View Full Version : Pauls Big Brake upgrade kit question
Singularity
07-07-2009, 21:49
Hi,
I've gotten everything that Paul used in the Big Brake upgrade guide:
ST205 front calipers,
ST205 discs that has been drilled and machined and spaced to fit MK1 hub,
MKII turbo rear calipers,
Corrado G60 discs that needed spacers, but holes was ok.
I have all the bolts and the 2mm washers and I'm ready to weld the carriers to 131mm and have the whole thing put on the car in 10 days when I get vacation start..
But there was this thing I read in MR2-Only magazine..
If the front calipers have more fluid running to them, as I do with 2 piston ST205 vs rears with only 1 piston, then the rears will tend to block the wheels according to fluid transfer rates stated in the magazine..
Questions:
1. What do I do to perportion the fluids, so I have the fronts to block first ?
2. Do I have to install the MKII turbo master or slave brake cylinders, or is stock 86 good enough ?
Kind Regards
John from Denmark
Gary Symons
07-07-2009, 22:03
On my mk1.5 I ran st205's up front and mk2 mr2 22v's on the rear and never locked the rear brakes.
http://www.mr2mk1turbo.co.uk/diary33.htm
http://www.mr2mk1turbo.co.uk/diary34.htm
http://www.mr2mk1turbo.co.uk/photos/forsale/10.jpg
I did have the mk2 brake cylinder fitted. I think Paul used the mk1 cylinder on his first swap (will wait for him to confirm)
Paul Woods
08-07-2009, 07:08
I ran this set up for over a year on my 1.5 and never once locked the rears, all the car would do is stop incredibly quickly, almost an ABS type feel to the braking, absolutely amazing brakes.... don't always trust everything you read.
robwsurf
08-07-2009, 07:30
paul do you think if we use the 22v caliper s on back with the mk3 discs it will be ok or out of balance with the st205s on the front
Paul Woods
08-07-2009, 07:44
I think it will be spot on rob, but that's only based on my personal experience of this brake upgrade on a 1.5.... it was perfect.
Singularity
10-07-2009, 09:47
I don't know if it has v22 stamp on them. They were taken off of the clip I had. It was a 96 rear clip.
So, Paul, you confirm that I don't need to invest in a MK2 brake master cylinder ?
Some people say it will feel mooshy. I just want to be as prepared as possible, so if I can avoid changing the BMC, and can use the stock 86 BMC and slave for that matter, I'll be 100% ready to change the brakesystem around.
I should have everything needed and ofc steel braided hoses also.
I just want a bit of certainty that I can actually drive away safely after making the swap :D
Kind Regards
John
Paul Woods
10-07-2009, 16:47
I just had the mk1a MC on mine and all it did was sink lower to the floor before working (more pistons to feed) , so adding the mk2 15/16th's MC should rectify that.
snowtigger
10-07-2009, 18:20
Cheers for the info Paul as I willneed this done for the big brake upgrade.
Singularity
25-07-2009, 09:59
Hi guys ;D
I was going to get the brackets welded today, but the guy said he had to go to his former place of work to get some form of sticks for cast iron welding.
What kind of welding did you use to weld your brackets ?
Kind Regards
John
Paul Woods
25-07-2009, 14:30
It's not cast though, so Mig will do :thumbsup:
I was given turbo calipers when I brought my 3sgte, will these do for my rear brakes?
If it's for the mk2 there's no difference between tubby and n/a brakes just rev1 and rev2
Singularity
31-07-2009, 18:01
Hi again,
I was told that cause of the weight difference and the initia in the discs + the added weight from the calipers - I'll lose 20 whp.. is that true ?
Singularity
27-08-2009, 14:50
noone knows this ?
