View Full Version : AFM Mod
As said yesterday in the acis thread I would be trying the afm mod the one where you lean out the fuel using the cog,
Well done it this afternoon took around a minute to do :thumbsup:
Ended up going for 7 clicks
Tested it from cold on my way home and did seem a little better from cold was not fuelling up as much but still felt a bit slow which is to be expected with a big engine and not been warmed up.
Now the weather on the way home was crap so was hard to tell the difference.
But what I could tell there’s not a huge difference again weather could have had something to do with that as it was a lot colder and wetter than normal.
The engine felt a bit smoother with it done and did not cut out when cold! Now this could just be a coincidence but will find out in the morning.
It did feel a bit more like free and revi at 4k + you could feel that there was less fuel on bottom end but power did come in well on top but not enough difference to definitely say it's better or not.
So I think it would take a back to back dyno to confirm but as said above weather aint helping so will leave it over the next couple of days and report back for you guys.
Hope that's of some help would be interesting to get other peoples views on it after they have done it.
Tom.
Seems like a decent first run mate - just hope for some decent weather in the morning or later in the week or you to drive in. Did you mark the start position of the clicker?
I did mate so i can put it back incase it does not work well as the acis mod felt shit! lol
Would like to try it on a dyno just to see difference but on the save for
chrimbo now,
may try the afm mod where it's close to the tb tomorrow if i can get some 2.75 to 3 inch induction hose at a motor factors.
Have you adjusted the timing ? Seem to remember reading the AFM controls not only the fuel map but ignition map . We could so do with Jeremy at times like these :wierd2:
No mate left the timing for now may have a tweak of that next week :thumbsup:
Just trying one thing at a time to see the difference for myself and to help people out on here who may have been thinking about doing it.
loadswine
16-10-2007, 22:40
Good on you for trying things out and reporting back mate.:thumbsup:
The engine felt a bit smoother with it done and did not cut out when cold! Now this could just be a coincidence but will find out in the morning.
Hi Tom,
Would be interested to know whether this does indeed help with the cutting out when cold.
Mine seems to be stalling a lot more that before - used to do it at exactly the same point (pulling up at a particular T junction) but currently seems to be doing it 3 or 4 times now. Probably due to the colder weather I guess and the engine taking longer to warm up fully (once up to temp its fine?). but anything to alleviate it would be great!
Thanks for this post Tom. What did you use to seal the unit again?
POCVIP'ing from PW!
I have already tried that - bought a spare new icv from ebay, sent it to Paul for pocvip'ing. Fitted it and for some reason my car didn't like it. It was fine initially during warming up, but once warm it would idle at 1.5k rpm, sometimes higher.. :confused:
Considering what the pocvip is, its a simple mod and I can't fault Pauls work - just for some reason my car didn't work well with it. Whether its a duff icv unit or something different about my setup compared to Pauls conversions I don't know. Checked and refiitted a few times to make sure there were no air leaks etc. Even reset the ecu and everything...
...so stuck the original one back on. Its odd, as quite often once warmed up, it will sit at something like 500 rpm at idle (and sounds like its getting into the area of "struggling" revs) but when sat at lights etc for a short while, it often climbs up to 900 or so and sits there nicely. Guess its adjusting itself. It doesn't always do that though - which is odd....?
I must admit it does seem to go a lot better when its done that "climb up to 900" thing, so perhaps its in some sort of open loop mode then or something?
Would love to hook up one of those project modded 3vz ecu's and see what output/logs it gives on my car... ;)
Would love to hook up one of those project modded 3vz ecu's and see what output/logs it gives on my car... ;)
You're not the only one!
Unfortunately, it looks like Jeremy has gone walk about - or is persuing other more financially rewarding ventures...
The alternatives are for someone else to start their own ECU dissection - which is massively out of my abilities - or to go to a standalone setup.
I'm currently trying to set up a bulk deal and get the prices down on some ECU's which would solve the problems and allow you to fit them at home... hopefully will give a power increase and some better consumption!
