horses and weighs 2100KG.
The bends on your exhaust are just gorgeous
+1 :thumbsup: Amazing looking zorst, very Brutal.
Glad you found the missing part! Would be a shame to redo all that work.
ps: can i ask who did youre exhaust? Looks very tidy.
The exhaust's made by Anthony from KiwiParts in Cuijk.
If i did understand it correctly he only takes limited orders.
He realy isn't expensive and delivers some very fine quality and the biggest win is that allmost everything is possible. He also makes custom (turbo)headers, motorbike gass tanks and exhausts etc.
:SmackBottom: Double post
Paul Woods
25-02-2012, 09:03
Amazing exhaust work going on there :thumbsup:
Here are some pics of the old open diff and the new LSD.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/360.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/361.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/362.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/363.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/364.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/365.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/366.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/367.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/368.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/369.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/370.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/371.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/02/372.jpg
I decided to destroy the old bearings to get them off since they looked really worn. So now i'le have to remove the bearing's outer parts from the gearbox and order 2 new bearings and fit them on the new LSD and in the box.
Because i've got new bearings and a new non Toyota LSD i'le definitely have to check the pre tension on these bearings.
The pre tension is measured by the force required to spin the LSD in the gearbox and is adjusted by putting in thicker or thinner shims. The pre load should be within 0.8 to 1.6 Nm and requires some special tools to measure.
At first i'le probably need a dialled torque meter wich can accurately read between 0.8 and 1.6 Nm.
The second tool i’le have to make myself. To measure the pre load I probably can't just insert a stub axle with some kind of adaptor for the torque meter because the diff internals will just start to spin instead of the complete diff. So it’ll need to be locked up or i’le have to use the housing of the diff instead of measuring at the splines.
As in pauls S54 LSD topic ausiemr2 suggests to use the input shaft since it has the same spline count as the axles do. But as can be seen in the pictures, the LSD isn't completely hollow straight trough. It has a narrowed part in the middle. So i was thinking of just using a bolt and nut to clamp onto the middle of the diff. It's only 1.6 Nm max. it would have to hold so that probably won't be a problem. It's also a lot easier for measuring since i can just use a normal extended socket on the torque meter.
Finally here's the official start up vid. Not the first startup but the first one since the gearbox's on again afther rebuilding it.
Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T52-j_x5AJw&context=C4c58953ADvjVQa1PpcFMDQQKb4yeey9transQ8ows ybFl15iyGUU=)
cdwood2010
31-03-2012, 20:01
That sir, is bloody awesome!
Love the detailing work, very well done indeed.
We do need to hear that loud pedal though!
:)
Found a problem with the loud pedal!
It doesn't get louder when i press the magic loud pedal. Engine doesn't respond, realy nothing happens.
When i create a vacuum leak the ecu does throttle the engine to keep it running. So the throttle control motor seems to be working.
I was thinking that maby this could be caused by not fooling the ECU to be in drive? Or maby my throttle position sensor is just dead.
I also don't have the original connector for the throttle position sensor and i couldn't find any part numbers of it. Anyone knows where i can find the part numbers from the connector housing, pins and seals?
Paul Woods
02-04-2012, 07:30
You're in limp mode i think, or the ECU has decided something is very wrong and won't let you accelerate. You need to hook a scanner up to the OBD2 port and see what it's reporting, you'll have a few transmission codes etc but you should see something come up out of the ordinary.
Did you wire up the OBD2?
Did wire it up but haven't checked for codes yet. Going to check that tonight.
hopefully my pc obd2 scanner works on the 3MZ.
bigpitty1
02-04-2012, 10:41
As said before, that was bloody awesome, sounds pretty beefy, as paul said you might have some auto codes and you've gone into limp home mode, have you fitted resistors to your auto harness to simulate the shift solenoids, tcc and line pressure solenoids?
Havn't fitted any resistors to simulate the auto trans. I've read such things a couple of times but couldn't find the actual info about it. Like wich type of resistor to wich wire or connector. So becouse i couldn't find it i havn't bothered with it.
I've just found some info about the resistors to simulate an auto trans for the ECU.
This page explanes the diffrent solenoids and their normal resistance on the U151E transmission: http://www.sonnax.com/publications/transmission/titles/u151u250-solenoid-info
This info is backed up by the transmission manual, only this is more easy to copy and has all the info on one page.
