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dgh938peg
25-05-2009, 14:17
Afternoon All,

have pm'd the legendary Mr Woods and hoping he can reply soon but thought i'd stick a quick post up to see if anyone else can point me in the right direction

I am at this stage.....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/263.jpg

With no small amoutn of help from PW i might add...

I have everything needed connected in the bay to run, all fluids done and fuel hoses the lot, coil, igniter in place so engine looks pretty happy.

I am completely SHAT at wiring and need some help / advice.

1. the two white sockets in the fuse box in the engine bay - what should be connected into these?
2. The battery / live connections (again the termianls in the fuse box) what should i connect here?
3. Anyone got a guide on how to hook up the reverse light switch into the loom?
4. 4th ECU plug on a rev2 GE loom - what do i do with this?

Mechanically i am sound - electrically i am a complete FUCKWIT so any help with pics would be...
:fab:

Garbe
25-05-2009, 15:05
Its all detailed in the wiring guide in the downloads sections. In great detail with pictures.
It called an 'idiots guide' I did it so you should be OK lol

dgh938peg
25-05-2009, 15:34
Got the idiots guide and am working through Garbe - guess i just need a little faith and go with the flow LOL!

Cheers for the prompt reply!

Dan :D

Paul Woods
25-05-2009, 16:02
1. numerous connections made here, you really need to refer to the guide.If you get stuck on one just ask.

2.These need to go to the thick white wires on your v6 harness.

3.I think the reverse is in the guide too.... but off the top of my head you need to chop the old reverse plug off your old engine harness, that has two wires in it, a B/Y wire and a R/B wire.Join the B/Y to the thin B/Y on one of your white fusebox plugs,join the R/B wire to a R/B wire on one of your white fusebox plugs..... simples!

4. Keep it there until you have joined the V6 4th plug up, then either tape it up or chop it off.

Keep em coming lol

Garbe
25-05-2009, 21:26
Wiring the reverse light switch is in there, and this is from doing the swap in 1997.

Paul Woods
26-05-2009, 06:56
1997?? wow hasad not only did you manage to wire up reverse but also fitted a flux capacitor :)

dgh938peg
26-05-2009, 12:30
Found a few differences LOL!

Missing the black/red stripe wire (starter solenoid) from this plug :banghead:

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/267.jpg

Donor is (was) a 95 Camry and had these 2 extra plugs - am i best off pulling these through the firewall?

Continuity checked and found the black/red solenoid starter wire on the smaller plug (wire still black / red stripe)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/268.jpg

so i have the starter relay and the alternator wired now. Finding the starter solenoid wire elsewhere has given me a bit of confidence LOL!!!!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/269.jpg

Paul Woods
26-05-2009, 17:52
Sometimes the camry starter energiser is on the engine side of the loom and sometimes its on the boot side.

Garbe
26-05-2009, 22:30
1997?? wow hasad not only did you manage to wire up reverse but also fitted a flux capacitor :)

Its Marty McFly I'll have you know. lol

dgh938peg
27-05-2009, 01:55
I felt FUCKING legendary tonight!!! Absolutely flew though it - kicked off at 8pm and packed up at 1am!!!

I now have everything connected aside one i want to query - 2 thick wires on a grey plug (can post pics tomorrow if needed) 1 white 1 black - probably 8gauge wire. It says connect both of these to the big white wire in the fusebox but im not so sure. The white i agree with but the black is connected to the negative battery clamp? Should i just chop off ???

That's the other, i take it the negative battery clamp i simply remove the clamp and attach to a good chassis earth?

Cheer again, Dan :D

PS I wanna flux capacitor but i ain't stumpin up $175k LOL - anyone fancy going halves on one?

welsh_kroozer
27-05-2009, 05:46
i will go halfs with you mate, will need it in my car thoug,but... being a rev4 turbo it will get to 89mph quicker than the v6 :D or whatever speed time travel occurs in..

Marksman
27-05-2009, 06:53
Hi Dan. Does that black wire have a red stripe? Just wondering if you've mistaken the starter connector for a battery clamp?

Owen.

dgh938peg
27-05-2009, 08:25
No but the wire it is connected into is huuuge with a Black/red-stripe. Will continuity check plus post pics tonight...

dgh938peg
27-05-2009, 09:01
This is the pic i have for now

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/278.jpg

I have put a crimp and heatshrink on the end of it but it's a pair of black wires sat over the top of the strut. the crimp is in fron of the 2 white plugs. it then goes down to the grey tape and sealant where it joins into one then joins into the black/red-stripe of the neg battery clamp (which should be earthed right?)

dgh938peg
27-05-2009, 21:17
No worries at all guys, all sorted now and we HAVE ANOTHER RUNNER!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C1CZxvkrng

:D :D :D :D :D :D

thanks for all the help guys, please add me to the swap register - could not have done it without the wiring guide (which i have to say is faultless - just im a real novice) and the removal guide! Spot on fellas and thank you :thumbsup:

Add me to the swap register please!!!!

Outstanding issue - wiring

Check Engine Light is on - any suggestions?

Thanks, Dan

Paul Woods
28-05-2009, 07:29
Well done mate, right you need to bridge Te1 and E1 in your diagnostic port and switch the ignition on, count your CEL flashes in paired groups.... 2 flashes then 4 flashes is code 24 for example.... it will flash the next code and then loop the whole lot when it is finished.

When we know the code we will be able to tell you what is not right.Is that a UK camry donor engine by the way? There are issues with import camry/windom Ecu's but the UK ones wire up fine with no CEL.

dgh938peg
28-05-2009, 09:24
Was a UK car Paul, Im not too sure if i remember during one fo the starts if the light was out - it could weel have been. The oil level switch in the sump is giving grief as the connector is broken off and Mr T want £244 for a new one !!!

Paul Woods
28-05-2009, 17:56
Well if you do have a CEL lit just pull the codes and report back.

As for the oil level switch.... do you want that to work as it should or do you just want your dash light out?

dgh938peg
29-05-2009, 01:40
No more CEL so im guessing it's linked to the oil level switch, im going to solder on a flying lead to the terminals as the plastic body has broken off then add an in-line connector.

But....

Bigger problem.... The port around the oil pressure swich has cracked - guessing i overtightened it refitting it. Stooopid really to have a taper thread in a casting as it will always end in tears (usually)

Any input on this would be great as i have a mate who can stick weld it but if there is any easier solution (chemical metal perhaps) i'd love to hear it.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/295.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/296.jpg

Thanks Dan :(

Paul Woods
29-05-2009, 07:05
oh... that's not good! I don't think chemical metal will hold against the oil pressure, i might be wrong but i'd be surprised if it worked.

So i guess you are looking at some sort of weld to blank it off and then use one of the bungs in the oil pump gallery to plumb your pressure switch into.I have used these in the past for aftermarket pressure gauges so fitting the sender elsewhere is no problem.

Your biggest problem is sealing that hole up though, i'm really not sure if that is weldable.Thing is you have got to give it a go i think because your block is effectively scrap otherwise.