aigochamaloh's 1MZ-FE into MKI build

[aigochamaloh]

Hello from across the pond!

I just signed up and have been reading through the plethora of information available on here. I'm getting amped to do a swap!

Some lady hit my brother and totaled his hand me down car, my first car; a 1995 Toyota Avalon. It has the 1MZ-FE, OBDII certified, but not considered since it's a 95, not a 96+.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/04/45.jpg

I'm glad my brother walked out of that, and quite sad my first car is gone, but look at that untouched engine bay! This car can help breathe new life into my MKI MR2.

Seeing that I have a complete car, I'd have pretty much everything necessary such as wiring, and I know the engine is good. I just did the timing belt, water pump, and general maintenance.

Sorry about the huge intro. I've been reading Paul's swap. I've also seen some swaps on youtube, where the rear firewall has not been cut. Is it ok to assume that the engine fits through the bottom of the car? Also, am I correct, from my reading, that the existing motor mounts need to be cut out and welded? What is this 'jig' that I've been reading about? I've also read somewhere that a MK1.5 motor mount setup would work the same for the 1MZ-FE.

Just a huge list of questions running through my head, I will write them out when they formulate into words.

[aigochamaloh]

I see that I'm probably in the wrong subforum. Could I be moved to Mk1.6 Swaps in the main swap forum please?

[Paul Woods]

Hi,welcome to TB, i will move your thread to the 1.6 swap section when it actually becomes a build thread, at the moment it is just research so you are in the right section.

The engine does indeed come up through the bottom, all engine mounts need cutting off the chassis and new ones welding in.The 1.5 jig will not work for the 1mz swap, the engines are in different locations so you will need to "dry hang" the engine,get the transmission in the right place for axle location and then weld your mounts in.

Best advice is to read as much as you can and ask questions, all the help you need to do this is right here :thumbsup:

[aigochamaloh]

Hi,welcome to TB, i will move your thread to the 1.6 swap section when it actually becomes a build thread, at the moment it is just research so you are in the right section.

The engine does indeed come up through the bottom, all engine mounts need cutting off the chassis and new ones welding in.The 1.5 jig will not work for the 1mz swap, the engines are in different locations so you will need to "dry hang" the engine,get the transmission in the right place for axle location and then weld your mounts in.

Best advice is to read as much as you can and ask questions, all the help you need to do this is right here :thumbsup:

Thanks Paul,

What is the 1.6 jig I've been reading about? Is that available for borrowing or am I stuck on my own to get the fitting done myself?

Indeed, this project, if it does get off the ground, will be started this summer when I am back home from school.


My list then...


Have

-Complete 1MZ-FE motor, valve covers to oil pan. Will be taking the power steering pump and AC compressor off. Unless I find in my research someone who has kept the AC on, it gets hot in southern California!

-Complete wiring harness/ECU to merge into the MKI harness.


Must obtain

-E153 MKII Turbo tranny.

-Manual flywheel/clutch.

-Hybrid axles to fit E153 and MKI hubs. 1987-1991 Camry V6 Outer CV, SW20 turbo Inner CV.



Will add on as I find more time.

[Paul Woods]

Ah the 1.6 jig is for the 3vz-fe engine only, the 1mz sits differently.

[aigochamaloh]

Well, my swap is underway. I'm home for the weekend and starting to pull things out of my Avalon. Three more weeks and I'll be home for the summer.

Seeing the car like this up close was tough, again glad my brother is fine. But due to everything being slightly more compacted inside the cabin, I'm unsure how I'm going to get behind paneling to get to the ECU and harness.

Started the engine up and let it warm up, still runs perfectly.

Work done today:

Depressurized fuel system, pulled battery, air filter tubing to TB, rad fans, radiator, evacuated AC.

I realized that there is an auto tranny cooler on this car, I never knew that.

I'll have to drain the ATF, jack up the car, pop off wheels and pull out my axles.

Anyone happen to know if I can use any part of these axles in building a hybrid that will fit the MKI hub?

[aigochamaloh]

Reference shot

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/256.jpg

The chaos I'm dealing with inside.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/257.jpg

Only way in.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/258.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/259.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/05/260.jpg

[Paul Woods]

No i'm afraid the camry axles are no use to you at all.

[aigochamaloh]

Just what I expected, thanks.

[aigochamaloh]

Work done on 5/24/2009

Took off door from front of car, still latched to the hinge and I can't get it off. Lock mechanism is broken.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/111.jpg

This gave me a bit more room to work under the dash.

All said and done, got the ECU and cruise control box off, and pulled the harness through the firewall. That about wraps up what I need to get from inside the car, except I have one plug missing from the ECU. I'll have to find out where that one leads to.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/112.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/113.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

6/17

Back for the summer now. Just removed some easy stuff in the past couple days. The condensor and dryer for the AC is out. Transmission fluid is drained. Axle nuts are off and axles are loose in the hub. Got some of the exhaust unbolted but the cat is stuck. Waiting on WD-40 to do it's work.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/114.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/115.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/116.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

6/18 - 6/19

Exhaust is out. Probably going to save it and maybe hack it together to make a usable exhaust for the MR2. It'll be super quiet, but it'll be something to save me a couple bucks for now.

Got the drivers side axle out after a couple days of figuring out how I'm going to do it. Now to repeat on the passengers side. I'll be able to rent a engine hoist then and get that sucker out of there.

Things I realized...

1) I need a good pair of mechanics/working gloves. Using disposable gloves that get cut open every minute sucks. My skin is so raw from constantly washing and it sucks.

2) Taking apart something to learn is fun. I have never even done anything like this before. All because of my little MR2, I'm learning a whole bunch of stuff that I would never have imagined I would learn. I got into cars really late; freshman year of college, and now I've never looked back.

[aigochamaloh]

The growing mound of parts.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/117.jpg

Axle out.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/118.jpg

Can I remove the axle on the other side the same way? Haynes and the Toyota manual says to remove everything from the tranny, but it's difficult for me to get in there. If I remove the axle at the same joint, I believe the remaining stub will be short enough as to not interfere with me pulling the whole block/tranny out the top. Thoughts?

[Paul Woods]

yes you can just remove the axle on the other side and the whole lot will come out.

[Paul Woods]

Just realized this is no longer a "doing research" thread and is now a full blown build thread so moving to 1.6 builds where it will get the attention it deserves :thumbsup:

[hmmmmm]

Welcome on the forum and good luck with the build! Do you have any pics of the mk1?

[aigochamaloh]

Quick thought: I am going to use the turbo E153 box with the V6 manual tranny through car-part.com. I am a bit confused reading through the threads on mixing and matching the clutch and pressure plate. Can I simply buy the clutch/pressure plate combo for a MR2 Turbo and it should fit? From what I am reading, they also list the combo would work for the V6 Camry from 1990-2001.


Some pics of the recipient of the V6.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/128.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/129.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/130.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/131.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Thanks for moving it into the swap forum btw!

edit: Another thing I guess I should point out. This is the first time I'm ever doing anything remotely close to this. It's been a learning process so far and I'm sure I have much to learn still. So excuse my snail pace compared to the swaps I've been reading. :)

[aigochamaloh]

Got the passenger side axle off.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/06/132.jpg

Need to pick up an engine hoist and yank the thing now. I probably won't be able to work on it much this week as I'll be helping out at a youth day camp.

If I undo the carrier bearing mount, it should just slide out as I lift it up right?

[OlberJ]

You can lift it out by undoing the 4 x 14mm nuts underneath on the right hand side of the car under the torque mount, the 2 x 14mm nuts on the left hand side (the holes for them may have rubber bungs in them, pop them out with a screwdriver) and the bolts above and below the front torque mount.

If you can't get at the bolt under the front torque mount (there's normally a metal tray in the way, you can undo the 4 bolts on the block to mount. Or cut a hole in the tray to get at the bottom bolt.

There's also a torque mount shocker type thing on the front of the gearbox, 2 x 14mm bolts to come out of that.

Before that though, drop the downpipes off and make sure you have all the cables and pipes disconnected, especially the one at the back, 10mm nut that holds a pipe for the power steering, that'll also need cut at some point on it's length.

I'd have the engine supported on the engine crane before you undo these as it will probably move a bit.

[aigochamaloh]

Alright thanks. The downpipes are off. I just need to pick up the hoist from my uncle's garage whenever I have the time.

Reading up on the driveshafts, seems like this is the way to go since MR2 Supercharged short axles are almost impossible to find/freaking expensive.

-Mk2 turbo non lsd shafts with st185 outer CV joints (partsinabox number OJ-0220/30) and mk2 turbo supported shaft.**

Correct me if I'm wrong.

The complete ST185 shaft is the same as the 88-91 V6 Camry.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110381533391&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

This will give me the necessary spline fitment for the MKI hub. I will want to 'chop it' off at the outer CV joint and mate it to the MK2 Turbo Non-LSD shafts+inner CV joints. Is this ok?

Have my flywheel coming anyday now. Resurfacing to come, and I'll be picking up an Exedy OEM replacement clutch combo for the MK2 Turbo. Anyone have any experience with Exedy clutches? I'm am planning to run stock V6 power for a quite awhile.

[Paul Woods]

Correct me if I'm wrong.

The complete ST185 shaft is the same as the 88-91 V6 Camry.

I believe the outer CV is the same yes, but i have not proved this for myself.

[adamh]

welcome to brutal. i'm just preping for a 3vz install, engine is allready out, it's definately worth all the effort, keep it coming.

[Conor]

Have my flywheel coming anyday now. Resurfacing to come, and I'll be picking up an Exedy OEM replacement clutch combo for the MK2 Turbo. Anyone have any experience with Exedy clutches? I'm am planning to run stock V6 power for a quite awhile.
Exedy clutches are just fine. With as inexpensive as OEM clutches are, though, why not run one of those instead?

Also.. you're in California and you're using an impossible-to-smog V6 engine set at this point. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of that.

-Conor (smog-legal V6'd '93)

[aigochamaloh]

Yes I am aware of the fact that a manual transmission was not available with this model year 1MZ-FE. I will deal with that when smog comes up again in another year. Or just turn it into an offroad use car for the track only, who knows.

I will find out how much a new clutch costs OEM through Aaron at Lithia next week then.

[aigochamaloh]

Clutch disk - $65
Pressure plate - $91
Release bearing - $27

That adds up more than an Exedy kit with everything I would need at $120. If Exedy does make most OEM clutches, I'll go with it for now. I'm not going to be making anymore than stock power.

[aigochamaloh]

Conor, I saw your thread on MR2oc about your smog legal v6 now. You're using a 2000 year 1MZ-FE?

The 95 1MZ-FE has OBDII, it's just not required for smog since it's pre 96. I can hook up my scanner and get codes, live engine data, the whole bit. If it'll hook up and read properly on my uncle's smog machine, I will have it bar'd as a 97, which was the first year the Camry came with the V6 and manual tranny.

[aigochamaloh]

Question. When it says ST185 outers with V6 auto output shaft, which v6 auto are these from?

[snowtigger]

my guess is the one you got the v6 engine out off.

[aigochamaloh]

My V6 auto outers are from a 95 Avalon and Paul says no.

[snowtigger]

camry maybe?.

[aigochamaloh]

Ended up buying an engine hoist on sale. Hopefully I'll have the motor out soon.

Also, my lightweight chromoly flywheel just came in. All 11 pounds of it. Compared to the standard 22+ pound OEM flywheel, this thing should rev quickly!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/99.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Anddddddddddddd, the engine is out. Didn't actually expect to get it done today. It took 10 minutes surprisingly, and now this old Avalon chassis can move out of the driveway.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/101.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/102.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/103.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/104.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Obligatory engine bay picture.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/105.jpg

And what the point of all this is.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/106.jpg

[Shadeh]

Nice work mate, I did the same pic after I took the engine out too :D

[Rowdan]

Good job.:thumbsup: Love the way you guys from warmer climes all work on your cars in shorts and flip flops I normally wear steel toe caps and kevlar stab proof trousers (nothing to do with the fact thats my work uniform).:cold:

[snowtigger]

was thinking hope it does not land on his toe's ouch.

[aigochamaloh]

Yea it is pretty warm. Usually dripping sweat while working outside.

Any info on what else I need to pull out before I scrap the chassis? From browsing around here, Paul has mentioned a COR several times. Also something under the hood, an amplifier? What are they?

I've pulled the engine and the complete harness that passes through the firewall that includes 3 ECU plugs and some body plugs. Also I cut the 4th ECU plug out from under the dash. Anything else?