This thread has some info in it about late 1MZ ECU's: http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?17730-1MZ-auto-box-solenoids/page3
And when looking at the wiring diagrams there are only 3 solenoids wich are directly grounded. So when i'm right i've to put a 10Ohm resistor on those 3 wires to fake the transmission. At least enough to get rid of the cells wich can cause limp mode or affect timing. The other 5 solenoids do trow codes but won't cause limp or affect timing, so those will be left unattended.
I've only got one question now, the 1MZ tread states to use 10Ohm resistors. Only the Sonnax website and transmission manuals state the normal resistance of those 3 solenoids is 11-15 Ohm.
So do i still need those 10Ohm resistors or do i need them to be between 11 and 15 Ohm?
Paul Woods
02-04-2012, 20:54
I highly doubt you'll need resistors on the trans solenoids to cure your DBW pedal problem, i used to fit resistors to the 1mz swaps, but it was a waste of time, there was no gain to be had, all it did was cancel out a few codes.... and while you'll always have some unremoveable codes who cares about a few more, as long as they aren't causing a problem.
Get your scanner hooked up, i've had a recent issue with DBW throttle bodies causing your very issue.
Got the scanner up tonight, a USB ELM327 tool with some software. But it didn't work. It couldn't find any codes and while reading live data it failed afther 2 seconds.
So i guess i'le need a more professional scanner? Have read somehing in the past about difficulty's reading 1MZ or 2GR codes?
Good to know that the resistors arn't a part of the problem! Maby i'le give it a go when everything else is solved.
Paul Woods
02-04-2012, 21:41
There aren't many scanners that do work with Japanese ECU's, you need one that reads JOBD2, i use the maxidiag JP702 scanner and it's awesome.
Seems i can pick up a Maxidiag JP702 up this evening!
175,- euro's seems to be the normal price over here.
Paul Woods
03-04-2012, 19:13
About the same price here, it's an awesome bit of kit though.
The Autel Maxidiag JP701 is replaced by the Maxidiag JP01. The man at the local parts store couldn't tell me if there where any differences beside the name. So I’m hoping for some extra functions, but I’ll guess it's just the same thing with a different name :P
It wasn't on stock so they had to order it, should be in today or tomorrow. So still haven’t read the ECU.
Ow there's also one thing witch scares me a bit!
The brad bedell headers turn red hot after 5 min. of idling!
Is this because the ECU sets ignition way back and dumps fuel like a maniac because of the limp mode and missing wideband sensors?
Paul Woods
05-04-2012, 07:19
Typical limp mode behaviour, ignore that until the problem is sorted.
Paul.... Your fast!!! I'm glad to hear that! I also thought it was because of the limp mode, but it's nice to see it confirmed.
Nice way to bake my ceramic heat wrap :icon_mrgreen:
This part of the manual gives some possible codes wich can cause my problem:
http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manual/04/21j6774i/cifschar.pdf
Paul Woods
06-04-2012, 07:28
I recently had P2103 and P2111 on a faulty 2gr TB which restricted throttle to 2000rpm and rich running/limp mode etc
Caused by a defect accelerator pedal position sensor?
I got a call that the Maxidiag JP01 came in, so i'm picking it up today. So this evening i'le know what codes is causing this.
Paul Woods
06-04-2012, 15:05
No, just faulty throttle body.
I got the Maxidiag JP01 today and have just read the ECU. Only I've got a problem! I can read live data but when i check for fault codes it says that there arn't any fault codes. No codes stored and no pending codes :eusa_think:
I'm going to check the wiring if i've wired the OBD2 plug right. Otherwise i wouldn't know what can cause this, besides a faulty ECU?
Pin 4 and 5 are grounded on the same spot on the car.
Pin 16 has a permanent 12V on it.
Pin 7 is going to ECU plug A pin 18 SIL. (have to check if this is wired right)
Pin 13 is going to ECU plug A pin 20 TC. (have to check if this is wired right)
Pin 15 is going to ECU plug A pin 19 WSFE. (have to check if this is wired right)
Paul Woods
06-04-2012, 18:33
You should only need pin 7 SIL input to pull the codes and live data out, that is very odd.... if it's pulling live data then it must be wired right.
I have no idea why you aren't seeing codes, it should have several logged, check it by pulling one of the O2 sensor plugs apart with the engine running, if that doesn't log a code nothing will.... very strange.
