View Full Version : Removing the 4a-ge,step by step.

Paul Woods
14-11-2005, 08:42
Hi chaps,someone asked me for a removal checklist the other day and i forgot id done this pictorial guide so i thought id post it back up for anyone that needs it .

found on downloads page.
http://forums.twobrutal.com/downloads.php [download location edited..ignore further links in thread]..

06-01-2007, 02:24
both links dont work for me

06-01-2007, 03:05
TB has changed to a different domain name for now so I swaped the domain name over in the links. One of them works :thumbsup:


09-01-2007, 11:47
Just a minor comment - the guide doesn't mention disconnecting the pipes to the oil cooler:whistle:

Paul Woods
09-01-2007, 19:49
ah thats because its part of your initiation ceremony to forget about them like i did with my first 1.5 swap and have oil piss all over your garage floor :)

09-01-2007, 19:57

Sponge Bob
10-01-2007, 14:58
Happened to me too... it's just lucky Paul didn't omit to say you've got to make sure the engine isn't running when you start trying to take the gearbox off...!! That would have screwed up my garage a bit!!!

11-01-2007, 21:29
nice one gents need that for the misses mk1 lol

24-01-2009, 02:35
This was really useful - thanks Paul

- it took 3 hours start to finish due to the great descriptions and everything coming apart like meccano - in contrast with any of the numerous minis I've played with.

It was a bit quicker stickign an equally young engine (80K) back in - now I dont feel guilty about trashing a relatively good example.

A couple of minor suggestions

- another picture showing the slave cylinder brackety bit stuck up in the air would be good as thats the least intuitive bit.
- I dont think you need to take the distributor off (means you dont have to get the timing right when you stick it back).
- removing the oil pipes is pretty obvious - i let my son do that from underneath .. well he wanted to help.

I found using 2 jacks, then axle stands either side of a fencepost was much easier than one in the middle - it was then as solid as a very solid thing.

I noticed that most bolts on the MR2 dont have spring washers under them - are you meant to locktite or similar ? (I did). Is the preferred goo for the exhaust manifold to clampy bit gungum or bath sealant (the new 0 rings gaskets don't work).

Finally - how time consuming is the wiring / ecu swap / non standard bits for sticking a mk2 2L in as the standard 1600 engine revs great but is gutless.

Thanks again ,

Paul Woods
24-01-2009, 10:21
Glad it helped you and welcome to TB!

If i get a chance one day i will update the guide with better pics/instructions.... the only reason i advise removing the dizzy is that it comes close to smashing on the front bulkhead when the engine is dropped.

The mk2 engine swap is well documented on this forum,its not hard to plumb and wire ,the hardest bit is the new mounts.

24-01-2009, 23:15
- thanks for the welcome - lots of interesting stuff - I hadnt realised the mk2 swap was on here somewhere already as I got sidetracked reading the V6 you did for a Dutch car - amazing ! If I wanted a car rather than the fun of doing it myself I'd be joining the queue.

25-01-2009, 12:58
The Mk2 swaps not here because it doesn't require any modification to the engine bay.

Just bolt it to the gearbox, sort an engine side mount and throw the fooker in.

Shimple. :mrgreen:

27-03-2018, 08:27
i know this thread is super old but im very thankful you took the time to detail the whole process, makes me look forward to extracting the heart from my 86

Paul Woods
27-03-2018, 10:26
You're welcome