I also took out the fuel pump to put into the MR2. I'm pretty sure the stock pump won't do the V6 very well.

Another note, I noticed that the engine has a return style fuel system. I know I've read somewhere that 1MZ-FE's are returnless, yet mine has one. Does this apply to later engine models?

[aigochamaloh]

Took off unnecessary accessories. Who needs power steering anyway!? And maybe someday I can get the AC lines matched up to the compressor, but since I'm used to no AC in the MR2, no AC it will stay.

Wiring harness all out, had to take off intake mani to get to it.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/122.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/123.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/124.jpg

[OlberJ]

Yea it is pretty warm. Usually dripping sweat while working outside.

Any info on what else I need to pull out before I scrap the chassis? From browsing around here, Paul has mentioned a COR several times. Also something under the hood, an amplifier? What are they?

I've pulled the engine and the complete harness that passes through the firewall that includes 3 ECU plugs and some body plugs. Also I cut the 4th ECU plug out from under the dash. Anything else?

I also took out the fuel pump to put into the MR2. I'm pretty sure the stock pump won't do the V6 very well.

Another note, I noticed that the engine has a return style fuel system. I know I've read somewhere that 1MZ-FE's are returnless, yet mine has one. Does this apply to later engine models?

COR you can use the Mk1 item so no need to fish out the Avalon's COR, which is a cunt to do.

Get the transponder black box and wiring from under the dash, the ignition key, the key barrel surround, the wiring to the wee gold cube and onto the plug all in at the ignition barrel.

Search for a supra TT fuel pump if you like, flows more than a walbro and doesn't whine. Or use the avalon one, should do fine.

What you need for the fuel system is an external regulator, pipen the return into the arse of that and it'll bleed off what it doesn't need back to the tank.

~50psi is what you're looking for there IIRC.

Good man putting this into a Mk1 :thumbsup:

[aigochamaloh]

COR you can use the Mk1 item so no need to fish out the Avalon's COR, which is a cunt to do.

Get the transponder black box and wiring from under the dash, the ignition key, the key barrel surround, the wiring to the wee gold cube and onto the plug all in at the ignition barrel.

Search for a supra TT fuel pump if you like, flows more than a walbro and doesn't whine. Or use the avalon one, should do fine.

What you need for the fuel system is an external regulator, pipen the return into the arse of that and it'll bleed off what it doesn't need back to the tank.

~50psi is what you're looking for there IIRC.

Good man putting this into a Mk1 :thumbsup:

Ok I won't go after the avalon COR. This car doesn't have a transponder or that junk. Just an older basic alarm that unlocks/locks the door and pops the trunk. It did kill the ignition though when the alarm went off. Do I still need to get that stuff then?

[aigochamaloh]

Well I picked up a 94 E153 in San Diego yesterday afternoon. Had one stub in it, that will be very useful. I just need to figure out the other side (the supported side). Took the stubs out of the automatic tranny, number of splines is the same, as the supported side slid right into the E153. There's a bit of a gap between the shaft seal and outer metal rim of the axle though, so either no go, or I'm going to have to shorten the spline side.

I'm trying to separate the automatic from the V6, and I can't get it to budge. So far I've taken out 5 tranny-to-engine bolts, and two engine-to-tranny bolts. Are there usually more than this? I lifted the engine and can't seem to find anymore, unless they are buried under axle grease.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/132.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

There was one more engine-to-tranny bolt hiding. Then had to wrestle it off the block.

I didn't know that I was supposed to loosen the flexplate-torque converter bolts first. That SUCKED after the fact.

But behind the flex plate, was a brand new looking and dry crankshaft end, even the rear main looks good. Don't think I'll have to be replacing that luckily.

I'll pick up my clutch and some engine part cleaner tomorrow and get the block and tranny cleaned up. Looks like I'll have to order some new axle stub seals, they're trashed on the E153, but look brand new on the automatic as well. I wonder if they're interchangeable.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/133.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/134.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/135.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/136.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Pulled the MR2 into the back to start working on it.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/172.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/173.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/174.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/175.jpg

How do 88-92 Camry axles fit just as is? They would seem way too long, as you can see the MR2 ones compared to the Avalon one.

[Paul Woods]

Camry ones don't fit, that might be why :)

If you are using an E153 trans then use mk2T shafts with St185 outer CV joints

If you are using an S54 trans then use mk2NA shafts or a FWD celica supported shaft set up.

[aigochamaloh]

Oh I left out a bit of information. 2 fellows on MR2oc are saying they fit 88-92 v6 axles straight in with no modifications. Even the MKI NA axles are a tight fit, they got lucky and got "short shafted!"

I've bought some non-abs MR2T axles and they are on the way. My problem is with the ST185/Camry outer CVs. I cannot find them without ABS. I'm assuming ABS outer CVs will not slide into the hub very easily, correct?

[OlberJ]

Big hammer and a chisel is your friend :mrgreen:

Them rings pop right off.

[aigochamaloh]

Big hammer and a chisel is your friend :mrgreen:

Them rings pop right off.

Oh really? That's all they are, not cast as one unit or welded on? Interesting...

[aigochamaloh]

This is what I'm looking at, will it work?

http://i5.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/30/04/d659_1.JPG

[OlberJ]

The parts in a box ones we get, the celica outers, have the ABS ring on them, coupla sharp blows and they pop off.

[aigochamaloh]

Motor almost out. One problem. I can't seem to get the clutch slave cylinder off the motor.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/178.jpg

I've taken out the 2 bolts and the stay bracket.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/179.jpg

I've taken out the 2 bolts right on the slave cylinder.

Now on the next picture, I'm trying to remove that one bolt that seems to be holding the whole bracket with the shift cables and clutch hydraulic lines. Is there any other bolt I'm missing?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/180.jpg

As it sits now.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/181.jpg

[OlberJ]

There's 2 bolts that go through the gearbox mount that's also part of the slave cylinder assembly i think.

They're at 90* to the picture there, in the seat of the U shaped bracket that the rubber mount is held by. As in going from front winding in towards the rear if u were bolting it on.

[aigochamaloh]

That one bolt I circled was all that was needed to come out. One long extension to get the wrench outside from under the car did the job.

Here are the engines side by side.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/186.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/187.jpg

The car right now.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/188.jpg

Now a break as my family goes on vacation. Project to continue on August 8th or so, with the cutting out of the old motor mounts!

One question. Do these 'shim' things get reused? They were on either sides of the flex plate. Do I put them on either sides of the flywheel as well?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/07/189.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Now the big thing to think about. The engine and tranny mounts. I don't even know where to begin.

I've downloaded the pdf file with the V6 mounts available here, but are they even for the 1MZ? Will they work?

I know the left and right mounts will need to come out and be rewelded on. But I'm unsure about the front and rear.

I don't even have the tranny mount that comes on the E153 normally, I will have to acquire that.

The right side of the engine, where the big stay bracket with two long bolts are, what do you do about that side?

Much insight is needed and would be GREATLY appreciated.

[aigochamaloh]

NOBODY has anything to say?

When I get back, I'll be changing the fuel tank and putting in a new radiator and such, but I do not know where to proceed from there. Please, any help would be appreciated.

[Paul Woods]

The mount templates in the download section were only for a 3vz and using a modified right side mount on my own mk1 v6, as templates they will allow you to get it somewhere near but without a jig it will need to be manually aligned up/down,left/right,forward/aft and the final hole position for the hanging bolts marked and drilled to suit.Do not use the hole positions on the templates as they will not work on a 1mz.

You don't need to use the spacer rings at all.

[aigochamaloh]

The mount templates in the download section were only for a 3vz and using a modified right side mount on my own mk1 v6, as templates they will allow you to get it somewhere near but without a jig it will need to be manually aligned up/down,left/right,forward/aft and the final hole position for the hanging bolts marked and drilled to suit.Do not use the hole positions on the templates as they will not work on a 1mz.

You don't need to use the spacer rings at all.

Thank you very much Paul. I assumed they were for the 3VZ since it seems most swaps use this engine.

I will have the mounts cut out, but will adjust the final welding as needed.

I have just bought a set of MK2 turbo engine/tranny mounts since I do not have any to work with. Perhaps having these in my hands will give me a better idea of what to do.

[adamh]

when i mounted the turbo engine i had some basic mount shapes, but thats all, the rest was 'on the job' on my tod. dont worry too much you'll get through.

to get your left / right positioning of the engine basically, hang the engine and tranny from a crane... assemble the drive shafts in the hubs and then in the diff (or the other way around.

then you'll want to find the centre of the driveshaft travel (essentially the centring of the engine/tranny to the hubs) by moving the engine left to right. how is that done?.. simple, to find if you have equal travel unscrew the hub nut flush to the end of the stub axles and use it as a gauge point; once your engine is at the right height and skew and suspended in the knock the nut (tap it) back into the hub one side (left) for instance, and then see how far the hub nut has travelled 'in' axially from the centre of the wheel, make a note in your head etc, and then push the engine all the way the other side (right) and then go round that side and kncok that nut back in and see how far the right hand hub nut has travelled before it bottoms out. take the total travel, divide it by 2, then centralise the engine by getting the hub nuts poking out equally you can measure this.

i think it was about 10mm per side on my MK1 with a 3sgte inside suspended, and looking from the rear of the car my driveshafts were slightly pointing downwards ! (as there was no weight on the car chasis).... i remember when the engine sits on the mounts with its full weight it compresses the mount rubbers by about 5-10mm.

likewise when your engine sits on the car the suspension compresses considerably upwards and the axles and lower arms etc move up. so when you posititon your mounts for welding make sure the axles are not in a dead straight line to begin with! as that will overtravel and become a U type shape.
then look from above the engine and check your L/R driveshafts are in a dead straight line or as near as through the diff and with your supported shaft.

I used lots of blocks of wood and a few jacks! ans an engine crane to position the engine the best i could.


does that sound about right paul!..


to mark the mount holes in position paul teaches an easy way to do this, you tack weld one side of the mount plate in first to the left chasis rail, (without the bolt hole drilled) then using the engine mount that is bolted to the left side of the gearbox / for instance .. you put some paint on the mount bolt end.. and push the bolt through the mount rubber centre hole so it touches and marks the inside of your tack welded engine mount plate.. you then know the correct drilling position of the bolt hole, then break off your tack welded plate.. take it to the drill press and poke a hole through approximately 10mm higher than marked. this accounts for the drop in position of the rubber compression when your engine is squashing it!. once you have broken off one tack welded plate and drilled it, put the other plate you have the other side of the mount , tack it in very slightly again, and mark that one in the same fashion with a bolt through the hole onto yout plate!, then break it off.. drill 10mm higher etc etc.

you'll need to do this for the left and right mounts only. once drilled, put the plates back in across the left gearbox mount, insert your mount bolt, and do it up firmly.. then tack the two plates back in good and proper. then do the right side (cam side) in the same fashion, its a little trickier as its alot tighter space on the cam side, but remeber these are really the hardest two bits to do on the whole swap if you ask me. you'll have them two mounts done in a day for sure, whats a day!, dont rush or panic. also pay attention to any clearnces you have all around the engine, if you need to bash the rear chasis rail in a bit to clear the inlet manifold you may have to bash it in!.. check all of this stuff out before removing the engine and seaming.

once they are both tack welded in, drop out the engine, seam up the plates properly, add your seam sealer etc after etc, and the adjust the bay as necessary ready for a final engine fit. I mean adjust the bay as in, make room for parts with a big hammer!, making a portion of the rear bulkhead removable so you can service your engine easy and change the spark plugs. etc, and also any other work like turning round any coolant hard pipes that need be turned round. i dont know where the pipes are on the 1mz but the 3vz some are facing the wrong way to the hard pipe at the bottom of the bay. once all your prep work is done, paint the bay and drop the engine back in

then the easy part (yes there is one on the swaps) is the front and rear mounts, you basically just construct them around the gaps between the engine mounts that are on the engine and the chasis rails, its a bit of custom work so to speak but its not hard, cut some cardboard templates, around the gaps , lay them onto metal and cut the metal, use good 4-5mm plate (3/16") once you have tacked it all in position using bolts to mount into the chasis etc, remove the mount and seam it on the bench!, job done.