I've checked the wires to the OBD2 plug and they're correct. My engine check light also doesn't light when the engine's running (also wired correct).
There's also one wideband and both of the o2 sensors not wired up and the auto tranny is missing. All other stuff should be wired correct.
I can reset the ECU by cutting off power for a couple of hours and then recheck if there are any codes.
Otherwise i also don't know what can cause this :icon_frown:
I've just checked some resistances of various components and it seems I’ve got a faulty accelerator position sensor.
The 3MZ-FE repair manual states the following pins should be checked on the sensor:
Standard:
Tester Connection Specified Condition
2 (VPA2) - 3 (EP1) 5.0 kohm or less --> Measured: 2.8 Kohm
1 (EP2) - 5 (VPA1) 5.0 kohm or less --> Measured: Nothing!
3 (EP1) - 6 (VCP1) 2.25 to 4.75 kohm --> Measured: 1.9 Kohm!
1 (EP2) - 4 (VCP2) 2.25 to 4.75 kohm --> Measured: 1.8 Kohm!
If the resistance is not specified, replace the accelerator pedal.
So I’m on the look for another accelerator pedal which i can hopefully source in Europe instead of the states because of the long shipping times.
Afther i found out the pedal was faulty i disconnected it and started the engine. Now the engine did behave completely different. Here are some specs from before and afther disconnecting the pedal:
First one is before second one afther disconnecting the pedal:
Load percentage: 30% --> 20%
RPM: 1300 --> 2200
Sparkadvancement: 5 degrees --> 23 degrees
Throttle position: 19.2% --> 19.2%
Wideband sensors: 3.3V --> 3.3V
I also did what paul suggested, pulled both wideband's when the engine was running. Still couldn't detect any fault codes!
I'm realy afraid that it's not only the pedal wich is faulty :icon_mad:
have you attempted to reset the TPS ? does a 3mz throttle body have an adjustable TPS like other marquees? had a similar problem in a mk1 (i know the world is bigger than the mk1!) i had a problem of it not throttling a 4age after a build, i reset the TPS position, measured resistances o.k and the acceleration was smooth and fixed.
Reset the TPS? never heard of it but I’m definitely going to look this one up! Thx for pointing me out! At this time I’m willing to try anything to get the car running normally.
If really nothing helps I’m considering going standalone or getting another ECU from the states. Only with the 2nd hand ecu i won't know if it has an immobilizer, and I’m unsure if our local dealer can check if an American car/ECU has the immobilizer active.
I'm going to check which standalone ECU's can be used with VVTI and DBW pedal. Maybe I’ll just have to ditch the DBW and get a 1MZ upper intake and throttle body if I’m going standalone.
As far as I’ve found the TPS can't be reset on the 3MZ BDW throttle body.
Now i think I’m going to tow the car to the local Toyota dealer and let them read the ECU. If they also won't find any codes I’m quite sure the ECU is faulty.
If that's the case I’m going standalone with a Megasquirt. Currently I’m already reading about what has to be done to get it working on the 3MZ with all oem sensors. The COP's seem to be logic level and injectors are high impendence versions so that's all easy. The 36-2 crank trigger needs some modifying but after that it's also possible to use it.
I’ll have to ditch the DBW pedal and throttle body. I can reuse the original accelerator pedal and throttle cable. Only I’ll have to use a 1MZ throttle body, which I’m unsure if it bolts on the plastic 3MZ upper intake. So maybe I need a complete upper intake from a 1MZ.
So the biggest hurdles will be setting up the VVTI, getting all the other settings right and get a proper base map.
Today I found out that I made a mistake when wiring the accelerator pedal. So i immediately corrected it and checked if the engine would come out of the limp mode.
Now it's still in limp mode, but a few things have changed.
Now I get a little reaction when putting down the accelerator pedal. The rpm rises about 700rpm. And the data which the obd2 scanner shows is quite different.
This is the data list i get:
DTC_DNT: 0
FEULSYS1: CL
FUELSYS2: CL
LOAD_PCT(%): 11.0 - 14.1
ECT: 88-93 (degrees Celsius, the system hasn't been bled)
SHRTFT1(%): 19.5-20.3 (seems to be cycling up and down between 19.35 and 20.3)
LONGFT1(%): 0.0
SHRTFT2(%): 19.5 - 20.3 (same as SHRTFT1)
LONGFT2(%): 0.0
RPM: 3137-3853 (when i pushed the accelerator pedal the rpm rises to about 3850)
VSS(Km/h): 0
SPARKADV(degrees): 22.0 - 44.5 ( when i pushed the accelerator pedal the spark advancement went to 44.5 degrees)
IAT: 15-19 (degrees Celsius)
MAF(g/s): 14.39-15.03 (random scattered between 14.39 and 15.03)
TP(%): 19.2% (doesn't move, is this normal in limp mode or do i have a faulty throttle body?)