Hi again,
I was told that cause of the weight difference and the initia in the discs + the added weight from the calipers - I'll lose 20 whp.. is that true ?
youll never lose power because of mass. some people like to talk about weight and equate it to power, but its nonsense. more weight just means it takes longer to get everything moving. youve got the same power output, but more mass, so it will take longer for it to reach its top speed. once its upto speed it is then harder to slow down. in other words, the heavier something is, the more resistant it is to a change of state. which is basically what inertia is.
the caliper weight is negligible, maybe 1kg per caliper max, i think its actually more like 300-500 grams, the ST205 calipers are aluminium and fixed compared to the sliding steel calipers as stock. the discs are mega heavy by comparison though, and larger diameter. they will make a small difference to acceleration, theyll make much more difference to the unsprung weight and handling though. but its still negligible, i doubt youll physically feel the difference.
snowtigger
27-08-2009, 19:00
Apart from standing the car on it's nose I think that's the main differance as the standard brakes are shite at stoping if they have been neglected for several years, thank god for tb and people willing to uprate to proper stoppers.
Diesel Meister
27-08-2009, 21:45
Still waiting to hear from WMS about a kit for the front. I'm assuming that with uprated fronts I'll need:
- MkII rear calipers / discs?
- MkII M/C?
to compliment the extra stopping power? I guess the size difference isn't as big as with the ST205s but still...
with the WMS setup you probably wont need to change the master cylinder, the piston sizes have been spec'd to suit the stock one. im waiting for them to take shipment of calipers as well. hopefully they are imminent, apparently the shipping company messed up and its delayed things for what seems like forever, but is probably more like 2 weeks lol.
im going to compliment my proposed front setup with 22V rears on mk1 discs (not going to bother with the giant Corrado upgrade). my front setup should be WMS calipers with bell mounted discs! looking like around 12kg total weight for the front brakes, 6kg a side. about a 40% unsprung weight saving on the brakes alone iirc. couple that with the suspension when i eventually build myself a set of ohlins and that should knock 20% off the suspension side of things..
Diesel Meister
27-08-2009, 22:47
Cool. Keri knows I'm interested. I can't fit them until PW starts work on the conversion anyway (hopefully in the next couple of months, time and transatlantic shipping permitting), as I'll need at least 15in-16in wheels. I'll cry off the ohlins for now lol
keri-WMS
28-08-2009, 13:52
Sorry guys! :blush:
They are supposed to be here today, but no sign of FedEx yet. At least I can see from the online tracking that they are in the UK, have left the airport and are in the semi-local FedEx depot.
Sometimes they just deliver them, sometimes they send me a letter telling me to pay the import / VAT before they can let me have them!
What's p--ed me off though is I can also see on the tracking that the calipers which I was TOLD were shipped over a month ago seem to have been shipped late last week. :banghead:
Singularity
02-09-2009, 22:08
youll never lose power because of mass. some people like to talk about weight and equate it to power, but its nonsense. more weight just means it takes longer to get everything moving. youve got the same power output, but more mass, so it will take longer for it to reach its top speed. once its upto speed it is then harder to slow down. in other words, the heavier something is, the more resistant it is to a change of state. which is basically what inertia is.
...., i doubt youll physically feel the difference.
well.. that's my point.. it'll not "lose power" I know.. but it will feel like I lost power, cause of the inertia..
btw, isn't this also the exact reason why we change from stock to Light weight flywheel ?.. to reduce inertia - and not "gain power" but make it Feel like we gained power ?.. aka making the car faster in 0-60 and quartermiles and so on..
What I'm getting at, is, will the upgraded brakes not indeed make the car slower ?.. I'm not caring for the "lost power" or feel of lost power, or how you want to put it, I'm just curious about how much it feels like losing compared to stock mk1a brakes because I'm discussing it with friends in my country.
snowtigger
02-09-2009, 22:41
No it will not make the car slower if you uprate the disks maybe infinetesimal because of the extra weight of the disks, but the benefit will be going slower when the brakes are aplied as the stock mk1 brakes are crap any upgrade to enhance the brakes is better, than stock st165 which is twin piston and fits straight onto stock disks are 100% better over stock.
well.. that's my point.. it'll not "lose power" I know.. but it will feel like I lost power, cause of the inertia..
btw, isn't this also the exact reason why we change from stock to Light weight flywheel ?.. to reduce inertia - and not "gain power" but make it Feel like we gained power ?.. aka making the car faster in 0-60 and quartermiles and so on..
