View Full Version : my mk1.5 body work
Im going to write a simple short thread on my progress restoring various parts of my body & chasis, most are common problems the mr2 suffers in our climate and salty wet roads :D. it will not be rocket science and not perfect, just a yarn of what i will have done to restore my body, I am no bodyworker by a yard!, so hopefully with a little input from those better i can do allright. I'm going to start with the front end, as that seems to be the worst.
i'm going to break it down into three main sections
A: front end
B: mid section
c: rear end
here is the to do list for the front end which i have started:
1. wheel painting & tyres (in prog).
2. suspension clean/paint/re-bush (in prog).
3. re-fit suspension / wheels, set camber roughly square.
4. roll out of garage, replace ONE new wing temporarily, remove spolier, tape up eurosport one roughly. model flared arch with cardboard if needed. then remove doors & wings / skirts / bumper / bonnet / lights / bumper bar, knock all loose rust off.
5. roll back in garage, jack up, remove wheels.
6. send out wings if arch flare needed @ front, to tin bashers for very handy portable arch fabrication (one good thing, the bolt on wings)
7. send bumper bar out for sand blasting.
8. rub down rusty parts, treat with rust eating solution / prime / filla /
9. check front end over, filla / repair / re-prime as necessary.
10. hammerite the bumper bar any other bits i want done inside front. <---what paint is good on chasis inside?
11. re-fit bumper bar & bumper
12. re-fit new bonnet (leave lights out for access to wing screws later).
13. take fabricated front wings and prepare inside faces with?? <--help
14.. This will move onto the mid section including cutting and welding & repairing a/b pillar rust
critic as necessary !.
..............................................
I have removed one side of the suspension, and taken off the arch liner, poked about, um and ah'd, changed pants. prioritised tasks. the wheels are in finishing & hubs/suspension is building, this will take some few weeks at least, so dont expect daily progress!. i thought last night that the wing was rusted almost welded to a part of the body, on closer inspection, i was wrong, i was trying to pull a piece of the wing, off the wing (thicko).. after checking the new wing, i found this out, the green minus - and plus + show which parts i thought were rusted together..
appears there is a shark on the loose
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot3.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot2.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot4.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot5.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot6.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bodyrot7.jpg
some good points, the rear arch sills are solid. I have all the panels to replace where the shark has eaten.
Woa.... thats a lot of rust mate.... you've deffo got your work cut out.... the outcome should make it all worthwhile though :righton:
superchargedsam
18-01-2006, 00:27
man makes me think my t bar aint so bad now although I havent stripped off half them parts yet so am now scared of what I might find ! all sounds good though Adam !
robwsurf
18-01-2006, 00:48
repairing panels or sections of panels off the car isnt a good idea. as the panel will not be stiff like when its on the car and problery a different shape when you unbolt it also repair sections never fit perfectly so if you weld it off the car it will be a nightmare to get it look right.
Thats what i ve found but others may not agree
missed a bit last night edited
superchargedsam
18-01-2006, 00:59
all this just scares me to death, glad the sc doesnt need mcuh but the 1.5 hmmm !
Paul Woods
18-01-2006, 06:40
adam im sure ive got two half decent front panel sections lying about here,the ones that your front spoiler lip attach too....put it this way,they are a lot better than those! i'll dig them out today and if you want them they will be free...they might not be perfect but stacks easier to make 100%.
Driftin_AW
18-01-2006, 08:35
adam im sure ive got two half decent front panel sections lying about here,the ones that your front spoiler lip attach too....put it this way,they are a lot better than those! i'll dig them out today and if you want them they will be free...they might not be perfect but stacks easier to make 100%.
I have some of them too, almost mint I think and free aswell but you'll have to pay shipping (shouldn't be much I'd guess - maybe 10-15 pounds?)
^^^ thanks malcolm / paul, one side is as you see, the other is o.k, i have the replacement front left quarter hoarded away, if the other side turns out to be eaten aswell, i'll let you know.
am i to assume that my eurosport spoiler thing, uses these two small panels to attatch to?.. i was under the impression i was going to rip them both off, and the spoiler , and just stick the eurosport one in place?
rob, i appreciate what your saying about the arch distorting some, what i will do, is model the arches, then take arch & them intact to fabricators, have them made, i can tack them on myself once the arch is done, and use that joining strip stuff for the corner. paul where can i get me some of this strip, the same as what you used for your flares?
MegatronUK
18-01-2006, 20:19
am i to assume that my eurosport spoiler thing, uses these two small panels to attatch to?.. i was under the impression i was going to rip them both off, and the spoiler , and just stick the eurosport one in place?
Unfortunately not :( ... it fits over the top, but doesn't really fasten to them in any way.
The spoiler really only can be properly attached on the inside of each wheel arch. Everywhere else is purely a bodge job. We used BIG ol' self tapers up through the spoiler into the standard bumper - but gauging where the metal insert in the standard bumper is a bit hits and miss, if you just get rubber it will never support the weight of the spoiler.
We also did a bit of combined fixing/aero work by fitting a large section of alluminium under the bottom of the spoiler to the back of the radiator support - rivetting it to the rad support and screw/bolting it to the underside of the valance - it gives a bit more support, stops it from flexing at speed and also helps a bit with air flow both under the car and through the radiator.
I'm afraid it's an all round pig to fit Adam. Be sure to use plenty of sikaflex in addition to the bolts and screws - if you put enough on you can smooth it into a decent lip/bond line where it meets the bumper.
You've got your work cut out though!
superchargedsam
18-01-2006, 20:34
the autostyle front spoiler has some very long sections that go under the car quite a way and I rekon this has got to aid airflow under the car, chances are this front spoiler will end up modified so that the large square cut outs at the front become tapered and maybe circular which in turn will be fasted to some hose aimed at the front brakes in order to keep them cool, this will of course have meshing in to stop stones flying at the disc caliper area and will also aid airflow a little from the front !
Marksman
18-01-2006, 20:39
the autostyle front spoiler has some very long sections that go under the car quite a way and I rekon this has got to aid airflow under the car, chances are this front spoiler will end up modified so that the large square cut outs at the front become tapered and maybe circular which in turn will be fasted to some hose aimed at the front brakes in order to keep them cool, this will of course have meshing in to stop stones flying at the disc caliper area and will also aid airflow a little from the front !
I'm liking that a lot Sam. Still going for the Lambo doors and yellow... um... black... um... ahah gun metal paintwork?
Cheers,
OWen.
superchargedsam
18-01-2006, 20:47
colour could be anything yet as change my mind every week ! Am gonna follow this thread closely to see how adam gets on with the bodywork and what he does as I will probably have similar tasks on my hands soon !
Unfortunately not :( ... it fits over the top, but doesn't really fasten to them in any way.
The spoiler really only can be properly attached on the inside of each wheel arch. Everywhere else is purely a bodge job. We used BIG ol' self tapers up through the spoiler into the standard bumper - but gauging where the metal insert in the standard bumper is a bit hits and miss, if you just get rubber it will never support the weight of the spoiler.
let me get this just right :D .. The spoiler bolts on on top of a normal front end, including the old front valence?..
i will be reinforcing with one long 3 x 20mm alluminium strip and many self tapers under and into the bumper, sound work no point in changing!. some other stuff also, it'l be solid by the time its done hopefully from all angles. by the sound very similar to your set.
behind the wheel arches.. i.e, the 90 degree bit of arch that the arch liner & spoiler ends attatch too, what did you use here? i was thinking screws would be quite visible just inside the arch there..