O2B1SE(V): 0.000 (don't use this sensor because it only checks the catalic convertor)
SHRTFTB1SW(%): 99.2 (what's this??)
O2B2S2(V): 0.000 (don't use this sensor because it only checks the catalic convertor)
SHRTFTB2S2(%): 99.2 (what's this??)
OBD2SUP: OBDII
E1_RATB1S1: 1.042 (what's this?|)
O2B1S1(V): 3.479 - 3.562 (is this to lean?)
EQ_RATB2S1: 1.031 (what's this?|)
O2B2S1(V): 3.441 - 3.497 (is this to lean?)
Well this is the complete dataset i captured for about 30 seconds.
Are there any abnormality's in here?
Paul Woods
14-04-2012, 12:47
To me that doesn't look like limp mode, it should be in Open loop for limp (OL instead of CL) , lambda readings look good, although the short term fuel trims are a little high, how have you got the MAF sensor plumbed up? What diameter of pipe have you used and is it in at least 6" of straight pipe?
I think you need to triple check that pedal wiring, and then try another throttle body, as i said before we had a few faulty ones here recently.
Does the short term fuel trims indicate that the ecu is adding fuel on top of the base fuel map? And when the short term fuel trims go negative the ECU subtracts fuel from the base fuel map right?
My intake is plumbed up like this: Air filter 90mm opening --> 90 to 76mm silicone 45 degree elbow reducer --> MAF adaptor +/- 70mm inside diameter --> 76mm silicone coupler hose --> throttle body.
The 76mm silicone hoses fit nicely on the throttle body. I guess the throttle body has an internal diameter of 70mm, and the MAF adaptor also has a 70mm inside diameter. I'll have to measure it tonight to be sure.
Also I found a 2004 1MZ-FE RX300 throttle body on a local junkyard. This should fit the 3MZ, as toyodiy states it's also used on the 3MZ in the states. Have to pick it up next weekend.
Paul Woods
16-04-2012, 18:40
Indeed, it's adding fuel to the basemap.
When you did your wiring did you earth the throttle body ground to the chassis or does it run to the ECU E2 pin?
I'm not sure if it's using the ECU E2 pin or chassis ground. Can using chassis ground trow some code(s)?
I'm going to measure it right away!
If i remember correctly the pins are:
E2 pin is the throttle position sensor's ground
VC should be the 5V feed / reference
VTA1 and VTA2 are both sensor signals
M+ Throttle motor feed
M- Throttle motor ground
I called the local junkjards today and they both stated they didn't have the throttle body's anymore :(
Found a guy in the UK wich has one for sale, going to make him an offer. Also ordered one in the states, but i don't like to wait 3 weeks on it to arrive
Paul Woods
16-04-2012, 20:07
Actually on all of my DBW diagrams the TB earth is grounded at the ECU, humour me, ground it on E1 at the ECU instead of a chassis ground and report back, i've been through the mill on DBW TB wiring this last month.
I just measured the ground.
It's grounded on pin E2 aswel as to chassis ground! I think i made one thick ground wire from splice point I2 to chassis ground.
Tomorrow i'le undo the thick chassis ground to see if E2 still has a direct chassis ground.
Splice point I2 contains the wires from the throttle position sensor, vapor pressure, engine coolant sensor, MAF, ECU pin E2, and both heated o2 sensors (B1S2 and B2S2).
Should all these ground wires get their ground trough ECU pin E2?
BTW Paul, i already ow you quite some stroopwafels at this point :icon_wink:
Paul Woods
16-04-2012, 20:34
Yep all of those require Ecu grounding.
Stroops for the win!
MMaddict
16-04-2012, 23:17
Just tell me what cars TB you need... Ill just open up a random one from the street, then you can be quiet sure it works :)
Streets here are covered with camry's, sienna's, solara's and EX330's
First I’m going to wire up that ground as it should be. If things still won't work after it, my best bet's probably the throttle body.