What I'm getting at, is, will the upgraded brakes not indeed make the car slower ?.. I'm not caring for the "lost power" or feel of lost power, or how you want to put it, I'm just curious about how much it feels like losing compared to stock mk1a brakes because I'm discussing it with friends in my country.
acceleration works both ways. 0-60 is all well and good, but youll always make up more time in the 60-0 deceleration ;) ST205 brakes slow you down quicker, they hinder the acceleration by a much lesser margin. the overall effect is a performance GAIN. its a trade off, everything with cars almost always is.
Yeah I agree with what Jim said, even though the car may feel a little slower you should be able to brake a lot later so apart from the accelerating side of things it will probably feel like you are driving faster if you brake later into corners etc. I personally can't wait to get my ST205's on with my Vito front disc setup(save a teeny bit of weight on the GT4 discs)! Almost done just waiting on a few bits. :thumbsup:
ive got no issues on my brake weights now. got my WMS setup ordered ;) thin vented rotors mounted on ally bells, weight should be somewhere around 6.5-7kg per side!
Singularity
27-09-2009, 09:01
Ok, thanks for the answers.
I have yet another question though. I was talking to my brother about it, and the MOT dude said that if the car brakes to fast, that will be an issue also.
AKA, if it's winter time, and you brake with the stock or other small diameter discs, the car will need more pressure to the pedal before blocking the wheels. So with big effective brakes, the pedal has less travel before blocking, and is therefore harder to control and the risk of crashing will increase. So, due to larger diameter and therefore more friction to the discs in less time and with less pressure, this causes more danger to yourself and others.
I can't say I know enough about it, but it was what we discussed, and I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.
You'll get used to the new brakes over the old ones and adjust your braking force accordingly, this means you'll be able touse them to the same effort normally as the originals, then the extra braking effort gets used when needed on that fast road. Emergencies are emergencies, they lock up , they lock up!
if you run the same size master cylinder though with calipers that have a substantially larger piston area then the end result is a longer brake pedal with a less direct feel to it. so actually it has more travel before locking wheels. you do have to modulate the braking better though. if you stamp on the brakes in wet conditions then youll lock the wheels easier, but the whole point is that you dont need to. youve got more braking force so you can afford to be more gentle. the risk of crashing is entirely down to driving ability. the brakes, if used correctly, will stop the car more efficiently than the stock setup. thats an increase in safety. but ONLY if used correctly.
Singularity
04-10-2009, 10:08
ive got no issues on my brake weights now. got my WMS setup ordered ;) thin vented rotors mounted on ally bells, weight should be somewhere around 6.5-7kg per side!
Ok, thanks, I'll remember that, and for the last question I guess,
Are there sets of brake discs that are lighter than the one-piece set that I've got ?.. I have the st205 front calipers and the stock mk2 turbo v22 rear calipers. All my brake discs are the same as in the guide.
If there are better sets than 300mm across / 30mm wide, and 280mm across / 22mm wide. Both vented. Could you link your WMS ? (don't know what it stands for)
keri-WMS
04-10-2009, 12:55
Could you link your WMS ? (don't know what it stands for)
Here's the WMS thread: http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=3450
Stands for Works MotorSport!
Ok, thanks, I'll remember that, and for the last question I guess,
Are there sets of brake discs that are lighter than the one-piece set that I've got ?.. I have the st205 front calipers and the stock mk2 turbo v22 rear calipers. All my brake discs are the same as in the guide.
If there are better sets than 300mm across / 30mm wide, and 280mm across / 22mm wide. Both vented. Could you link your WMS ? (don't know what it stands for)
there probably arent brake discs that fit those exact calipers that are any lighter, theyll be the same size, and cast iron is cast iron.
the only way to get the disc weight down is to run thinner discs, or mount the discs on aluminium bells to remove a large chunk of the cast iron in the middle (or do both, which is what ive opted for). to do that youve got to run suitable calipers for the thickness of disc though. e.g. a full WMS kit.
Diesel Meister
04-10-2009, 16:40
Jim - you're running ally bells?
snowtigger
04-10-2009, 19:57
ding dong.
Jim - you're running ally bells?
yeh, i will be once theyve been made. got the calipers and the rotors already, just need to get the bells made up and fit them.
Diesel Meister
04-10-2009, 22:59
Nice complementary upgrade.
Just ordered my WMS kit :cool:
Singularity
17-01-2010, 19:45
Hey guys..
I got all the parts together.. and now this..