Watch this space people.
loadswine
17-10-2007, 15:54
Go for it Johnny, that would be very cool indeed! :thumbsup:
I'm currently trying to set up a bulk deal and get the prices down on some ECU's which would solve the problems and allow you to fit them at home... hopefully will give a power increase and some better consumption!
Watch this space people.
WWWWwwwwwww - is that going to be an aftermarket affair, or a copy of a manual 3vz-fe ecu with some tweaks for power/fuelling?
Thats the only major niggle I have at the mo - the stalling when warming up. Very noticable for me as my trip to work is quite short with quite a few junctions, so when I take the mr2 it does tend to stall a few times on the way there.
Tony even fitted a switch in the boot, which switches the sp1 line from either the normal spd/speedo signal, or the 5v fix. I still get the stalling when in "spd" mode, but also get the noticable jerk at the normal auto change points which the 5v mod gets around.
Spent a fair while trying to track down a manual ecu, even thought I had one - but when it turned up it was actually for the 2.5L engine, even though the seller said otherwise. Knew for sure as it only had 3 plugs instead of 4.
Anyhow - was thinking of doing the afm mod at some point but was intending to get the other niggles sorted out first before "fiddling" for extra performance. However, if it looks like said mod may actually help with the stalling problem I'll have to consider it sooner.... :thumbsup:
...actually Tom, just re-reading the post - when you say afm mod, do you mean adjusting the cog inside, or moving the whole unit as close as possible to the throttle housing?
Right another day of testing !
Fizzy i mean moving the cog inside to lean the fuel off.
Right this morning was even colder than normal so would normally run really rich and stall all the time not to mention the speed difference against when it's at half temp.
Started fine and much better ! Did not stall half as much still stalled once after that was fine but normally does it every set of lights so happy there.
Now this afternoon i gave it some propper testing engine fully warm etc and it does make a difference! would say it has taken a little of bottom end power and mid range, theres not much difference all round untill at full throttle then it seems to come to life defo a bit better on top end and high rev gear changes.
Seems a little better on fuel too when driving it hard :)
So hope that helps some of you out it did make the stalling problem better but it was still there but this morning was extra cold around here.
I have just got all the stuff to move the afm close to the tb so if i get time the time at work tomorrow i will give that a go for you all.
Tom.
Oh and Garbe i stuck the top of the afm back on with black tigerseal so no water gets in :thumbsup:
And it's no problem doing stuff like this for people on here after all you all helped me with my conversion :)
Have done the afm mod on mine and got the Woods POCVIP treatment and its generally fine. Very occasionally in the first 5 mins of driving the car it sometimes cuts out, but then I don't have a coldstart injector either so that may have something to do with it.
I've just noticed with the weather getting colder that the engine doesn't want to rev much past 2,500 - 3,000 when it's cold. I think its to do with the cold engine/gearbox protection but once its warmed up its fine.
I've just noticed with the weather getting colder that the engine doesn't want to rev much past 2,500 - 3,000 when it's cold. I think its to do with the cold engine/gearbox protection but once its warmed up its fine.
Thats interesting (sorry for dragging up an old thread) as i've owned a lot of automatic cars which have similar traits - they wont let an upshift in gear till the engines warm. Could this be down to the ECU?
Paul
I reckon its down to protecting the auto box. I just let it warm up a bit, it doesn't take long for the engine temp to come up.
hmm could be... makes sense (which is unusual for you Garbeage! :P )
That does indeed make sense. I think a little bit of serviceing is called for on mine. Don't know if its down to the cold weather, but a couple of times now I've been on a longish trip on the motorway, and when I start getting back onto normal roads its done the stall thing pulling up to roundabouts.
Considering I was cruising at 80mph or so, engine should have been nice and toasty. :mrgreen: Unless theres some sort of gearbox oil temp sensor on the autobox the ecu expects?
Still looking forward to the various ecu solutions in the pipeline though. :)
Tom, where do you route the pipe that goes to the rear rocker cover/head, when you put the other pipe right up at the AFM?
As in, drill the one on the top, insert the bung, but where does the other one go to?
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