Already ordered a throttle body in the states yesterday, just in case the wiring won't fix it.
Maby i can use some parts from the states/canada which you can source. I'll think about it and let you know!
I just corrected the wiring of the ground wires so the throttle position sensor, engine coolant sensor and MAF are only grounded trough E2 (ECU connector E pin 28). The vapor pressure sensor and both heated o2 sensors originally also ground on this pin, only i haven’t got them connected.
After solving this the problem still exists, no throttle body response and the ecu won't throw any codes.
Another throttle body's on the way from the states, maybe I’ll buy a Lexus RX 400h throttle body next week in Germany. It should come in earlier then the throttle body from the states.
Another thought: Could the code problem have to do that i have a new remanufactured ECU? it's an original by Toyota USA remanufactured ECU and hasn't been used since the remanufacturing.
The throttle body came in today so i mounted it right away, gues what? still no throttle response :(
I used a screwdriver to poke the throttle body blade so it would open. And when i push it open, the engine realy comes to life! It rev's realy fast and has a unbeleaveble agressive and loud note to it! Sounds like a lot of fun, only the damn thing still doesn't work.
I'm allmost out of thoughts on what to do or check :( Maby i'le get another ECU from the states with some international guaranteed priority mail (1-3 days delivery time).
For now i'm going to connect pin B10 to switched 12V to simulate the transmission's in drive. Don't think it'le change things but i'le just have to try some stuff now.
Paul Woods
09-05-2012, 18:27
It sounds like you're stuck in safe mode, the ECU clearly isn't happy with one of its inputs, are you 100% sure your pedal wiring is correct?
Pedal wiring is tripple checked. :(
maby it's the ECU? Since it's also very strange that it won't trow any codes at all.
When there's somthing wrong with the pedal it behaves like this:
"The accelerator pedal position sensor has two (main and
sub) sensor circuits. If a malfunction occurs in either of the
sensor circuits, the ECM detects the abnormal signal voltage
difference between the two sensor circuits and
switches to limp mode. In limp mode, the functioning circuit
is used to calculate the accelerator pedal opening angle to
allow the vehicle to continue driving. If both circuits malfunction,
the ECM regards the opening angle of the accelerator
pedal to be fully closed. In this case, the throttle valve
will remain closed as if the engine is idling."
And when there's somthing wrong with the ETCS it behaves like this:
"If the Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) has a malfunction,
the ECM cuts off current to the throttle control
motor. The throttle control valve returns to a predetermined
opening angle (approximately 16) by the force of the return
spring. The ECM then adjusts the engine output by controlling
the fuel injection (intermittent fuel-cut) and ignition timing
in accordance with the accelerator pedal opening angle
to enable the vehicle to continue at a minimal speed.
If the accelerator pedal is depressed firmly and slowly, the
vehicle can be driven slowly. If the accelerator pedal is
depressed quickly, the vehicle may speed up and slow
down erratically."
In my case it looks more like the etcs since the ECU adjusts the ignition timing (and i think it also adjusts fueling), the throttle stays shut at +/- 18 degrees.
My problem with the 20% fuel trim is gone, i did have a vacuum leak on the intake manifold becouse of two loose bolts. Now the short term fuel trims are 0 when i read live data.
EDIT:
Now i see the engine's in Open Loop again!
Brought another ECU with matching keys and immobilizer stuff in the states. Used some expensive 1-3 day shipping service becouse i can't stand the waiting anymore.
Hopefully this ECU will trow some codes so i can finally get to the problem.
Should the maxidiag JP701 be able to read the accelerator position sensor?
Couldn't find this in the obd2 live data and in the toyota specific part i can only read and erease codes (wich arn't there)
snowtigger
10-05-2012, 11:13
The maxidiag 702 was for jap motors I think euro was 701 look on fleabay, I was recommend the 4 in 1 that did every thing, are they obd obd11 obde thought they were a bridge the port and count the light bulb flashes job.