Paul Woods
19-01-2006, 06:41
adam i forgot about you using the eurosport in my last reply! no need to mess about fitting those front panels then,whats the point? they'd be hidden anyway,one thing you'd need to to is brace the front lower bit of the wing that joins onto that panel but a few lengths of light angle will sort that.
Me....id make a support frame for your spoiler,something decent for it to attach to,the only other option as john says is to screw and sikaflex it on into the underside of the bumper,you could do this too in conjunction with a framework of sorts....uber strong!
I got that slotted arch making angle stuff from my local bodyshop...no not anita roddicks place! :D if you want me to buy some here i'll gladly send it down to you bud.
MegatronUK
19-01-2006, 08:28
let me get this just right :D .. The spoiler bolts on on top of a normal front end, including the old front valence?..
Basically, but you'll need to take the plastic splitters off.
behind the wheel arches.. i.e, the 90 degree bit of arch that the arch liner & spoiler ends attatch too, what did you use here? i was thinking screws would be quite visible just inside the arch there..
Yes. We used countersunk screws and also rivets in several locations.
As Paul says you'll definitely need some kind of bracing along the bottom; either straight stays back to the chassis along the lines of those on the car for the standard arches, or sheet metal of the kind I mentioned. I think without either it would flex and crack at motorway speeds.
ok, well said, i'll reinforce it and knock up a nice frame for extra strength.
I have now stripped all the front suspension , the arb was fun, taking that off 'snap''snap''snap''snap' (at keast they all did the same :D) then it dropped like a sack .. joy to watch, i'll be under there sometime yet, usual hot drill swarf in the eye and neck .
only them four arb bolts sheared out of all the suspension /brakes nuts and bolts, so a blessing in disguise really.
superchargedsam
20-01-2006, 09:05
coming along nicely now then adam by tsounds of it !
Gary Symons
20-01-2006, 14:39
A quick tip if while doing the rear suspension you want to remove the suspension mount bracket. There are 2 removable panels in the boot under some seam sealant type stuff. Remove then and squirt a load of wd40 at the now exposed rear of the bolts. I didnt do this on the first side and did on the other, guess which one sheared :lol2:
Jiff Lemon
20-01-2006, 17:29
Forget hammerite - POR15 is the stuff you want; You can buy it online at Frost Auto's - Will find the link when I get home (sat in a Hotel in Reykavik at the mo!)
Also worth getting is a couple of litres of Fertan - Think of it as "proper" rust remover!
Paul Woods
20-01-2006, 17:46
as in iceland??? wtf u doin there! :D TB members certainly get around.
MegatronUK
20-01-2006, 18:31
Forget hammerite - POR15 is the stuff you want;
Great for engine blocks too!
A quick tip if while doing the rear suspension you want to remove the suspension mount bracket. There are 2 removable panels in the boot under some seam sealant type stuff. Remove then and squirt a load of wd40 at the now exposed rear of the bolts. I didnt do this on the first side and did on the other, guess which one sheared :lol2:
great tip, the car is full of secret panels!, athough, if its like mine, the panels have rotted too :D
thanks jif, i'll have a gander at the por15 ..
, ive had a look at them, they look allright, can i ask what you have used these for?.. have you painted your motor with?..
todays progress, i started to strip the suspension down, most of the nuts were just seized solid, the beauty of having all the replacement parts and not needing the car for daily driving, was introducing the shocks to my mate murphy.. and cutting throug them in a few short seconds, i didnt cut all the way thru as the spring would have had my 9inch grinder blade dotted about the room, i left a few mil of shaft and gave a dink with a fbh, these things really fly when compressed and cut , better than a massage :D , i had to use the biggy as it will reach the shaft through the spring, once off, i could then easily hold the ram in a meaty vice, and crack off the top nut, it wouldnt come off as it spins round and returns like a spring when hit/torqued.. you know i'm sure.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/shockgrind.jpg
i think i need a special tool now.. i have stripped down to the shock insert / oil damper etc.. including using 2 foot stilsons to get the damper retaining nut off :D theres is now a nut showing with four tiny pin holes, how has anyone gotten this nut off?
superchargedsam
21-01-2006, 23:36
how did you get the retaining nut off then as it just spins ! i even put it back on the car and still spins ! ruddy things, wanted to strip these as they are off the car and can be sorted to put back on again with nice new bits ! If anyone knows of a good suspension strip down and rebuild sticky anywhere nows the time to post it I rekon !
lodgeman
22-01-2006, 00:59
if you are not using the shocks again try putting some mole grips on the piston (not reccomended if reusing). mine came of quite easily and there was no other nut once you have removed the large strut(shocker) retaining nut. the shock should just pull out. dont forget to add some oil in the strut to keep cool when refitting.
how did you get the retaining nut off then as it just spins ! i even put it back on the car and still spins ! ruddy things, wanted to strip these as they are off the car and can be sorted to put back on again with nice new bits ! If anyone knows of a good suspension strip down and rebuild sticky anywhere nows the time to post it I rekon !
as i meant to say, i wanted to take the spring out of the equation, to grip the shaft, i thought instead of just spring, cut the shaft right off, why not? i did not need it. once the shaft is nice and stumpy, you can bite on it direct in a nice big vice, grind spanner flats on the shaft for extra purchase in the vice if needed, use a spanner hammer technique and wd40.. it came off first time. I use a large heavy copper hammer for stubborn nuts, yards better than steel hammers. if you had no large cutter, you might want to hit it with some acetylene, or you could always chisel the nut / nut splitter.. if you have a new shock set to fit, it should have nuts with it, no need for any of it really. i dont want to go into long dr awn out explanations of cutting, but for me, it was a matter of what tools i had to hand today, it took all of about 5 minutes to cut the shaft, watch the spring and top half fly across the workshop :D. and succedd in taking the top nut off.
brutal pleasure
if you are not using the shocks again try putting some mole grips on the piston (not reccomended if reusing). mine came of quite easily and there was no other nut once you have removed the large strut(shocker) retaining nut. the shock should just pull out. dont forget to add some oil in the strut to keep cool when refitting.
ah, now thats what i wanted to hear, it pulls straight out.. i did try, but only playing about, i did not want to damage the internal threads if it was a nut, i guess that piece part with 4 tiny holes is part of the insert, and it all comes out as one piece, i will get some pics for ref
a good suspension strip down and rebuild sticky anywhere nows the time to post it I rekon !
Hi Sam been looking at stripping mine down and erics' site (as always) seems to have quite a good write up. Though I spose I wont know how good it really is till I try to follow it with a socket in my hand :lol:
http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/
Marksman
22-01-2006, 09:54
Howdy folks. When you say spinning nut are we talking the one on the top of the shaft that holds the top mount and spring onto the assembly? If so I found that despite it spinning freely an impact driver worked very easily. It would seem that the nut undoes a fraction before the shaft has a chance to rotate on each strike. Didn't think it stood a chance in hell of working but it did :?