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/01/282.jpg
I thought it said that rims only had to be bigger than 16" .. that was fail..
Anyone knows a brand name for really light weight rims ?.. now that I'm changing rims for obvious reasons anyway. ? Don't have to cost an air plane either, Thanks
Gary Symons
17-01-2010, 19:55
I had similar issues:
http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=15205
snowtigger
17-01-2010, 20:09
I had a similar problem I had to space out my rims to get the wheels to fit with hubcentric spacers to avoid the webbing.
Any wheels you buy check how far the webing goes inside the wheel.
Paul Woods
18-01-2010, 06:44
I thought it said that rims only had to be bigger than 16" .. that was fail..
You have neglected the offset, where it says use 17" rims to clear the caliper that doesn't automatically mean the offset or spoke design is going to allow caliper clearance.
Taken from the big brake article- "After the discs and calipers have been fitted there is just the issue of wheel to caliper clearance, now this i cannot judge on anyone elses car as we all have different aftermarket alloys"
My 17" adikt wheels cleared the caliper face by 1mm and that was after i shaved the word "celica" off the front face. You need to either use a wheel spacer or find a wheel with the correct offset or spoke design that will clear.
i managed to fit mine under 16" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's with about 5mm clearance. it is very dependant on the rim. generally the higher quality the rim (e.g. motorsport brands, like O.Z, Team Dynamics, Compomotive, Rays, etc) the more chance there is of clearance. cheaper wheels and those from the styling brands tend to have more meat to them to compensate for the lesser strength of design and materials. 17's wont necessarily have more clearance than 16's, as most 16's will fit the brakes under them in terms of diameter, its clearance between the caliper and the back of the spokes that is usually the problem.
Team Dynamics are fairly light, but also very good value for money. ultimately Volk are probably the lightest wheel but they are also 3 times the price. i paid £425 for a set of 16x7 Pro Race 1.2's in mk3 fitment (which is the exact same fitment as the mk1). im probably going to sell them as well since i can fit my current brakes under 15's. theyve got a few curb scrapes, but theyre on fairly new Bridgestone rubber.
Singularity
21-01-2010, 21:12
Hey, I'd like to see them.. and buy them if they look alright, but I'm affraid that the shipping cost will kill the deal. I think it was £76 for paul to ship my TD replica lid that he made. So, I don't know how much your rims would cost.
Also: Paul, if you see this.. or anyone else that can answer.. I will need 25 mm spacers if I want to fit my current rims, and I'll need extended bolts,, and I'll have the rims come out and scrape on the sides.. that sounds like a crap idea if I don't roll fenders also.. So, it's probably cheaper just to buy new rims.. light weights.. so I'll compensate a bit for the massive extra weight that those st205 cast iron rotors give me. idk.
Singularity
21-01-2010, 22:48
Volk CE28's
could you elaborate on that please ?.. as I'm having issues with the fitment of the rims I currently have, I'm affraid to buy rims online cause I don't know if they will fit.. I'd really hate it, if I bought £1200-1500 rims that didn't fit..
I've been looking here:
http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/ce28n.htm
I can see that the 17x7.5 has 4x100, but then there is 2 different offsets, and I know Jack about offsets..
Anyway, was it these rims you were talking about ?
John
The CE28's are one of the lightest wheels available ... Volk are a well know make they are expensive.
Am not sure on the Mk1 offsets, though, sorry!
Singularity
21-01-2010, 23:03
I see here, that another had problems with his, but his offset are different than the ones on the internet. They were +33 and +43..
http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=14250&highlight=ce28n
problem is if the webbing on the inside will hit the caliper when turning around..
id probably want £450 for them with Bridgestone tyres fitted (the tyres were £80/each!) plus shipping. and shipping to Denmark is £110 for the set, which is fairly steep. they look like this...
http://www.teamilluminata.com/Shop/TeamDynamics/PR12silver.jpg
mine look like that, plus a few fairly large scrapes around the outsides. the 195/45 tyres dont offer much rim protection on them and about a week after fitting them i dropped off a kerb at too shallow an angle and a couple of the rims just caught the edge on the way down and scraped. i think i did the same thing on the other side a few weeks later lol. theyre definitely not in perfect condition, but theyre about £450-500 for the rims new, then another £250-350 on decent tyres. if you were in the UK it would be a better deal, the shipping is going to kill it i think.
keri-WMS
22-01-2010, 16:13
id probably want £450 for them with Bridgestone tyres fitted (the tyres were £80/each!) plus shipping. and shipping to Denmark is £110 for the set, which is fairly steep. they look like this...