Ah 3mz so newer motor that would explain it on my diag I can upload which ever car manufacturer is needed.
bigpitty1
10-05-2012, 12:31
You said it came to life when you opened the throttle with a screw driver, maybe just bolt up a 1MZ throttle body up or put a 1MZ inlet manifold if the throttle don't bolt up and run the good old throttle cable haha
This must be so frustrating for you, anyways I got a question, with that scan tool you used, does it show streaming data? Then you should be able to see if your getting a position signal from you accelerator pedal and see both sensors working coz from every car I've worked with drive by wire throttles have 2 or more position sensors in the throttle, also another thing I've seen is the wiring harness is sometimes shielded to protected it from electrical interferences that could affect the signals
Thought I would throw in my 2 cents, hope you figure out this issue, I'm interested in finding what it is
The tool i've got shows live data, only no data for the accelerator position sensor. It's the Autel maxidiag JP701.
Today i made some check's on the wiring and it raised some questions. Maby there's a problem with my wiring afther all!
What should i do with the following pins:
A8: MREL (loose wire at this moment)
A9: IGSW (loose wire at this moment)
A10: FC (on ground of COR relais?)
B12: ST1- (Feed ST1- or STP a switched 12V?)
B19: STP
E16: NSW (Feed NSW or STA a switched 12V?)
E17: STA
I'm in doubt if MREL and IGSW are wired up correctly and unsure if i have to do anything about the brake signal or neutral switch.
And i found out that the "motor problem" light is burning when i power up the ECU, wich would indicate that there should be some codes right??
Paul Woods
14-05-2012, 20:34
Mrel isn't necessary , but pin A9 Igsw should have 12v ignition going to it, I think that's your problem , the ECU isn't powered up properly.
Holy flying cows.....
:hits-the-fan:
thought it just was a signal for MREL to open up the relais....
Paul Woods
14-05-2012, 20:56
Well I could be wrong , but something tells me it should have a 12v ign feed
Woohoo took some time but it looks like youre getting there! The highlanderclub has a nice diagram (http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manual/44/systemci/015ecs3m.pdf)showing the engine control for a 3mz-fe. Looks like these connections are used on several toyota engines, 2gr manual has the same definition. Makes sense in a way, IGSW, as in ignition switch, is probably something important :smile:. What i dont understand is how you can get any information from the ecu if its not powered properly :s
Paul Woods
14-05-2012, 21:04
Yep that diagram pretty much confirms my thoughts.
According to the manual:
(6) Battery signal circuit
Voltage is constantly applied to TERMINAL BATT of the engine control module. With the ignition SW turned on, the
voltage for engine control module start-up power supply is applied to TERMINALS +B and +B2 of the engine control
module via the EFI relay.
The current flowing through the IGN fuse flows to TERMINAL IGSW of the engine control module.
So there is power to the ecu, but you also need power for the ecu start up, which is provided by the igsw (ignition switch)
Yep that diagram pretty much confirms my thoughts.
Haha paul to the rescue, i actually have to look stuff up, you just do it of the top of youre head :smile: For ten points and advancement to the next round: whats the EKNK connection for? :smile:
Paul Woods
14-05-2012, 21:47
Lol sad enough to know that's a knock sensor pin, can't remember which one though
haha you sad basterd :thumbsup:, im sending you the microwave!
MMaddict
15-05-2012, 04:06
Come on Patrick, It took long enough now, finish that bloody 3mz of yours, Im back in 2 weeks and then Ill need yours to be done so you can come over and give me a hand :icon_twisted:
So where pauls thoughts right or not?
Does this look right?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMYr1LEklog
I loooooveeeee the noise!!! shame it's realy way to loud. So the exhaust needs some work :rozzer:
Paul Woods
15-05-2012, 19:16
Awesome.
That's a big box of stroopwaffles you owe me :jump:
Stroopwafels are comming paul!! Friday i'm going to shop for Pinkpop (dutch festival) and for the Stroopwafelmonster (a.k.a. Paul Woods)!!
Paul Woods
15-05-2012, 19:24
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/05/164.jpg
Are those your children Paul? Little stroopwafelmonsters!
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/05/165.jpg
well done, which part of holland are you in?
decipherer
15-05-2012, 21:39
Congratulations and well done! Glad you finally have it running :D Now you should be able to have it road legal before the good weather starts. Provided we get some this year of course :p
Nice job mate, sounds sweet!
MMaddict
16-05-2012, 02:48
Awsome, now its just all the little details that are left!
IGSW was connected to a switched 12V. Afther that code P2118 prevented it from running becouse BM+ was unconnected. So afther wiring a permanent 12V to BM+ it did run.
Little to do list:
- Bleeding clutch
- Fill the transmission
- Weld a oil catch can, mount it and connect the hoses
- Tape all wiring to some neat bundles
- Mount the underbody panels + take some measurements for a single piece aluminium flat bottom panel.