As for doing the bastard thinng up again that's a different story!
Cheers,
Owen.
superchargedsam
22-01-2006, 09:55
Nice one cheers Rowan, Adam and Lodge, must get a vice as am struggling without one and dont rekon my workmate will be up to that somehow !
superchargedsam
22-01-2006, 09:56
Owen yeah was gonna gie that approach a go first as well just in case !
Paul Woods
22-01-2006, 10:06
just whack a pair of mole grips at the top of the polished shaft! its never going to go near the damper seal so doesnt matter if you chew it up,as long as it stops the top nut spinning :D
Jiff Lemon
22-01-2006, 15:05
great tip, the car is full of secret panels!, athough, if its like mine, the panels have rotted too :D
thanks jif, i'll have a gander at the por15 ..
, ive had a look at them, they look allright, can i ask what you have used these for?.. have you painted your motor with?..
First used it about 7 years ago on Mk1 Renault 5 hill climber I had; Thing was stripped bare and as it had no door seals (weigh too much!) it used to regularly fill up with water; had an inch and half of water sat on the POR'ed floor pan for most of the winter and even NOW, there's still not a sign of rust!
My MR2 floor pan is getting covered in it as soon as I find time; just remember to where gloves when using it, cos it takes about 2 months to get it off your skin!
thanks for the tip jif, i will try some Por15, not on the shockers, but the suspension mounts and cross member and chasis etc. and it will get sprayed after with hammerite, double safe.
yep, guys, i bet theres a million and one ways to undo that top nut, impact wrench sounds like the best bet, cracking the top nut while the shocker is still intact. if i had one life would be easy :D
the guys shock insert retaining nuts, on that write up page (slot drive type) are different to mine, mine were large 8 sided flanges(pictured), my shocks are in an abominable state: if mole grips had a chance i would have used them, i had to use 2 foot stilsons to get this 8 sided nut off... different to that other guys nut, possibly the earlier model he has?.. lodge, is this shock nut te same as yours?.. can anyone refer to the four pin holes underneath this nut and tell me if it will come straight out as a whole insert unit?.. i have later revision mk1
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/shocktop.jpg
Marksman
22-01-2006, 18:35
Howdy.
Once upon a time I spent ages (viceless) getting these large eight sided shock retaining nuts out. In the end I welded a bar to them and used that to undo them :evil: There then ensued much grinding, faffing and painting to make them useable again. Twas at this point that some kindly soul informed me that when you buy new shocks they come with a replacement nuts, so all my effort was wasted. ](*,) ](*,)
Not sure on the pin hole issue. Do you have a photo? May be part of the original Toyota oil filled shock rather than a replacement cartridge type. Either way you can binn it!
Cheers,
Owen.
Driftin_AW
22-01-2006, 20:02
I made a socket for undoing those big 8 sided nuts! Got some 3mm bar and welded it up into a square - you might notice that half the sides of the 8 sided nuts are smaller than the other half? Anyway I made a square socket, put a couple of angle braces across the corners, then cut the 1/2" drive off an imperial socket I never use and welded that to the custom GPE Gland Nut Socket I'd just made :D
Works a charm, just put the strut body into a vice, slide GPE Gland Nut Socket onto gland nut, put large 1/2" drive breaker bar onto GPE Glant Nut Socket and turn \\:D/
Marksman
22-01-2006, 21:00
I made a socket for undoing those big 8 sided nuts! Got some 3mm bar and welded it up into a square - you might notice that half the sides of the 8 sided nuts are smaller than the other half? Anyway I made a square socket, put a couple of angle braces across the corners, then cut the 1/2" drive off an imperial socket I never use and welded that to the custom GPE Gland Nut Socket I'd just made :D
Works a charm, just put the strut body into a vice, slide GPE Gland Nut Socket onto gland nut, put large 1/2" drive breaker bar onto GPE Glant Nut Socket and turn \\:D/
Nice! Very nice and far more proffesional (but less brutal) than my solution. I did contemplate the custom tool route but then saw that the front shocks had a different size nut to the rear and slipped into a botchy mood!
Cheers 'n' all,
Owen.
lodgeman
22-01-2006, 21:21
adam - the inserts just pull out, there is no other thing holding it in.if i can find an old one i willl post a pic.
yep, it sure does al, i stuck it in lathe chuck and gave it a little yank, it came out easy, i worried as in my profession, many nuts with pin holes in.. just a bit pre-nutual worry :D
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/shockinserttop.jpg
chipping away at suspension clean & paint, chipping bieng the right word.
Marksman
25-01-2006, 07:00
yep, it sure does al, i stuck it in lathe chuck and gave it a little yank, it came out easy, i worried as in my profession, many nuts with pin holes in.. just a bit pre-nutual worry :D
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2006/01/103.jpg
chipping away at suspension clean & paint, chipping bieng the right word.
Not seen one of those before! Anyway it will need to come out if you're fitting new shock inserts so I presume you may have to fashion a 4 pronged peg spanner thingy to unscrew them...
Cheers,
Owen
Paul Woods
25-01-2006, 07:12
what the hell is that? adam ive never seen that four hole ring thing before....and ive taken a LOT of mk1 struts apart! was that sitting under the insert top nut on the shocker tube? i cant make out what that thing is! either way as owen says leave it out with your new inserts.
superchargedsam
25-01-2006, 11:50
hmmm what shocks are they adam, I have tockico 4 way adjustables and KYBs and havent seen that on either of them and took standard ones out a few years ago and didnt see them then either (well I didnt take them apart but cleaned all the parts up after and never saw one of them !)
one things for sure, whatever they were, they are now trully fubarred :D .. :D
the whole assembly did slide out,including those there nuts, yes paul, they were underneath the standard insert top nut. I shall take obligatory oohh ahh photos for another toyota oddball part.
I have some questions for anyone experienced with fitting koni shocks,.. simple q's:
in the instructions it says about sticking the insert into a vice (the main shaft) and pushing the insert in and out and turning the setting nut, i dont see any point in this? why would i need to do this?
my front shock inserts are quite close to the top of the insert tube (new ones), i would estimate 3-4mm from the top, anyone else find this?, its not a problem, there are enough threads to hold, just a reference would do.
there are some white plastic round shim type things in the kit, where do these go?
I am guessing the standard camber adjusting nut on the Mk1 will re-true my camber enough with these shocks and the post adjustment?.
lodgeman
25-01-2006, 23:49
the plastic shim things are so that the insert is not loose inside the tube when you tighten the big nut. you dont want it rattling around as you are bouncing over our lovely flat and even british roads!:razz:
Paul Woods
26-01-2006, 06:55
in the instructions it says about sticking the insert into a vice (the main shaft) and pushing the insert in and out and turning the setting nut, i dont see any point in this? why would i need to do this?
pass...to prime it maybe? cant think why.....
I am guessing the standard camber adjusting nut on the Mk1 will re-true my camber enough with these shocks and the post adjustment?.