I would definately advise you to read the 3sgte into Mk1 .PDF in the files section, and also the 3vzfe into Mk1 .pdf file in the files section, once read-up you'll have a far greater understanding of how to plop the engines in the mk1 bay.

im doing my 3vzfe mounts next week, i look forward to every second of it. its worth it for sure, i must say having the experience of the 3sgte mounts is going to help me this time, but i did make and weld my own mounts the first time around its not that difficult, more so is apprehension of an unkown task. once your through it you'll be very pleased i assure you. jumping around like a dog with two ... :)

[aigochamaloh]

Wow I really appreciate you taking the time to type all that out! I feel better about going back out and getting to work after this week's vacation.

I think I'm going to go out and get a flux core welder. Guess it's time to learn how to weld on all that extra car pieces I pulled out of the Avalon.

Since 3 of the mounts are on the tranny, will the front and rear mount kit from Speed-source work? The left and right fitment should be about the same as the 3S-GTE or am I hoping for too much?

http://www.speed-source.net/products/3sgte.htm

[adamh]

The mount templates in the download section were only for a 3vz and using a modified right side mount on my own mk1 v6, as templates they will allow you to get it somewhere near but without a jig it will need to be manually aligned up/down,left/right,forward/aft and the final hole position for the hanging bolts marked and drilled to suit.Do not use the hole positions on the templates as they will not work on a 1mz.

You don't need to use the spacer rings at all.

as paul mentioned the mount plates will get you somewhere near, the rest you align by hand, when your happy mark the mount holes as he described earlier with paint dots once the engine is in position.

L + R are tricky because they take a bit of alinging and your nervous because you dont want to put it in the wrong place, do them first (listen up), front and back dont even worry about...... you make them 'after' the engine is hanging, understand? make them after the engine is hanging and you cant go wrong.
((Yes we hang the engine off left and right, pivot / jack it to about 'ah that looks about right!', plenty of clearence front and back')) cut the templates to suit the gaps.. snot it together!. easy as pie, seriously.

with respect to the speed source mounts i wouldnt bother with them, no disrespect, you'll probably end up cutting them up, i have no idea how much they cost or cannot say if they fit. if i had no gaurantee of something fitting, i would buy it with a view to cutting it up potentially, if im going to do that i may aswell just make me some from scratch and save the cash,
you could ask the guy that makes the speed source mounts if they will work but i doubt he has experience of mounting a 1mz. the link is also dead.

you'll need to use a MIG for the engine mount plates to chasis , if you use an arc welder it will blow a hole through the thin side wall panels there its too hot. use mig its alot cooler and you can do little stitches and join them all up with spots etc. for the mounts again you can use mig, probably this time better to use a nice arc to do the mounts thats when you want the amps putting the thick plate together with thick plate, otherwise get snotting with that mig.

[OlberJ]

With the rear torque mount on an S54 box, you just need to cut the flate base off, turn the rubber mount around and it lines up right for you, it's a fookin doddle.

The u-shaped bracket stays as it is IIRC.

Then the front one you just make to fit.

[aigochamaloh]

With the rear torque mount on an S54 box, you just need to cut the flate base off, turn the rubber mount around and it lines up right for you, it's a fookin doddle.

The u-shaped bracket stays as it is IIRC.

Then the front one you just make to fit.

I'm using an E153 box.

Since three of the mounts are on the tranny, can I use the front and rear mounts from this kit?

http://www.speed-source.net/products/3sgte.htm

Hopefully I can, then it'll just leave me with the left and right (front of motor) mounts. I'm going to see how much room I have to work with and play around with the stock 4A mount.

[OlberJ]

The only problem with that is if the 1.5 mounts from speed source put the V6 in the wrong position.

Remember the V6 is a different shape to the 3SGTE, the speed source mounts are tailored for the 3SGTE. I don't know for sure but it might put it a bit too high, a bit too low etc.

Now, if the gearbox top mount is actually in the correct position then you can use that one and both the torque mounts from speed source but you are again running the risk of the engine being at the wrong angle/position in the bay and hitting something.

If the gearbox top mount is even slightly different then the torque mounts from speed source wont work with the V6 either.

Afraid it's a case of suck it and see mate. It's possible you can use 3 of the speed source mounts but it may well make your V6 hit the engine lid or front firewall.

The thinking was previously, if the Mk1.5 jig replicates the Mk2 mounts it'd work with a mk1.6 as u can put a V6 straight in a Mk2 turbo engine bay but it's not the case really.

Hope that helps mate.

[Paul Woods]

As olie says the 1.5 mounts are no good for hanging a v6, they just don't sit in the right position.

[aigochamaloh]

Alrighty, so even the front and rear mounts on the tranny won't line up with the speedsource kit.

I was just wondering, because even I couldn't figure out that it would work, with the V6 being a tad longer than the I4. Welding on all 4 mounts is necessary huh? Fun fun.

[OlberJ]

V6 is shorter than the I4 am pretty sure, it's only 3 cylinders long.

[aigochamaloh]

V6 is shorter than the I4 am pretty sure, it's only 3 cylinders long.

This is what I thought as well at first, but a crude measurement with a tape measure from crank pulley to block/tranny face said otherwise. I will do a better one since both engines are out of the car.

[OlberJ]

Well, it can't be much in it, infact there's fook all if you think about each in a Mk2.

[aigochamaloh]

Got pressure plate bolts today. Hopefully by tomorrow, I will have the flywheel and clutch done up, and also the tranny mated to the block. If I have time, fuel pump will be swapped.

I am about to go get an angle grinder as well. Is a 4" sufficient or should I go with something like 7"?

[adamh]

4.5 is the best for this work, if you get larger you'll find it difficult to get in tight.

[aigochamaloh]

Ok thank you. Will pick that up and a welder soon.

I want to clean up the tranny before I put it together, it is filthy. What is the best way? A scrub pad and dish wash soap? :) Or does that engine cleaner stuff work?

[adamh]

i dont know man, but give it a lick off silver spray after you cleaned and it will look well.

[OlberJ]

Some detergent on the box, leave it to do it's magic then agitate it with a brush, get the power hose on there and that'll remove the scum.

Then dry it off and get at it with a wire brush attachment on your drill.

Bit of primer and then some paint. We've been doing the majority of ours black instead of silver recently and i reckon they look miles better. Same with inlet fannymoulds but that might just be me.

[snowtigger]

they will get full of shit oil and grease any way, you may as well paint it black.

[aigochamaloh]

What a pain. Went to throw on the flywheel and clutch, and the flywheel is far too big.

The bolt holes don't seem to line up, and the flywheel diameter makes it seem like I will not be able to bolt the tranny on. This is concerning.

Contacted the people I bought the flywheel from. Their ad states that it fits 1992-2001 TOYOTA CAMRY 3.0L V6 ONLY in addition to the MR2 turbo and GT4 Celica. Any thoughts?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/111.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/112.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Bah, I was going to drop the fuel tank after I found out about the flywheel.

Avalon fuel pump is slightly different. I guess I'll have to get a supra fuel pump or a MR2 turbo fuel pump if I want it to fit in the cradle tightly.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/113.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Put the clutch and pressure plate together on the flywheel. Everyone matches up perfectly and the bolts I bought from Aaron turn smoothly.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/114.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/115.jpg

Maybe I need to go out again tomorrow and see what is going on. I need to see where exactly the tranny touches the block face and see if the flywheel will clear. If it will, then I need to find out why the crank bolt holes are so out of line.

[Paul Woods]

Basically their advert is wrong, an Mr2/Gt4 flywheel has a different PCD on the bolt holes that a v6 one, as you can clearly see from the pics.What we do, when we want to use a 3sgte flywheel on a v6, is have the holes drilled out to make them fit.

[aigochamaloh]

Basically their advert is wrong, an Mr2/Gt4 flywheel has a different PCD on the bolt holes that a v6 one, as you can clearly see from the pics.What we do, when we want to use a 3sgte flywheel on a v6, is have the holes drilled out to make them fit.

Damn, this does not make me happy. I will be making some calls tomorrow.

Have people had issues running flywheels with having the bolt holes elongated to fit? Even then, like I said, I don't even see how the tranny would bolt on, as the teeth seem to stick out past where the tranny would be hitting the block.

[adamh]

get a 1mz flywheel from fidanza?! send that back. im not sure what pressure plate and friction plate works with the fidanza fly and your e153.

http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=15188&highlight=1mzfe

[aigochamaloh]

According to http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=14253

e-153 Turbo tranny (LSD or not)
-Modified Turbo Flywheel(elongate the holes) and complete turbo clutch
-3vz-fe or 1mz-fe flywheel and complete turbo clutch

I thought I was going the 1MZ-FE fly and complete turbo clutch route. I have the complete turbo clutch. I guess I'll either have to modify the turbo flywheel I have or buy a REAL 1mz/3vz fly. I don't want to shell out for the Fidanza at the moment. I see a OEM 3VZ-FE flywheel (22 lbs) for $100 brand new, but that is heavy.

[OlberJ]

Send it back and get the 1MZ flywheel sent out if they've got it. If they don't then get it drilled out to the correct pcd, shouldn't be much i wouldn't have thought.

As long as that is a Mk2 turbo flywheel then it'll definitely fit inside the E153 tranny. It has to.

[aigochamaloh]

Send it back and get the 1MZ flywheel sent out if they've got it. If they don't then get it drilled out to the correct pcd, shouldn't be much i wouldn't have thought.

As long as that is a Mk2 turbo flywheel then it'll definitely fit inside the E153 tranny. It has to.

I can't find any chromoly lightweight flys for the 3vz or the 1mz. Guess i'll have to drill it out if I want to use this. I still don't see how it'll fit the box, but I'll have to try that out tonight.

[OlberJ]

If it's an Mr2 turbo flywheel and u got an Mr2 turbo box then yes it will fit.

Remember the ring gear has to be pretty close to the outer edge to allow the starter motor to engage with it. Looks normal from the picture u posted.

[aigochamaloh]

Talked to the eBay seller, they'll be refunding me the full amount plus my shipping cost back to them. Excellent.

I am on a tight time schedule. I guess I'll be picking this up for the meantime.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390068551338&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

edit: Wait, is there a different from the 3VZ-E and the 3VZ-FE? More googling for me!

edit again: On second thought, I have been searching through car-part.com. If the interchange would have allowed for it, I should have seen flywheels from the 4Runner and 'Tacoma' show up, which it hasn't. I probably can't use this.

[OlberJ]

No, that's a 3VZ-E that's not right.

[aigochamaloh]

Right. So my choices now are to drill out that flywheel which I paid $200 for, or shell out another $120 or so for a Fidanza. I prefer the one piece chromoly over the aluminum Fidanza.

I'll call some machine shops about elongating the holes. Will it throw the balance off the flywheel or cause some issues on the crank?

edit: The Fidanza for the 1MZ is ONLY 9 POUNDS!? Interesting, this may be worth the extra $120 or so.

[OlberJ]

Shouldn't cause any issues as the holes are all elongated the same amount around the PCD.

[aigochamaloh]

Thanks OlberJ for all the help. I've decided to send it back, and I just ordered the Fidanza for $60 more, coming in from New York. I guess in the meantime, I will drop the fuel tank in preparation for the fuel pump that I've got to order, and I'll get the angle grinder and prep the chassis. I hope I can finish this swap before September 18!

[aigochamaloh]

Outer CVs are here with ABS rings on. At least I hope they're rings.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/156.jpg

You're saying that I can hammer the little 'keeper' ring and the toothed ring off?

[adamh]

should be abled to, it looks like a pressed steel part which has itself been pressed onto the cv, you can see the flange lip on either side of it. its only for a proximity sensor so i would almost gaurantee it's a light press fit, it's not mechanically functional.

just out of interest why bother taking them off!? are they getting in the way of something? i think i left mine on the rear CV's, didnt foul on anything.

dont spit at me ollie i left mine on :)

[aigochamaloh]

Oh really? I tried sliding the joint into the hub and it seemed to go in until the ABS ring part. I didn't push that hard though. I'll go try it again.

[aigochamaloh]

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/157.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/158.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/159.jpg

This time it slid in very smoothly. I'm glad the outer CV fits just fine. I have my turbo axles so now I have my complete axle setup.

The axle end sticks out a lot, and slides RIGHT up to the ABS ring. Can I use it like this?

[aigochamaloh]

Past the point of no return for sure now. Cut the left mount to this.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/163.jpg

How do I get that seal crap off the rail? And the parts where the mount is welded to the rail, is it welded along the whole edge or just spot welded?

[Marksman]

Just spot welded. The chassis is also made of thicker metal then the mounts which means you can bang a chisel or some such in there and the mount will bend not the chassis!

Good luck,

Owen.

[aigochamaloh]

I will go get a wire brush head to get that sealer out of there.