- Torque a t-bolt clamp on a leaking coolant hose
- probally some more
Near the city of Nijmegen, East/south east part of Holland :icon_smile:
Well i've got a strange problem with the tacho mod. I replaced the 43K resistor with a 22K and the 7.5K with a 10K potmeter.
At the first try the tacho didn't show any revs, so i put the multimeter on both leads to check the resistance of the pot meter and.... tadaaa it shows the revs as long as i've got the multimeter attacheck on the two wires. :icon_surprised:
Didn't checked anything becouse i was already packing all stuf and didn't have any time left to check things. Going to chech things tomorrow.
What do you guys think's causing this?
MMaddict
18-05-2012, 05:04
I didnt look into the mod yet so I don't know what you meassured, but it sounds you got a bad connection/ component between the two places where you are measuring.... so if you are measuring over the pot meter I guess the potmeter is faulty and the multi meter is completing the connection....
But be aware that my electronic knowledge is basic.
Paul Woods
18-05-2012, 06:59
Replace the 43k resistor with a simple link wire, i think your meter is doing this job for you.
The 1mz/3mz etc use an ECU based tacho signal, so you need to ditch the ballast resistor to get that working, just link across the 43k.
Depends whether it is measuring current or voltage.
In current mode the multimeter is low resistance i.e wire link
In voltage mode the multimeter is high resistance i.e >100k
Test which mode the multimeter is in when you get it to work and that will tell you whether you need to increase or decrease the resistor!
bigpitty1
18-05-2012, 11:19
Its good to see you got it running, keep up the good work and the updates
Just made my first test drive! It realy transformed the car into a beast!
3d gear pulls are more like what 1st gear pulls used to be!
There are also some more problems to solve.
- While shifting it's very hard to get it into gear.
- 2nd gear pops right out.
- exhaust rattles against subframe.
- There's a nasty noise depending on the drive speed. it's like one of the axles is shaving along the gearbox for a quarter of it's rotation.
- The clutch... it's a ACT heavy duty, allmost impossible to drive! have to press it full to get it to release and it immediately has full grip when releasing it a tiny bit. Oh and it's heavy... Maby i just have to get a bit more used to it.
- tacho needs to be modified with a link wire as paul said.
So still some things to do this weekend!
For the clutch, if the car was an N/A replace the pedal assembly with a Turbo assembly that has assister springs. I have an ACT and it was murder until I did this, it's now bearable.
cdwood2010
18-05-2012, 19:34
For the clutch, if the car was an N/A replace the pedal assembly with a Turbo assembly that has assister springs. I have an ACT and it was murder until I did this, it's now bearable.
Those helper springs make a massive difference.
When we bled the clutch on build #4 it felt like the pedal wasnt doing anything despite the slightly meatier LUK clutch....
c.
Seems the shifting problem's because of the clutch not fully disconnecting.
When selecting first gear with a running motor the car's rolling forward about one cm and i had to try several times before it would actually go in first gear. With the motor switched off it pops right into first gear and most other gears.
Maybe it's possible to adjust the pedal a bit to give the master cylinder some more stroke to get the clutch to disconnect properly. I’ll also bleed the clutch another time with the vacuum bleeder to make sure there's no air left.
i had the same issue with the 3vz install.. wouldnt change gear with engine on, turn it off..pops in gear real easy..turn it on, couldn't select any gear, real confusing, answer was to loosen the nut behind clutch pedal, turn rod behind pedal clockwise ,keep doing/trying until it selects gear while running. my clutch also was not disengaging fully.
tripod23
20-05-2012, 11:36
iv heard this so many times , i read an article sometime back where anybody who used these beefy after market clutches , where also putting a slightly longer push rod into the slave , i think from memory its a qauter inch longer than standard and speed source sell them. this may also help you . i think like lee said get the turbo clutch pedel , and maybe try the longer push rod , could be a winner.
I just made a mod on the tacho meter. Removed the 43K resistor and put a straight piece of wire on those 2 points.
When i started the car the tachometer did rise to about 3K rpm and then dropped dead.
When i put the multimeter on those two leads of the potmeter it rises again, but isn't rising wheni rev the car. it's just stationary and the height is dependend on the potmeter.
The multimeter's in voltage mode, so a very high resistance.