Indeed it will,you can borrow my camber gauge if you like mate.
the plastic shim things are so that the insert is not loose inside the tube when you tighten the big nut. you dont want it rattling around as you are bouncing over our lovely flat and even british roads!:razz:
bing*
ta lodge, i wont be needing them for the fronts, not enough thread to hold on as it is!, mere three/four threads.
Thanks for the offer paul, altho i should really get off my lazy behind and make one, I think im going to get it all lazer tracked once running, i'll set it with the gauge until then, nip off down to b&q for the bits.
o.k, so still painting and tackling the suspension. here are some more shots of the front shocker insert..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontshock1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontshock2.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontshock3.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontshock4.jpg
i'm still waiting for news on my intercooler ducting, i'll have to give him a poke.. wheels still getting painted aswell..
Driftin_AW
26-01-2006, 23:17
wtf? that is the strangest looking shock I've seen in a long time...
Paul Woods
27-01-2006, 07:01
agreed....they dont look stock at all.
superchargedsam
27-01-2006, 08:32
yup they look like a fork leg from a motorbike to me, am most confused by these pics but just thought it was me !
lodgeman
27-01-2006, 09:40
mine were like that!:shock:
superchargedsam
27-01-2006, 09:55
hmmm perhaps I have never looked properly at standard inserts then as my KYBs look nothing like that nor did my tockicos I dont think but was a while ago !
i was spinning an insert in the lathe with some emery cloth, just to take the crap off, and clean ready for some wet stuff, it appears.. the shocks are of course toyota inserts as they have been stamped on the body.. the first stamping reads.. 'toyota D1-08'
further round the diamater there are japanese symbols, and also english reading.. 'caution-gas filled inserts- do not heat' , will a 9 inch grinder do?.. wheres that sh*t pants smiley gone?. i would have been less hasty with the grinder if i'd known they had gas in, never the less, the age of these, i wouldnt expect them to be very potent. next fireworks night, throw a toyota shock on the fire :D..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/shockid1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/shockid2.jpg
i am still cleaning the suspension, it was in an appauling state, i have had to hit them with ball pein hammers and the likes to crack lumps of rust off, jet-washing them,hammer & chisel, wire wheel bits in drill, and also plenty of rubbing down to get them in a state where i can then paint again. here are some of the bits ive done so far, i think i will have finished restoring the front suspenion by the end of this coming week, i will do the crossmember aswell, anything else fubbared. a few bits off the front now done..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/refurbfrontsusp1.jpg
if anyone has a suspension rubber that the springs sit on, i may have lost mine, id appreciate paying someone for a pair.
Driftin_AW
27-01-2006, 23:06
oooh it's all pretty :gayfight: First time I changed my shocks/springs I painted the struts up all nicely, but by the 3rd pair I was sick of painting so now mine look pretty average :(
oooh it's all pretty :gayfight: First time I changed my shocks/springs I painted the struts up all nicely, but by the 3rd pair I was sick of painting so now mine look pretty average :(
i just a need a cat to walk over them to finish em off ey :D, except i'll be waiting with large rotweiler in the corner
MegatronUK
28-01-2006, 11:10
oooh.. thats spangly Adam :D
all pieces of the front suspension done; inc lower crossmember, arb, hubs, shocks, tie bars, shock strut bars, suspension mounts, whatever the names, all sorted. the bearings in the top of these shockers were well seized, due to not having any strut caps.. i just washed them right out with wd40, and re-greased them with high load low speed grease, blimey, i bet they hadnt turned for over 5 years!. ive now to re-fit it all into the motor with polybush kit, droplinks and brakes, but before i do that, i'm going to give the arch liners and front underbody a once over, de-crapping, spraying, a bit of oily wax stuff.
heres me new front legs .. :toke: copied johns work, whats good for the goose etc, squark. i laquered over the sticker too , twitch.. :D
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontleg1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontleg2.jpg
p.s thanks for the shock top rubbers paul
Paul Woods
03-02-2006, 06:27
yw mate....those look far too good by the way.
bloody hell adam i hope your not fitting those to your car mate thier far to clean n tidy better send em to me mate ill take good care of them onust guv:eusa_droo:biggrin:
heheh.. sure you would, i guess it will all get shtucky in the end, dosent mean it aint wortha lick of paint to start with, the state of my motor tho im sure is alot worse than most, its done 212,000 miles, had around 8 owners, its been driven allright. hence a bit of attention needed, if i didnt do this stuff it wouldnt be safe to drive :eusa_shif
and while were on the subject, check out my rims :biggrin:, well pleased, 30 quid per wheel blasted and coated. the colour is 1024 powder coat gold whatever the f that is. its a different colour than what my camera pics look like, alot nicer in the flesh. i have to filler those little emblem badges into the centre and pauls going to lick over them & hub caps again once thats done. i think im going to keep them like this, id rather them be flat than to blingy and shiny.. this first pic is the closest likeness of colour.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/azev1a.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/azev3a.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/azev2a.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/azev8a.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/azev11a.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/azev12a.jpg
Nice, I like the centre caps. Did you make those yourself?
superchargedsam
04-02-2006, 16:19
adam i am loving your wheels (would say love your rims but with the dodgy charachters on here i thought best not to) ! looks the mutts and cant wait to see them in the flesh !
Nice, I like the centre caps. Did you make those youself?
yes jasp, limited quantity!, theres some details in high st if your interested. cheers sam , took long enough ey!.. still some 215 and 245 rubbers to get in the next week or so, dreading the bill, hey ho.
superchargedsam
04-02-2006, 16:48
i know what u mean adam, when i get back from my juants gotta get a set of 18s ! Argh !
Yep. Deffo investing in a set of those. Need to buy wheels first though. Got 15's on at the mo but will have to go up in size once the 4 pots are on.
whenever your ready jasper, take your time matey, i'm always lurking about.
18's ey sam, i guess they are for the celica? what width?.. what are you going for brand wise?
i measured my rims across the bare width, the 7.5's are 210mm at the widest point, and the 9's are 245mm at the widest point, im going to go 215/40/16 and 245/35/16 t1-r, the fronts are about a nifty each which is allright, but the rears are double that becuase its the lowest profile (35ar) on 9x16, ive not found any other manufacturers that do the both sizes i want in matching treads which is a bugger, so is going to cost more than i wanted
Paul Woods
04-02-2006, 17:42
that be azev porn.... looks absolutely mint mate,but im biased! I think you will change your mind re making them all deep shiney with my laquer you know,it totally transforms them....they look mint ether way.
superchargedsam
04-02-2006, 17:50
adam currently running 225/40s all round but was never that impressed with them and quite easy to induce 4 wheel drift so might look at something a bit wider or definatly offering more grip than the current bf goodrichs offered as I could often get it sideways which in a 4wd car running uprated lowered uspension is just wrong in my mind !
cheers paul, i reckon i'll probably get a proper laquer jobbie then, just a little, but i like the flat gold colour.
your tyres are going to cost some sam, how many cars you expect to have on the road at once?! one for each day of the week? :biggrin:
:nuts:
superchargedsam
04-02-2006, 18:33
lol want to use the celica when I get back from my travels as the milage is getting to the SC now and the other half does prefer the celica over the SC, the 1.5 will purely be for weekend fun i rekon but will dpend what its like as a daily driver before I make that decision ! and as a bonus I have just persuaded karen into letting me sell her car so i can buy a big truck as long as i promise to sell a bike towards it as well !