Got the MK2 turbo mounts in the mail today. I know one obviously is the tranny mount. I think the silver mount is the right side engine mount, but not sure. And I'm unsure whether the remaining mount is the front or back mount. Can someone clarify for me? I will go searching for MK2 turbo mount pictures in the car.

On the tranny mount, what are the two additional bolt holes on top for?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/165.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/166.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/167.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Now the mount is like this. The wire brush worked great, except when the material got so hot it started smoldering. Does not smell good and is most definitely not good for my lungs.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/168.jpg

Is it really spot welded? It looks like its joined to the rail all around the mount. I have no idea how I'm going to get this rail flat.

[aw11man]

yup, definantly spot welded.

use a grinding disc in your grinder and carefully grind the mount down, you should, when you get further down see where the spot welds are

[aigochamaloh]

yup, definantly spot welded.

use a grinding disc in your grinder and carefully grind the mount down, you should, when you get further down see where the spot welds are

Will do. I'll continue to cut away as much as I can, then switch to the grinding wheel.

[adamh]

the small bracket with two threads on top of the trans mount, what it did on the turbo is joined the mount to the gearbox at another position, see here you will also see the mount plates i did for my turbo install on the trans mount.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/169.jpg

you can see the cam side mount from above here , im really not sure if you can use that mount with the 1mz!, you would have to ask a 1mz chap.. try limey.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/170.jpg

the other mount(last picture) is your front gearbox mount, down by the front bulkhead that will go eventually, although you'll have to chop it about and add some plate, just keep the rear U shaped bit, and the round bit you'll have to modify, its not hard, for a rough example look here, it should be near similar to that what you make.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/171.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/172.jpg

and for the rear gearbox mount you'll be ending up with something like this

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/173.jpg

i hope that fills in some blanks. cut off your ABS rings if they are troubling you, you do not need them.



edit.. i think the 1mz sits lower than normal so the mounts might not be that similar to the turbo fitted to the e153. , check w/limey , olber? i wish had it infront of me !

[aigochamaloh]

Thank you thank you!

I am thinking of purchasing 4v6's mount for the 1mz that will bolt up to the MKII mount that I have. I will probably go that route, as I have no way to fab a mount like that.

Your plates are pretty thick too. I only bought about 3.25mm mild steel as that's the only standard gauge commonly available around me about that thickness (11 gauge). My welder is only a 90 amp as well, so I hope it's strong enough to penetrate the 11 gauge.

The ABS ring does not hang on anything, it slides right in up to the ring, and looking at my other axles, it looks correct for the time being.

[aigochamaloh]

Damn that grinding wheel is insane. Chassis rail is now smooth and flat, ready for welding. Just got to get rid of the little bits of mount left on the vertical part, then on to the right side.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/177.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/178.jpg

[adamh]

yup clean that right off, and clear where your going to weld by at least one inch. remember to clean off a large patch of paint up the side walls of the engine bay some, you'll need to weld up the side walls aswell with the mounts, your 90 amps may be good for the thin bay walls. although i am not sure if it will penetrate the thicker chasis rails, you can only try, i'd say at least 130 - 150amp mig with gas is callin out!. just for an example i cleaned right around the top of these plates and to the sides by about one inch before welding, i then used a 'weld through primer' as a primer before welding tghe plates on. HERE (http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/mountwelds.jpg) i did both side plates at the back and the top plate at the back later on, the bottom welds were triple runs, i made sure they were strong and ran into each other well. the welds on the side walls were continual spot welds at short intervals to stop blowing through the panel.

theres always someone about with a bigger mig ..

[aigochamaloh]

Hmm, jumping up to something with more bang requires 220v power which I do not have at home. Guess I'll have to try the 90A, hopefully the 25% duty cycle lets me hold the handle there at a low wire speed for awhile.

How would I even know how well it penetrated the chassis rail? Bang at it with a mallet?

[aigochamaloh]

Fidanza flywheel is here. Kinda disappointed in the quality, as it has surface rust on it. The XTD was worlds better. Anyhow, it's going on today.

Now the question of clutch face direction. When the main spring pack is bulging out towards the pressure plate, is it positioned correctly?

Also, my clutch kit came with the throwout bearing I'm familiar with, with the spring on it, but there is also this tiny bearing that I have no idea where it goes. Any ideas?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/191.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/192.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/193.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/194.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/195.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/196.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/197.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/198.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/199.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/200.jpg

Got the flywheel on at 61 ft-lbs, and the BGB's I'm reading are saying 14 ft-lbs on the pressure plate. I think that is ridiculously low, is that correct?

Also, went to go put the tranny on, but there is one dowel pin thingy that matches up to a dowel pin on the block. I need to get one out from one side, how do I go about doing that?

[adamh]

if what you wanted to is leave a clean hole for an 'opposing' dowel to fit in, then what you want to do is mark behind that dowel on the gearbox casting with a centre punch where you think the centre of the dowel is.. then get yourself a drill perhaps 6mm, and drill through behind the dowel until you touch theback of the dowel and cannot drill anymore. then flatten the face of the drill put it back in the hole and just touch the bottom of the hole so its flat.. then get a 5mm drill blank or a long 5mm bolt (3/16" in yank) and drive the dowel out, it will come out if you use a nice strong bolt to drive it.

the bearing i have no idea, unless there is a bearing on the shifter fork or something, why not ask fidanza what its for?

the fly face is not usually coated with any rust inhibitors, they usually just put an antidesicant in the box to stop the damp eating at the uncoated metal. its nowt to worry about. ijust checked my 91 turbo BGB for the friciton plate spec is 14Lb/ft here also, it wouldnt hurt to put another 3-4 pounds on.

[OlberJ]

If you don't wanna go drilling, try pulling first.

You should have 2 dowels in either the gearbox or the engine or 1 in each at the different points.

If you've got 2 in the engine and 1 in the box you'll have to pull the one out the box (easiest way) with mole grips and a screwdriver to lever as u twist the dowel.

They're a cunt to do but they will come eventually.

Remember a bit of copper slip on the dowels when you're putting the box on.

[adamh]

looks like i edited out my grind technique before you posted olber, i read it wrong origonally, red herring mate !.

[OlberJ]

Haha, fair play lol

I'll edit away.

[aigochamaloh]

I sprayed some WD40 overnight, and some blowdryer action on the tranny casing let me pull out the dowel with a pair of small pliers. Amazing.

I am happy that worked before I had to start drilling!

That said, greased up the shift fork, throwout bearing, input shaft and splines, and put it together. I was able to hit 4 tranny to block bolts and 2 block to tranny bolts. Plenty strong. Better yet, the clutch slave went right on without needing me to grind the block down!

I can put the tranny in gear and if I turn the crank with a wrench, the axle spins. That means all is well so far?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/216.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/217.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

The project has been on hold since my last post on the 21st of August. This is due to the fact that I needed the custom mount 4v6 makes here, and he has been held up with other projects and I don't think he has yet to start on it. Absolutely not a problem at all.

Also, my wiring harness is still not done from mr220v over on mr2oc, and that is fine.

I am planning to finish up the swap perhaps Thanksgiving break or Christmas break. I am now going back up to Norcal for school and will finish when I come back down to SoCal.

[aigochamaloh]

Home for the weekend and some packages were waiting for me. Wiring harness from mr220v and two new axles for the 88-92 V6 Camry.

Took one axle assembly and put it next to the turbo axles. The Camry axle is shorter than the supported side axle portion, and looks to be exactly the same length as the turbo + 88-92 camry outer CV method. Maybe this will be easier than thought. The outer CVs slide straight into the MKI hub as expected. Also, the axle is pretty damn beefy.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/174.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/175.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/176.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/177.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Also got the 4v6 mount before I left for school, but didn't post pictures.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/178.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/179.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Back home for Thanksgiving break, giving me one week to work on the car.

Put the wiring harness back on and buttoned the intake manifold back on top. Also put on 4v6's beautiful engine mount.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/106.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/107.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/108.jpg

I have a question on the axles yet again. Richard, I know you've gone over this with me, but things are not fitting where they are supposed to on my end. I have parts to go either the turbo/st165 outer cv or V6 stubs/st165 halfshaft route. I have one bad turbo axle, so I decided to go V6/st165 route for now, but the supported side stub that stays in the trans is longer than the turbo one. Anyone else encounter this?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/109.jpg

Also, here is a picture of my starter area Richard. No wires in the way I believe, and I can move the shift mechanism easily.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/110.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Finally got the right side mount cut out. I decided to shove the engine under the car and see how things fit. AC hard lines got in the way very quickly, and I decided even quicker that I will not need AC and bent them out of the way. I will take them completely out when I get under the tunnel to do the fuel pump.

Looks like the engine will fit in the bay through the bottom, with some things removed. I'll take the intake manifold, alternator, and maybe the front exhaust manifold off to squeeze it in there. Other than that, looks like no cutting will have to be done.

Still have to get my axle situation figured out.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/115.jpg

[ThingyNess]

Weird. Your starter has its wiring bits in different (and much more convenient) spots than mine. Mine also has its large +12v input from the battery covered under a big rubber boot instead of a grey plastic clamshell-type deal. Hmph. I'll have to keep my eye out for spare random starters at the junkyard. Apparently the newer the starter the lighter they are too as a general rule, so maybe I'll have to find one out of a later Camry.

My v6 stub shafts both fit happily into my E153 transmission though, I already tried them. I don't have a MK2 turbo stub shaft laying around for comparison, unfortunately, but have you considered the fact that you might have inadvertantly acquired an LSD turbo stub-shaft?

I'll go outside tomorrow and take some pics of my two V6 auto stub shaft ends, both from the '98 camry that I took the engine from, and a '92 3VZ one that I have laying around.

[aigochamaloh]

New development...

Is this a LSD box or no? It's supposedly from a 93 turbo, but other than that, I don't know anything more.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/116.jpg

[Paul Woods]

It is almost impossible to guarantee which diff type you have by looking into it, can you post up a pic of the left axle inboard joint, that will tell me which type it is

[ThingyNess]

*grumble*

As much as it makes me hate you, yes indeed that is an LSD box. Time to go LSD axle hunting for you. :)

[aigochamaloh]

Paul, running out to the garage to grab a picture now.

[Paul Woods]

Run forest run! :)

[aigochamaloh]

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/118.jpg

If this is indeed a LSD box, luckily I have the inner stub and can simply bolt one of the turbo shafts I have here. I'll have to acquire the supported side though.

[Paul Woods]

LOL i haven't got x-ray vision bud! i need to see the inner spline of that joint.... it is probably an LSD as thingy says, but this will confirm, pull the joint out and take a pic of the spline.

[aigochamaloh]

Hahaha, with all the knowledge you have, you should have xray vision. Uh...ok, this is important. It's midnight, but I will go pull that joint off.

[Paul Woods]

Well i am off for work now, it's 07:50 here but i will reply at work when i get in around 9am.

[aigochamaloh]

Sounds good Paul! Thanks much!

[aigochamaloh]

I lost some skin getting that out. This damn well better be a LSD box.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/119.jpg

[Paul Woods]

Yep it is LSD as thingy said, sorry for not replying sooner, the work PC was down for reasons that will become clear on another thread :)

[aigochamaloh]

Couple days worth of updates here.

12/20/2009

Fuel tank dropped and pump changed out to higher flowing pump. Tank looks good, minimal rust.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/113.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/114.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/115.jpg


12/21/2009

The axles have been the worst part of this swap. First, my stupidity left me scrambling to find parts and also finding out I had a LSD transmission changed plans a bit.

Those outer CVs DO NOT want to come out easily. The pipe trick failed to work. Then while switching out from a non-LSD to LSD stub, the stupid ball bearings and cage decided they wanted to be free. I could not get them back in after trying for over 3 hours. My uncle and I tried again the next morning, they played nice and went in in just under 10 minutes. Bastards.

That said, I now have nice axles with the correct outer CVs and new boots and grease all around.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/116.jpg

Also put in the mechanical speedo gear I got from Aaron at Lithia, fits perfectly on both ends. New slave cylinder also put in.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/117.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/118.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

The motor is situated inside the bay! Now I can see where it sits and cut out mounts and weld them in.

I have forgotten how low the car really is as it's been butt high for almost half a year now. I have the engine on the ground and am adjusting the height of the car by engine hoist. I think this is the approximate height of the car, but please do comment on it. I really have forgotten.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/119.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/120.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/121.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/122.jpg

Passenger side

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/123.jpg


Driver side

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/124.jpg

I don't know why I waited till I finished the axles to align the engine in the bay. It's not like I really have much room to play with on either end. I guess just centering it in the bay and welding in the mounts will have to do. The axles will have to go in one way or another, and the CV joints have so play to it so I hope that'll do.