Can't figure it out, but i think one of the components on the board i fried? becouse the needle did rise and then just dropped back dead.
I think the easyest thing to do is to get a v6 tacho and mount it in my cluster.
Paul Woods
20-05-2012, 20:11
Sounds to me like you fried something on the tacho board, i personally wouldn't use a V6 tacho, it will always read out by quite a bit.
When placing the link wire, i do still need the pot meter right? And should it also be set at about 3.27K?
Paul Woods
22-05-2012, 18:59
Yes that is correct.
Just a stab at this.... try a slightly larger resistor than the original 43k resistor such as 100k or 500k ohms....
I've been to the RDW (they monitor and test all veheicles etc. in the Netherlands) for the 2nd time. This time all their mechanical points from the first time i've been there where approved. Now the last that had to be done before i can legally driving the roads was a emission test. And the engine failed it! :(
All values where easily within spec, except the lamba value. They measured a lamba 1.3 while it should be under 1.03 to pass the test. A lamba 1.3 is indicating that the engine would be running to lean.
So at home i put the scanner on and it did show a 3.300 volt on the afr sensors which should be spot on (14.7 afr / 1.0 lamba).
Now i was thinking, maby i've got some leaks between the exhaust flanges behind the afr sensor where air can enter the exhaust system. That way their sensor which is entered at the rear of the exhaust can see some excess o2 which would lead to a faulty result. Or maby my afr sensors arn't calibrated right or somthing?
I'm going to seal the exhaust flanges with some liquid exhaust gasket and have it measured again.
Are there any other things which can cause this?
Just checked for codes and i was a bit shocked... Got random multiple misfire and for each cylinder a misfire code!
P0300 RANDOM/MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE DETECTED
P0301 CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE DETECTED
P0302 CYLINDER 2 MISFIRE DETECTED
P0303 CYLINDER 3 MISFIRE DETECTED
P0304 CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE DETECTED
P0305 CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE DETECTED
P0306 CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE DETECTED
dgh938peg
18-07-2012, 09:17
earths ????
Paul Woods
18-07-2012, 10:30
The 1mz and 3mz will throw misfire codes when your fuelling isn't right, dodgy AFR sensors etc, all will trigger a cylinder misfire.
snowtigger
18-07-2012, 12:26
My o2 sensor wires got melted through and throwed out random misfire codes, so dodgy fueling and maybe sensor, try cleaning the sparkplugs as well every little helps.
I just readjusted the fuel pressure wich was a bit to high, now it's 50 psi.
And i pulled a spark plug to check the color and gap. The gap was ok but the color was still like they where brand new. They won't turn brown wich would also indicate that the enigne's running lean.
So the engine's running lean but both of the afr sensors are giving a 3.3v signal. Now the ECU thinks the AFR is spot on and continues to run lean.
The misfiring's probally also becouse the engine's running lean.
Ow and while idling it's also running very rough. RPM's bouncing up and down from c.a. 500-700rpm. this is becouse of the misfiring?
Ow and there's a strange vanlue on the OBD2 reader.
Fuel stat 1 and 2 are: CL-FAULT don't know what it means but seems it's pointing to a problem in the parts wich control the CL fueling, timing etc.?
So now i've seen all this i think the AFR sensors are off spec. And this probally can't be adjusted right?
Anyone can point me out to some quality AFR sensor's wich i can use in my 2005 3MZ-FE?
MMaddict
19-07-2012, 20:54
Anychance the O2 sensors have anything to do with it? You're not using OEM O2 sensors do you?
don't use any O2 sensors. Only AFR and they're not OEM.
MMaddict
20-07-2012, 20:54
Ah mixing up AFR with Air flow sensor....
Maybe its you MAP/MAF sensor, think I seen paul say it needed to have a specific length or distance from the throttle body not?
So what ever happened with this??? I have found these 3.3 engines are everywhere and massively cheaper than the 2GR.
What's up? Does it run correctly, and did it ever get completed??
cdwood2010
16-06-2014, 20:31
Reload!
2767
It's my daily driver.. done about 30.000km with the 3MZ and still going strong.
I certainly had my part of issues at the start, mostly because of trying to rush the build.
So some things are learned the hard way.
I’ll try to make you a more detailed story shortly.
Well thanks! It's good to know because I am likely to use one of these 3.3 engines on my next swap, so you'll be the expert on it!
Awesome news!
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