so how many miles does the charger have? i dont think ive ever seen it!
superchargedsam
04-02-2006, 18:42
have just turned the corner of 180k but thats in kilometers, its faiurly tidy with one parch of rust "above" the near side rear w.arch and some blebs on front arches ! the handling issue is scaring me but will be under it first thin in the morn to find out what it is ! not done anything to it apart from magnex and ramair panel filter, came with tokicos ! gets fresh oil and filter regularly but think the rings are wearing now so about time it had a holiday ! I will do some pics of the toyota forecourt...erm my drive in the morning if weather is good as I will have to unsheet the t bar for pics !
ok, i stripped the old steering rack bushes, re-bushed, de-crapped, gave a few places a lick of spray hammerite. i'll be fixing up front suspension sand wheels soon. got everything ready, heres the azevs with all the stuff inside, thought i better check it fits before hanging it all up and then sticking wheel on to find it be too small, its allright, plenty of room between inner rim and caliper, infact about 20mm to rim from caliper. but you cant really see in pics.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelsetup1.jpg
i checked out my new extended studs, they fit well with about 3mm sticking clear of bolt. i have about 20 mil of alloy bieng gripped inclusive of taper in top of hole.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelsetup3.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelsetup4.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelsetup2.jpg
superchargedsam
10-02-2006, 23:28
mmm pure art there fella and love the tyres what make and model are they ?
toyo proxes t1-r. they are zr rated.
honestly sam, i searched the four corners, no one had a thing, very few manufactures do the size. stitched up really as the fronts were only 55 quid each. the rears, double. on the cc!, not told missus she would castrate the remaning one. if i did it agiain id go 8 at the rear as 225's are much more widespread. still you go for these things dont ya.(sucker)
great, i have now finished rebuilding the front suspension, and the wheels, i splashed everything in black hammerite, arches / all the suspension components and all the underbody components too, up to the heater matrix pipes!, i then sealed all in with some oily-wax. the front bulkhead thing needs a touch welding at the plug holes so i'll do that when i fit the battery tray. its all fitted, polybushes inc. i'll get it tracked and camber set properly later.
the next step is to roll her out the garage and throw them big pieces of trash toyota call wings in the skip, ive been waiting to trash the wings for such along time, it will be a huge burden dropped :beer: this is the beginning of simply preparing the front for fitting my new arches, modelling the flares needed, fitting new bonnet, and eurosport spolier if possible.
1. wheel painting & tyres (done).
2. suspension clean/paint/re-bush (done).
3. re-fit suspension / wheels, set camber roughly square.(done)
4. roll out of garage, replace ONE new wing temporarily, remove spolier, tape up eurosport one roughly. model flared arch with cardboard if needed. then remove doors & wings / skirts / bumper / bonnet / lights / bumper bar, knock all loose rust off.
5. roll back in garage, jack up, remove wheels.
6. send out wings if arch flare needed @ front, to tin bashers for very handy portable arch fabrication (one good thing, the bolt on wings)
7. send bumper bar out for sand blasting.
8. rub down rusty parts, treat with rust eating solution / prime / filla /
9. check front end over, filla / repair / re-prime as necessary.
10. hammerite the bumper bar any other bits i want done inside front. <---what paint is good on chasis inside?
11. re-fit bumper bar & bumper
12. re-fit new bonnet (leave lights out for access to wing screws later).
13. take fabricated front wings and prepare inside faces with?? <--help
14.. This will move onto the mid section including cutting and welding & repairing a/b pillar rust
a small problem i had with fitting the high & tight drop links is they were about 20mm too long and they would have hit the lower legs. so, i nipped them back to the workshop yesterday and cut / re-threaded one end of each. i took off 40mm to be sure, this gives me around 25mm clearence of the tip of the rod end clevis from the lower leg.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/droplinklength.jpg
this is where im going to put it
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/droplinkhold.jpg
someone will notice my drop link at the bottom is the opposite way round from normal, i had loctited the threads and torqued them up in my workshop, i wasnt about to go back and do it all again, twas late in the day!.. and i dont think it matters which way round they are, mine sits at a slight angle to the shocker now which i can live with. bout 25mm clear fromleg, much betterer
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/droplinkspace.jpg
a shot from inside.. ' a hedgehogs eye view ' ... at least they get some eye candy...
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontsuspension.jpg
onto the next part, the wheels are on, they protrude about 25-30mm from the arch lip.. first time round.. they suspension set up looked a bit high?.. i was thinking, shyte.. is that it?.. and jumping up and down on the front end to see if it was all sitting properly..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch1.jpg
jesus thats high? ..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch2.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch3.jpg
see now it dropped 30mm lower .. the car was sitting on the jack at the lowest point, thick twat :icon_eek: .. thats much betterer, the origonal arch curve flows round the wheel with a uniform 20mm gap, now i'm liking that, alot :biggrin: . the wheels are stock RR of 580mm overall. 16's with 215/40 ar. on konis.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch4.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch5.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch6.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch7.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontsuspension/frontarch8.jpg
my front wheels were offset et15 i think with 7.5" width, i added a spacer of 15mm to bring these out to this position, i didnt have to, but it will match better the huge rears sticking out the back end when they are in place, rather than not having the front arches flared.
Paul Woods
19-02-2006, 10:38
adam thats going to look the mutz nutz when you get your arches extended mate,im sure the local pheasants will appreciate the attention to detail under that car! nice droplink mod too!
Driftin_AW
19-02-2006, 10:43
look at all the pretty things....
excellent work Adam, must be time you did some work on the big hole in the middle of the car by now!?
^^ image prostitution.
i'd guess you be talking about the engine?.. erm.. its really tough waiting... but theres more work to be done on the body & suspension than there is the engine running, so im doing the dirty work first. tight plan until jae.. hopefully, legs crossed, fingers, eyes.. :freak3:
i'd be sorting exhaust & intercooler bits in the background.
I can't wait to see this finished adam, its looking real good, the Azev's look the dogs danglies, I can see why they are so sought after.... :eusa_clap well played that man :beer:
been following this thread with interest..its looking lurvly mate..those wheels are indeed muttous nuttous..
(btw frigged your wheel so it goes all the way round..was starting to annoy me..http://twobrutal.co.uk/forumfiles/azev5.gif)
could you frig me sig then pls cap' :beer: im going to change it soon for some fresh eye candy
wikedy wikedy whak..
most ppl wont know why you were/are known as the phantom poster..so better get rid..
Gary Symons
19-02-2006, 18:46
^^ image prostitution.
i'd guess you be talking about the engine?.. erm.. its really tough waiting... but theres more work to be done on the body & suspension than there is the engine running, so im doing the dirty work first. tight plan until jae.. hopefully, legs crossed, fingers, eyes.. :freak3:
i'd be sorting exhaust & intercooler bits in the background.