Also going to have to deal with the rear bank O2 sensor hanging somewhere on the engine bay. And the rear bank exhaust manifold is jutting into the transmission area, the OEM y-pipe is not going to bolt up.

To get the engine in the bay, the front bank exhaust manifold had to come off, but looks like there is plenty of room in the front of the bay when it's situated. Same for the alternator.

Had to take the intake manifold off to get it in there, and just placed it back on top after the car was lowered over the engine. I should have tried to get it in there with the manifold still on there, perhaps with the front exhaust manifold off it would have fit.

I wonder if I can have this thing 'first started' before I leave for school on Jan 3!

[aigochamaloh]

I was looking through the old 1.6 swaps and I have not seen much on the issue of the exhaust manifold. What have others done about the rear bank angling towards the transmission?

[tripod23]

when i did my celica 1mz swap the manifold had the same issue you have there with the mr2 it was pointing right into the steering rack - so i cut and rewelded the manifold to get clearances which changes the angles in which it falls

[OlberJ]

You just gotta get grinder happy chief :)

Like the Mk3's there's just no room for them as standard so you gotta chop them up and move them slightly. You'll be moving the lambda plug hole anyways so just chop away.

[aigochamaloh]

Damn, I'm sure you guys didn't have to deal with the EGR cooler though. I need the cooler at least until I get the swap legalized and have my sticker, then it can go away.

Merry Christmas!

[aigochamaloh]

Took out the welder today and practiced putting down some beads and spot welds after watching some online lectures from shop class. I think my spot welds are looking ok. The beads are a little difficult to do with one hand as I need to hold my faceshield with the other hand. As soon as I either buy another mask or find a way to attach mine to my face, I can use two hands. The torchhead also gets caught on spatter all the time and hinders my smooth travel.

I was afraid my little 90A flux core MIG wouldn't be able to penetrate the 3.5mm steel I'm using, but it seems to be doing ok. Comparing my steel plate with the portions of motor mount I cut off, the plate I'm using is just a bit thicker than OEM. I'd just like some critique from the more experienced welders out there.

If I simply can't get the technique down by next week, I will not end up welding the mounts in. I can wait till the summer to get more welding practice in, or in the worst case, get someone to come in and weld the mounts in.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/130.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/131.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/132.jpg

What should the back of the plate look like? And how thick is the steel on the chassis rail? I saw a picture of a car cut in half through the engine bay and saw the thickness of the rail somewhat, but I can't find it anymore.

[OlberJ]

Learning to weld is great fun. Would highly recommend an auto darkening mask if you can get one cheap.

Go a bit slower front to back and get your arc nice and even. Pushing rather than pulling seems to give better results visually too.

[aigochamaloh]

Will do. I think I am going to go buy a new spool of flux core as I don't think the one that came with the welder is good. I have been pulling this whole time. One of the above turned out ok, until I got stuck on some spatter.

Am I lingering too long on one spot? What should the back of the plate look like?

[OlberJ]

Just get it nice and even side to side and get a nice thick weld on there.

Unsure about the back of it, BSM is your man to ask on here :thumbsup:

[boostedcamry]

Any plans to supercharger that motor?

[aigochamaloh]

Any plans to supercharger that motor?

No. Not worth the cost of a TRD supercharger. I used to have one and the gains weren't that great. Sold it to someone on solaraguy. I am going to do a 2GR in a couple years, as that motor is more powerful than a FI'd 1MZ. I'd like to stay NA for the simplicity of it and driveability on the track.

[biteme]

The TRD S/C is really not worth the money, when you see what Woodsport and Gouky are coming up with.

It's a nice unit, if you have one, but I'd not spend more than £250 on one, knowing what we know now!!!

[aigochamaloh]

^Exactly. I will do the 2GR in a couple years, maybe a 6-speed solution will be done from Gouky!

New radiator and hoses all throughout the car.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/138.jpg

New fuel filter. The old one wasn't OEM, it was Fram, so I said wth and just bought another Fram.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/139.jpg

Mounts drawn up on cardboard then cut out of 3.5mm mild steel.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/140.jpg

And some more welding practice on the new NR-211 flux core wire. Less spatter and I can actually see the zones of heating to gauge my welding now. More practice to come, maybe I will weld the mounts in tomorrow and fire her up perhaps?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/141.jpg

[antnkel]

No. Not worth the cost of a TRD supercharger. I used to have one and the gains weren't that great. Sold it to someone on solaraguy. I am going to do a 2GR in a couple years, as that motor is more powerful than a FI'd 1MZ. I'd like to stay NA for the simplicity of it and driveability on the track.

Think you'll find he was on about the m90 kit he's been developing

[aigochamaloh]

Happy new year! I am pleased to say that the 1MZ was fired up for the first time today. The left and right mounts are done, just the front and rear to do. Thanks to mr220v on the MR2oc board for the wiring harness, it fired up like nothing was ever wrong. I took your advice and put the automatic gear selector solenoid thing on the harness and put it in "park." Too bad I am going back up to northern California for school. I won't be able to work on the car till March.

Things to finish up
-front and rear motor mounts
-exhaust (probably will have a custom one made, utilizing the stock manifolds and y pipe)
-fuel lines (the banjo line to the rail is much shorter than I anticipated, it is stretched out at the moment)
-coolant lines (I just cut the MR2 lines to fit where the engine sits now just to start it up, will make a more permanent solution when I get back)
-battery relocation up to the front
-cut out A/C pipes from under car
-put in driveaxles (left side is no problem, gotta modify the carrier bearing a bit on the right side)
-shield the shifter cables from the exhaust (they are touching the front manifold)

There are probably some other things to finish up. But I am stoked that the engine fired up and it sounds beautiful.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

[aigochamaloh]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0waZ70WbbM

[aigochamaloh]

Also on the list: check engine light.

Hooking up my scanner shows 7 codes.
P0100
P0110
P0500
P0720
P0753
P0758
P0773

First two are with the MAF, and that is probably because I forgot to connect it when I first tried to start it.

0500 is the speed sensor. The remaining four are for the automatic transmission shift solenoid crap. I better take out all the sensors from the transmission and connect them and tuck them away. Hopefully that takes care of the CEL.

[aigochamaloh]

A question on the tachometer. I've searched and read that there are two ways the 1MZ had tach output, one through the igniter like older Toyota's, and one through the ECU. I believe mine is through the ECU as I have 6 individual coils on my engine. In this case, can I take the ECU tach output and run it through an adapter like so?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220413304939&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Is there a way to build my own generator for less than the cost of this ebay item? If not, I don't mind, but if I could simplify the design since I won't need adjustability and etc for less cost, I would prefer to do so.

edit: Ok, after doing a bit of reading, this device would simply multiply the ECU tach output voltage by a set fraction, in my case, "2/3". If I were to calculate the correct resistors needed to do the job, does anyone see a problem with making my own? Going off of the wiki circuit diagram.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider

edit again: Further reading down the wiki page gives me an equation: Vout = R2/(R1 + R2) * Vin. Since I know that Vout must be (2/3)Vin, I can choose any resistor and solve for the other one. Anyone see an issue?

another edit: The device on ebay has a 12v power requirement. What would it be for? Is there a problem passively changing the output voltage of the ECU tach signal?

[Paul Woods]

yep that ebay one should work fine, good find that, not hugely expensive

[aigochamaloh]

Right, will go that route.

Also, what have people done to isolate the shifter cables and clutch line from the exhaust manifold? They are really close and I don't want them to melt. The old clutch line had a small removable section of plastic with metallic wrapping around it and ideally, I'd like to get some more of that stuff, but where I can obtain it?

[adamh]

oh, missed this!, well done matey, sterling achievement on the start up :thumbsup: , wait till you drive it :) . one word of recommendation, the front mount, before it gets inaccesible make sure the two threaded holes that hold the gearbox side of the front mount in the gearbox are in good shape, remove the bolts and check the state of the threads, if o.k put in some strong loctite , torque them back up nicely but not over-torque. if they were knackered / loose threads you would loose the threads completely quickly in the V6, worth a check and good luck with the rest of the project.

[aigochamaloh]

Working on the car again since it's spring break. Relocated the battery today and pulled out the AC hardlines. Going to get the two remaining mounts finished up hopefully by tomorrow. One damn thing though, the shifter cables. I'm using the E153 box, with the standard bracket that comes with the transmission; the one with the clutch hardlines on it. My front to back shifter motion is ok, but it will not do side to side because the cable is not long enough past the u-clip mounting point. What have you guys done to get around this?

[adamh]

made it longer up front!. have a look around for / shifter cable mods / try here: http://www.twobrutal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=580&highlight=shifter+cables
you could either weld a bit in solid, or make something adjustable to fit.

[aigochamaloh]

made it longer up front!. have a look around for / shifter cable mods / try here: http://www.twobrutal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=580&highlight=shifter+cables
you could either weld a bit in solid, or make something adjustable to fit.

I JUST found that thread in the drivetrain section and you guys have done great jobs there!

After reading it, I unhooked the left/right cable and hooked it up to the bracket on the tranny end. It's off by maybe half an inch or so. My welding skills are terrible. How did you guys cut the rod and then thread the ends?

[aigochamaloh]

Let me run and grab some pictures to help out here, even though it's been well documented.

[adamh]

cut the rod with a hacksaw , make sure, you have enough rod on either end to make it manage-able in the small space space of the cockpit, see, you'll need to be abled to swing a spanner on both ends of the rod.

take both ends of the rod and put a generous chamfer on it (break the cut edge 45 degrees), wipe some cutting grease over the end of the rod, normal grease will do for now, then take your die nut, apply pressure toward the rod, and turn it with a spanner, keep it very straight !, or you will cut a p1ssed thread. run it down 3/4" on each side of the rod.

http://www.engineering-supplies.com/resize_show.asp?path=die%20nut.jpg

the rod is 6mm. we would ususlly have metric m6 x 1.00 die nuts here (uk) as standard, and we just run that down the rod and use standard m6 nuts and or female threaded section to connect it. as shown in the pictures in that thread.

in the US , your 1/4" thread forms are the nearest size OD (6.35mm) , that is only a small discrepancy of 0.35mm (0.175 on the radius) , you would get away with a coarse thread like 1/4" - 20 UNC , and some loctite. for the joining piece, take a piece of round or hex 1/2" rod , cut it 1.5" long (inch and a half) (hex is better to put a spanner on for locking) drill a .200" right thru it, then run a 1/4 - 20 unc tap half way down each end.

Then just put all the pieces together, run the threaded ends down only 1/2" each, you will have extended your changer by 1/2" once both ends are inserted equally.

[aigochamaloh]

Cutting I can definitely do. Spinning a wrench I can do. Sounds like this is the way to go!

For the left/right shifter movement, the stick is supposed to spring back on its own, but it doesn't seem to do that. I see a spring mechanism in the shifter base itself, but does the tranny selector shaft have a spring action as well? I ask because I move the cable itself and I can then select all gears with the front/back cable connected to the stick, but doing the left/right cable by hand, but the left/right cable will not return to neutral position on its' own.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/126.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/127.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Something like this work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39384

What's the middle connecting piece called after you cut and thread both ends?

[adamh]

yup, that'l do. find yourself a nice piece of 7/16" or 1/2" mild steel hex bar, or round .. and i'll make a quick diag for you.

[adamh]

For the left/right shifter movement, the stick is supposed to spring back on its own, but it doesn't seem to do that. I see a spring mechanism in the shifter base itself, but does the tranny selector shaft have a spring action as well? I ask because I move the cable itself and I can then select all gears with the front/back cable connected to the stick, but doing the left/right cable by hand, but the left/right cable will not return to neutral position on its' own.



the only spring so to speak is in the gearstick base assembly, as you mentioned. the gearbox does have a spring action* but it does not move the gear stick back to centre. I wouldnt worry so much until you have it all back together, you will find it will probably work o.k, unless before you stripped the car the lever did not work!.

ok, so two quick diags to help here: diag1 (http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/emco/mr2/Picture49a.jpg)
and here... diag2
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/emco/mr2/Picture50b.jpg)
so, you'll need to find a piece of solid bar or hex to make the joining piece from (you have an m6x 1 tap coming in that box set. when you find a bit of bar , cut it to 36mm long, drill through 5.2mm (about .202") then run the tap through, make sure you use cutting fluid or oil at the very least, remember , after every turn of the tap... back it off one half turn to break the swarf and release it, and then continue cutting, then back it off , one half turn, so on and so forth, make sure you hold the tap dead true to the hole, and do not get over excited, taps are very brittle and will break if you use excessive pressure, imagine you are holding a piece of glass! if the tap will not turn easily enough, do not force it you need to back it off and re-try. if you have never made a threaded hole with a tap and die,.. you'll need to start somewhere bud.