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg
mine look like that, plus a few fairly large scrapes around the outsides. the 195/45 tyres dont offer much rim protection on them and about a week after fitting them i dropped off a kerb at too shallow an angle and a couple of the rims just caught the edge on the way down and scraped. i think i did the same thing on the other side a few weeks later lol. theyre definitely not in perfect condition, but theyre about £450-500 for the rims new, then another £250-350 on decent tyres. if you were in the UK it would be a better deal, the shipping is going to kill it i think.
Looks like a really good deal to me! :mrgreen:
These are just about the best wheels for fitting brakes in radially, I've seen 310mm 4 pot kits inside a 15" Team Dynamics before which is impressive...
Singularity
24-01-2010, 22:59
bah.. I don't know..
I have the Whole setup with front and rear calipers.. all pads.. all discs with engineering complete.. and then I get face bashed with god damn rim fitment.. Jesus..
I've invested £400 on the discs incl pads (ebc yellows front and ebc reds rear), £300 on the front calipers, £200 on th engineering, £100 for stainless lines.
That's £1000 out the bloddy window.. I think I'll cut my losses and sell the entire kit. I can't find rims that will fit and look descent and the same time.
I did find rims that looked nice and would fit the aw11 straight on from Volk,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390143934947&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123
but they don't clear the calipers.. so I'm like.. why bother anymore.. The parts have just been sitting for the better part of a year now..
If anyone want's the kit, grab a bargain now..
keri-WMS
24-01-2010, 23:36
bah.. I don't know..
I have the Whole setup with front and rear calipers.. all pads.. all discs with engineering complete.. and then I get face bashed with god damn rim fitment.. Jesus..
I've invested £400 on the discs incl pads (ebc yellows front and ebc reds rear), £300 on the front calipers, £200 on th engineering, £100 for stainless lines.
That's £1000 out the bloddy window.. I think I'll cut my losses and sell the entire kit. I can't find rims that will fit and look descent and the same time.
I did find rims that looked nice and would fit the aw11 straight on from Volk,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390143934947&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123
but they don't clear the calipers.. so I'm like.. why bother anymore.. The parts have just been sitting for the better part of a year now..
If anyone want's the kit, grab a bargain now..
That's a bummer....
What's the going rate for the ST205 calipers? I've been meaning to play with them at some point....part-exchange? :hidesbehi
Just a thought, also get to use the rear stuff that way! :mrgreen:
why dont you ask adamh to make you a set of spacers for your wheels ive used spacers on mine no problems
Paul Woods
25-01-2010, 07:00
John although i sympathise with you massively the question has to be asked, why didn't you check your wheel offsets and measure spoke to caliper clearance before investing in the machine work etc? The guide i wrote clearly states that clearance is very tight from caliper face to spokes depending on what wheels you plan to use.
Personally i would whack some spacers on there to give you the desired clearance and if that takes the wheels outside the bodywork then stick some arch extensions on... that to me is better than giving up on it buddy.
keri-WMS
25-01-2010, 09:58
Another fiddle if every mm counts is to make the disc thinner. Every mm turned off the outer friction face is a mm you can move the wheel side of the caliper inboard (and/or fit thinner caliper-width-spacers), = a mm more room for the wheels.
Obviously this needs to be done with great care to make sure you don't weaken the disc, especially the bell area etc which is normally only 5-7mm thick.
The same fiddle works with pads, get 5mm skimmed off each pad (assuming there's loads of meat) and run 10mm thinner calipers (assuming you can move the caliper lugs by that amount, the max per pad is defined by the thickness of the spacer you can get rid of at the lugs. A 10mm thinner caliper = 5mm more wheel clearance.
Singularity
25-01-2010, 12:44
Paul -> i think I overlooked / didn't understand it.. I thought it was the space around that was the problem and not the space outwards that was the problem.