All looks like it is coming along nicely, I am with you on getting all the messy bits done first. I will hopefully be droping the engine back in mine next weekend, its been hell waiting but i just couldnt put my nice clean engine into a dirty car.:smile:
wikedy wikedy whak..
most ppl wont know why you were/are known as the phantom poster..so better get rid..
wha? whos the phantom poster? arggghhh, ive never seen that siggy before.. it wasnt me...
i'll sort it, tis a bit dated :old:
So why are you the phantom poster then.... please, indulge me :icon_cool
it isnt me... i dont know what its all about?
:rasp:
alreet, its an issue i had with forgetting to log in on most days, before the times of cookie log in i believe, when guest accounts were abled to post without logging in etc.
sad to see it go!.. ta ta
i'll have to knock something up soon, that was niks handywork, a masterpiece no less, it looks bare now.. :eusa_snoo
hmm, little more work, old wing off, new wing on temporarily, i'll be studying and trying hand at some archigami for a few days to model arches. i have about 33mm between arch and tyre uniformly around the arch, is that normal for koni and stock RR?, will it do for clearence issues.. how much am i aiming for with respect to working suspenison clearence?, the inside tyre line or offset type thing i think is the same as the stock mk1, all except for 5mm closer to the shock.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelarch1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelarch2.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/wheelarch3.jpg
theres some rust to tackle aswell, usual place, bottom of a pillar, i knew about this, and i know there is some more at the seam further up the pillar. i'll be abled to see when the door comes of, first arch model, all help appreciated with shapes and sizes and .. input :mrgreen:
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/frontarchrust2.jpg
lodgeman
23-02-2006, 01:23
adam ! check your camber etc before you make the arches just in case it alters much and the you will have an over size arch!!:shifty:
Paul Woods
23-02-2006, 07:08
tricky adam,its hard to know how much arch clearance to leave for working suspension travel,ive just gone for about 30mm all round,it the wheels hit the arches on compression i guess i will wind the konis up a bit or change springs or fettle the arch lip...something like that.
adam ! check your camber etc before you make the arches just in case it alters much and the you will have an over size arch!!:shifty:
yes, your right al, i better had make myself one of those camber adjusting widgets this weekend and check them. how would i do the tracking ?
i literally ripped off the old front valence, ive mock fitted the spoiler, although, i shall have to work on it properly so that it sits up against the nose cone properly, currently about a 8mm gap from nosecone to spoiler, i think with work, it will sit sit a few millimetres away from full contact; run it by me once more... , im going to fix this thing up with brackets and nuts and bolts and reinforcing bars and stuff,, what am i going to use to blend this spoiler into my arches and the front face of the car..
just a ref pic,
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/spoiler1e.jpg
lodgeman
23-02-2006, 23:49
yes, your right al, i better had make myself one of those camber adjusting widgets this weekend and check them. how would i do the tracking ?
take a line - mid wheel height( sill height) and measure the distance away from the car at the front and the rear of the sill. make sure that the distance away from the car is the same front and rear( can be done with a lazer line if you want) extend the line past the wheels and the measure the distance at the front of the rim and the rear of the rim to get toe in/out . saw a race team do that at le mans except that they had made attachment to the car all the way around the car and just put a line on those points and measured from the line!
( can be done with a lazer line if you want)
i think the budget allows for shoe laces tied together and an old yard stick:mrgreen:. i like that idea lodge, cant see it bieng too wrong at-all, mil or two at best, im going to have a go at that one, and make me some little towers to hold the string at equidistant from the sills or similar. do we know what toe in out i am looking for?.. i would assume dead square?
A little toe in would be good iirc, bout 2mm.
boondougal
24-02-2006, 10:58
Im going to write a simple short thread on my progress
Have to say this thread is like gold dust to those of us who will be embarking on the road to rust reduction in the next fre months...but i had to laugh a little when i read adams opening line.....:boogie: :boogie: :blabla:
this has to be one of the longest threads around!!
Great stuff though, keep it up :clap: :clap:
:doh: aye, a long thread, and there might even be some body work in it!... in the coming few weeks, most of the time so far has spent restoring the suspension.. all relevant hints and tips etc. body work to follow...:blabla:
tad more.. i fitted the new bonnet not for any other reason than to free up some space in my garage.. the rats were complaining. the little washer jets on top, would not come out easily, i lost patience and ripped them out in the end, they only need to come out so i could un-attatch the water feed pipes from them. im looking at new washer jets now.
oh..my bonnet was a mrT piece according to the mrT sticker underneath? god knows, i always thought it was a patterned one, which is what t gladding told me when i nabbed it off her a good few years back. fits like a glove, bolt on bolt off etc, no hard task. im just piecing bits on, i shall have to set camber and front tracking before origami. oh, and also fettle the spolier flashing so it fits a bit better. can see paul cringing at my gapping.. its just roughly fixed paul dont worry... 8O
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/bonnetfitted.jpg
Paul Woods
26-02-2006, 09:14
no no that looks perfect mate :liar: lol j/k looking at the area where the arch will meet the front spoiler that should blend in nicely to give a pleasing shape to it,this is one of the problems im having,making the mahusive front arches blend into a spoiler of sorts.Good progress though mate although i fear the rats have now moved from their old home under the bonnet into the new des res gennybox!
did some more work on the spoiler, it had alot of flashing which was preventing its proper fit, so i used tools; grinder / mask / goggles & bastard file, which worked rather well in that order.chears podge/john. To take the flashing off the middle thin bit i had to grind literally 10mm off!, took me about 45 minutes to go round it with grinder, and a file to finish off. eyes ears nose full of fibre glass, ths stuff stinks when ground. ref some old pics:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2006/01/52.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2006/01/52.jpg
and after eating glass dust for a while:
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/euro1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/euro2.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/euro3.jpg
so it needs some more work, but that will be finishing work, little filla here and there, some rubbing down and stuff, later. it fits nicely now around the car in general.. but the front section does not sit flush yet, quick question.. i'm guessing im going to take off the metal strip under the nose cone that stops the spoiler from sitting flush on it? and fix it straight into the nosecone & front bumpy bar... with self tapers through lenghts of support bar/ bolts / whatever..etc.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/gap1.jpg
Paul Woods
04-03-2006, 08:41
yes i would adam,or cut the spoiler so it sits around the bar...but if you remove it your bumper skin wont be attached to the crossmember but your new spoiler brackets should cure that when they are screwed up into it.
now, was it dead level at the front and 3mm inclusive on the rear? for toe in.