[aigochamaloh]

Thanks for those pictures! I will pick up the tap and die set today. I believe I have seen joining pieces like that premade at the major hardware stores around here, maybe I'm mistaken. I will take a look and see what's available. If not, I will take the hex bar to the machine shop tomorrow. I need to go so that they can fab the front motor mount anyway.

[aigochamaloh]

Also tried bolting up the alternator today. The standard 1MZ tensioning bracket sticks out a bit much, I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow. Have others been able to straight up use the OEM bracket?

[Limeymk1]

Also tried bolting up the alternator today. The standard 1MZ tensioning bracket sticks out a bit much, I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow. Have others been able to straight up use the OEM bracket?

My alternator's sat on the standard mounting hardware, however I'm not sure if my engine's mounted a little further back compared to yours. :hmm:

[aigochamaloh]

My alternator's sat on the standard mounting hardware, however I'm not sure if my engine's mounted a little further back compared to yours. :hmm:

Hmm, did you cut your rear firewall? I didn't, but my intake manifold is almost touching the firewall, as well as the rear bank exhaust manifold. I think I got it back almost as far as it'll go. I think the bracket hits the oil cooler just a little bit, so I may shave 1 mm off the bracket and it'll fit.

[aigochamaloh]

With a little help with the angle grinder, the alternator bracket has been modified to fit. Just.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/129.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/130.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/131.jpg

Also, Adam, I found these at Home Depot. Lucky me!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/132.jpg

Of course they're not in metric sizes, so I'm going to have to exchange that metric tap and die set I bought yesterday for a SAE set. Unless I find a die close enough to the US equivalent.

[aigochamaloh]

Also, trying to work out the CEL for the auto solenoids.

http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=14325&highlight=ecu+resistor

Will what is suggested here on this thread work?

This is the pinout of my 1995 Avalon ECU.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/133.jpg

edit: Just realized it's for a 3VZ. Is there anything similar for the 1MZ? I heard of a resistor mod to fool the ECU into thinking the solenoids are there. Anyone have any word on that?

[smccullie]

do you have any pics of the full engine bay, i am doing the same swap and just want to see how you have it sitting

[adamh]

the threads in those threaded parts are a bit too big! they are UNC. and 3/8" diameter and 5/16" diameter. you need 1/4" .. try and find 1/4" - 20 .
see.. the shifter cable will go straight through those threads without touching the sides its too small for them.
hey, if you cant find a 1/4 -20 piece, p.m me your adress, i'll make it or the metric M6 x 1, f.o.c , and stick it in the mail.

[aigochamaloh]

the threads in those threaded parts are a bit too big! they are UNC. and 3/8" diameter and 5/16" diameter. you need 1/4" .. try and find 1/4" - 20 .
see.. the shifter cable will go straight through those threads without touching the sides its too small for them.
hey, if you cant find a 1/4 -20 piece, p.m me your adress, i'll make it or the metric M6 x 1, f.o.c , and stick it in the mail.

Thanks!

I got home and looked at it compared to the cable and realized how big they were. There were several smaller sizes available I think, so I'll go back after I cut the cable and take it with me to make sure. I'll let you know, but I really appreciate the offer!

I hope to drive the car on Monday or Tuesday. I'm getting the mounts welded tomorrow. That leaves the shifter cable, and the axles. The right side axle seal is SO gone to hell that I can't get it out. I ended up ripping it off a small piece at a time, but the inner ring of the seal is still stuck in the diff and I can't get it out. I'll have to get some type of pick tool to pull it out. Other than that, it's ready to go I think.

[snowtigger]

use a manchester screwdriver (a hammer and a small flat head screwdriver and prise it out mate if you have shagged it, just dont shag the mounting surface for the new one).

[adamh]

With a little help with the angle grinder, the alternator bracket has been modified to fit. Just.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/131.jpg


just looking at this picture.. that is upside down right.. i.e; thats the lowerf ront crossmember in the engine bay isn't it? (top of picture).
if it is, how much clearence do you have between the mount bracket and member?

if it is very small i.e; less than 20mm clearence, i would generally make myself a custom bracket. you'll need a clear inch there (25mm) because the engine torques up and down on the mounts, even if you had the stiffest mounts, it would still flex maybe 10mm under throttled starts etc. your alternator bracket would then bang against the chasis. you know the screw type belt tensioning mechanism is not totally necessary, i run my turbo bracket without a screw mech, and as long as the holding nut was fully torqued up i never suffered any slipping belts or loosening. just torque up the alternator with a pry bar to tension the belt and hold it torque'd before locking the screw off. you could chop that tensioning mechanism off to gain clearence, and just weld up the end of the bracket legs that remain, together. Do not be too afraid. As i said i would make one to fit, or if i did not have the means, i would just get the guy who is welding up the mounts to help you out.

1289

[aigochamaloh]

just looking at this picture.. that is upside down right.. i.e; thats the lowerf ront crossmember in the engine bay isn't it? (top of picture).
if it is, how much clearence do you have between the mount bracket and member?

if it is very small i.e; less than 20mm clearence, i would generally make myself a custom bracket. you'll need a clear inch there (25mm) because the engine torques up and down on the mounts, even if you had the stiffest mounts, it would still flex maybe 10mm under throttled starts etc. your alternator bracket would then bang against the chasis. you know the screw type belt tensioning mechanism is not totally necessary, i run my turbo bracket without a screw mech, and as long as the holding nut was fully torqued up i never suffered any slipping belts or loosening. just torque up the alternator with a pry bar to tension the belt and hold it torque'd before locking the screw off. you could chop that tensioning mechanism off to gain clearence, and just weld up the end of the bracket legs that remain, together. Do not be too afraid. As i said i would make one to fit, or if i did not have the means, i would just get the guy who is welding up the mounts to help you out.

1289

Thanks for the concern! The black thing is actually the oil cooler, which is not even plumbed at the moment. The bracket is not close to the crossmember at all. That section of the cooler actually flexes a bit on it's mounting nut as well. There's about 1.5 cm room as it is, and if it does hit the cooler, I don't think it's a big deal.

I didn't know that the alternator would hold by itself just by the pivot nut. IIRC, that's the way the original MKI alternator is set up right? I remember having to tighten it by a pry bar. If it works out that way, I'll take that bracket out, it's heavy!

[aigochamaloh]

I reread what you typed and I see what you mean here. I could do that as well! I just want to drive the damn thing! :)

[adamh]

ah thats the oil cooler, well say no more then, i mistook it for the cross member. and no the alternator wont hold itself on just the pivot nut, i just mentioned removing the scew tensioner mech (green line cut). still keeping the actual locking nut mechanism intact, which is just behind it.. and of course the pivot nut is under the alternator, yeh that locks aswell.

/ if its clear from the cross member then your aok. if its too close to the rear wall, FBH works well.

[aigochamaloh]

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/165.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/166.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/167.jpg

Adam, found the exact connecting link I needed.

The shifter end threaded properly. I utterly failed on the cable side. Didn't want to create a mess welding it in there and trashing my interior, so it is now setting with JBWeld.

These are sitting in my room as well. Gotta save up for Koni's!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/168.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/169.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Also, I wired up the adjustable tachometer adapter that I mentioned earlier. I get nothing on the tacho.

I read this thread: http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=14485&highlight=tachometer

I'll have to check which wire the signal is tapped from, but I believe that is all fine and dandy. The LED on the adapter lights up correctly for the setting I chose and it seems to be receiving signal as it counts the revs with the light. I don't get anything on the tacho itself though. Since I have the 6 COP 1MZ and the signal is coming from the ECU, is it a 12V pulse as mentioned in the above thread?

I hooked up the tacho wire directly to the ECU output wire before I even did this adapter thing and it still have nothing. Should it have read something, albeit incorrectly?

[adamh]

nice springs. right, do not worry too much about the failed thread.. you have to learn somewhere, the other one looks great. cutting threads with a small die in that circumstance in the cockpit is not especially easy even after years and years of practice, cutting grease helps the best, and putting a good chamfer on the end, and putting enough pressure (lots) to get the thread started, then easing off the axial pressure and continuing with rotary when you have a few full threads. i've wiped plenty of bar ends down i can say!. What i should have said, is to practice first on some 6mm bar (sorry) i have failed you there. yup there are lots of quick metal type remedies, and they are all probably better than what i think of them lol , i have never used one.

not sure about the speed sensor wire.

[aigochamaloh]

nice springs. right, do not worry too much about the failed thread.. you have to learn somewhere, the other one looks great. cutting threads with a small die in that circumstance in the cockpit is not especially easy even after years and years of practice, cutting grease helps the best, and putting a good chamfer on the end, and putting enough pressure (lots) to get the thread started, then easing off the axial pressure and continuing with rotary when you have a few full threads. i've wiped plenty of bar ends down i can say!. What i should have said, is to practice first on some 6mm bar (sorry) i have failed you there. yup there are lots of quick metal type remedies, and they are all probably better than what i think of them lol , i have never used one.

not sure about the speed sensor wire.

Well, I'll post a picture of what it looks like tomorrow. It will have set for over 24 hours. It claims that I can grind it down just like steel and it's rated for 3000 psi of tensile strength and etc. I've had great luck with epoxy in other non-automotive things, so I decided to give it a try. I had cut down my shifter cable way too much already, so I'm going to have to buy threaded rod tomorrow and use two connecting links, which is not a big deal.

I hope tomorrow is the day! Just one more mount to finish up in the morning, and then get the axles situated. I'll bleed the clutch one more time with fresh fluid and off to the exhaust shop I drive, very loudly I hope! rotflmao

[aigochamaloh]

If anyone is able to answer this question quickly, I'd appreciate it. This is the only thing standing in the way of me driving the car today!

Working on the supported shaft side, I know the bearing has to move 4mm towards the diff. I'm using a non-LSD supported shaft on a LSD box. I also have the V6 auto supported shaft as well, and am I correct in that that needs to move 4mm as well?

I took off the little retaining clip and c-clip behind the carrier bearing. Is there anything else I need to do before I can move the bearing? Mine will not budge. Is machine work required? I am assuming that the c-clip in back and the big clip in front hold the bearing in place. Anything I'm missing?

[adamh]

yup the v6 auto shaft needs moving aswell if you were to use that, you should see if it locates in the diff fully or not and by how much if you move the dust seal back a bit.
once you have moved the bearing, you need hold it in place, so you move the clip groove over (re-cut it ), using a machinist, or you can have a spacer washer made to fit the gap. to make sure the bearing will sit 4mm closer to the flange end, you may need to flatten off the rad at the start of the flange. if you read pauls v6mr2 guide in the filestore here, it explains this.

if you have removed all the clips / and are surely sure none are hiding.. then the only thing holding that bearing is ..rot.. and a press fit, which may take nearly half ton to a ton to push out, or unluckily more. you may get lucky with a good steel or copper mallet and bashing bar, sometimes its hard to get the right purchase on the strike without damaging the race way seal, if not take the supported shaft and bearing carrier to someone with a press , like a garage, and get them to blip it out for ya. once out.. clean the bore with emery, and grease. and it should go back in easier. all bearings generally should be a very slight interference fit, you should be abled to just knock them in without using too much effort.
oh and careful not damage the bearing, apply pressure to the outer and inner rings only dependant on the thrust direction. you would help yourself by cleaning any scale off the shaft diameters which it slides over... if you get caught on any high spots you'll have more grief getting it off, emery cloth the larger diameters.

[aigochamaloh]

yup the v6 auto shaft needs moving aswell if you were to use that, you should see if it locates in the diff fully or not and by how much if you move the dust seal back a bit.
once you have moved the bearing, you need hold it in place, so you move the clip groove over (re-cut it ), using a machinist, or you can have a spacer washer made to fit the gap. to make sure the bearing will sit 4mm closer to the flange end, you may need to flatten off the rad at the start of the flange. if you read pauls v6mr2 guide in the filestore here, it explains this.

if you have removed all the clips / and are surely sure none are hiding.. then the only thing holding that bearing is ..rot.. and a press fit, which may take nearly half ton to a ton to push out, or unluckily more. you may get lucky with a good steel or copper mallet and bashing bar, sometimes its hard to get the right purchase on the strike without damaging the race way seal, if not take the supported shaft and bearing carrier to someone with a press , like a garage, and get them to blip it out for ya. once out.. clean the bore with emery, and grease. and it should go back in easier. all bearings generally should be a very slight interference fit, you should be abled to just knock them in without using too much effort.
oh and careful not damage the bearing, apply pressure to the outer and inner rings only dependant on the thrust direction. you would help yourself by cleaning any scale off the shaft diameters which it slides over... if you get caught on any high spots you'll have more grief getting it off, emery cloth the larger diameters.