I don't think 25mm spacers will do good on everything. I don't feel safe driving with them. Also, I have a $4000 paint job, so arches on top is not an option :D
Keri -> if You'd like to fiddle with it be my guest. I have to pay people to fiddle with it, since I don't have the skills or machinery to do so.
I bought slotted discs, and they sent the wrong pads first, but they rectified the problem by sending a free set of upgraded pads (EBC yellows). I bought the slottet cause I think it looks good. Besides, I don't think I would cut into that I I had the chance anyway.
Also, the calipers don't look like that anymore. They are completely refreshed and black. There are none of the cylinders or rubber on the st205 calipers thats faulty. Very good condition. (pics is from before I did anything)
I can take some rescent pics, if you are interested.
Just tell me if you want a complete set that's ready to go on. They some with Everything
I took a pic from when the discs had been made, and I sent the complaint about the wrong pads.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/01/313.jpg
keri-WMS
25-01-2010, 13:05
Keri -> if You'd like to fiddle with it be my guest. I have to pay people to fiddle with it, since I don't have the skills or machinery to do so.
I can't really do anything from over here, I would need the calipers/pads/discs/wheels to hand...and the shipping both ways would cost a fortune!
That said, if you're happy to arrange the shipping, I'm happy to try for you - no charge for R&D time, only for any machining if needed.
How far are they from fitting in mm? (put washers in the wheel studs bit by bit until the wheel fits, them measure the thickness of the washer stacks - obviously don't put the car on the ground or do the wheel nuts up like that!)
EDIT - is it really a confirmed 25mm?!
Singularity
25-01-2010, 15:45
ye, my rims are inwards in the spoke. also the volk rims I wanted far from clears the calipers. I had a pair of VW golf rims that fit, but they were too ugly, so I didn't drive with them - I only fitted them to check.
ye, about 25mm - read post #36
If you want the kit, you are welcome to it.
keri-WMS
25-01-2010, 16:19
If you want the kit, you are welcome to it.
Hiya, I'm not sure exactly what you mean, that sounds like you want to give it away for free which I'm sure isn't the case!
I can help in three ways:
1 - You send me the parts and I re-jig it to try and make it fit better...25mm is a lot but we can reduce it.
2 - I could do with some ST205 calipers, so I can supply a WMS kit and would take your calipers in part exchange (depending on what you wanted for them!).
3 - I can just sell you a WMS kit, and you can check if it fits. I am VERY close to releasing a 300mm WMS kit, so close I can generate a wheel clearance PDF if you want?
Hope that makes more sense! :thumbsup:
Keri
PS - Are your 25mm spacers hub-centric? Also what bore is on the alloys you want to fit, are the 54mm or do they have "rings" fitted?
Paul Woods
25-01-2010, 18:12
John if spacers worry you please don't let those stand in your way... 355 replicas use 7 inch, that's right 7 inch!! rear wheel spacers will no ill effects (apart from some handling differences possibly) . 25mm spacers are nothing in the scheme of things.
Singularity
26-01-2010, 21:33
keri -> what's the price for your wms kit ? . is it for both front and rear ? - matching calipers ?
Paul -> ok, the 25mm spacers would not cause any damage ? I hear that people in mr2oc are reluctant of putting more than 10mm on, so I assumed that 25 was pushing it. Also, if I space the rims that far, I'll probably not be able to turn the front tires, and they will for sure hit the arches when I go over a bump or into a hole with the tire.
My rims are 17x7.5 and 4xPCD100 with ET25 I think it was.. I guess that's the offset.
they look like this:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/01/317.jpg
And they are this close to the edge:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/01/318.jpg
keri-WMS
26-01-2010, 21:51
keri -> what's the price for your wms kit ? . is it for both front and rear ? - matching calipers ?
The WMS stuff is all here ( http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=3450 ), only the 277mm one is ready to go with prices. There's no WMS stuff for the rear, but there are two piston size options for the front to match either AW11 rear calipers or SW20 rear calipers.
Alternatively I can do you a 300mm kit profile, I already have the disc chosen so I can do that fairly accurately for the radius (+/- maybe 3mm as I need to check the 280mm profile when used at 300mm), but the offset / spoke clearance is more like +/- 1mm ish.
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