Paul Woods
11-03-2006, 08:58
well thats what i set them at,some say 1* toe in at the front but parallel does it for me mate,3-5mm inc. toe in on the rear
the garage im in has a 1 degree slant, no problem i just accounted for that when taking readings and adjusting. the camber is set now, as far as im aware, its 1 degree negative each side (leaning in at top), its suprising how much difference it makes, as stated earlier, 1 degree = 7.1mm over 16". and my little camber nuts were all over the place. I find the camber nut lugs are both now sitting at about the quarter to five 'o' clock position. (downwards)
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/camber1.jpg
i also knocked up a quik tracking tool as per alans idea.
quick question, i did not undo my track rod ends when stripping the suspension, so the tracking should not have changed??
and what is the purpose of the arm that go's from under the hub, to further up underneath the chasis and attatching to a suspension mount?.. does this have anything to do with the track?, as i did undo & rebuild these parts, so the nut settings are long lost.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/trackingtool.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/tracking1.jpg
lodgeman
13-03-2006, 21:49
those bars are called the tie bars and they alter the caster angles, caster helps in the selfcentering of the steering rack, the correct caster angles are in the manual- i dont know what they are off the top of my head!:hehe:
must admit i am liking the tracking system you made! so much better than a piece of string attached to to wheel ramps!!!!!!!!
you suprise me al!, tell me how to do it, then tell me you used wheel ramps!.. :naughty: :mrgreen: still, no difference is there, just some taught string.
hmm castor angles, that be the 'castor effect' eh, where the wheels self centre like shopping trolleys or to that essence.. on centre.
your tie rods al, have you changed form the origonal setting?? can i ask a mighty favour of someone.. if i had the measurement from tie rod nut (the back face) to one of the threads that go's thru the hub :mrgreen: save me messing with castor angles aswell. i have the mk1 book but i didnt read it.. and it says measure your tie rod between nut & hub before stripping .. :mrgreen:
lodgeman
13-03-2006, 22:45
i didnt alter my front nut so mine should'nt have changed too much! will measure in the morning for you- you have even shamed me into buying a measuring stick!!!! ebay purchase of course!:)
you do realise that most cars are different though?
you do realise that most cars are different though?
in a word no, ive not buggered with such components before, so total novice . i would have thought they would be the same, but then my brains one track digits im afraid. 1+1+2 :shifty: ....
your setting, has got to be better than mine, as mine is non-existent, so it'll do nicely plus explanation :pray: ....
Whoa!.. a guessing stick has been purchased!! nice one alan, you will find it your new best friend, you can read it with one eye or both .. brilliant things :mrgreen:
*edit, for a moment there i thought you had bought a vernier caliper... after re-reading your post, it appears u have purchased a handy tea spoon / knife fork combi tool & pro fly swatter :moon:
lodgeman
14-03-2006, 02:05
Whoa!.. a guessing stick has been purchased!! nice one alan, you will find it your new best friend, you can read it with one eye or both .. brilliant things :mrgreen:
*edit, for a moment there i thought you had bought a vernier caliper... after re-reading your post, it appears u have purchased a handy tea spoon / knife fork combi tool & pro fly swatter :moon:
a "digital " one at that!!!!!!!:whistle: with imperial measurements:naughty:
lodgeman
14-03-2006, 18:33
well i done me measuring job on me tie bars and.........
from the bottom arm to the start of the nut is .....
on the white/silver one 337mm
on the helios blue one 330 mm
helpful?rotflmao
it gives me a ball park figure to work with, anyone else got their's i can get a better average. later on will take to alignment man
i'll go closer to the 330 as mine is a helios 'g' reg too, suspension may have changed since d reg white/silver. all estimations (wild guesses) so im going to go 75%ish bias to the 330.. (sad but true)
332.
very helpful al, :mrgreen:
with any luck, i can bugger around with cardboard this weekend, just to get a general idea of what i'm looking for.
what stuff do i need to seamlessly join bumper nose cone to top lip of spoiler? (silkaflex??.. where can i get some pls, halfrauds does not seem to have and there isnt much else down here!) .. i dont need yet, but im buying stuff in.
have tub of fibral ready for top arch lining, and some p38 for cosmetic. i think im going to go with cuting bottom arch lip off.. then slits in the arch like you said paul, then bending them up to a nice uniform profile.. and tacking assorted pieces of arch around the to make a complete arch , u know what i mean. then joining the two pieces (top & bottom of arch) with that body repair metal braid stuff. overlaying with fibral, cosmetic with fila, jobbie done (sounds easy :naughty: )
or, i may go with a complete arch, just slicing old arch off and underlaying wing with new arch, tacking from above.. easier to blend.. hmm..
David Sleith
16-03-2006, 06:49
Try your local yacht chandlers. They might have some as my local shop stocked it when I was on the hunt for fertran rust treatment.
They normally sell all sorts of strange stuff for bonding fibreglass and rust treatments.
cheers david, will be looking shortly. I allready have some fibral.. will that not do for joining gaps?
paul.. or anyone.. what is that stuff 'seam-sealer' that you put on welds, why use it? where to get, how to apply? is it needed?.. im thinking of tiny tack welds on my arches, and welding patches in general on car, including the exhaust mounts.
lodgeman
17-03-2006, 22:37
try this place
http://www.frost.co.uk/result_search.asp
they have most things
Paul Woods
18-03-2006, 07:43
seam sealer keeps the water out,use it on the underside of your arch not on the outside and all will be well.
o.k, im having issues with bodywork, its scaring the hell out of me looking at the work needed. if its any better i have all new panels to work with on the front, wings / bonnet / spoiler. that should ease the refurbishment load some.
heres what i have;
FIBRAL
P38
SAND BLOCK + VARIOUS GRADE PADS
PRIMER
SEAM SEALER ON WAY.
i have a portable powerful genny arranged from a mate with a mig welder for the tacking / welding work, thats coming next week.
so where am i going to start?.. i think the first thing to do is draw a curve around the arch maybe 1" after the arch curve, uniformly all the way, and slice it off with an angle grinder, what you reckon? right to the bottom of the arches?..
on a related note before i forget..when you come to weld on the new arches, make sure the bundle of wires that run through the body and over the OSR arch are out of the way as you may set light to them/melt them (delete as applicable) when welding..
yep an inch above and angle grinder all the way..though i had to chop off the front and rear bottom sections too and then weld all three pieces on and trim them to fit..total pig of a jobbie..those panels from mk1mr2club were not as good a fit as i had hoped..
yup, i have a rear quarter from jdg in scarborough to fit at back, a complete rear valence to fab, and the rear flares.. woooooo (trying to sound enthusiastic).. i look at it this way, its the bodywork thats holding me back so i just have to shut the hole and get on with it, my forte or not.
i'm studying the front flares at the moment, i'll have to stare / prod at them for a few days until i get an idea of what im going to fab with sheet metal. the cuts, the pieces needed, the angles.. blending the flares to the eurosport.. eeeek. soldier on
keeping busy where poss.. just set my chicken caps into the azev centre caps, they fit just so, pretty flush. note the crap finish on powder coated centre caps.. the wheels are A1, the hub caps were shy*e , i'm going to go over these with 600 grit or so. used some simple p38 for the gaps, and worlds strongest glue!...araldite.. to stick the buggers in there. finishing req'd
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/cap1.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/cap2.jpg
Paul Woods
26-03-2006, 08:31
def going to blend mine after looking at that mate,much cleaner.
ive been hunting for one of these for ages.. there was one outside my old flat but i resisted approaching owner for purchasing!. its from a subaru legacy turbo, the hooge front bonnet scoop, its very wide, just about right to cover my 24" ic from end to end.. so the ducting from cooler upto trunk lid will be straight and easy.. the slot is about 50mm wide too..so plenty good for airflow out reverse. it fits on the trunk lid very well too sitting just infront of the spoiler mounts back to an inch or two short of the lid front, the top of it sits at the bottom of the spolier profle, perfickt :mrgreen: . 17 quid from lodges haunt. i should get round to more work over w/e.. and commencing, tons of stuff to do
old pic..