Hahaha I am off to the machine shop again tomorrow morning. I pushed the axle in as far as it. It engages the diff by 3.75 inches exactly, and that's it. The V6 pdf that is hosted here shows the bearing needing to be moved away from the diff, but that's not correct is it. I will have it pressed out and moved 4mm and the clip groove remachined.

Despite that fact, I put it all together, took it for a spin! I am in love again with the car. And then it spit the axle out 3 blocks later. Funny, that's the only half-ass thing I did and it bit me very quickly. I will put it together again tomorrow and have video up!

[aigochamaloh]

Move the bearing 4mm to the flange end? Is that the 6 allen bolt end? That's what this writeup says.

http://www.mr2mk1club.com/V6MR2.html

On my car, the axle locates fully into the diff, and I need to move the bearing towards the diff so that it can locate in the bearing carrier and lock in with the ring. Is this not the norm?

It says in this thread: http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=14253&highlight=supported+shaft

**All E153 onto either 3vz or 1mz engines will require the carrier bearing moving 4mm towards the diff on the supported shaft.

[aigochamaloh]

I ended up moving the bearing over towards the diff by quite an amount. Have not measured, but it is definitely at least double 4mm.

That said, took a longer drive today, and feels great. Now I'm off to the exhaust shop.

[aigochamaloh]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyeh5ly6c5I

[OlberJ]

Haha, fantastic chief. Well done :)

Sounds very muscle car with no exhaust on lol

[aigochamaloh]

Haha, fantastic chief. Well done :)

Sounds very muscle car with no exhaust on lol

It sounds awesome with no exhaust. I reused the MKI backbox for now and it is silent. How lame is that? I didn't expect it to be so quiet, because the 4AG was loud. Maybe later I will change it out. It's either that or the Avalon cat that is welded on there.

[aigochamaloh]

I want to thank everyone here on twobrutal who has given me advice and put up with me along the way. This swap would have been done much sooner if I didn't attend school 400 miles away for most of the year. That said, it's been worth it. So rewarding to drive. Thank you thank you thank you!

[Moustachio]

Awesome thread/build, fair play to you.:respekt::respekt::praise2::praise2:

[aigochamaloh]

Awesome thread/build, fair play to you.:respekt::respekt::praise2::praise2:

Thank you sir!

I've spent a couple hours getting the stock AW11 tachometer working with the low voltage signal from the 1MZ ecu. The DC voltage coming from the ECU is about 6.5 volts in my car.

This is a diagram of the AE86 tach, which is the same as the AW11 tach.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/2.gif

Here is my actual tach.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/181.jpg

R4 is the ballast resistor, which is a 30k ohm resistor. I changed it out for the 10k, which was not low enough, but putting it in parallel with the 30k to drop it to a 7.5k did the trick. That is all I did, and the AW11 tach works perfectly. R1 and R2 are the calibration resistors, if you choose to go that route. I am using the frequency adjuster right after the ECU and had to change nothing else on the tach to get it to work. I have used my OBDII scanner to get live data and the tach is spot on!

[aigochamaloh]

This is how accurate the tacho is now from what the ECU sees.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/182.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/183.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/184.jpg

[OlberJ]

Sterling work sir!

[adamh]

It sounds awesome with no exhaust. I reused the MKI backbox for now and it is silent. How lame is that? I didn't expect it to be so quiet, because the 4AG was loud. Maybe later I will change it out. It's either that or the Avalon cat that is welded on there.

change it for a larger back box , like a standard turbo back box at least that has twin 2.5" exits. you'll strangle the system with the 4ag box on the back, have an induction kit on also? get one!.

hey, well done, grand achievement.

[aigochamaloh]

change it for a larger back box , like a standard turbo back box at least that has twin 2.5" exits. you'll strangle the system with the 4ag box on the back, have an induction kit on also? get one!.

hey, well done, grand achievement.

I've got an AEM intake system sitting in my room, but right now, I am using the stock black tubing from the Avalon, straight into a cone filter, so it is essentially the same thing.

My exhaust guy was saying the exit at the cat is 2.5", and he had to taper it down to the 1.25-1.5" MKI backbox. I can only imagine how terrible it is for horsepower and the beautiful V6 music. Perhaps after I get this smog legalized, I will change it out. On that end, I have to figure out how to fool the ECU into thinking the autotragic transmission is there. That's if the grounding out the one pin doesn't fix it.

[adamh]

that 2.5" should marry up with a standard turbo box, etc, real well, it wont affect your emissions.

[OlberJ]

If you can get a dual inlet exhaust and run one bank each side i'd defo go for that chief.

[aigochamaloh]

I've seen dual inlet/outlet Magnaflows and I don't see how I will plumb that up with catalytic converters and o2 sensors. That seems difficult with the space available to work with. A good 2.5" muffler all around will hopefully free up the engine to breathe a little more. It is nice how quiet it is though, much better than the drony 4A, but I don't think I'd mind the v6 noise at all.

[aigochamaloh]

BTW, it is only with the help of Mitch from MR2oc that I figured out how to get the MKI tach working. Gotta give credit where it is due.

[aigochamaloh]

Wondering if anyone has on twobrutal has run Megasquirt on the 1MZ. I am thinking of going this route if I go 3MZ/1MZ hybrid in the future.

[Limeymk1]

If you can get a dual inlet exhaust and run one bank each side i'd defo go for that chief.

As long as there's a cross over/balance connection between the 2 banks somewhere along the final section of pipe work, otherwise your exhaust performance is going to suffer.

[GregLeBon]

Wondering if anyone has on twobrutal has run Megasquirt on the 1MZ. I am thinking of going this route if I go 3MZ/1MZ hybrid in the future.

I plan to get mine running with MS3 in the not-too-distant future....

I need the MS3X card, but I'll probably try using my own expansion board if the MS3X takes too long getting to market...(like the MS3 has!)

[aigochamaloh]

As long as there's a cross over/balance connection between the 2 banks somewhere along the final section of pipe work, otherwise your exhaust performance is going to suffer.

Yea I think I'm gonna get a Mangaflow and call it a day. Not enough space to work with easily for me, I'm not brutal enough!


I plan to get mine running with MS3 in the not-too-distant future....

I need the MS3X card, but I'll probably try using my own expansion board if the MS3X takes too long getting to market...(like the MS3 has!)

Let me know how that works out! I wonder what kind of gains standalone tuning will give!

[OlberJ]

As long as there's a cross over/balance connection between the 2 banks somewhere along the final section of pipe work, otherwise your exhaust performance is going to suffer.

That happening in the back box itself seems to be enough to keep the back pressure.

[knightrous]

Wondering if anyone has on twobrutal has run Megasquirt on the 1MZ. I am thinking of going this route if I go 3MZ/1MZ hybrid in the future.

I plan to get mine running with MS3 in the not-too-distant future....

I need the MS3X card, but I'll probably try using my own expansion board if the MS3X takes too long getting to market...(like the MS3 has!)

I'll also be setting my 1MZ up to run on MegaSquirt 2 (Which I already have) before migrating to MS3X (For the extra awesome). There has been someone on MR2OC that has a 1MZ running on MS2, there is some information on his setup if you search the MSExtra forums.

[aigochamaloh]

Thanks for the info! I'll be looking around and gathering some information.

Drove the car from southern California to school in northern California without a hitch today. Rained the whole time! I was able to get 29 US mpg driving around 85, with the RPMs sitting at 4000 the whole time. Damn these short gears. So far so good, the swap almost has 1000 miles on it and it's running awesome! Just gotta get the ECU out of limp mode with those transmission codes.

[aigochamaloh]

I just bought a new O2 sensor and put it in after the catalytic converter. The one I bought has a voltage range from 0-1.5V or so, while the others two that were in there only does from 0-0.5V or so. Doing some research yielded the fact that California spec'd vehicles use the wide-range air/fuel ratio sensors, while the rest of the US gets regular O2 sensors. I may have to replace another O2 sensor because I bent it getting the engine inside the bay, and now I'm getting a CEL for it. Serves me right. This leads me to the next question. What is the range that aftermarket widebands see? Is it an even bigger range than the California spec'd air/fuel sensor?

[aigochamaloh]

Did some wiring for the solenoids today. I have hooked up 10-ohm 50 watt resistors to each solenoid wire. It took me a bit to find this info, so I'll post it up so people know what's what. Maybe my searching skills suck.

Solenoid 1 is Violet
Solenoid 2 is Pink-Blue stripe
Solenoid SL is Yellow-Blue stripe

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/101.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/102.jpg

Wire the resistors straight in line to a ground.

I'll update how the computer sees this this afternoon.

Secondly, I noticed the little plastic cap on the alternator positive nut was melting. I initially suspected that the alternator was getting hot from the exhaust manifold in the smaller engine bay, but I was painfully mistaken. I reached down to take the cap off, and burned myself on the actual nut that holds the positive cable on. WTF! Why would that nut be THAT hot? I'm a little worried that something can happen, such as an electrical fire. I have been noticing that I'll get the 3 lights of death for the alternator sometimes. For instance, on the drive to northern California, I was using my wipers, headlights, turn signals. Everytime the wiper would cycle on intermittent, the charge lights would show up, and when the relay clicks off, the lights go off. Same with signaling. On some clicks of the signal, it would light up the charge lights. Any ideas?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/103.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Found out that the cable wasn't on the alternator stud tightly. Fixed that problem.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/105.jpg

Resistors wired in, CELs are all gone. And the car is faster. How is that possible?

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/106.jpg

Came back from a short blast, re-examined everything. Found a torn CV boot already, and it looks to have been torn for awhile, WTF.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/107.jpg

[adamh]

if any cel's show on a turbo it restricts boost until the cel's are reset. I dont know how the 1mz works but maybe it retards the ignition until they are reset. shame about the boot, looks like quite an angle there coming out of the diff, bit late and all but it should be as straight as possible when fitting the mounts. you may find an aftermarket one will be a little more forgiving as they are longer and generally thinner!, but who's to know it wasnt a small tear from general fitting that just developed.

[aigochamaloh]

It was an aftermarket boot that I fit on there, it lasted less than 1000 miles. It is quite possible that it tore while fitting it in there, or while transporting it around. My dad did somehow pop out all the ball bearings while moving the box around in the garage after all. Anywho, luckily it's the inner portion of the axle, and it looks clean inside, so I don't think there is any damage. Ordered a new boot and have to go pick up grease and the clamp tool now, since I'm not at home. I will monitor the axle situation after I fix it often. I don't know how I could have possibly gotten the axle angle less extreme. Then again, I did not cut the firewall, and the intake manifold is almost touching the rear firewall, so it's as close as it can get.

With the auto transmission solenoid codes, I read that the ECU pulls timing to 5 degrees BTDC across the whole rev range. I can believe that. I took off from the parking lot and got lots of oversteer in first, more so than before the codes were gone. :)

[aigochamaloh]

Well, after a drive today, the car wouldn't start. I was like WTF, but just push started it and it fired up perfectly. I can't believe the starter died already. I hear the relay clicking up front with the turn of the key, but hear weird buzzing noises from the starter. This is a genuine Toyota OEM starter that I put in my brother's car RIGHT before he crashed it, so it has like 2000 miles on it. But it's been over a year, so I'm assuming I can't do a thing about it. I'm pissed.

[aigochamaloh]

Here is a more accurate timeline of what happened.

11am-1pm - work on replacing the CV joint boot, had the radio on the whole time.
1-1:30 - car starts just fine, went for a short drive
1:30-1:45 - drive down the mountain into town and grab food, car is parked for 30 min
2:15-2:30 - car starts perfectly, drive back to school, park at the gym parking lot
2:45 - car refuses to start, push start it and drives perfectly

Alrighty.

-Checked ALL fuses, none are blown.

-Took out every single relay and reseated them.