158
i had a pop at the scoop, its not perfect.. it's a tricky mount as the scoop is wider than the dipped profile in the mk1 trunk lid.
I first brutalised a hole, i then cut two 8x20 mild steel lengths to run across the gap, one mounts under the lid support frame (screwed), the other i welded on and with feet to raise the bar above some of the trunk supports. i have bolted the scoop on, used loctite on stainless steel bolts and nuts, the scoop has about 7 fixing points where you can slide a caphead screw in and it retains it in a little pocket type thing.. well handy, just use nuts the other end. i had to drill 2 holes in the rear trunk support bar.. just to hold the other bar. very easy job, and my first real bodywork attempt ! as you can tell. dont mind the welds.. they are strong.. just er...
i used seam sealer like filla to cover my shoddy welding :mrgreen:
and have yet to do the cosmetic work, i.e; tidying up metal
, filla, blending it in with boot, removing visuals etc, then i guess smoothing & prime. will be finished in the next night or so.
one bad thing i have to say about the legacy scoop.. its 98% perfect.. just two raised lumps in the front of the scoop at the bottom..which are soft enough to push down.. but i'll leave them be and blend them in as best i can to the trunk.
where its going..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop1a.jpg
rear screwed fixing bar..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop2.jpg
nuts in from underneath..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop3.jpg
front bar feet to clear trunk support
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop5.jpg
:snooty: :boogie: anyone else think there welding is shy*e, you have been redeemed! :
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop7.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop8.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop6.jpg
scoop wont be coming loose thats for sure :hmm:
ive got extra tapped holes in the bars, so i can fix some IC ducting to later.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop9.jpg
the existing subaru mount slots with capheads thru the bars, v handy.
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop10.jpg
slight taper where the trunk profile dips, cant do much about that easily, it should be allright with blending, hardly noticeable once painted and glossed, you wont have a chance to study it :roll: ..more for the matter.. the top of the scoop is just blocked out from the rear with the origonal spoiler.. so you cant see it anyway..
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop11.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop12.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop13.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/scoop/scoop14.jpg
you havent mounted it very well on the clio mate..what a bodge..!
David Sleith
17-04-2006, 19:30
With a little more welding and a ton of fibral it will make a nice chav roof spoiler on the clio :rofl:
superchargedsam
17-04-2006, 22:10
LOL@David and nik !
u callin me a chav?.. that roof spolier is good for 50hp more..
superchargedsam
17-04-2006, 22:26
adam stop pissing about with bodywork and get them turbos sorted as got a list of tubby work waiting ;)
lodgeman
17-04-2006, 22:38
u callin me a chav?.. that roof spolier is good for 50hp more..
that will make it a 55hp car then?:hmm: :)
adam stop pissing about with bodywork and get them turbos sorted as got a list of tubby work waiting ;)
:hoarder:
55hp .... 55mpg, pucker up.. :mrgreen: :moon:
i'll have to space that dip up, i fear a lamb to the slaughter if left.
Paul Woods
18-04-2006, 06:59
first thing you need to do is get an airgun and shoot them crows that live in the rafters of your garage....they appear to be shitting on your welds... lol only jokin mate,scoop looks really good and will look fantastic painted up.
that was the good weld :whistle:
paul, you recommend any type of primer that i can get off the shelf in a tin? ive prepped a car before and been told by the bodyshop the paint didnt stick too well. im using halfrauds primer at the moment just to show the spots that need doing etc.. any recommendations.. or will it do?
Paul Woods
19-04-2006, 08:24
theres a high build stuff that i use,it comes out like spray putty and really takes the hard work out of it...i will get the makers name today or if you cant get any down there i will send you a pack of tins down....only negative to this stuff is it needs 24hrs drying between flattening,so i usually do all my flattening then last thing at night high build prime it all ready for wet flatting the next day.
lodgeman
19-04-2006, 08:32
i,ve bought some high build primer in a can and it is totally s**t, thinner than primer a comes out splodgy!! will post the name to avoid!
nickwebb
19-04-2006, 12:24
lodgeman, try warming the can up first i usually get a bucket of hot water and let the can float around in it for 5 mins before spraying,
Paul Woods
19-04-2006, 17:23
right the stuff i use is from hycote and its a yellow high build primer,superb stuff,couldnt work without it....trying to find a net link to it...
superchargedsam
19-04-2006, 17:34
yellow isnt that what the original 1.5 was done in eh paul ;)
Paul Woods
19-04-2006, 17:44
F.o :)
superchargedsam
19-04-2006, 17:52
But paul I thought you liked high build primer yellow ! ;)
lmao@sam..i just laughed so much i spat a mouthfull of ginger nut out..(the biscuit)
Paul Woods
19-04-2006, 18:10
you can very quickly go off someone y'know :)
superchargedsam
19-04-2006, 18:18
LOL ! personally I thought the yellow was most subtle indeedy !
Paul Woods
19-04-2006, 18:20
for a shade of monkey puke maybe....lesson learnt!
superchargedsam
19-04-2006, 18:23
LOL@ monkey puke comment !
hycote.. i shall search for it.. or just ask for a can of monkey puke.
halfrauds sell 'u-pol' heard of that?
Paul Woods
20-04-2006, 07:02
ive no experience of u-pols primer,some of these primers come out like piss water...the hycote stuff takes all the hard work out of getting rid of the imperfections.
Quick google:
http://www.motortraders.com/xcart/catalog/product_17286_HYCOTE_BASICS__PRIMERS_400ml.html
http://www.motosave.co.uk/html/hycote_paint.html
Paul Woods
20-04-2006, 17:59
cheers john....the one with the yellow cap is what i use a lot...
http://www.motosave.co.uk/assets/images/primers.jpg
ta very much. i'll possibly get me some... would it be right to assume not to bother going fine grade paper until i have this high build stuff on?.. would i apply it as a full coat on the trunk and then work it all? or just areas with hair line scratches and little tiny chips and the likes?.. ive done most of them allready with filla.. ive only done 120 grit so far.. iv'e got 240/400/600/800.. i'll get up to 800 before she comes to your workshop paul
so a whole coat with this stuff?
few more shots , few hours graft left
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/trunklid2.jpg
http://www.adamhutchison.co.uk/graphics/trunklid1.jpg
lodgeman
20-04-2006, 22:38
yes put some high build on first the another couple of coats of grey primer. leave to dry and then put on a guide coat of another colour. this will show up all the high/low points. you can fill any larger holes / digs/scratches with a cellulose putty and then rub down again with a guide coat!dont forget to use a block or the very flat of your hand as you can inadvertantly put grooves in the paint.also if you put some washing up liquid in the rubbing down water it will be easier!you will end up using 1200 paper to really finish off with
Paul Woods
21-04-2006, 07:12
like alan says really,work down the grades...i use the filler primer on just the repairs or anywhere theres scratches/chips..and when its dry (24hrs) i wet flat with 800 ,if the whole car is 800 wet flatted it will be good enough for basecoat not to show up any scratches.
cheers all, excellent advice. i shall get some on order, and get on with other bits until it arrives.
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