-The whirring noise I mentioned earlier from the "front" of the car, Aaron, is actually the fuel pump. The tank is almost empty, so I can hear it and the fuel return dumping fuel back into the tank. Every time I turn the key to start, the pump comes on, as expected.

-Every time the key is turned, I hear the starter relay click, as expected.

-No noises from the starter I think. The buzzing I mentioned earlier was probably the EVAP tank.

This is all the information I have at the time.

[aigochamaloh]

Well halfway down the mountain, I noticed the voltmeter fluctuating a lot. I pulled over, looked at the alternator, thought the nut had worked itself loose again. Drove back to school, disconnected the battery, and checked the nut. Nope, still tight. Put the battery back on, and wow. Dead. Every light on the dash was very dim. I'm taking the battery to get tested, and if it's bad, new battery time.

[aigochamaloh]

Got the battery checked at Autozone. They said the battery was ok, just had an extremely low charge. I'm charging the battery overnight with a tender. If the car starts tomorrow, then all is well. Then it leaves the question why the alternator is not charging the battery, even over short 15-30 minute drives. It's as if it doesn't do anything and the battery just drains over time. I'll have to check how it goes with a fully charged battery. Perhaps my radio playing really did it a number.

[aigochamaloh]

Battery fully charged via tender already, wasn't expecting that. Threw it in the car, all lights and etc bright and nice as normal. Car still won't start. Other than the starter itself just giving up the ghost randomly, what else should I look at? Anyone?

[OlberJ]

If the battery charged too quickly then i dare say it's not charged properly. What sort of charger are you using, is it a trickle one?

Check for 12V on the 3 alt plug wires to make sure it's returning charge to the battery.

[aigochamaloh]

Olie, I am using a 12V 6A charger. It states 6-8 hours for a full charge, and it finished after about 5 hours. It's not that "quick" but it so. I may pick up a starter for cheap at the junkyard and try it out.

[aigochamaloh]

Ended up being the starter solenoid. Pulled the starter apart and the contact with the positive pin was almost perpendicular to how it should have been. I took it out bent it back as much as I could, but it isn't pretty. Car starts perfectly again though.

[aigochamaloh]

Split the CV boot on the same side AGAIN! In less than one day, less than 50 miles, the boot is trashed exactly the same way. What am I to do?

[adamh]

just as a side note, i experienced this: "I noticed the voltmeter fluctuating a lot" when driving my mk1, and it was the regulator of the alternator had blown due to having a loose bolt.. it was arcing voltage, the needle was dancing up and down the scale quite drastically once it had blown!, like right upto off the scale and back down to 9v in a half second etc, the car just died after a short while of driving. of course the alternator guys rebuilt it and advised of the problem. very similar to your problem, but i see you have yours going now.

About the boot, well perhaps because the boot is angled so much it gets caught and nipped? i'm thinking on some thing like another cars boot may be bigger diameter, unless you move the engine back / re-position the mounts, you could get a larger boot, make up two rings to sit over the joint and shaft, slit the rings, and then put the boot over the assembly so the larger boot clears the joint enough not to nip it and tear it, it will also give moreflexibility. i know its a fix , but theres nothing wrong with it, cant gaurantee it works but in essence it should. as long as you fit oversize rings you should clear that nipping diameter. hey i'll make you some rings n/p f.o.c if you can find me a big boot and send it, or just send me the bore size of the larger boot, the diameter of the driveshaft end bore, and the diameter of the CV & D/S where the boot sits.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/bootrepair.jpg

[aigochamaloh]

Adam, I just changed the boot again this morning. I clamped the big end where it should be, but didn't clamp the little end down. It naturally stays about 1 inch inboard of where it should be clamped down, so I'm going to clamp it down there and epoxy the end so it doesn't leak. If this doesn't fix it, I will find a larger boot and get you the dimensions. I appreciate it very much!

[aigochamaloh]

Well, after a drive, the boot I just changed did not rip. The stress relief from that extra half inch or so works. The right side outer split now. I am so fed up with this crap. I am going to change every single boot and leave that extra half inch or so slack, clamp it, and epoxy it there.

[aigochamaloh]

Boots are no longer tearing. Went to an autocross yesterday, launched it on my first run, bam! Tore the left motor mounts out. Other three held solid. Limped it back home and now to bust out the grinder and do it again. This should get interesting. Being at school without my major tools is a handicap.

[aigochamaloh]

Thanks for the thread of the month on the front page! That's pretty awesome!

[adamh]

if you tore the mounts out from a hard launch the weld did not penetrate the chasis properly when welding. did you plate in over the top? this is also must, and also spot/seam in the rear of the plates to the side walls. and the rear of the top plates to the side wall, or buy bsm a plane ticket (first you must give him a injection to make him sleep)..

[aigochamaloh]

Adam, in addition to what I said in pm, I will have to get the top boxed. My leftover steel plate is at home though. I am not launching the car anymore, or shifting roughly, until it is sorted out.

[aigochamaloh]

I wasn't planning on upgrading the exhaust for awhile, but I caved in. I bought a Magnaflow round muffler that is 2.5 inches in/out to better flow the V6 exhaust out. Amazon is having a 30% off sale, so it was like $48 shipped. I'm gonna have to have that welded in too, with some new piping and an exhaust tip. Perhaps in a couple weeks.

[adamh]

nice! $48 , be sure to post a sound byte up when its fitted

[quantumtools]

legend, Just sat and read the whole 23 pages, what an awesome ride.. good luck with fixing the niggly things.

[aigochamaloh]

legend, Just sat and read the whole 23 pages, what an awesome ride.. good luck with fixing the niggly things.

Thanks! Almost all the niggly things are done.

Alright, all trouble codes are gone, except two. P1705 and P1765. My Avalon factory manual shows that P1765 will not trip the CEL, but P1705 does. It is the code for the direct clutch speed sensor. On the automatic transmission, there is this speed sensor, in addition to the traditional gear driven electrical sensor. I have both plugged in, but neither are bolted in where they should be, because I have nowhere to put them.

The OBD port is in the trunk, so I left my scan tool to record live data while I drove around. It is showing a vehicle speed as I'm driving around, and it seems to match what I'm doing. How is that possible? Both speed sensors that I know of are connected and just dangling in the engine bay, not measuring anything.

Also, I had the scan tool recording ignition timing advancement. I'm seeing a range of from 13.5 degrees to 45 degrees. That seems like a lot to me. My long term and short term fuel trims are all under 2% or so.

[aigochamaloh]

Olie, since you put the 1MZ into the Spyder, I'm sure you don't have a problem with the electrical speedo drive, but how did you get around the direct clutch speed sensor?

[aigochamaloh]

Just found this while browsing around. This is how the P1705 is tripped.

Output of direct clutch speed sensor (NC2) is 300 rpm or
less under condition a) or b)
a) Vehicle speed: 32 km/h (20 mph) or more
b) Park/neutral position switch: OFF
(2 trip detection logic)

I'm going to put the gear selector thing back on and put it in park, and see if it goes away. If so, then I guess I will have to leave the damn thing connected.

edit: I reread that, it says A OR B, so it'll trip no matter what I suppose.

[OlberJ]

Not too sure but i think if you chuck 5V up the speed sensor wire it keeps that happy.

[aigochamaloh]

Which speed sensor wire, the normal 3 pin connector or the 2 pin direct clutch one?

[OlberJ]

The purple and yellow one IIRC, will need to check notes 2moro.

[aigochamaloh]

I blew a coolant line today. I used the stock MKI lines when I routed them in the beginning anyway. The lower hose fit perfectly with a cut in the right place. The top right one however was a squeeze, and that one burst right at the radiator cap on the V6 spout. Fixed it correctly with some radiator hose I grabbed from Autozone. I should find out what car it came out of, because the bend is perfect. Cut it in half, and used a coupler to connect it to a portion of the stock MKI line that wraps by the engine bay fan.

[Jiff Lemon]

Coolant lines are one of the things I was never happy about with my V6; My plan is to redo the top and bottom hoses with as much solid pipe as possible, then use rubber pipes to link it up.

[aigochamaloh]

Well, my coolant line repair held up. Brilliantly in fact. Nothing else broke while I pushed it around the autocross today. The car is quick! I ran with the regional Porsche Club and was pretty happy with my times. I went with four other friends.

Fastest times of the day for my friends and I:
2006 Audi A4 2.0T (stage 2, aftermarket struts/springs/sways, auto) - 57.5xx
2005 Acura RSX Base (all stock, auto) - 56.6xx
2008 Subaru STI (all stock) - 54.0xx
1987 Toyota MR2 (stock other than the V6) - 53.317
2009 BMW 335i (exhaust) - 53.291

I definitely need new suspension. As far as I know, the suspension is still original, with 240k miles on it. That's gotta go. Look at the body roll!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/05/1.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/05/2.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/05/3.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/05/4.jpg

[adamh]

brilliant shots. how did you find it to drive on the autocross, engine performance in the car, anything you would change? good result again for an aw11!.

[aigochamaloh]

brilliant shots. how did you find it to drive on the autocross, engine performance in the car, anything you would change? good result again for an aw11!.

The engine is great. The car pulls out of any corner with ease. The gear ratios, however, make driving interesting though. I'm having to make the choice of redlining 2nd for a LONG time, or short shifting it to 3rd. I tried both, and my times were dropping when I redlined 2nd.

My friends say that I have so much squat under acceleration, that it is ridiculous. The 335i guy says it looks like it wants to take off, the front lifts up that much! Even with a thicker rear sway bar, the car wants to push out around the corners. But then again, I'm running mismatched street tires, and the fronts are almost gone. I think with good suspension, I could have been very close to the top times of the day. Again, I never found power to be the issue. Grip is the next thing I need.

[aigochamaloh]

Does anyone know how the charcoal canister dealy is plumbed inside? I think I have abnormally high pressures in the tank. When I fill up, the gas cap is slightly wet with gas. Every vacuum line is hooked up, except the small vacuum line that is connected to the charcoal canister. There is the one line going into the body of the car somewhere, and one that goes to the gas tank. Where should I tap the small vacuum line into?

[aigochamaloh]

I weighed my car today for free!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/05/39.jpg

That translates to 1206kg. This was with about 3/4 tank of gas, all my tools, jack, jackstands in the frunk, and some stuff in the trunk.

This is a sunroof model with leather interior, power windows, power locks, radio, blah blah blah. Nothing is stripped off the car, except AC.

[aigochamaloh]

Well, just for kicks, here is a shot of the Magnaflow just sitting in my room till summer.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/05/64.jpg

[snowtigger]

Is that a sports cat or just the zorst?

[aigochamaloh]

It is this exact straight through muffler.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCFZZ6/ref=oss_product

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/displayapplications.asp?partnumber=10436

[snowtigger]

Exhaust or zorst dude is good, a muffler is a male giving a female very intimate coitous and you can't hear them cause there muffeled hence muffler, a slang word this side of the pond for a females genitals "muff" or a "muff talker" or my favourite "fairy e muff" which is a play on words fair enough or "furry muff".

The zorst looks good mate and magnaflow are a good company in the states.

[aigochamaloh]

Haha excellent explanation. I should have gotten an interior shot of the muffler. It's actually 2.5" straight through, with perforated interior and packing to muffle the noise somewhat. I'm expecting this to be much louder than the stock MKI exhaust I am currently using.

[aigochamaloh]

Some video from this weekends PacNW MR2 2010 meet in Medford, Oregon. The V6 was a blast to drive!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFS6HmgMQF8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-WGYKNRqmE

I was about 1.5-2.5 seconds behind MR2's with race rubber on. This car should scoot when I get better tires and non-blown suspension on this summer!

[adamh]

hey the wind noise is a bit loud!, got any mounts for the cabin? good perspective in the video also, looks like them tyres got a good hammering :0) !

[aigochamaloh]

Uh oh, edited wrong post. I think I said that my GoPro HD is coming in, and it is in fact here. Also, yes, I do need new tires badly. They are balding all around.

[aigochamaloh]

Speedo cable decided to break on the drive home from Norcal to Socal.
$84 from this joint here and they are local. Had it next day.
http://www.speedometerplus.com/

No more needle wobble and a working odometer again!

Also got a quote on putting my 2.5" Magnaflow in. $60. Awesome. I should take some quality videos of the noise before the new "muffler" goes in. That means $260 spend total on getting the exhaust put together and welded up.

On the other hand, my oil drain bolt is crossthreaded. Bummer. I'm going to try to find a M12x1.25 tap first to rechase the threads, but if that doesn't work, a new oil pan is in store. Might as well modify it baffles so that I don't starve the engine of oil!